I have a 2000 ford ranger 2.5 automatic. runs fine except when stopping at lights and intersections it stalls. I have changed the MAF, TPS and hasn't made a difference.Truck only has 64,000 miles. What to look at next. no codes...
View 14 RepliesI have a 1999 B4000 V6 4.0L with 78K miles on it. I recently had P0171 and P0174 error codes come up. I replaced the MAF sensor and have not had the codes return but now the truck will basically stalls out when sitting at a stop light. It does not do it all the time just randomly. It has never done it when engine is cool but only once up to temp. The idle is smooth at cold engine but begins to get rougher once warmed up (nothing too bad just noticeable). I cleaned the IAC with MAF cleaner but no joy. I reseated all plug cables at the coil but no change. RPM around 600-700 then fluctuates up a bit then truck will stall quickly( I usually cannot put other foot on gas in time to get it to increase RPM before it dies)....
View 5 RepliesI am having some issues with my 2000 Ford Ranger 2.5. It is throwing codes PO731 (Gear 1 incorrect ratio) P1751(shift solenoid a) PO 401 (EGR Valve & PO 1408 (EGR Valve Circuit Failure.
I recently replaced my valve body gasket because of harsh shifting from 1st to 2nd. The gasket was blown. After I replaced the gasket my truck ran better than it ever has before (like driving a new truck). Nice and smooth shifting! That lasted a couple days
Currently things have changed to the worse. My truck is shifting hard into 2nd. Has a huge loss of power during take off and seems bogged down. Also, my overdrive light will come on after driving for a couple of miles. So, I took my truck to the transmission shop to get the codes pulled. Which are all the codes listed above.
I figured I would attack the EGR issues as one and the transmission as another. I will also add that my EGR issues didn't just happen with the throttle body gasket change. This is something that has been going on way before. I have been at this for days now. I found tons of info on cleaning my EGR Valves and trouble shooting this system...so my main concern is the PO731 & P1751 Codes and how to deal with them.
I am looking for the part number for the ABS speed sensor mounted on the rear differential for my 2000 Ranger XL 4x4 3.0 flex fuel model. I am also looking for the name of the part so I can look it up on the ford parts site. while looking I have found these names ABS speed sensor
Powertrain Control Module Speed Control Sensor
I had my truck in the shop and they did a health check, they found these codes po500 - cluster fault and the abs module fault
I recently changed the front pads and rotors on my 2002 Ford Ranger 2wd and I'm having some troubles now. Occasionally when I'm pulling up to stop lights toward the end of my braking i can feel them cut out and the ABS kicks on. It's a very intermittent problem, and it only happens at low speeds. When I try to induce the fault it never happens, it only seems to after an extended period of braking going less than 10 mph. I'm very confused, and I was thinking about changing out my calipers unless know what might be happening.
View 1 Replies2000 Ranger XLT 4x4 3.0L Auto
So a couple months ago I had a transmission problem. It shifts high and hard all times and after the "od" light gets going (after it gets warm), the transmission slips (like riding clutch) when starting from a stop. If I went from drive to 1st gear with the selector and back, it cleared the slipping problem for a bit. I did an oil/filter change and about 50 miles later the truck is running fine, no issues. One day I hopped in it to go to work and it was like nothing ever happened. Fast forward 1,500 miles later. I start to notice the transmission is subtly shifting weird, like a small jerk when shifting. It gets worse over 50 miles and now I am back to the above problem. Is there a way this could be a sensor or solenoid problem? I never heard of a transmission correcting an issue then starting at it again so much later.
I don't like fixing or working on an issue unless I am at least 95% sure what the problem is. I also don't have $2k to plop down on a repair at the moment. Would it be worth it to take this to a dealership and see what trouble codes I am getting? I would try a transmission shop but it's not guaranteed they will have the test equipment to check a ford transmission. Also a friend said that AutoZone and other stores can't check transmission codes. So what's the best option here?
I have spent two days searching for a fix to a problem like mine on my truck and I haven't quite found it. Sooo, here it is. I have a 2000 Mazda B3000 4x4. I'm getting the dreaded six lights flashing. I can hear the clicking under the dash as it attempts to engage the 4WD. I have checked the Motor at the T/C and no power. What feeds voltage to the motor its self? and is there any other thing I can check B-4 having it scanned? oh and it is a manual tranny.
View 4 RepliesWhen it rains my "door ajar" light comes on and the overhead lights won't turn off. that's the common problem. i've read many threads where it says to spray liberally with WD40. i intend to do that but the plot thickens.
Usually, after a few dry days, the light goes off and everything returns to normal. Not so any more. the newest episode entails the light staying on for two weeks of good warm, dry weather. naturally i always take the bulbs out. Now, its somewhat sporadic but.... I'll try to explain since I'm still trying to wrap my mind around it.
1. light stays on, dome lights won't go off.
2. tried dome lights couple of times, still wouldn't go off
3. finally, inserted dome lights and they wouldn't come on (except when manually switched on) however the door ajar switch was still on.
4. EXCEPT when i opened the passenger door the domes came on but wouldn't go off so i took the bulbs out again.
5. that's where i am now.
Not positive but I'm thinking since the new wrinkle in established expectations that I'll probably end up replacing the driver's switch. Before I tear up the door panel i need some hints concerning removal. the door has power windows and locks (which i need new actuators but that's a different story). Is there anything I need to watch out for?
My Ranger has been acting funny lately. My check engine light is on. I stopped by an Autozone and the guy read the codes - I don't remember exactly what the code was but he said I just needed to use some fuel cleaner - he recommended Seafoam. Now, I assume he was just trying to sell me something. But I've tried that, Gumout and STP in the tank with no luck.
If I'm driving and come to a stop, my RPM dips down to about 600 or lower, my truck starts shaking and will eventually stall if I don't step on the gas. This only happens with a warm engine - If I start the car up and go a mile down the road, it won't happens. But if I go 10 miles down the road, it will. I assumed I had a bad throttle position sensor so I just ordered the part and replaced it but the same behavior exists.
It's been a while since I've replaced the fuel filter - it might just be that.
So my 99 2.5 rcsb has been stalling out under loads, particularly when the A/C is on. It's stalled when warm, cold, engaging Drive or Reverse, and it steering does it at least once a day. There's a missing elbow to a vacuum line at the driver side (looks RABS related). The truck had the CAT melt off and now it's laying in my bed with the O2 sensor, don't know if that relates.
This truck sees 100 miles a day through the mountains, 5-7 days a week. It only has 140,000 miles on it, I put 40,000 on it in the last year with no issues. The truck is very much showing age (needs almost everything), but I'd like to keep the basics going.
1994 FORD RANGER stalls while driving - differant speeds ...differant miles ...no rhyme or reason to it - cranks right back up ...can even pop clutch and cut it back on. Already replaced Ignition Start Module - Dpes sensor - temp sensor - and scan shows all codes are clear and truck passes. We are clueless to whats causing this. 4 cyl 2.1
View 12 Repliesso I have a 1987 2.9L Ranger that likes to stall out when its idling after reaching temperature. Ive replaced all sorts of sensors (IAC, Coolant Temp, and PCV) and so far no luck. I was trying to figure out what the relearn procedure was for the IAC or get an input on any other possible sources of error. I haven't changed TPS yet.
What the engine does is when it gets up to temp, the engine will start to loose speed, and will start to shutter. Then it'll kick back up run fine for a few seconds and drop again, it'll do this for a few minutes then completely just choke out.
2003. Ranger xlt with the 4.0.... So I just bought this truck and was informed that the vacuum might not be functioning correctly. And here's the symptoms. It idles a little rough, nothing major. When I put the truck into gear either drive or reverse, it stalls out almost every time unless I give it some gas and hold the brake. But after that I could drive it all day with out a problem, as long as I don't put it into park. And last it starts a little hard. But the damn thing runs great while driving it. It's still very snappy even having high miles.
View 4 RepliesMy 2003 ranger, 4.0l, 5 spd manual with 295K miles has no power on acceleration. Engine shutters/stalls. The following have been replaced in last 20k miles; fuel pump, plugs/wires, mass flow sensor and fuel filter. Last week left for work and could not go faster than 50 mph. Condition has gotten worse (barely goes past 40 mph).
Changed filter with no improvement.
Checked fuel pressure - constant at 65 psi.
Changed coil - no change.
The tank of gas I put in just before problem was from station with tanker dumping while I pumped. That tank is out of truck; filled from different station. Also put can of seafoam in tank. No change.
98 Mazda B4000 4.0 4x4
I bought this truck about two months ago and it has been great no problems starts right up and runs like a top. I was installing a 4 channel amp yesterday on and off and the dome light was on all day as the doors would periodically be opened or closed so it never did that cycle of 10 min or whatever when the lights turns off. This is what killed the battery.
I had my neighbor jump me and after a few minutes of charging it started right up and idled for about a minute long enough he left and parked, then it stalled. I started it about another 6 times before the battery died again. Every time it started fine then would idle between 1-10 sec then start to sputter and eventually die. Pressing the accelerator pedal only killed it faster.
I got a new battery today as the other charges so that I could fix it today without missing work again tomorrow. Unfortunately it does the same thing I was hoping that the voltage was just low or the polarity flipped or something on the other battery.
To sum it up the truck never gave previous symptoms just simply ran too low (battery never DIED the lights came on just clicked when starting) on power and now stalls when started which it does immediately no long cranking.
The twist; truck has an aftermarket alarm by Python. Problem is I don't know anything about the alarm or if it comes with an immobilizer. I am in the process of trying to figure this out but need to pull dash or something to find the "brain"? Never had an alarm like this I disconnected the clear square that adjusts the sensitivity hoping that was it but I don't know where or what I assume the brain of the alarm is.
I'm having a bit of trouble with my fathers '03 Ranger Edge 4.0L. It has about 100k miles on it, and we keep it very well maintained. This is the first major problem we've had with it.
When the problem first occured, it had been driven about 30 miles on the highway and about 5 miles after getting off the highway, he pulled up to an intersection and stopped. As he started accelerating again, it all of a sudden started sputtering, surging (almost exactly as if it were running out of gas), and then stalled. It continues to exhibit this behavior. It will start and idle fine, but struggle and then stall when given any amount of throttle. It's also an automatic transmission if that makes any difference.
Fast forward to this past week after we had it towed home. We have checked the fuel pressure, and its dead on at about 64psi. We changed the fuel filter, changed the PCV valve, changed the upstream O2 sensor, put in a new air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor, and cleaned the intake of the throttle body. We're now at a loss as to what could be causing the problem. The CEL is not on, and there are no codes being shown when we plugged it in. We also thought it may have been bad gas, so we drained the tank and put fresh gas in from our preferred station. The plugs and wires are also fairly new, only about 4k miles on them.
Are we missing anything here? What else we could try? The absolute last resort is taking it to a shop, we're going through a rough patch with finances.
I have had my '99 Ranger since 2002. Since it has started getting hot in Texas, the truck has decided to stall at horrible times. When driving on the interstate, there is no problem, but as soon as I get in town and have to let off the gas to turn or stop, the whole truck dies. Unless it sits for a long time, it will continue to die at every stop. It is harder to start each time. I have changed the fuel filter and added STP to the last tank of gas. Also, it is tough to start and keep running until it has warmed up on any day. I have to sit in the truck and keep the idle up so it won't die.
View 1 RepliesI have a 86 Ranger with the 2.3L fuel injected 4 cylinder and a 5 speed manual transmission. I can drive it for hours on the highway but if I get caught in stop and go traffic, it stalls and won't restart for about 10 minutes. When trying to restart it acts as if it is fuel starved. Spraying carb cleaner in the throttle body does make it run for a second or two. I was getting a code 18 & 67 before I changed the ignition module, now I just get code 67 or 11. I have done the following:
-Changed both fuel pumps, tank and frame rail pump (did one at a time, no improvement)
-Changed all fuel filters (in line filter, fuel reservoir filter and tank filter)
-Changed ignition module on distributer
-Changed both relays that control fuel pumps
-Cleaned battery terminals and body ground connections.
-New gas tank fill cap
I'm at a loss now as to what to do. I have been checking the codes with my multi-meter. I do not have a OBD1 diagnostic tool.
The truck started acting up while driving. It would shut off (no miss or anything), but would start again. Now it is sitting in the driveway and wont run more than 3 seconds. The fuel pump has been changed and did not work. The fuel pump relay is new and did not work. I read that the fuel pump goes to another circuit after start up. Could it be running to start and then shutting off? Inertia switch is not tripped. Where to look next. 1992 Ranger 6 cylinder ....
View 10 RepliesMy truck has been doing this since I got it and I can't figure it out. It's a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5 5Spd. It runs fine if you don't rev it above 2500-3000 rpm. After you rev it that high coming down to idle it is stumbling real bad and sometimes stalls. I've been driving it like this since I got it, and it does fine other than this. It gets better the longer you drive it, but it still will do it if you rev it high enough.
Here are all the parts I personally have changed (previous owner said he did the plugs and wires and air filter, which it looks like he did but I'm about ready to change them myself):
-Fuel filter
-coil packs
-timing belt
-egr valve
-cleaned throttle body
-iacv
-tps
-thermostat
My 2005 2.3l Ranger ran great. I moved a trailer about 150 feet and stalled the truck backing it up. Stick shift. Unhooked the trailer and pulled back into the parking area....all the sudden the truck has extremely rough idle and stalls. It runs good on the highway. AutoZone ran a OEM number to cross: P0171.
I cleaned the IAC with intake cleaner. No Luck
I unhooked battery for 15 min. No Luck
I sprayed intake with 1/2 can of intake cleaner. No Luck
I did not have a tamper torx to remove the MAF. What next.