Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 - Antifreeze Drip Coming From Up High Around
Jan 30, 2013
I have had a small antifreeze drip coming from up high around what I have been thinking was the water pump gasket. I have not pin pointed it exactly though. for the last 3 days i have been getting code po174 and now added po171 to that list. Also have something going on with my fuel fill vent or something as for a while now i have had to slowly squeeze in fuel to keep the pump from auto shut off on me like its full already. I have tried cleaning out that vent tube by spraying in carb cleaner even blowing on it but it seems to be a check valve, not able to blow in. i am thinking tonight that antifreeze leak may be related to those codes too. any thoughts? its on my 2003 ranger 3.0 flex fuel.
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My truck has been doing this since I got it and I can't figure it out. It's a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5 5Spd. It runs fine if you don't rev it above 2500-3000 rpm. After you rev it that high coming down to idle it is stumbling real bad and sometimes stalls. I've been driving it like this since I got it, and it does fine other than this. It gets better the longer you drive it, but it still will do it if you rev it high enough.
Here are all the parts I personally have changed (previous owner said he did the plugs and wires and air filter, which it looks like he did but I'm about ready to change them myself):
-Fuel filter
-coil packs
-timing belt
-egr valve
-cleaned throttle body
-iacv
-tps
-thermostat
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Just recently my 2003 3.0 Ranger has started to rev high between shifts. With the clutch in the it will continue to rev high for 8 to 10 seconds. Where should I begin to look to correct this problem?
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Truck is a 2003 Ranger EDGE 2wd auto w/140K miles (looks new) that was a one owner truck I recently bought. Came from Texas and is clean and was well maintained I got all service records up until I bought it in the fall last year. OK now the problems...
First...it has a high idle in the mornings when cold about 2000RPM. After it warms up it settles to about 800-900RPM but is VERY ROUGH to the point where it feels it will stall. I DID replace the spark plugs and the plug wires look newer and are not OEM. I DID remove and clean the IAC and it does not look very dirty but I did slightly clean it anyway.
When I did this I disconnected the battery for 20min. After I put it back together it ran smooth for about the first 10 minutes then same rough idle came back. I was told this truck has no EGR so that's not an issue. There are NO CODES and when I ran my pocket scanner nothing comes up either. Should I just go to NAPA and get a new IAC anyway? What else can I do?
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My '03 Ranger is having a high idle problem. It's a 3.0, manual, 2wd, 141,000 miles. When it's cold it will idle at about 1500 but once I drive it, even just to the end of the block, it will idle at about 3000 and shoot up towards that between shifts. At a traffic light it will idle at 3000 and maybe go down to about 2500. If I bog it down with the clutch it goes right back up once I put the clutch back in or put it in neutral.
I replaced the IAC, no luck. I cleaned the MAF and checked the voltage on the TPS and it is good. I replaced the PVC valve, but the old one was fine anyway. I've sprayed around with carb cleaner and don't notice any difference. I've plugged it into my dad's AutoTap which lets me monitor everything on my laptop and the only thing I can see that looks suspicious is that even with the engine off, the Absolute Throttle Angle reads 18.8%. If I step on the gas with the engine off it goes up to 91.8% so I would imagine that just has to do with the function of the TPS and probably isn't out of the ordinary, but I don't really know what that number means or what the Absolute Throttle Angle is or is supposed to be.
Short of taking the intake plenum off and physically inspecting it for cracks, I'm stumped.
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I am mixed up in which fasteners I have to tighten to stop my antifreeze leak. For this, I got some pictures. Do I have to tighten these bolts? Or these? Is this the upper intake intake manifold?
I am just really lost and want to tighten the right bolts and find the torquing specs of the bolts. In the first picture, we can clearly see there is a leak there of what must be antifreeze. The stuff I have been loosing slowly over months.
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Son has a 1987 ford ranger 2.9 engine 5 speed 4x4 truck. See anti freeze leaking @ the rear of the engine where the intake attaches to the block. How long to re & re the intake, ect. Is it just gaskets or what? Is it a big job?
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Which one is the ect? One is the ect and one is a switch for something?
Just gone done switching that POS plastic thermostat housing thing, both sensors were replaced not sure which one is throwing the code.
I have cleared the code and it keeps coming back.
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Ok, my question is, when gas pedal is pressed half or more down-ward, a squeal sounding is coming from engine compartment. 2003 ranger v-6 3.0 flex....
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I have an 08 Explorer with the 4.6v8. I've noticed the clutch fan on at start up the last few days. Check anti freeze and I was empty in the reserve. While filling the reserve there is a steady drip from the passenger side but I can not see it. It's trickling down the radiator but can't see from where. Is there a common hose, sensor or crack in reserve tank I should be looking for? Car hasn't overheated as of yet. It leaks with no pressure in radiator as well as with.
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2000 F150 4.6 i have an anti freeze smell and coming from my AC vents, stronger from Passenger side vents. I am losing some anti freeze from the reservoirs, where should i look for the leak?
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[URL] ... Looking for info on my 99 Ranger.
Here's what happened,I have an electric plow I hook to my Ranger every year with no problems,except this year. The day after hook-up my wife noticed no high beams, don't know if the two are related but I did nothing but connect the plow wires already in place. Anyway I proceeded to look for a fix, fuses first, replaced both headlights next, blinker/high beam/wiper lever-still no fix and to boot my truck doesn't ding when keys in ignition, four wheel switch doesn't work, & wipers don't work.
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I have a 99 Ranger w/3.0. It idles about 1500 rpm cold,and 1200 warm. Here are the things that I have tried.
1.Checked ALL vacumn hoses/lines
2.Changed Air idle control sensor
3.Throttle position sensor
4.removed and completely cleaned throttle plate in throttle body.
5. removed top of intake manifold and checked for cracks and/or leaky gasket.
Nothing seems to change. Could it be a faulty ecm?
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85 ranger 2.3 fuel injected misses at high acceleration. Fairly new plugs and wires, just replaced the timing belt, pretty new fuel pump in tank, new fuel pressure regulator and pcv. It idles well, starts up and drives pretty well until you get it in 4th and really bog it down. Could be timing issues but I'm pretty sure I did everything right when I put the belt in. What it could be? I know when the tank fuel pump went out, it did something similar for a while...
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My 92 ranger, 2wd, 6 cyl, manual trans, is running at about 3500 rpm at idle. I was wondering what might be the cause, maybe something with the throttle or could the gauge be screwed up.
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My ranger has a 3.0 v6 engine it idles high and accelerates on its own sometimes. Sometimes its more often then others. I turn my key about three times thinkin its reseting the computer and stop it and it does. But I keep hitting a dead end and don't know what to do about it.
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My son just purchased a 1996 Ford Ranger 2.3l 5 speed it is a nice little truck. But I have a question when you press in the clutch it acts like the choke has come on it idles way to high. When you come to a complete stop it is a few minutes before it goes back to its regular idle. Is it suppose to do that?
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I have no High Beams and the little blue light does not come on in the dash. I also do not have flash to pass. I searched through the older posts and found other similar problems but their dash indicator came on. I changed both bulbs this morning and checked the 2 fuses in the panel (#4 & 8 I believe.)
What to check next? I don't see how you would get the headlight switch out of the dash to change it, the fuse panel is directly behind it. Does it get moved to access the switch? Should I be looking at the dash on/off switch first or the column lo/hi/flash to pass switch?
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I have a 1995 ford v6 4.0L with a 4R55E transmission, and 3.27 Non-LS axle. So Im guess the 2H (high range) is the 3.27 Gear ratio. But in 4L (low range) whats the ratio?
And pew lol this rangers 4wheel drive is a beast went through a crap load of mud yesterday which also brought me up to the question should i be using 4L or 4H for that?
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99 f150 4.6 4x4 ... auto.. so, driving on the interstate I had to accelerate hard to avoid hitting a crazy driver... after that I smell antifreeze... get home can't find a leak.. wait a bit and I see antifreeze leaking passengers side coming down the firewall outside... if you are laying behind the passengers front tire with your feet to the back tire.. looking up you see the catalytic converter.. behind that on the firewall a stream of antifreeze... follow the stream up and there is a piece of plastic just about were the firewall starts to go straight up from the floorboard bend.. putting my hands in that it goes inside..and its wet inside..
I can't tell what that's for really but. Am I guessing evap coils access? any rate. I don't feel any dampness inside yet.. but I do smell it in the cab stronger now. I haven't ripped up the carpet either. Im suspecting my heater core sprung a leak?? there is a good amount of fluid coming out and down the firewall outside I would say I have about a 6-foot puddle now. course I parked on a hill too. no fluid that I can tell is at all leaking off the heater core hoses.. they felt dry. Im guessing there is a drain port in that black box inside and that is where this is coming out?? no noticeable leak from the motor side.. it's all dry.. its actually going down the firewall and hitting a metal plate that carries out to a cross member on the transmission and then leaking down.. motor area is dry.
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I now have a 1991 ranger 3.0 super cab. I need a step by step walkthrough of how to time it. Keep in mind that I ha the distributor out while turning the engine over so I need from start to finish, including the spout connector. It runs right now but idles high at the start and the. Stumbles down to about 500rpm and sometimes dies....
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