Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1998 2.5 - Fuel Pressure Down To 40 PSI?
Mar 21, 2015
Ok so my dad has been using my 98 while I was fixing his 92 4.0. I had the 92 perfect and then someone pulled in front of me and totaled it out. Well now I got my 98 back and it's all messed up. Check engine is on p0171. Fuel pressure test done and it's steady 40-42 psi. I remember last year I checked it was like 68-72 psi. It hasn't been a year or two since fuel pump and strainer were replaced. Filter probably 15,000 miles ago. It's currently running good sometimes it cuts off when you start it then next time it stays running. Is this another fuel pump failure? How much longer will it last on 40 psi? The fuel lines and tank have 336,000 miles, engine maybe 150,000 and injectors have about 20,000 miles on them.
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I've got 30 lbs of fuel pressure that drops to 28 if you rev it up a bit on a 1998 ranger 4.0 with a new fuel filter. Haynes manual say it should be 56-72 lbs. Bad news is fuel pressure regulator is in the tanks with the pump. Can the regulator be swapped out or is it one assembly with the fuel pump? Is there anything I should check first?
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Made a trip to the hardware store yesterday. When I came out, the truck would crank just fine, but wouldn't start (98 4.0L 4x4). Tried adding gas, no luck. I had actually called a wrecker, but it eventually started after sitting for about an hour. All I did differently was hit the gas pedal a couple of times. Thinking it may be a low fuel pressure problem, I took it to autozone this morning (started it about 4 times now with no problems). Checked the fuel pressure, and it sat at a solid 65 lbs at idle. I tried holding the throttle open and it stayed at the same pressure. I forgot to try with the vacuum off.
First off, I've seen some people say 60 lbs is right, but more say it should be at about 45lbs. 45 seems right since the fuel return is on the block, not on the pump. I'm guessing the fuel damper went out, but is there any good way to check it? Also, since the damper is vacuum controlled, would a bad vacuum cause this problem? Third, could high fuel pressure cause it to not start? That's the one I'm most worried about what was wrong there.
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I have a 1990 Ranger with a 4.0L that I just changer the intake gasket on. I broke the fuel line at the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Cant seem to find one anywhere. It is a nylon inside/rubber outside with a cloth mesh and quick connect fitting line. Where to get one? Can I hose clamp it the FPR by cutting off the connector that broke?
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I have a 95 Ranger 2.3 with a manual tranny. In the past I have had problems with this truck not starting do to a bad inertia switch and numerous fuel pumps. A couple of weeks ago I pulled the truck off of the driveway into the street and let it set there for a few hours. When I went to put it back on the driveway it would not start. I got it pushed on the side of the garage. I did my normal routine of doing a pressure check. I had no fuel pressure so I assumed that it was the fuel pump (as usual) so I dropped the tank and changed the pump.
I got it back together and it still wouldn't start. I checked the fuel pressure and the manifold still had 0. So I started my diagnostic. I have power from the fuse to the fuel pump relay. I then checked the wiring at the inertia switch and found that there is no voltage with the key on at the supply side of the inertia wiring. I verified continuity between power distribution block and the inertia switch. I put in a new fuel pump relay and it still has no fuel rail pressure and there still is no electric signal at the inertia switch. Where to go from here?
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2001 Ranger, 108,000 miles, good regular maintenance per the Ford Schedule. 4.0L manual trans.
I changed the fuel filter 20,000 miles ago. This has been a recurring issue anytime my fuel level was low, about 1/4 tank or less, and when the truck was warmed up, hot. The fix in the past was to add fuel and let the truck sit for awhile. Now, today I drove home for lunch and when I tried to start the truck to return to work, it wouldn't start.
Same conditions, low fuel level and it was warmed up. The engine will turn over and start to run with ether in the air box, so it's definitely fuel related. A fuel pressure gauge on the Schrader valve got a zero reading, not even a flicker, and no residual pressure after shut off.
Could this be only a fuel pressure regulator issue? Or should I prepare to replace the fuel pump? Is there a fuse that might be blown?
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I am losing residual fuel pressure on my 1996 ranger 2wd, 3.0, V6. Acts fuel starved after sitting for awhile, cranks ok turn key off starts up, sometimes i have to do this twice.
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I have a 2009 Ranger 2.3 L manual with about 100000 miles. The engine was bogging down and I just found out that the MAF sensor is bad from testing it. In the process, I measured my fuel pressure to be 73 psi (manual says 60-65 psi). So I have two questions:
a.) Is there any chance of just cleaning the MAF sensor. The sensor has zero volts when running and warm (or .02 v) and barely changes when reving the throttle.
b.) Perhaps then the high fuel pressure is an unrelated issue. Is this so high that I must change the regulator as I have to change the pump as well? Might it be some other issue than the regulator which is what the Hayness manual says?
One theory I had for the high fuel pressure is that the bad MAF was leading to bogging and lean conditions and the computer was running the pump more to compensate but I think the computer might run the pump based on fuel pressure not the o2 sensor.
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Sons 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 Auto 185k got him to work yesterday but would not start to bring him home. No spark, checked with timing light, and no fuel pressure. Searched and read alot of tips from Pawpaw so I tried a few things with no luck. Swapped the relays around, inspected coil pack and plugs. CEL was not on and goes out while cranking. I have a OBD scan tool but this truck must be too old or I need finding plug. Crank sensor maybe?
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I have a 2000 Ranger with the 3.0. Was wondering where the fuel pressure regulator is located on it. I like pictures.
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I have a 2000 Ranger with the 3.0 in it. Trying to find where the fuel injection pressure damper is located. I was told it's on the fuel rail. Just making sure I'm looking at the right thing.
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My 94 B4000 (4.0L ohv)is acting weird. If I let it sit for more than a day, it won't start. I pop the intake tube off, squirt some gas in the plenum, and away she goes. It starts all day long after that. I can hear the fuel pump running. Is there a possibility there is a fuel pressure regulator leaking down, kinda like a pump losing it's prime? Or am I looking at dropping the tank for a new fuel pump??? It's getting close to winter up here (gonna snow anytime) and I don't need this kind of trouble when it's cold and snowy.
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I have a 2002 Ranger with a 3.0/auto with about 180K on it. It runs good but for the past 6 months I have had a problem starting it. It does the same thing hot or cold but is a LITTLE easier when cold. It is very hard to start, you have to grind the started for about 30 seconds then it starts right up.
I checked to see if I could hear the fuel pump when the power is turned on and yes I can. But after checking the fuel pressure, there is no fuel pressure with the power on and the engine not running. Once the engine starts, there is about 65-68 pounds of fuel pressure - and the truck runs just fine. Starting is the only problem.
I was told I had to replace the fuel pump. Is the electric pump in the tank the ONLY fuel pump on the truck, or does it have a combination of the electric/tank pump and a mechanical pump on the engine?
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My friend has a 98 ranger that has a lose connection on fuel relay under the hood, Hit a bad bump truck dies, Pop hood wiggle wire and your good till next bump. This got real old real quick. How this connection is made, Is it soldered?
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My sons 1998 ranger is in mph. Converting on to a kmh dash. There's one at the wreckers and I was wondering is it a direct replacement or is it a computer swap also? What years would work?
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New owner of a used 2002 Ranger XLT 4x4 (with 59k miles) here (and new to this forum). Having problems with the oil pressure gauge not registering on cold starts (though it registers after the engine warms up).
I know this is nothing more than an idiot light since the gauge isn't really a gauge (inasmuch as it registers in the normal range at 7 psi and stays there unless the pressure goes away).
I've read that this is likely due to the oil pressure switch not functioning properly. I'd like to know where this switch is located on a 4.0 L V6. Other than this, the engine functions normally (though it sucks the gas).
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I have a 1998 ford ranger and it will not disengage out of 3 gear. The truck still starts but if you let of the cutch. Of course, It stalls. I'm doing the work myself but where I should start looking.
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I have a 98 4x4 with 145k miles and 4.0 OHV. Symptoms are as follows;
Uses ALOT of oil. 1 quart per 230 miles. Burning bad in rear cylinders, some in middle cylinders, none in front cylinders. Screams intake or PCV issues to me, not rings or valves. Never any smoke, not even on startup. No significant leaks. MPG always 18-20mpg.
Slightly rough idle.
Miss under load below 2k rpm. Not a terrible miss, but you can feel it. Has never lit the CEL. I know the CEL is good.
Never loses coolant. No coolant in oil or vice versa. Haven't done compression test, but doesn't seem like they ever tell you much anyway.
This weekend I replaced all intake gaskets, plug wires, cleaned oil residue off and regapped plugs (they are 3 months old), injector orings, and PCV valve. Flushed and burped radiator.
It's too soon to tell on the oil consumption, but I thought the intake gaskets would have cured the rough idle and misfire. The idle IS much better, but still not perfect. But the low rpm load miss is actually worse now. Still no CEL. Could it be storing codes without lighting the CEL? Also, how do you clear codes on these, can you just disconnect battery, or do you have to clear them with a scanner?
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I have been having with my ford ranger. I bought this off my nephew bcuz he needed some money and never drove it due to it being a 5speed and he has a kid and a wife and no room. OK the issue I am having is in gear or neutral I can't get the 2.5 motor over 3000rpms in any gear at all. If you rev the engine up or r driving it when it hits between 2900-3000 rpms the motor acts as if it is going to die and looses all power until you let off the gas. I have replaced the following items on the truck. Oh by the way I have a Cam 2 hand held and there are no codes or warning lights. All new parts :
1) new fuel pump
2) fuel filter
3)new timing belt
4)new motor craft platinum plugs
5) new motor craft plug wires
6)new Mass air flow meter
7) clutch,pressure plate & throw out bearing along with new slave(that needed it replaced others since I was there)
8) exhaust tube behind motor(rotted out)
9) new idle control sensor (acts as elect. Choke)
Truck starts up real quick and idles fine, but when truck is cold the rpms @ 2500 does the same as when it is warm @ 3000 rpms. I even took it to the local ford dealer in my town. Youngstown oh @ Fred martin ford. They told me the wires should be replaced and plugs along with mass air flow valve. I called them after replacing it and told them no difference and the service manager told me to bring it in again and they will look again. Service manager told me he has never heard of this type of problem and I went to a local garage mentioned it to the lead mechanic. He said that is why he doesn't like fords they are to common in chronic problems and can't be fix without a lot of guess work. I have a Hanes manual and did everything it recommends to no avail.
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I got this 98 Ranger 2.5 that I've done a tune-up on less than 30,000 miles ago. I changed plugs, wires, and both coil packs. Timing belt, thermostat, fuel pump, fuel injectors are all recently changed too within a year or two. Fuel filter and air filter I change every 30,000 miles. The truck runs as great as a 4 Cylinder will run. It's at 344,000 miles but the engine was changed once so it probably has over 100,000 miles on it. There is just a slight miss you can hear through the tailpipe but it's not severe enough to be picked up by the Check Engine Light. In fact, even when the coils were totally gone it never put up the Check Engine Light. I can tell when a coil pack is going out on this because it's done it several times so I usually just change them with the tune-up. It's only a slight miss some people may not even notice it. I was just wondering is there any way to track down where the miss is? I tried looking under the hood in the pitch black and there's no plug arcing.
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so heres whats happening. My 98 ranger speedometer has not been working since I owned it (I am the second owner who got it from a grandpa) and I've replaced the vss sensor two times, got a new connector and gave that a try and still nothing. Yes I've looked for cracks in the wire or any exposed copper, I've looked through many forums and cant figure it out. At first before replacing the vss, my abs and check engine light weren't lit up until i put a new vss sensor on that i got from o'reillys, so then i got another one thinking it was just a bad sensor and still no luck. another thing is when its cold in the morning and i get in my pickup to go to work it will start working once i go over 30 and fluctuate between that and 20 but if i don't accelerate it will not bounce all over the place.
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