Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1995 - CEL Came On - P0340 Code - CPS Bad
Aug 10, 2012
I am having an engine issue with my 1995 Ranger with a 2.3L. I have been having a P0340 code that kept appearing after several attempts at resetting the PCM. I gave up and took it to a Ford dealer for diagnostics and they called the CPS bad. They changed it, but the CEL light immediately came on with the code still kept coming up. The service rep. showed me the old sensor, it had a spot on the head of it where it looked like something was rubbing it. I'm assuming it's slightly rubbing on the gear it points to, which is the oil pump gear, correct? The truck runs fine, no performance issues whatsoever. Is it possible my oil pump shaft has developed play in it's shaft, causing this?
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I have a 1995 ford ranger 2.3 L dual coil packs new plugs, wires, coil packs, tps, idle air sensor, internal temp sensor, and a replaced mass air flow sensor from wrecker. That all said my one son missed a plug when i replaced it , it had no tip left on it , but since then i now have a misfire in cylinder 2 where the olther plug was found and replaced ...
Gap for plugs are .44
Used the wrecker maf to see if it would clear a p0113 which it did. I am stumped on why at approx. 30 minutes of driving that the cel will flash then set a p0302, no other codes no fuel smell. rechecked plugs all are clean haven't been able to check fuel pressure yet, and i out a can of seafoam in the tank to see if it clear out injectors.
Besides all, I will check injector to see if I hear anything but I'm stumped. Also we have to have an emission test so is it best to fail the test and will it show me what I'm missing.
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1995 Ford 4.0 ... All the following have been replaced on the truck.
High Pressure Fuel Pump and assembly
Idle Air Control Valve
Spark Plugs
Oxygen sensor (Bank 1 sensor 1 Oxygen)
Fuel Filter
The most recent item that I replaced is:
Coil Pack
Spark Plug Wires
Now, with the Coil Pack replacement, the truck drives good, as long as I do not floor it (After it heats up, about 15 minutes). Basically, if I try to pass someone, the truck acts as if it is chocking out, like it is not getting any fuel.
Before replacing the Coil Pack. It would chock out at any given time, rather just barely pressing the gas peddle, or just sitting idle.
I took it to a friends muffler shop, and he stated that it is not the exhaust that is causing the issue. I am at a loss. Is there anything else that I can check?
The truck seems to drive fine, as long as I do not get down on it, and try to take off fast after it heats up. When it is cold, I can take off like a bat out of hell, and it runs like no-ones business.
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I have a 95 Ranger that when warmed up completely will buck when I let off of the gas. It is a 5 speed and this problem really only happens in 3rd gear and also have noticed it doesn't happen in 4WD. When the engine is cold and I am driving and let off the gas, the truck coasts smooth as silk and as it warms up, there becomes a louder thump when the gas is let off.
It will not do it all the time and it really only happens in third gear at low RPM's coming to a stop. I can give it gas and it picks right back up normally, so I doubt it is a misfire. Also since the truck is a 95 I do not have any CEL indicators, nor is there even a CEL light built into the dash in the truck. It isn't a huge issue because I am used to it and can drive it accordingly without having a problem.
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I have a 95 Ranger with the 2.3L and it is a five speed. I am having a starting issue. I have replaced the ignition switch, clutch position switch, starter relay and had the starter tested. The truck will not start with the key. I can jump across the relay and it starts fine but will not even click with the key.
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Had the top half of the intake off (2.3L) and fixed some vacuum leaks and replaced a power steering pump. Started truck and it ran funny like missing on one cylinder then cleared up then started making a loud knocking noise and running rough. Assumed that it swallowed something when I had the intake off and it got into a valve or into the cylinder. I pulled the plugs and there are no obvious signs of a problem. I also did a compression test and all 4 were around 150psi.
Put the plugs back in and started it and the same noise was there. Removed the serpent belt just in case it was power steering pump related and the noise was still there when I started the truck. Sounds like something is inside the engine still. Going to get a friends bore scope to check further. I guess I will split the manifold again and run the scope in there. Pending that I may also look down the plug holes with the scope. This is a major bummer. Not what I needed.
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I have a 95 Ranger 2.3 with a manual tranny. In the past I have had problems with this truck not starting do to a bad inertia switch and numerous fuel pumps. A couple of weeks ago I pulled the truck off of the driveway into the street and let it set there for a few hours. When I went to put it back on the driveway it would not start. I got it pushed on the side of the garage. I did my normal routine of doing a pressure check. I had no fuel pressure so I assumed that it was the fuel pump (as usual) so I dropped the tank and changed the pump.
I got it back together and it still wouldn't start. I checked the fuel pressure and the manifold still had 0. So I started my diagnostic. I have power from the fuse to the fuel pump relay. I then checked the wiring at the inertia switch and found that there is no voltage with the key on at the supply side of the inertia wiring. I verified continuity between power distribution block and the inertia switch. I put in a new fuel pump relay and it still has no fuel rail pressure and there still is no electric signal at the inertia switch. Where to go from here?
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I have a 1995 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder and the other day on my way home all of a sudden sounded like a lawnmower, it was very sluggish and would take twice as long to get moving,it also smelled like gas and I used a quarter of a tank in about 24 miles. Someone said it could be the ignition coils...
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I have a 95 4.0 EFI inside of my 83 Ranger. Once the motor warms up, it starts to have an idle issue. I have to press the gas, in order for it not to cut off. Here is a video I posted a while back. A person suggested that it could be the MAF needed to be cleaned. I did that, and it did not work.
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My Father in Law's 95 Ranger, 4 Cylinder, 5 Speed has started acting strange. It has, in the past 3 weeks just died suddenly, and won't restart. No action at all when you turn the key, as if the battery is disconnected. Wait for 45 minutes to an hour, and it starts back up again.
He has had it to a local shop twice, and the only thing they have done is let it idle for 5 hours at the shop. Of course, it never stopped.
Now they are saying it is the clutch, and depending on the type of clutch, (big or small).
I've been working on cars most of my life, and even had an 87 Ranger, and I've gotta call BS on this. He says it happens mostly when coming to a stop.
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I have a 1995 ranger with a 4.0 it cranks just fine wont fire has alot of fuel spark it will crank and crack then it stop and acts like it is going to fire up and stops cranking. This thing has 253k on it.....
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. I'm going to FINALLY change the tranny fluid in my 95 Ranger Splash this weekend and need all the feedback I can get! It's a manual trans with miles shy of the 250,000 mark...still on the original stuff!! I'm only the 2nd owner but I bought the truck with just 45,000 miles on her so I'm willing to bet the farm that it's never been changed. It's getting harder to shift from 1st to 2nd and I'm getting a little bit of grinding from 3rd to 4th if I shift too fast. Reading all the threads everywhere online, so many different people have so many different theories from stock Mercon V to MOTOR OIL??? The motor oil thing floored me but I understand the viscosity difference between hydraulic fluid and lubricating oil. figure out what the best thing to replace the original with to prolong the life of this long running wonder vehicle!
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What are the steps to fix a broken odometer on a 1995 Ranger? I assume it is probably the gears. The truck has 169 k.
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I have a 1995 ranger with a 4.0 it cranks just fine wont fire has alot of fuel spark it will crank and crack then it stop and acts like it is going to fire up and stops cranking... This thing has 253k on it...
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For the last 2 years 1995 ranger 2.3 will run great but every 1-3 months will just stall. Will than try to start it for a couple of minutes and in 1-8 minutes will start back up again as if nothing was wrong and then be fine for another week, month, 2 months etc. It has never happened at first start up in the morning but at times will stall 2 minutes after start (at traffic light of course). At times will turn off to run into store, come outside, no start, try for couple of minutes and then starts up fine. Changed out fuel pump, etc, etc. Biggest problem is no codes and, of course, when mechanic looks at it nothing is wrong.
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I have a 1995 ford v6 4.0L with a 4R55E transmission, and 3.27 Non-LS axle. So Im guess the 2H (high range) is the 3.27 Gear ratio. But in 4L (low range) whats the ratio?
And pew lol this rangers 4wheel drive is a beast went through a crap load of mud yesterday which also brought me up to the question should i be using 4L or 4H for that?
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My 1995 ford ranger with a 3.0 will not start. It acted like the fuel pump was going out so I replaced it. I also replaced cmp sensor and the camshaft synchronizer due to old cmp sensor broke and messed up the synchronizer. My truck is getting fuel and spark but still will not start. Where do i go next?
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My 95 Ranger has been a good truck in the 6 years I've owned it. I had to pull the heads to replace a leaking head gasket and wound up having the heads rebuilt due to weak valve springs and worn valves. I replaced the gaskets, installed the heads, get it all back together.....won't start. Fuel pressure is good. Found that there is no spark. While putting the crankshaft position sensor connector back on I noticed it didn't look too good. I replaced the connector and that's all I did and no spark. Long story short, after a lot of research, the coil pack, cps and coolant temp sensor were replaced and still no spark.
Everything has the proper voltage to it. After a little more research I found a post with the same basic issue. His issue wound up being the ecm. So I removed the ecm....it's a used one from a salvage yard. I've owned the truck 6 years so I have no idea when the ecm was replaced. It showed up today and will get installed when I get home from work. I also ran across posts about the camshaft sunchronizer and they should be replaced at about 80K miles. Since the truck has 289K I'll replace it. Still no spark. I'm hoping it's the ecm.
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I have a 1995 ford ranger v6 4.0 and for this week Ive been having a problem, stalling... It only happens when I do quick "stop and go" driving. Even sometimes at stop lights it wants to stall, the only way to keep it going is to keep my foot on the gas.
Now for a while when its cold or my truck has been sitting for a day or two the truck doesn't start on the first click.
I've had the fuel pressure checked, changed fuel pump, and starter. I have no check engine light on at the moment. Tomorrow I am gonna check with my scan tool just to make sure. But, it could be fuel pressure regulator, idle air control actuator, egr valve? How I should go along doing this?
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I have a 95 Ford Ranger 2.3L with a five speed. I recently had a starting issue were I parked the truck, went into a store came back out and the truck wouldn't start. Figured it was the solenoid as I couldn't jump across it to get the truck to start. Replaced the solenoid. Still no go. Found a fuse in the starting circuit blown. Replaced the fuse and got it started and drove home. Next morning, I go to leave for work and the truck would not start. Got a ride to work came home and checked it over and found the starter locked up. I replaced the starter. Truck started for a few days and now I am having problems again.
Here is the problem I am having now. Starter is good. Proved that as I can start the truck by jumping across the starter relay. Checked the solenoid with a voltmeter and it is doing what it is supposed to do when the truck starts normal. Here is where I am scratching my head. I can start the truck sometimes and it starts just fine. Next time I try to start it, the fuse will blow.
Replace the fuse and it might work for a couple of starts and then the fuse will blow again. I jumped pass the fuse with a piece of wire for diagnostic purposes. Out of 20 starts, it only started normally 4 or 5 times. I have checked every wire I can see under the dash and have not found any obvious issues. I am at a point where I am so frustrated that I just want to push this 400k mile truck into the back forty and put it out of its misery like a lame horse.
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1995 ford ranger with 4.0. It idles rough. Replaced MAF TPS fuel pump fuel filter fuel pressure regulator upper o2 sensor. IAC.. still idles rough RPMs drop. It isn't as bad since replacing MAF but still not right. What else is there.. Cleaned out the air intake port it was gummed up. Don't know what else to do?
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