So I have a 2001 ranger 2.3l . Runs very rough at idle.code says misfire in cyl.#1. I have changed plugs, wires, coil packs all motocraft. I did a compression test..
#1.170
#2 180
#3. 185
#4 . 180
Compression seems fine,but where do i go from here? Anything else i can check/replace to solve this?
I have a 2002 ford ranger xlt 3.0 i just rebuilt the entire motor about a month ago and was having a high idle problem for the longest time. turns out i had the iac on backwards. but now that it idles down around where its supposed to it has a rough idle has a little shake to it. starts up right away but when i drive down the road around 3000-3500 rpms its missing on cylinder #3 from what the code I am getting "multiple cylinder misfire, #3 cylinder misfire" I've replaced plugs and wires. camshaft pos sensor. I am getting 65 lbs of fuel pressure. spark on all cylinders. I am really at a dead end here. Also every time I take the plugs out to look at them they look brand new.
View 14 RepliesI bought this from my brother in better than mint condition. Always maintained. Its generating a cyl #2 misfire code.
It starts and runs like new when cold, but when it warms up, it idles rough, and generates the code. after 1500 rpm it smooths right out and runs fine.
He had it to the dealer just before I bought it and they told him needed a new engine.
I am thinking bad injector, since what seems to be happening is, when cold it gets more fuel, or when u rev it gets more fuel, but at an idle and warm, it doesn't seem to be getting enough maybe. And I see from the maintenance records, a couple of other injectors have been replaced as well.
I think the dealer got tired of replacing injectors under warranty and tried to milk him for a new engine.
2002 ranger extended cab 2wd, 3 door, 232,000 kms 5 speed 3 liter V6, new glass and clutch..
I have a 2003 Ranger edge 3.0 flex fuel 183,000 miles. I have been having a misfire problem, only at idle, always cylinder 3. Replaced the fuel filter. Just replaced fuel pump assembly. With the old pump my fuel pressure was 49psi key on engine off, and running at idle it was 59psi with a shaky needle. With the new pump, when I turn the key on it jumps to 60psi then imedietly drops to 49psi, when the pump shuts off. Running it is at 60psi with steady needle. Koeo the pressure holds good at 49psi but does slowy decrease, about 5psi in 15 minutes. What would be causing the pressure to drop to 49psi? I am checking pressure at the fuel rail. Pressure according to the haynes manual should be 60-65psi koeo and the same while running at idle.
View 14 Replies2001 Ford Ranger 4.0L V6... Okay so I bought my truck last September with 100K on it. Ran perfectly fine. No problems for for the first two months and then it started to misfire when at idle. Check Engine Light came on. Scanned and got a random multiple misfire code. I then changed the plugs and wires. Had to repair the threads for cylinder two. Did all that and it kind of but not really solved the problem. A few weeks later got another check engine light. Cylinder 3 misfire. Changed ignition coil. No better. Shortly thereafter I checked again whilst at work and read misfire on 3 and now 2. Currently replacing the intake manifold o-rings and cleaning out intake.
View 6 Replies2000 4.2....Last year I had to replace the coil pack when it started running rough and had a code for a misfire on cylinder 3. It is doing the exact same thing now, same code, same cylinder. Is there something wrong that is causing this?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 ranger and have had ongoing problems with misfire cylinder six and have had three different mechanics diagnose the problem as a bad ground. I have replaced all plugs, wires, coil pack, injectors and am constantly pulling the plug on cylinder six, cleaning and often replacing, I also disconnect the battery so it resets the check engine light and it runs fine for about 100 miles and starts running rough again and on goes the check engine light. I have 134000 miles and have maintained it since new.....
View 4 RepliesI have an 02 ranger xlt 3.0, it started having a rough idle, codes say cylinder #2&3 misfiring, changed plugs, wires, coil pack, didn't work, still same code, checked injectors on right side, all 3 had ohm reading of 15.8-16.5, the injectors were clicking like they are supposed to, sprayed carb cleaner around the intake ports, didn't change the idle at all,what else can I check or do? with out tearing the engine apart, unless of course I have to, the truck has been very good to me, it's got 205,000 miles on it, I need it to last at least another year...
View 4 RepliesSteam out the tail pipe, misfire codes, rough idle. No water in oil, no over heating. Head gasket ??
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Elantra with 170K miles. well taken care of. I've been having a rough idle issue for some time now. The car idles very rough. I checked for codes and I got the cylinder 2 misfire code (P0302)...
I started out and replaced the plugs and wires, no solution...
I replaced the coil packs, no solution...
I replaced the MAP sensor, no solution...
I figured it may be no to low compression, so I did a compression test and all cylinders came back normal, still no solution...
I figured it might be a dirty injector, so I poured some seafoam in the gas tank, and no solution...
So my next step is to switch out the injector. Is there anything I am overlooking?
Here's the big thing that is happening too... Everytime I fill up the gas tank, I turn the car on and it idles even rougher. Like if you talk while sitting in the car, you sound like Chevy Chase when he is on the vibrating bed with Beverly D'Angelo in the movie vacation! LOL. It slowly goes away after 10-15 minutes of driving. All this rough running engine ONLY happens at idle, otherwise it runs very smoothly.
I've recently purchased an 01 accent GS and I've replaced the timing belt, water pump, and spark plugs. Ive also got no cold air, and original struts with 119k on the vehicle. Those are the least of my worries now as my car loves quitting out at idle; and it does not get any better hot or cold. One of the plugs was completely black when it was taken out (not by me: mechanic work) so that's when they mentioned a cylinder misfire. they wanted an additional 100 to figure out what that could be attributed to on top of the 550 for the work mentioned above! I am now next to broke and want to see if I can trouble shoot some of the causes myself. I am thinking Plug wires, crankshaft/camshaft position sensors (if there are 2 dif ones?) MAF sensor, o2 sensor, injectors, and fuel filter. My understanding is that the coil pack controls 2 cylinders at a time and I just have 1 bad cylinder...I need to figure out where to start as I have no codes to work off of. also, I don't know how to assess resistance with an ohm meter.
View 12 RepliesThis has been an issue for about 8 months now. I'm getting a misfire on cylinder 4. So far compression test, new gas filter, fuel injectors cleaned, spark plugs and wires replaced. coil pack replaced. Heater valve was leaking but was replaced.
View 10 RepliesOK, got a check engine light today when I fired up the Ranger.
Took it down and got the codes read it have a miss fire on cylinder 5. Picked up some plugs and wires, got to get those E3's out of there, but kind of think that's really not going to fix the problem. So that probably leaves the coil pack or injectors.
So what's the consensus on the best coils to use?
Also, being an 18 wheeler for more years than I care to remember, I've learned swapping just 1 injector is never the way to go. So whats the best type of injectors to get and where the best place to get them should it come to that?
Oh, it's a 2000 3.0L Flex fuel 5 speed.
My parents 2000 Ranger has an CEL for cylinder 4 misfire, but it will clear on its own and then start up days/weeks later, is this common? Could it be an injector?
View 3 RepliesI have a misfire mystery going on in my girlfriends 00 ranger. What is going on, is there is an intermittent misfire on #4. I have an ultra gauge hooked to it, so most of the time when it does it, it will flash a pending code. A lot of the time, the pending code will go away, but sometimes it will set the PO304 code.
First I tried a tune up. New plugs and wires, air cleaner, cleaned out the throttle body. This cured it, for a short while. Then we were back to the pending code / setting code for #4.
When I pull the plug on #4 it is sometimes wet with gas. If you put a new plug in it runs fine for a while. In fact the last time we took a several 100 mile trip with it right after plug change, and it ran great. The pulled plugs re always in good condition with no burn, oil, chips or glazing. I have been using the standard autolites that are in advance auto's computer for that engine. No issues with the other 5 so I figure they re good enough.
The day after we came back I get the call... Honey its doing it again. Often to the point of having no power at all.
But it will clear itself usually, if not a new plug for #4 will cure it immediately.
So I thought something is killing this plug.... Or flooding it. SO I ran 2 cans of sea foam though it, put in a new plug and an new wire. It fixed it for a week then it did it again.
Ok I think... maybe the coil pack is bad either killing the plug or just not firing it at all? So since the pack has never been change in its nearly 300K life (to my knowledge, shes had the truck since about 60K) What the heck.... a new coil pack for the old thing.
I have not had the chance to clean the MAF but we are talking misfire on one cylinder, every now and then with no real conditions that set it off. More often than not its a pending code that you can even hear or feel and other times its a full blown miss that drags the truck down. Well for a short while until it clears up or I replace the plug.
3 cans of seafoam surely would have cleared a sticky injector. I realize it could be a bad wire to that injector but I have not had the time to tear the fiddle bits off to get to it to clean and test it... or just replace it.
Honestly Ive had a lot of cars and trucks, I don't remember ever having to replace an injector. Ive had bad wires to them but they misbehave ALL the time. This problem is so intermittent its freaky.
She says it does it mostly when its cold or not totally warmed up. Almost always, by the time the engine is hot it goes away.
And hot for this truck is over 185F, which I think its too cold to be running and the thermostat needs changed BUT she thinks cool=good. I keep telling her no, cool is often not good, the engine needs to be up to the operating temp.... which to me means 190-200. Her ranger runs between 170-180 all the time. I doubt thats causing the problem but still.... I think new thermo is in order.
My thinking is since it runs so cool all the time, the issue might be related to a spike in the temp over 180 ish, that gods forbid is opening a crack somewhere to suck air or lose compression.
And a compression test is my next step on #4 if/when it does it again. Now I have had cracked valves before, I don't recall them acting this way. After all sometimes the thing will go 100s of miles under different driving conditions and run fine. I don't think a cracked valve would be that nice.
Shes getting @18 MPG mixed driving, when it runs t runs like a bear. It always fires right up. There is no smoke, white or black. There is no water in the oil, no oil in the water. No audible exhaust leaks. No ticks knocks or oddball noises. For its age and miles almost 300K it runs perfectly.
Well until it has its intermittent issue with the misfire, that isnt bad enough to actually set the code.
I figured something out on my ranger that has been bugging me for a while it was a third cly misfire so I changed the plugs and it went away for a while.the po told me he had just changed the plug wires so i didn't mess with those and it was an intermittent misfire so i changed the brain box because it was 15.00 at pull and save and it had been all updated boy did it run smooth for a while then the misfire came back. So I decided to check the 3rd cylinder plug wires and found out the one that is hard to change on the drivers side was badly rusted so i borrowed one off my windstar it was a little longer but boy does it run smoother and it doesn't die all the time and chug chug all the time now i just need to change the battery. i have already changed the clutch and the tranny twice i took one out of an 88 and it fit just fine by the way the engine is a 2.3 8 plug engine with over 230,000miles on it my next project is a timing belt and a heater core won't that be fun and yes i smell the antifreeze inside and don't like the stop leak like the last person put in.
View 2 RepliesBeen awhile since I've been able to post but I've got a serious issue with my 2006 Ranger XLT 4L V6. So last night about 2 miles from home my check engine light started flashing like it was a at a rave and my engine wasn't acting right, also had the STRONG odor of raw gas, no other lights from the dash, no fluids leaking, oil was good n nothing in radiator but coolant. Was able to baby it to my current home but all my tools are in storage so had to wait to get my ODB scanner to see what's up. Scan came back as 'cylinder #3 misfire' & 'O2 sensor reading rich'.
Go cylinder #3 spark plug out and it were fouled bad. Got ride to the store and got a whole new set. Got back n got'em changed and fired ut up, idle still rough and check engine started flashing again and white cloud coming from exhaust pipe and STRONG odor of gas. Check and now have 'multiple missfire', 'cylinder #2 misfire' and 'cylinder #3 misfire'.
Shut it down go and double check ALL spark plug wires are connected and TRY to start, get about a turn n a half then starter spin. Try again and the engine won't even turn over. "Great I've seized the engine!" Was able to put a socket on the crankshaft pully and manually turn the engine over "whew didn't seize the engine", did this a couple of times and tried to start, was rough but eventually it fired up, still idling rough and again check engine light flashing, while it was running I pulled one plug wire at a time from the coilpack to see/feel the lighting and there was spark for the 3 I pulled, didn't affect engine idle.
Run codes and 'cylinder #3 misfire', so now that the engine is was warmed up I pulled out my ohm meter and started checking wire resistance. Cylinders #1, #2 were at .012, #3 was .011 and #5 was .009.
I've figured that the raw gas is due to cylinder #3 not burning and just pushing gas into the exhaust. So to the brass tacks, do I invest in a new set of wires? Or could it be the injector being stuck open and just flooding the cylinder? No when I originally pulled the #3 plug fuel did not spill out. Haven't pulled #3 again due to it being May in Arizona and had to take a break. I'm going on the assumption that the engine wouldn't start after a short run do to "hydraulic lock in cylinder #3", my manually turning the engine over cleared this and allowed the engine to start.
I am currently chasing misfire codes that started out on cylinder 5 p0305 was the first code I replaced spark plugs and wires about 200 miles the code returned checked coil with meter it was barley in spec. I have replaced coil same code only difference was a hard start cold or hot replaced injectors now hard start is fixed but logging codes for right bank is to rich and p0300 304 305 and 306 also performed compression test on right bank and readings are 155 155 and 160...
View 3 RepliesI have a ford Ranger with a 2.5 and 231,000 miles. I bought this truck with a misfire on #1 cylinder. drove it home and started it a couple days later and still misfire on #1 but as soon as you rev up the motor the #2 starts misfiring as well and dies. start it back up and misfire on #1, rev up the throttle and misfire on #2 also.
Here's what i have done so far. intake gaskets, plugs and wires, checked fuel pressure (good), swapped injectors on 1 and 2 with different injectors, timing belt, tensioner, swapped coils from primary to secondary no change, checked compression and all 155 and above.
I have talked to everyone i know and am getting no where. the truck can sit and run for a hour with a minor misfire on #1 but as soon as you hit the gas it starts another misfire on #2. I am thinking it is a ecm issue.
I have a 1999 ford ranger 3.0 6 cyl with 211,110 miles It started running rough without any previous warning signs. In idle its barely noticeable, once i put it in gear it gets rougher and when driving around 40 to 45 mph it roughly shakes and shimmies. Once I get past the 40 to 45 mph range it settles back down. Is there a specific issue that would cause that at that speed. When going up over a bridge the check engine light blinks.
I changed the spark plugs and new wires and it offered no success even though one of the plugs were black (to much gas). I have borrowed a diagnostic tool and got P0305 cylinder 5 misfire, I am thinking fuel injector to replace, what else should I be looking at?
1999 ranger 155k 3.0 flex fuel. 304 is misfire in cyl number 4... I replaced the plugs and wires and checked the coil. the compression in cyl 2, 4, 5, 6 and got 80-90 psi so they are consistent but consistently bad right, it may be my compression tester.
The #4 plug was spotless after running 5 min, the #5 plug had some black on it already. Its hard to tell but it seems I had fuel residue on the plugs on cyl 5 and 6 but none on 4? Whats next pulling the intake to get to the injector?