2000 ranger auto 3.0 wife said that she had problems starting the truck
She had wiggle the shifter to get it to start. Have not looked at it yet but i am think the newtrl safety Switch.
I have a 2000 Ranger 4.0L manual transmission. I just replaced the starter/solenoid on it a few days ago. I went to start it, and I got 1 click and the whole system goes dead (ie: lights, instrument panel, everything!) I checked all the fuses and the starter relay in the fuse box. All good. I tested the battery, it's charged and good. I even tried jumping it. Same problem.
I can remove power from the system, re-apply power and same issue. I'm not even sure where to start here. I checked the ground terminal on the battery. It's connected to the frame and clean. Cables are tight to the battery and clean.
What am I missing?
My buddy bought this 2000 Ranger 4x4 with the 3.0 and 150,000 miles for 500 bucks. After he bought it, the number 2 spark plug boot caught on fire, and turned completely to ash. So we parked the damn thing, and have been training ever since, but it did run when we parked it. We replaced all plugs, wires suspecting a bad plug (and they were all fouled). Went to start it and now its on the verge of starting, but can't quite get there. So here's what we've done since.
-Replaced coil (had it tested, failed primary test on terminal 1, and secondary on 3 and 4)
No change
-Checked Spark by grounding spark plug
Good
-Checked Fuel at rail
Good- Held until empty, primed Fuel system (key on for 3 seconds 5 times) checked again, good)
-Truck had been sitting for three months, so put in small bottle of stabil and added 5 gallons with Lucas. Primed the system about 20 times, and tried to start. No effect.
-Checked battery.
1 bad cell, 3 low on water- replaced battery. Allowed it to crank for longer (before we were jumping it) but still didn't want to.
Note of concern : After we replaced the battery and went to start it, when the key was disengaged I noticed a hissing sound coming from the radiator cap. The truck is in Upstate new york and hasn't been ran in 3 months. I'm hoping its not but thinking it is a cracked jacket or a blown head gasket.
I have a 2000 Ranger 4.0L with intermittent no start. Have spark, fuel pressure is 55psi, temp sensors are reading correctly. When there is a no start condition I can pop the scharder valve, relieve the pressure on the fuel rail and it will start.
View 3 RepliesI have 2000 Ranger 4.0L 4wd, 5sp ...
Just in the last month or so as out temps have been dropping off I've been having troubles getting her started. It happens both when the engine is cold, ie first start of the day, and after starting when warm. It did it a couple times last spring, but then all summer and fall I didn't have any problems (warm outside air temps) but, now its happening again. I'd say any time the Outside air temp is 40F or less, I am worried it won't start. IF i get her to start, everything else is just fine and she runs like a top. Here are the symptoms and what I've done so far.
When I crank I will get a couple cylinders to fire for a second or two then it falters out behaving like fuel starvation. Then I crank again right away and nothing fires... just cranking over and over. If i wait a minute and crank again same symptoms or it will fire right up. Baffling!
I thought Idle Air Control valve and sticking fuel pump relay, so I threw new parts on, but no fix.
About 75% of the time if I turn the key on, hear the fuel pump running, turn key off and on, hear the pump again x3 and then attempt the start it is successful.
Unfortunately, I don't have a code reader, or fuel pressure test equipment. The check engine light is NOT ever on. DO I HAVE A FALTERING FUEL PUMP??? I've heard thats tough to change out.
I'm having problems with my 2000 ranger 4x4 off road edition it has 262,000 miles when it runs for about a half an hour shut it off try to start it in 20 minutes or so doesn't want to start sounds like it's backfiring to the throttle body replace the crank positioning sensor replace the ignition coil still doing it.
View 3 RepliesI have 95 ranger 3.0L revs up over 2000rpm at startup then comes down slowly to a little over 1000... Changed the IAC valve still does it... When I let it warm up I unplug the IAC and idles normal and smooth about 750 RPM so I don't think it's a vac leak... What else could it be???
View 5 RepliesMy 2000 Ranger standard 4.0 4x4, started spitting and sputtering the other morning just when i was gone up hills then it would quit doing it. The other evening it got to where it don't idle, missing very bad, and wouldn't even pull itself up a slight grade, and the wife said there was flames and sparks coming out the exhaust. Now it wont even try to start, it just turns over. I put a different coil pack, wires, and plugs, and still nothing. I pulled the gas line off the frame fuel filter and its shooting gas out, and I got gas to the check port on top of the engine.
View 5 RepliesI just bought a 2000 Ranger. I bought it at company auction for cheap because it wouldn't start. The battery was dead when I got to it. I put a brand new battery in it since it has 155,000 miles. When you turn the key to the on position, the theft light starts blinking rapidly. It will continue to do so for about 45 seconds if you leave the key on; then it will go out. However, if you turn the key to start, all you hear is relays clicking. The engine doesn't crank at all. I jumped the starter relay and the engine turns over. I have the factory manuals for wiring diagrams and diagnostic procedures.
The theft system relies on trouble codes to point you in the right direction for testing. I borrowed an Actron code reader (like you get at Autozone) and it says there are no codes. I'm wondering, though, if it only reads the SAE standard codes from any vehicle and not the manufacturer specific codes like the theft system. I have gone through a few of the diagnostic procedures with a multimeter, but it's like looking for a needle in a haystack without the codes. So far everything I've checked has come back ok. Any common issues this might be related to? BTW, I've gotten bits and pieces of info about this truck from the guys who drove it. Apparently, it just wouldn't start one day and was parked for the next several months until I bought it.
This has happened 4 times now over 2 weeks. The engine will turn over but will not start till I press the gas pedal. I have to keep the engine running for a few seconds by hold the gas pedal steady.After it's running you can cut the engine off and it will start right back up.
View 9 RepliesMy daughter's boyfriend just bought a 2000 ranger with a 2.5. We just put a flexplate in it and it wouldn't start. Just turned over. Listened for the fuel pump and no noise. After a few minutes, it worked. He drove it home last night and said that it didn't want to work first try but worked with the second try. He drove it to church, 40 miles, and it sit for around two hours and wouldn't start, no matter how many tries.
We tried changing the relays around with no luck. We went and eat lunch and back to the truck with a rubber hammer. Then it starts on the second try without using the hammer. We got under it and cleaned the connections up and put some bulb grease on them. I couldn't get the one apart right on top of the pump itself, I was afraid of breaking it. It's been doing fine since we left the church before we cleaned the connections.
I have 1994 ranger 2.3 2wd will not start when key is turned to start position - when clutch is depressed there is a click from fender mounted solenoid but it never cranks motor or starter--I need wiring diagram to trace origin of wire on starter solenoid because it does not have 12volts on it--when I jumper 12v on it and have it in neutral it starts up and runs but no voltage and no start with key....
View 2 RepliesMy 1983 Ranger is in the shop. I'm being told that I need to replace the shifter assembly. I understand that this is a Mazda part, from a TK5 transmission. These parts are interchangable between bronco ii's of the same era.
View 1 Replies1985 ranger 2.3L TK5 tranny. Shifter was really loose and the tranny finally got stuck in reverse. I have opened up the bottom cover, but am not sure where to move the shift forks to get it back to neutral. I bought a new shifter, but I need to get the tranny back to neutral before I can install it.
View 2 RepliesI have an 89 Ranger, 5 speed, 2wd, M50D transmission. On the way home tonight I was upshifting from a stop and when I went to go from 4th to 5th the shifter wouldn't budge. Luckily I was on a back road so I pulled off the road and tried all sorts of things (rolling truck while stopped, etc) and the shifter just will not budge.
Now here is the thing. I had my fiancé with me and no tools so I really couldn't do any diagnosing. However, 6 months ago I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, slave cylinder, and pilot bearing. While I had the transmission out of the truck I changed the fluid, siliconed around the rubber plugs, and put a shift bushing kit in. The bushing kit is the bushings around the shift ball with new wave washers and new pins that insert into the ball.
It is obviously not related to the clutch as it engages/disengages properly. When this happened, there were no noises of any kind when I shifted from 3rd to 4th. It just will not come out of 4th. I am going to pull the shifter out tomorrow and have a look. Do you think one of the new pins that I drove in to hold the shift ball broke or fell out or something and if so would it cause this problem?
I've been having problems with my column shifter ever since I installed a Pioneer shift cable probably about 3 years now. I was told and also thought that the cable would loosen up after awhile but it never has. I had some put it on and I watched him do it. He seemed to have some trouble because it took him a long time under the dash. It shifts so stiff that over a period of about 2 years it finally broke the end of the shift tube one night. Luckily I was able to fix it the next day by getting a spare without missing any down time. It was still just as stiff with the other shift tube. It finally broke the plastic on my shifter tonight, not necessarily whatever is causing it but because it takes so much effort to shift into Park, Reverse or Drive.
I think the plastic may have cracked over time. Luckily I had another one at home along with another shift tube. I didn't replace the shift tube this time but I did remove the caps and smear some grease on the bushings to see if it would make it turn. I looked further down at the end cap that broke last time and sure enough one of the bolts was backed almost all the way out. I retightened it tonight too. That's what happened when the bottom broke last time. One of those bolts backed out and it cracked the housing. It works now but if you go all the way to 1st to get back to anywhere it really takes a tremendous amount of effort to get it to shift. Something is not right and I cannot pinpoint it. I know they offer brand new shift tubes but I'm not sure if that's the problem.
After taking apart my instrument panel to change the bulbs, I went to reconnect everything, but now the gear shift indicator isn't working. I can change gears fine, and everything else on the instrument panel works just fine.
The copper cable that connects to the shifter doesn't move when the shifter does. Is there a way to fix this problem, or do I need to find a replacement cable?
I have heard from a few people that it might be the computer that is messed up. Just replaced cap and rotor, spark plugs, wires, fuel filters. Pump turns on. Cranks and cranks but won't start. Took the intake cover off and tried starting it, all it did was back fire. Checked the firing order and everything is right. So im left with guessing at the computer and ignition??
View 5 RepliesI have a 02 ranger..3.0 standard trans 4x4.... Started running crappy, cleared up and when shut off, now wont start... Good spark and good gas pressure... Seems to want to try, but just doesn't go. No codes or pending codes.
View 8 RepliesI've got an 83 ranger that has proven to be a bit of a head-ache. For starters it's got a persistent oil leak. It's somewhere in the area of the distributor, intake manifold, block region on the backside of the engine, but I can't get back there to see it.
Secondly, the truck only seems to want to start when I give it gas. Even when I use starter fluid, it will only get to an idle if I hold it to the floor when I turn the key. What this might be?
My 1991 ranger with a 4.0 turns over but will not start. It acted like it ran out of gas put again seems to do ok then it did same thing it sat over night then would not start so I thought I would put some gas in the intake so it starts ran real rough but smoothed after a few minutes ran fine after that next morning same thing no start did same put gas in intake at first no start just turned over didn't even try let it sit for awhile then tried again it fires up ran rough but ran now I get nothing just turns over pulled codes 22and 122 replaced both had ignition mod checked its good new coil pack no change so at this point i hear fuel pump kick on fuel getting to fuel bar but seems a bit week on pressure going to get pressure gauge and see what it says but in the meantime I am loosing my mind...
View 9 Replies