Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1999 - Slight Vibration Or Buzz When Upshift
Jan 18, 2013
Have a 99, ext cab, 3.0 , 5 spd man. 125,000 on it. I know the clutch will need replaced shortly but so far it is still functioning with out the slipping. Although I can feel a slight vibration, or buzz when I up shift. My immediate concern is the clattering/rattling. say at idle, not moving with the clutch pushed in when I shift into 2nd and 4th gear it really rattles loud. I can only assume it is some bearing inside the transmission, but need to have a bit more surety as to the problem. I know, I need to do the clutch however i don't know if the transmission is going bad or is that noise in the clutch area.
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1996' Ranger with 183,000 miles. 2.3 cyl., Automatic, XLT
When I am driving and get to the 35 to 60 mph range, my trucks transmission wants to upshift, then immediately downshift to the gear it just left. It goes back and forth like this till I get where I am going, or after about 10 miles it will stop doing it. I checked the transmission fluid, and it is full and still pink.
I took it to Advanced Auto, and it blew a code of ECL Bank 1 I believe. I looked around the 'net and I think it came out to be the front O2 sensor may be bad/going bad.
Last week while it was warm enough I was driving with the rear window open, and noticed the faint smell of Rotten Eggs (this has been the only time though). Today I drove about 50 miles and basically used a quarter of a tank of gas. I am wondering if the catalytic convertor may also be going bad?
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I have posted on here before about this very issue, thinking it was primarily the transmission. In additon to a hard upshift/downshift (it almost feels like getting a little "kick" from behind while in the truck) I was getting a flashing O/d light, etc.
Since then the tranny died. No shifting at all. I was able to find a usable replacement from another truck (the guy sideswipped a pole, and decided he was done with it, as he tweaked the front frame slightly), which was working fine (before the accident).
I swapped the units out (trans and T/C), and the truck has life again! No flashing O/D light, nice power, and good gas mileage (I went from pre-failure 15mpg to 20mpg now).
However, the kick has never gone away.
So, what next? How much "play" should there be in the driveshaft when the vehicle is parked? I can move it a little bit. Should I consider servicing/replacing the U-joints? Or should I now suspect the rear diff to be the culprit, and how can I best determine this?
Also, can you switch out one rear end for another? If you can, is there any any paricular one that is better to use for towing/hauling as opposed to, let's say, off-roading or city driving?
As for the vehicle in question, it's a 1995 Ranger XLT extended cab with a 3.0V6 and auto trans. I believe it's supposed to have a limited-slip diff, but how do I determine this?
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2014 Camry, 4 cyl. 65K ... Wife's car has developed a vibration that is going to be hard to get a dealership service group to troubleshoot due to randomness. I drove it for 30-45 mins today and have this description:
-Vibration, either described as a 'buzz' or a 'high frequency vibration'
-Happens in the 28-38mph range (different points)
-Under very slight acceleration. (hard acceleration efforts produce nothing)
-Can't swear to it, but feel like it is always in 'high' gear
-feel it in 'seat of pants', NOT through the steering wheel
-Is faint on sound, but you can hear something
-Is typically only a second or two
-Is very hard to 'create', but then happens unexpectedly.
-My wife first reported it to me, and I took my son on the test drive today and he could feel it as well when it hit, but couldn't pinpoint it as it comes and goes so quickly, but again, you feel it in the seat/butt more than anywhere else.
I've checked lug nuts to try to eliminate something easy and they are fine.
Since it is relatively slow speeds and under very slight acceleration, can there be a 'solenoid' that is creating a false shift effort, but just vibrates the trans instead? Without any info other than what I have stated above, I'm leaning toward transmission, but again, probably not enough info to go on....
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1999 Ranger xlt, 4 cyl. 2wd reg cab, automatic. Getting a rumbling noise with some vibration in the floor ( nothing in the steering wheel, does not seem to affect handling ) runs consistently and relative to speed of vehicle......can not isolate or determine origin of noise.........
When initially driving car after sitting for awhile, the noise does not kick in until 50 to 100 yards have been traveled but is consistent thereafter,.....except for.. completely disappears during taking of left handed curves at good speed but reappears when road straightens...... right-hand turns have no affect positive or negative.
Have thrown into neutral at speed and sound and vibration is unaffected,.... brand new tires ( needed them ) with balancing had no affect either Struts, shocks, springs?
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I had a slight noise from the waterpump area for a while, was waiting for it to fail but instead it was the clutched fan bearings. How difficult is it to repair? And could there be a recall on this, the ranger has 51,00 miles and its all easy miles. 2004 ranger 2.3 clutched fan bearing failure ...
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I have a slight squeak noise that is only heard at idle some of the time. I replaced the belt, idler, and tensioner when I noticed just spinning the alternator gives the sound I'm hearing. Is it something I should be concerned about? It isn't noisy all the time, only sometimes. I don't want to fix what isn't broken, but I don't want it to leave me stranded one day either.
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vibrates on slowing down - no brakes just let off gas - until speed drops down to fairly low. an auto trans. seems to be front end source, the driveshaft and u-joints appear good. I jacked up front and checked tie rods and wheel bearing shake - nothing there?
I haven't found a long enough downhill grade to try it in nuetral selector position at over around 25 mph yet. Could shock absorber do this? They appear good. tires have some miles on them but wheels have the weights on them?
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I just totally re-built the rear brakes in my 93 Ranger 2wd. Now its seems I have this 'intermittent vibration' between 90 to 105 km/h.
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We have a 2000 ranger 2wd with a 5 speed transmission, we just had new tires put on last Sunday and on the way home it had a vibration in 5th gear at 55 mph whats so strange about it is, in 4th gear at 55 mph. it don't do it but when you shift it to 5th and hold it at 55 it starts.
I have checked the drive shaft and even put it on stands and shifted through the gears and held it at 55 no vibration, I guess because there is no load on the drive train. the truck only has 56,000 miles on it.
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he has a 2009 ford Ranger, 2.3L .with 54thou miles, the Issue is Vibration during in gear and stopped at a light no vibration at higher rpms during driveing, he states vibration happens in park ,neutral,reverse and drive. had the truck in for repair in two separete dealers they couldent find the problem its an automatic trans. he states from day 1 this truck has had the prob now its out of warrentee.dealer told him that trans to engine alignment was the prob dealer did some alignment and worked for a few weeks.
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I'm having a bit of an issue with my 97 ranger 4.0 auto 2wd. I have an vibration which from a stop up about 10 mph feels like wheel hop not bad but you can definitely feel it it and over 50 mph the whole truck starts to shake again not bad but you know its there. the truck sat last summer it was my dd till a bought a new car and now vw is buying it back ill be driving the ranger in the mean time. I have been trying figure it out for a few months but no luck i have put new tires , front rotors and rear drums , drive shaft support bearing ( 2 pc shaft) new u-joints and a used boneyard shaft with new u-joints as well, checked the tail shaft bushing which had about .008" of play.
Pulled the drums Off today and checked the axle bearing for play only .004" of play pulled the diff cover and checked for carrier play as well as pinion play but can't find anything. I'm at a loss here and looking for other things to check ... Don't know if its possible that something in the transmission is loose it was rebuilt about 75k miles ago I was going to stop and talk to the trans shop to see what he thought (its a 5r55e ) ....
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In my 2006 Ranger XLT, 4.0L V6, 2WD Manual; I am getting vibration from what appears to be the passenger front. I have so far replaced the front wheel bearings (both sides), replaced front shocks and checked rear shocks, rotated tires (to see if it changed) and had front tires balanced. I've also had a friend follow me on the freeway and check the wheel to see if is bouncing, wheel appears to be glued to the road. I have done all the front suspension checks I can and find no indications it is the lower ball joints or tie-rod ends.
This vibration is very in consistant, in different lanes it is better/worse. At times I feel it more in the steering wheel, others my seat and at times the gear shift. I don't believe it to be the engine mount(s) cause when it is vibrating I can shift into netural and the vibration does not change, I have also performed the 5K rev (FORD maitn. manual) and the engine is smooth (along with my expierence with bad mounts in my '94).
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Bought a 02 Ranger, 4.0 4x4 super cab 122,000 miles. etc Picked it up for 500 bucks because someone scrapped it along the side of a guardrail this last winter. Replaced rack and Pinion (cracked), Tie rods, Shocks, driver side knuckle and wheel bearing, and some body issues (bed is still shot so if any black short bed sitting around let me know). I've been kind of putting around all day in it, letting it used to working again. Starts right up, turns easily, I string aligned it so it goes where I want.
But as I get up to speed start at about 10MPG there is a vibration based noise coming from the front, can't pin down if its left or right. If Im going straight then turn it gets slightly more intense as I even start turning the steering wheel. The noise increases with vehicle speed. And I don't know if its separate or related, but any turn over 5-10* to the left results in a grinding sound but then I turn to about 10-15 and it gets less intense. No noise turning right.
I'm thinking a bad CV, TWO bad CVs, or a bad differential. Before I start ripping into those things, thought I'd get opinions, or hopefully experience in this area. I'm really hoping its something small and stupid. (like not getting a professional alignment)
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I recently replaced the oil seal on the front differential where the front drive shaft connects to the diff. I believe it is called the pinion oil seal. I had to remove the drive shaft to do the job. Got the oil seal in place and then slipped the u-joint yoke on and hand threaded the retainer nut on to get it started. I did mark the relative position of the drive shaft to the front yoke and the rear yoke. I had previously noted that the retaining nut, before I took it off had about 2.5 threads showing. I had to remove it with an impact wrench.
So...I used the impact wrench to put it back on with about the same number of threads showing. I then reinstalled the little short fronmt drive shaft...the one that comes out of the transfer case. I got the front of it on to the pinion output on the front diff...and then had to reattach it to the transfer case end which, by the way an interesting affair with a sort of metal cone that is attached by 6 8mm fine threaded bolts about 2.5 or 3 inches long. Got all that done with much grunting an groaning - I'm laying on the ground - SO the oil, leak is fixed but now ...
There is a vibration at around 40 mph and higher. like something is out of balance. did i damage the front diff pinion bearing by using an impact wrench? this vibration occurs in 2 wheel drive. as i understand it the front drive shaft doesn't even turn when in 2 wheel drive. my question is does the front diff gears spin when in 2 wheel drive? perhaps the u-joint is bad on the front drive shaft? just a bit baffled. when the speed drops to below 40mph the vibration goes away...
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On my mk7 manual, I'm getting a slight growly noise when I shift upwards, mostly noticeable from 1 to 2, a bit less from 2 to 3, and almost none from there up. Nothing when I downshift.
It's almost like a DSG fart, but much subtler. Happens for like a split second, just when I release the clutch, as if it the engine is revving up right when the clutch is engaging. But I know it's not engine related, because my RPM remains steady. Can it be the clutch slipping a bit before it fully locks? Not even sure if that's even a thing.
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As said vibration at idle, as I slowly accelerate (in park) the vibration is worse at 1200 rpm, then keep slowly accelerating and at 1800 rpm completely goes away. Doesn't seem like a miss almost like a balance thing. Also when in gear and accelerating it doesn't seem to be there unless I just don't feel it when moving.
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I have a 98 ranger, 4x4, 5spd 3.0 with 88k miles.
While I am driving it, everything is great, but when i start to accelerate, or torque the engine (going up a hill), I get this clicking/vibration in my gas pedal. its extremely noticeable, by feeling and ear.
Its most common around 2k to 2.5k RPM. There is a lot of play in the throttle cable, about an 1" or so give untill you feel pressure. What I need to replace or tighten?
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I bought this Ex a little over a month ago and finally got around to replacing some stuff.
I have a slight vibration between 50 and 60 MPH. The vibration is the same weather I am accelerating, in Neutral, Coasting down (well, a little bit worse when coasting down), in 2WD, in 4WD, turning, going straight, hot or cold.
I have replaced the following:
Rear Driveshaft U-Joints
Tires and Rims
Upper and Lower Ball Joints
Wheel Bearings
Steering Stabilizer
Cleaned and Greased the Hubs
Greased everything greasable up front
I still have the exact same vibration as when I started. I can feel the vibration in the steering wheel as well as in the body of the vehicle. I am thinking that it may be in the steering linkage. If there is a loose joint then the wheels would be allowed to jiggle a little bit. I am at a loss. What else should I check?
Also, When doing the ball joints, I noticed that the tie rod ends were quite stiff. How stiff should these be? I can't move them by hand, but they will move a little bit when moving the free end of the tie rod.
I am taking it in for an alignment on Friday, and if I can't figure this vibration out, I might have them take a quick look into it. Would a stuck slide pin in the front brakes do this? Both sides on my truck are seized at the current moment.
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2004 Mk IV Jetta 2.0
I thought it was the trunk actuator, so I ordered a new one. I thought this because when I hit the button to open the trunk, I heard a slight buzz (not the sound of the actuator extending) but the arm didn't push out.
When I hooked up the new one to the wire to test it out the same thing happened. I also tested both actuators with a 9V battery and they worked correctly. So, it's not a problem with the actuator itself, and I don't think it's a problem with the wiring since there is at least enough power coming through to cause a buzzing noise...so I don't know what else it could be.
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New, 2 month old 2015 CC, gas 4x4 with standard bed. At 50-55 I have a rolling vibration, or it can even be explained as a slight growl. Seems worse since I upgraded to 285/75/18 Toyo AT's and new wheels. If i speed up to about 60, goes away. If I pop it down to 5th gear, it seems to go away, however, I need to try this a few more times to make certain.
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