Last night I decided to see if I couldn't do something about my leaky carburetor in my 1983 ranger. It's a motorcraft 2150 carb. I took it all apart and followed a guide to clean it, then put it all back together and reinstalled it today. Unfortunately my truck won't idle, makes a whiny noise, and acts odd with the accelerator.
I've got a video posted here : 1983 Ranger Carb troubles - YouTube ....
My truck jumps or runs roughly... I don't know how to describe it. It's like if someone dumped the clutch. It's a manual, it does it through all gears, so I don't think it's the transmission. I was thinking it might be the fuel pump, but I don't know how to diagnose it. I've got an 83 with the cologne v6. I think it's just got the engine driven fuel pump, no electric, but I'm not sure. Either way, I think it could either be the fuel pump or maybe a vacuum leak.
View 2 RepliesI rebuilt a 1963 ford 2B crburetor with manual choke. Put the carburetor on and it runs very rough. Won't go below 800 rpm or it dies and I need to choke it to start. Thought it was a vacumn leak so sprayed WD -40 and no change in idle. So pulled off the carburetor and put on the previous carburetor (with electric choke) and it runs great. I want to use the manual choke to hook up the cable though. I replaced everything in the carb. What do you think it is?
View 5 RepliesMy truck rattles when going up hills. The higher the rpm,the more it rattles. It sounds like a heat shield shaking. Also, when I accelearate on a flat road, I hear this very light knocking sound.
Motor has 190 000 km and is due for an oil change. Spark plugs and plug wires have been replaced. Engine sounds good when I rev it. No abnormal sounds. So, what would be my issue? Carbon build up?
1994 FORD RANGER stalls while driving - differant speeds ...differant miles ...no rhyme or reason to it - cranks right back up ...can even pop clutch and cut it back on. Already replaced Ignition Start Module - Dpes sensor - temp sensor - and scan shows all codes are clear and truck passes. We are clueless to whats causing this. 4 cyl 2.1
View 12 RepliesI have a 95 Ranger with the 2.3L and it is a five speed. I am having a starting issue. I have replaced the ignition switch, clutch position switch, starter relay and had the starter tested. The truck will not start with the key. I can jump across the relay and it starts fine but will not even click with the key.
View 3 RepliesI had my battery out for quite some time. When I put in a brand new battery my key was not recognized and my truck will not start.
View 3 RepliesAlthough my lil' truck (2006 Ranger XLT, 2WD,with 4-cyl / 5spd, and 115K miles) has been running just fine since I bought it about a year & 5K miles ago, I suspected it still had its original spark plugs and I figured I should change them before problems arrived.
As I suspected, the plugs that I took out looked to be original. I measured their gap and they all had excessive plug gaps - around 0.052" gap. I installed the four new AUTOLITE APP104 (double platinum) and checked their gap, and they were a bit tight at 0.042". My book says they should be at 0.044" gap. But I installed them at 0.042 anyway, figuring they'll burn wider in time.
One by one, I smeared a small bit of never-seize on the plug threads & at the plug-to-cyl head tapered edge. I smeared a dab of Dielectric Grease around at the top of the plug to ease the plug wire re-install and hopefully calm any possible arching. The plug wires came off the plugs easy enough and went back on just as easy.
I hit the key and the engine fired right up. It idled rough as expected. However, it continued to idle rough and if I raised the RPM level, it would respond, but still ran rough. It is throwing a 'Check Engine Light' on the dash cluster now - whereas it wasn't prior to the new plugs.
I tried to explain this to a garage in January with no luck. When it is raining I hit my brakes and my truck jerks like whiplash. Softly hitting brakes doesn't do it, normally hitting them does it (only in the rain), I had some welding done after I went to the garage.... They fixed the front passenger side now it feels like it is under me and it is now doing it when I brake in reverse too... I bought it October 2012 and it was safety inspected until October 2014. Trying to decide if it is worth keeping. I want to keep it but when I go to a garage they see dollar signs. It only acts up when it's raining. And I had the welding done in January and it was fine, until I got new tires last week.
View 12 RepliesOk, I replaced the head gaskets on this truck a couple years back and now I am having symptoms similar to the ones I was having then. I am not entirely convinced that this is what is wrong however.
Symptoms:
Truck was idling rough until it warmed up
Truck takes forever to warm up or simply does not warm up
If/when it warms up it operates at higher than normal temp/almost overheats(it hasn't overheated yet)
Heater blows very cold air
White smoke(has been cold outside so not sure if due to temp or coolant)
Overflow bubbled when I shut the truck off, but it has only happened once so far
I am kind of at a loss, but like I said am suspicious of the head gaskets.
My truck is pulsating when I am coming to a stop, a lot of you all said replace the rotors to which i did and new brakes, shocks. Today I went to get my truck all four wheel alignment done to my truck.. something is not right..
I got my driver tire facing straight, look at the left.. I went back to the alignment shop showed them that, they put it back up there, they called me over and pointed out the machine they use say, it is aligned.. So what is the problem you figure?
To update all I've done to the truck in regards to front end..
rack and pinion
upper control arm
upper lower ball joints
stabilizer inks
rotors (front)
brakes
shocks
When I straighten my left wheel, the right does not look right..
I have a 2002 Ford Ranger, and it wont start at all. Ive replaced the starter, had the battery checked. Not the battery, took starter out, had it checked too, its not the starter either. Someone said it maybe a fuse? This is totally frustrating, and I need to get it figured and fixed asap. Its been going on for weeks., I had it fixed and then it just stopped. It wont even take a jump anymore.
View 4 RepliesI have an 03' Ranger and I assume it has the BW 1354 tcase. I am getting a "clank" sound when the truck shifts from 1st to 2nd. I am thinking its the rear output yoke on the t case. I can grab it and move it up and down but there is no fluid leaking or anything. Would this be a rear bearing problem?
View 2 RepliesOK...When I leave in the morning and the ambient temperature is cool the truck runs fine. When I leave work and the temperature is warm to hot the truck backfires through intake, pings bad, has a miss and a surge and no power. There is no CE light, this is about to drive me nuts. I was just hoping (doubting) but hoping someone else might have had this problem so I don't just have to start replacing things until it's fixed.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1995 ford ranger v6 4.0 and for this week Ive been having a problem, stalling... It only happens when I do quick "stop and go" driving. Even sometimes at stop lights it wants to stall, the only way to keep it going is to keep my foot on the gas.
Now for a while when its cold or my truck has been sitting for a day or two the truck doesn't start on the first click.
I've had the fuel pressure checked, changed fuel pump, and starter. I have no check engine light on at the moment. Tomorrow I am gonna check with my scan tool just to make sure. But, it could be fuel pressure regulator, idle air control actuator, egr valve? How I should go along doing this?
I have a 96 ranger 4.0L shift lever was very sloppy and one of the torq bolt fell on the floor I used loc tite and tightened them up with no problem put everything back together and now it wont start. I think I checked everything even replaced the neutral safety switch, adjusted the tranny cable, checked fuses and switched around the relays maybe an ignition switch? I am running out of stuff to troubleshoot.
View 13 RepliesI have a '96 Ranger XLT. Just recently the dome light stays on while the truck is running. I have checked both doors and door frames. For the life of me I do not see a switch. The light does go off eventually after the truck is shut off (without killing the battery). What or where is the switch for this light..
View 14 RepliesMy 03 Ranger 4.0L has become a mystery that has baffled every one I know. Everything was fine and I ran home to something from my house was in there maybe 10 minutes came out and the truck wouldn't start. it doesn't even crank over. out of the clear blue. I had a friend who works for a garage check it and he thinks timing chain. Since then I have been told it wouldn't just fall off sitting there with no indication at all there was a problem.
Thought maybe PATS system. Its in order. Put in on a computer from auto-zone and it shows a check engine light but the reading is there is no codes in the computer on file. I am at a loss. Its been months and I really cant afford to take it to a garage right now. Its the strangest thing ever no crank, no stalling just nothing I hit the switch it lights up like its ready to start and nada.
Removing fuel injectors-coolant contamination.. How is this done? I need to see if they are any good-or clean/replace them-after I accidentally left the clip off the hose running out of the thermostat housing when I drained my coolant last week and the first time I drove, coolant leaked onto the top of the engine/manifold depressions, getting onto and into the fuel injectors.
I tried to clean it up as much as possible the first time(finally got it going) but still a few days later the truck at times cranks but does not start-hot or cold. I assume my idiocy is the cause or maybe it is just coincidence of something else? From what I read from my symptoms it could also be the fuel pump relay, pressure regulator, coolant temp sensor, crank sensor.. among other things. My fuel pump is 1.5 years old, so hopefully that isnt it. Have the injectors possibly been contaminated to where I should just replace them?
My 1990 4.0 refuses to start when the air temperature outside is at approx 40 degrees or below. It will crank until the battery runs dead if I let it. At approx 50 degrees farenheit the truck takes forever to start and always backfires out of the tailpipe and intake manifold (blowing off a hose on the vacuum tree) before it starts. If I can get it to backfire, it will start eventually. If it does not backfire, then I can run the battery dead and the truck still refuses to start. This condition has grown from a little problem to a huge problem over the past 6 months. Here is what I have done so far, including regular maintenance items.......
KOEO test checked OK
KOER test returned code 77 multiple times (TPS).
Replaced Throttle pos. sensor
Replace Idle air bypass valve
Subsequent KOER test came back with no more codes except 11 - OK
Load tested battery
Made new heavy gauge battery cables for + and -
New plugs, wires
newer starter
Changed coil pack for known good one off my explorer
Visually inspected hoses for vacuum leaks, replaced 1 cracked hose
1990 Ranger ext cab 4X2 4.0L, K&N air filter in stock airbox, Pacesetter headers, single 2 1/2" exhaust, stock cat no muffler, 260K on truck, 104K on good used engine from my 1994 Explorer. Purchased Ranger brand new in 1990. A4LD w/ shift kit.
I have a 95 Ford Ranger 2.3L with a five speed. I recently had a starting issue were I parked the truck, went into a store came back out and the truck wouldn't start. Figured it was the solenoid as I couldn't jump across it to get the truck to start. Replaced the solenoid. Still no go. Found a fuse in the starting circuit blown. Replaced the fuse and got it started and drove home. Next morning, I go to leave for work and the truck would not start. Got a ride to work came home and checked it over and found the starter locked up. I replaced the starter. Truck started for a few days and now I am having problems again.
Here is the problem I am having now. Starter is good. Proved that as I can start the truck by jumping across the starter relay. Checked the solenoid with a voltmeter and it is doing what it is supposed to do when the truck starts normal. Here is where I am scratching my head. I can start the truck sometimes and it starts just fine. Next time I try to start it, the fuse will blow.
Replace the fuse and it might work for a couple of starts and then the fuse will blow again. I jumped pass the fuse with a piece of wire for diagnostic purposes. Out of 20 starts, it only started normally 4 or 5 times. I have checked every wire I can see under the dash and have not found any obvious issues. I am at a point where I am so frustrated that I just want to push this 400k mile truck into the back forty and put it out of its misery like a lame horse.