Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2001 V6 Only Runs On 2 Or 3 Cylinders
Aug 22, 2017
My 2001 V6 Ford Ranger Edge has 124, 000 miles and always ran very well, Shortly after a minimal attempt to pull a vehicle out of a ditch the vehicle began to run poorly. This may be coincidental as problem did not begin straight away. The engine refused to start at first but now appears to run on 2 or 3 cylinders. I have checked AND CONFIRMED the following:
Spark at all cylinders
Fuel filter replaced
Fuel pump checked
Fuel pressure 56 psi at schrader valve on fuel rail
Fuel inertia cut off valve checked
E_Z start sprayed in feed horn did nothing
I hope to avoid towing it to the dealer,as I recently had a very negative experience doing this with the Honda dealer..
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I've been fighting some issues with the truck and decided to do a compression test to decide if I want to try to keep 'Old Yeller' alive or not. I'm all for working on it until I have to dig into the lower end of the motor. I rented a compression tool and the results were a little shocking. I did this test with a slightly warm motor, fuel pump relay pulled, all spark plugs pulled and throttle @ 100 %. Motor turned over 10 times for each cylinder. I even moved all the rubber o-rings on the tool up on the threads to make sure I was getting a good seal.
Cyl 1 - 40
Cyl 2 - 0
Cyl 3 - 0
Cyl 4 - 80
Cyl 5 - 0
Cyl 6 - 60
Needless to say I didn't even bother doing this wet. My only real question is can this be close to accurate. I drive the truck daily. 160k mi on it.
I'm fighting the dreadful P0171 and P0174 codes and after a couple cycles I will get misfire codes. Its low on power (hard to keep @ 70MPH with some wind) and gets 10MPG right now. However it starts and runs and stays consistent (even though it rumbles like it has a nice cam in it).
Is it time to put Old Yeller down ? Are these compression results even remotely accurate ?
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I just finished rebuilding my 1990 2.9 and it wouldn't start. When we did the initial start up, the truck needed ether to start and ran decently while stumbling. I found out that the spout connector was removed from the previous owner so I spliced it but still no starting ...
I installed a new fuel filter, fuel pump, cleaned the injectors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter and cleaned the MAF. ..
Its not a spark problem because I'm getting good spark from all the cylinders and yes the timing was set correctly. It sounds like it wants to start but just doesn't have something to make it boom. There are also no codes...
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Is there something that would make the 3 cylinders on the drivers side of a 1990 2.9l not fire? I have spark to the plugs and pressure/fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. The passenger side cylinders are firing fine and the engine runs (roughly) on these 3 cylinders. Truck was running just fine, then all of a sudden, drivers side is dead. Is there a fuse or something that controls these three fuel injectors?
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Al right i have a 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 auto 186k ... The truck has new bosch double plat plugs gaped .054, new wires, MAF, TPS, FPR, O2 sensors, ECTS and I checked the intake air charge sensor and is fine ....
My issue is cylinders 4,5 and 6 dont fire... the coil is sending a spark, i can pull the plugs one at a time and watch them fire (strong blue spark)... All fuel injectors do not leak and spray a perfect cone out of all 4 holes and noid light test is good ...
The truck runs like crap back firing and no power under 4k and i can pull off all 3 wires for bank one and it make no difference and when i unplug the injectors no more back fire....
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I have a 2003 ford ranger edge with the 3.0l engine. It started acting up today so i brought it to get checked because the check engine light came on. Three codes where pulled p0300, p0306, and p0313. They were multiple/random cylinders misfiring, cylinder 6 misfire, and first misfire at 1000 rpm. I have replaced the plugs and coil and still have the trouble.
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2003 Ranger (4.0 L-2wd)...
Codes - random misfire and cylinder banks 1, 2, 3, reads out lean fuel
Will be checking out injectors and rail pressure, however, trouble shooting in general for this issue.
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2001 VR6 GTI....
Already done:
Replaced the coil pack and plugs
Measured resistance of plug wires (all at about 6K Ohm)
Replaced front O2 sensor
Replaced purge solenoid valve
Replaced coolant temp sensor
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pressure regulator
Replaced MAF sensor
Cleaned the throttle body
Cleaned the throttle position sensor
Ran a tank of seafoam treatment (injectors were new 6 mos ago.)
Checked running voltage of battery
It was smoking and stinking bad with a rich mixture. It improved with the MAF change but still runs like a farm tractor. Now it idles on 3 or 4 cylinders, runs rough through 3000 RPM then runs cleaner at above 3000 RPM, but only at light throttle. CEL is either on or flashing when driving.
Don't know what to do next - nice car not fun to drive like this. What this could be and how to test it?
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Its a 1994 with 4.0, automatic, 4x4. Running fine, parked it, a week later I'm getting a bad but sporadic miss that according to the stealership is the 3 cylinders on the right bank dropping in and out. Driving down the road you can feel them drop out and when they come back its a kick in the pants like a turbo kicked in.
Shop says wires are good, plugs are good, and then lost me when they started talking around in circles and not making much sense.
What could make 3 cylinders all on the same side of the engine drop in and out? This wasn't anything that slowly came on. Fine one day, crap the next. The only thing I did prior to was replace the IAC because it was idling high, it was cruddy inside, and it looked like it was original. It was running fine after that till this issue popped up out of nowhere.
Mileage was claimed to be 178k but I'm beginning to suspect it's probably 278k.
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I have a 99 ford ranger xlt 4.0 ohv basically it sputters so bad while driving it sounds like a dump truck but it all started when I changed my o2 sensors but in doing so I broke my heater control valve and when I was going down the road it started sputtering well it started sputtering so I checked the o2 sensors there good and I changed the heater control valve. But nothing so I changed my coil pack spark plugs and wires but still nothing. But on my reader it says cylinders 2,3, and 4 are misfiring and bank 1 and 2 are running lean plus it has a bad aroma of gas in the engine compartment but when it idles its somewhat smooth but when I'm driving it its horrible the sputtering is so bad it takes awhile to get up to speed plus I'm only getting 100 miles to a whole tank that's like 8 or 9 mpg I need to fix this soon. This is my only transportation...
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I just changed the plugs and wires on my 2008 Ranger 3L. Now it runs rough with no power. It was fine before I did the work but I thought I should change the plugs at 215000KM. I used Ford wires but unfortunately I used Bosh platinum plugs and now think I will change to Ford plugs. Do you think the Bosch plugs would be that bad for the Ranger? What is the belt tensioner torx size? I had to move the A/C compressor over to get the #4 plug but had a very hard time trying to loosen the belt.
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My pops has a 86 ranger with a 2.9. And what its been doing is, it will start up just fine then u give it a minute and itll start to run very rough like a bad miss fire, then if he revs it up for a bit. It will clear out and then run just fine until he starts it up again and it seems to do it more the colder it gets and it smells very rich. Iv checked the injectors and there fine, what other things could it be ? O2 sensors oorrr
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My girlfriend has a 97 Ford ranger that can't make it out of the driveway when it warms up to operating temp. This is what was replaced thus far. Cat, timing belt, plugs and wires, air and fuel filters. It has about 37 psi at the rail, the codes shown were second 02 sensor, and fuel to lean on bank one? I looked thru a few postings but I'm actually at work and can't really spend too much time looking thru much more. The timing was checked about three different times just thinking that was the problem after the new belt was installed. It does idle perfect at all temperatures it just won't go when it warms up. Unplugged the TPS, no change, was thinking electronic ignition module but not sure if it has one or where it is if it does.
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This has been an ongoing issue for about a month. When I start the engine after it has been sitting and is cold it runs ruff for about a minute then smooths out and runs fine. I pulled a P0304 code (cyl.4 missfire) but I do not get a CEL.
I checked the plugs and they were ok but I changed them and the wires anyway as it just turned 50k and the plugs were original. I could live with a little cold ruff idle but the code throwing bothers me. The truck is a 2000 xlt 4x with auto trans. and 4.0 engine. This is my second 4.0 ranger but I have only had it for about 6 months.
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My 1995 ranger was running just fine then today overheats in five minutes and then runs at very high rpms, has 2yr old water pump new tstat don't think head is blown no water in oil no white smoke no water on the oil cap, I haven't check the plugs for water, stated raining no garage, when engine is cold starts runs fine,but when it gets hot its like a train...
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I am working with a friend on his 99 Ranger with a 4.0 . When first started it will idle rough and hesitate for the first 300 feet or so, and then clear up and run smooth the rest of the day. If he lets it set for 6 or more hours it will repeat the problem. He has taken it to a local Ford dealer and they have replaced spark plugs, plug wires, coil pack, cleaned the throttle body, checked the air idle motor and passage.
He has had it to the dealer 3 times and their latest plan is to pull the heads @ a cost of 1500.00 to start. Since it runs well, no coolant in oil or oil in coolant nor loss of either fluid, I couldn't figure why they want to pull the heads.
To date it has not thrown a code, I ran it on a New Generation Star tester and cannot find a code. The truck runs great after the first intial start up and does not give any signs of cutting out or lack of power. My guess is it is losing fuel pressure overnight and is taking a while to reprime. Original fuel pump and 160K miles. Will do a fuel pressure test this weekend.
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'88 Ranger 2.9L V6 starts and runs but shuddering. Most noticeable when shifting and revving the engine. Will a dead cylinder cause this? How do I check?
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I have a '92 Ranger with a 2.3 liter engine. She starts and runs a couple of seconds and shuts down. I'm thinking maybe a fuel pump is not putting out thepressure needed. Gotta go to work tomorrow and gotta get the truck running today.
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I have a really nice 1986 Ranger XLT with a 2.9 V6 (injected) and OD Automatic with about 135k miles. I've had the truck for over ten years and have been pretty happy with it. I'm still trying to correct a couple of nuisance items:
1. Sometimes it runs smoothly, and at others it has a rough idle, and once in a while it will even stall. Before it stalls, it idles or runs roughly, and will miss erratically. When it quits, it does not fade out like it is running low on gas; it quits suddenly, like the ignition is turned off. If I am driving at highway speeds, sometimes it will buck as it misses, and sometimes stalls out. But it always starts up right away afterwards. This does not happen often, but when it does, it happens several times over hours or days, and then goes away by itself for months, even years, and then comes back for another round.
I was hoping whatever was wrong would totally fail, but it has been several years and is not getting better, nor worse. Fuel mileage varies, too, from 16 to high 20's MPG. I have new low- and high-pressure fuel pumps (dual tanks), new gas and air filters, checked all the electrical connections, put in a new ignition switch, new O2 sensor, Air Flow sensor, EGR, replaced all the vacuum lines, new battery and cables, new starter, all new electrical relays, fuel pressure regulators, new fuel pump inertia switch, tuned up engine (incl. wires, cap, rotor, ign module, plugs and timing), and cleaned out the already sparkling-clean tanks.
2. My oil pressure will drop at idle to low-normal when the engine is warm. It never goes to below Normal on the gauge. I have replaced the gauge, sending unit, and oil pump. This is a long-term issue, and is not getting any better or worse.
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I have a huge problem. My 94 ranger 2.3L 5 speed manual transmission, has problems with idoling while it's cold, has no power going uphill and stalls when I slow down to stop. This is all after putting a new motor in. The old one was running ok with 310,000 but lagging bad. I figured with the driving I do, a new motor wouldn't be a bad thing. Boy, was I wrong. It has been a nightmare. But once the truck is up to operating temperature, it runs so smooth you wouldn't think there was a problem. But let it cool off, restart, and boom! There it is. We have changed so many parts and sensors with absolutely no change to the original problem. It's very frustrating. I just can't let this problem win. I will figure it out.
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Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start,the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad....
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