Ford Ranger / B-Series :: AC System - Clutch Goes On And Off When Add Freon
Aug 19, 2013
2003 Ford Ranger .. ac:system is over pressurize when I add freon the clutch goes on and off.Is there a high pressure switch for something
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Aug 19, 2013
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Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 - Grinding Noise While Shifting - Use Pressure Bleeder On Clutch System?
Just picked up a 2003 Ranger XL 2.3L and notice that I get a little grinding every now and then when shifting into 1st gear. The clutch was replaced 3 years ago according to the PO but had no clue as to how long it's been since the clutch was bled.
I've used my Motive pressure bleeder numerous times in the past on brakes with much success but I've never used it on the clutch. I've used vacuum bleeders as well but it's always a 50/50 success rate with that. The pressure bleeder just works much better for me.
Using a pressure bleeder on a clutch and if so any tips like still needing to tip the master cylinder end up to release any potentially trapped air bubbles?
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Clutch Would Not Disengage At Any Time
This morning, I shifted into neutral and left the truck running. When I got in it put it in reverse, the shifter peddle went all the way to the floor and the clutch did not engage. I turned off the engine, and the transmission shifted easily. I put it into reverse, started the engine, and when I tried to shift back into first, the same thing happened. Pedal to the floor with no resistance, and I could not get it into gear. I finally forced it into 1st to get back into the driveway, but had to stall the engine to keep from going through the garage door. The clutch would not disengage at any time. I checked the master cylinder and it is 1/2 full. Has my clutch gone out?
View 14 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1999 XLT V6 - No Clutch / Can't Shift
When I got home today I went to back into my parking spot and couldn't get my truck in reverse, or any other gear for that matter.
I've been suspecting something was going to go wrong because the last few weeks or so when I push the clutch in it sounded like bb's rolling around in a metal coffee can. Since I have owned it (2 yrs) the clutch has seemed funny anyhow, as in I really have to feather it so it doesn't grab and stall out.
So I've visually inspected what I can so far. Master cylinder fluid is at a proper level and I pulled the inspection cover on the transmission. I didn't see any fluid and reached inside and there wasn't residue in there either. I observed the throwout bearing pushing the clutch cover fingers in when the pedal is pressed and that is about it.
Just wondering about some additional checks I can perform to pinpoint the problem, as well as how to fix it and get rolling again.
1999 Ford Ranger 4x4 XLT
3.0 V6
134,xxx miles
No modifications
Ford A/C :: System Not Taking Initial Freon Charge
Just got done replacing a compressor, dryer, and orifice tube, flushed all hoses and the evaporator and condenser, blew everything out several times with compressed air, hooked up the vacuum pump and let it run for almost an hour and when I went to put in the new freon, it won't pull it into the system. Low side jumped up to 100psi when I opened the valve to the can and the high side is reading right about 100psi also but the freon is not flowing into the system. Without tearing everything back apart, I thought I would check what could be the problem. I jumped the low pressure switch and the compressor is running.
View 4 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1999 - Clutch Slipping - Replacement?
My clutch is weak and slips sometimes and I need to replace it. ,I have replaced the clutch disc in other trucks but never a Ranger.
1999 3.0, 5 speed stick, Extended cab....
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1998 - How Hard Is It To Replace A Clutch
I think the time is near for a new clutch in my 98 Ranger, 2wd/ 5 spd. How tough of a job is this? I've changed the one in my 66 Mustang years ago but things were less complicated then.
View 3 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Clutch Pedal Went Almost To The Floor Before Disengaging
1997 Ford Ranger w/manual 5 speed tranny
A few weeks back my clutch pedal seemed a bit softer than usual one day. Still it worked fine... no problems shifting. Today after a short ride it went almost to the floor before disengaging. Now I cannot get it in gear without grinding.
So cold out I'm not sure I want to tackle this right now, what to look for and where?
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1996 - Clutch Pedal Locks When Hot
I've had my truck a few years now but for 2 it was basically parked. When I started trying to use it again I am having issues with the clutch now. When it is cold everything is fine, but on hot days or after I have been driving for a while It will lock the pedal up and will not let me dis-engage the clutch at all. Sometimes when it does eventually let the pedal down it will go to the floor and stay there for a few seconds until it slaps back up and engages slamming the truck into gear.
I have yet to try much. I'm not good at working on anything other than stereos in cars but I am willing to try. My thought is some water got into the system and is boiling in the lines but I am not sure. Places to start? I really need my truck going and the couple places I've taken it dont even want to try it seems like.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1988 2WD Dies When Clutch Is Released
My Grandpa has an 88 Ranger 2wd with the 2.9l V6 and a 5 speed, I believe, M5od. I was driving down the highway when I heard a noise. I tried throwing the tranny in neutral but when I pressed the clutch pedal in, I had no pedal whatsoever. Engine took awhile to restart. It'd turn over a little almost as if a rod was bent or something of the sorts. Eventually the engine started and would stay running as long as the clutch was pressed in (disengaged).
The engine dies no matter what range the transmission is in,neutral included unless the clutch pedal is depressed. It Will die when the clutch is released in any gear with no forward movement that is noticeable. I can spin the tail shaft with the driveshaft installed and all gears in neutral but the input does not spin at all. Input shaft wont spin at all, period. I originally thought the slave cylinder was KIA but now I am very confused on what the problem could be? Is there a bearing the input shaft rides on that may of seized?
I pulled the tranny last night and took the top cover off. Yes, I made sure it was in neutral when I removed the cover. I can manually shift the collar to all gears by hand, 5th and reverse included. I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place here and where to go from here. I have bought a new clutch assembly and slave cylinder. This truck was bought by my Grandpa brand new in 1988. It has 98,000 miles and everything is original. I did forget to mention that there was very little oil in the trans when I drained it and it appeared to be gear oil vs ATF.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1997 - Transmission And Clutch Interchange
Will a clutch/flywheel and 5 spd from a 1997 ranger bolt up to an older 1980ish engine that had a 4 spd? What about the starter?
View 1 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2004 - Clutch Pedal Went To The Floor
My buddy called and said his clutch pedal went to the floor on his 04 4.0 ranger. Said no fluid leaks or anything, so I suspect the slave cylinder went. He said the slave is on the inside of the trans and you gotta pull the trans to do the slave, so might as well do the clutch too. How hard is it to replace both these on this truck? I've done it on a 94 cummins, so the trans should be a lot lighter. just wondering how bad of a job it is to do?
View 2 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: AC Low On Freon / Clutch Not Staying Engaged When Revved It Up In Neutral
So I've worked on this A/C for 3 years, I don't drive this truck very much or often, partly because the A/C doesn't blow cold. Its a 99 f250 7.3 ... Here's what I've done, first it was low on Freon so I added some and it got cold, take off driving and it gets hot. After some research I check the clutch air gap and pull a washer. This changes nothing, I put a valve on the heater core, so I could manually shut it off just in case.
This year I replace the compressor because the clutch isn't staying engaged when I revved it up in neutral. I went ahead and replaced the drier and Orifice Tube, the orifice tube was clogged up. So I start recharging the system, and I get 2 3/4 cans in and its blowing cold, low 50's high 40's its 75 degrees outside. The gauges read 35 low and 300 high, I'm a little confused cause it was suppose to hold 41oz from what I looked up but ok.
I rev the motor just to check everything out, the low side heads down for a second then starts going up, the high side starts going up and doesn't stop. The high side goes all the way till it hit the high pressure switch 450 wow. I'm thinking its over charged, I let it idle and the compressor kicks on and the low is around 50 and the high is at 350. So I rev it up again 1800 rpms or so, and the low side drops down and so does the high side. Except this time the low side drops down to 15 " I had the low pressure switch unhooked and looped" and the high side around 225.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1999 - Grinding Noise When Let The Clutch Up Off Floor
1999 ranger 3.0, 5 speed stick. I was backing out of my driveway but there was a car coming so i pushed in the clutch and waited for the car to pass, when I let clutch pedal up off floor i heard a grinding noise, a little while latter did the same thing in first. Is this a first and reverse gear scyronizer or something else. What causes this and how to fix it ?
View 10 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 - Slave Cylinder Went Out / Clutch Replacement
1994 Ranger 4.0 XLT 4X4. My slave cylinder went out so I thought I would put in a spec clutch in while I'm in there. What do I have to pull off to get the 5 speed tranny / transfer case down? I don't want to pull off what I don't have to but I don't want to make it hard either. No Chilton on hand and I did a search on clutch but found no thread for replacement.
View 2 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: New Clutch - Hard To Shift Going Into 1st / 2nd And Reverse Intermittently
1997 Ranger extended cab, 222k mi., 4 cyl, standard transmission. Shifting got worse until it finally died and the mechanic replaced the clutch "kit" and slave cylinder.
It still fights back going into 1st, 2nd, and reverse. But it is intermittent. If I put it in neutral, depress the clutch, and start the vehicle, then, after a few seconds wait, when I try to go into 1st (or reverse), it fights me back, forcing me to pause and apply about twice the pressure I should need to go into gear. When I go forward in 1st, and am ready to shift to 2nd, it fights back so that I have to pause just a bit and apply more pressure than I should for it to go into 2nd gear. 3rd, 4th, and overdrive are FINE. Also, the clutch seems to disengage about halfway down, where I was expecting it to disengage after only 10 -20% depression.
The mechanic doesn't see the problem (or won't admit it). Is there an adjustment to make the clutch disengage with only 10-20% depression instead of the 50%? Is that something I should be worrying about?
Is there some other problem? Like maybe the synchromesh mechanism in the transmission itself not bringing the transmission rotor to engine speed soon enough (wear on the synchromesh)?
When it was new, it went into ALL gears with ease, no fighting back, and it starrted doing this after about 150k miles. Now, at 222k mi., even with a new clutch, plate, throughout bearing, and slave cylinder, it still seems partially stuck going into 1st, 2nd, and reverse.
I just don't want to start replacing things until I can get a correct diagnosis as to what is causing the problem.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 4.0 - Rev Limiter At 3000 RPM / AC Clutch Not Engaging?
So that's what if feels like, in park at idle it sounds great, starts great no codes. IF you floor it it will not go over 3000 rpms in park, it feels like it has hit a rev limiter. I have 60psi fuel pressure at idle and at 3000 rpm.
When driving down the road I won't go over 55 mph and drives normal if you keep it under 3000 rpm, if you give it more gas it falls on its face?
AC is not working (clutch not engaging)I don't know if that's related or not.
We did just swap the motor the truck is a 2003 2wd drive. motor came out of an 2002 4wd. we are running the 2wd harness, computer egr delete etc.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1993 - Clutch Release Bearing Install
93 Ranger, 4.0 liter, 4WD.....
Putting in a new clutch and clutch release bearing, and am wondering if I need to put the retaining ring in that came with the new clutch release bearing? When I took off the old release bearing, a ring did come off from somewhere, but I did not see where it was because it was so dirty.
The reason I ask is because my Haynes manual did not even mention a ring, so I was surprised to see one come off. And my manual does not say to reinstall the ring when installing the release bearing. I did get a newer Haynes manual at the library and looked through a bunch of Chilton, etc manuals.
The newer Haynes manual says to remove the retaining ring on 97 and newer models, but says nothing about putting it back in when reinstalling. So, I am not certain if I need to put a new retaining ring in with the new release bearing.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Soft Clutch / Gears Grind When Shifted Especially 1st And 2nd
I have a 96 2.3L 5 speed Ranger. The clutch has been getting softer and softer until about two weeks ago when I couldn't drive it anymore because gears would grind like crazy when I shifted, especially 1st and 2nd. I had no time and just drove my other truck but now I've had a bit of time to look into it. I went to bleed the clutch and then realized there was no fluid in there. So I tried to put fluid in but nothing happened. The clutch is still extremely soft. The truck won't even start when I have it in gear, it turns over and kind of lurches forward, even with the clutch pushed all the way in. It starts right up in neutral. So my guess is I have to do what I really don't want to... replace the clutch!!
Is it possible that since I just put more fluid in the clutch it may take awhile for that fluid to get into the cylinder and I have to bleed it again?
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: AC Compressor Starts Seizing Up And Burning The Clutch
So I just got done with my first 2 problems of the month with this truck last week. Front end and emissions along with spark plugs. Now, 4 days later this morning, I'm driving the truck trying enjoy the investment, and the AC compressor starts seizing up and burning the clutch. Unrelated but also worth noting, about an hour later the brake pedal gets real soft and the brakes get really sloppy at stopping the truck. The truck also stalled (auto trans) crossing a highway, luckily it was 5am and no traffic was coming.
I'm at $6k invested on a truck with 116,000 miles, and I've only put 6,000 on it. The repairs don't stop, and I've got many more ahead. Like rear suspension, axle, trans, and radiator fluids, and paint, to name a few. Any suggestions on fixing the AC before I drive this truck into a lake?
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 - Hard Shift - Transmission Or Clutch?
The truck: 03 Ranger, 2wd, 2.3L, 5spd, 160k mi
I bought the truck two years ago and it's always been difficult to shift (especially into 1st, 2nd, 3rd). I don't drive it often and only put 5k mi on it since I bought it.
The problem: Someone more mechanically inclined than I once told me that the hard shifting is probably due to the clutch not fully releasing due to low hydraulic pressure brought about by a failing slave cylinder.
I just noticed today that there is a high-pitched squeaking coming from somewhere on the truck. At first, I thought it was the rear end, but now, after pulling it into the driveway, I noticed that the squeaking noise vanishes when I push in the clutch pedal and returns after I release the clutch pedal and drive in 1st gear.
The transmission oil level is good, but I've never changed it and I'm not sure if the previous owner ever did either. I'm hoping I haven't damaged the transmission.
After reading a few threads, it seems the problem might be the input shaft bearing. To replace it, I'd need to drop the transmission and borrow a couple of tools I don't have (feeler gauge and bearing puller). If the ISB is the problem, it seems like it would be a good idea to change it now before it seizes and leaves me stranded somewhere.