I have a 1994 ford ranger 4x4 that I just put on and 35's and when I get to 35 mph it shakes really bad. What the problem is. Have been told that I need a steering stabilizer.
View 9 RepliesI just got a 99 2.5 rwd auto and it shakes when it's at idle in gear. I'm pretty sure its because the AC pulley is engaging drawing power. I was thinking about turning the idle screw up a blonde-one because when I hold the brake and give it slight gas it goes away.
View 3 RepliesI purchased a Ford Ranger from a single owner last year very good condition. It has about 320 000 on the odo. The truck was working perfectly the last year but recently started giving problems when I start up the engine (cold start).
Whenever it gets cold the engine would shake violently every 1-2 seconds during idling but stops when the engine is hot. I also hear some scary sounds from the engine while it is shaking (only if I stand outside).
I have researched it and I can't find a solution, apparently it can be a lot of things as well as timing belts etc. I had a mechanic change my timing belt a few months ago along with a major service. I am very scared something might go wrong with the engine.
Make, FORD Ranger
Model, 2008 Montana
Engine 2.5 tdi
Mileage 320 000
2x4
My 40 Ford pickup is on an 86 Ranger chassis and uses the stock Ranger steering gear. My question is about the connections on the steering box. I'm using a GM power steering pump and several steering gear vendors have told me that outside of needing to adjust the pressure for the correct feel, the combo works. I fired the truck for the first time tonight but the steering wheel went crazy, shaking around and finally spinning on it's own to a hard left.
Some quick research leads me to believe that I have the lines reversed but it would be great to know for sure. I did manage to find on e diagram of a Ford PS box on Google and it shows the lines reversed of what I have set up on my truck and I can't for the life of me remember how I figured out what the plumbing should be when I installed it. Which port on the box is the inlet and which is the return?
I have a 2003 ford ranger 2.3 vin d 5 speed, this truck originally... Took it in for wires plugs front brakes fuel filter battery and added a small cold air intake. We discovered a valve cover leak and while repairing guy drops a screw into a valve and when finished he started it lodged the screw between the valve, shearing off a cam sprocket bolt. Throwing the timing. 2 valves on the exhaust side were bent and replaced. no damage to the head.
Timing was reset and the truck was running. 2 days later truck is running/had a hint of exhaust smell then started bogging dying and shaking, at which time we got an 02 bank2 lean code and fixed that. it cleared code and didn't fix it. From there we replaced coil, imrc intake bc of a crack, tried and check all vacuum, reset the timing. Timing would slip before but no longer than 10 minutes every time truck started.
Found the hole in the timing cover that holds the bolt to torque? to harmonic balancer was broke. replaced along with the diamond washers and cam sprocket bolts. timing finally held crank sensor was adjusted. truck came home for one day running good, we had removed the cold air intake and replaced the factory air intake. next day it was so slow outta first gear, you must baby the throttle, if you floor It, it sputters and kinda pops, truck stays slow all the way to about 10 mph and 2000rpm then it begins grabbing speed, 3000rpm is where this truck shifts the best, 2nd is better, third better than that.
As rpm increase the truck runs better, it idles steady at 1100-1200rpm at stops with an audible miss and then struggles again on takeoff. Here what im wondering, the truck has an abs sensor that just came on, but no codes showing now.tomorrow I wil run matko determinator 3.0 on it. and test the catalytic converter. first how do I check the timing belt to see if it stretched? do these trucks store the p.i.d.s. koer or kams that could cause one, all, or any of this and if so do I have to have it flashed from ford or can you manually do this without a drive cycle test.
I have 1994 Ford Ranger 4.0. In Nov. I had the tranny rebuilt in Boston and also had new rotors and pads put on the front. By the time I got home, the truck was shaking badly when I hit the brakes. Since then, after it's parked a while, (I drive it once a week or so) I can't get it to move in "Drive". Reverse works fine. I thought it was the tranny but if I increase the gas flow, the rear wheels will screech, so I think the front brakes are stuck. After I'm able to "break" whatever holding them, the truck works fine. One of the rear wheel drum brakes is too tight and the wheel will feel pretty warm when I get it home and that will be taken care of but I don't really think it's the rear brakes or they wouldn't screech when I hit the gas.
View 5 RepliesI just changed my Oil, added a FRAM filter and bought some good Quakerstate High Mileage and my truck runs good. However, I noticed that my Check Oil light is constantly on. I also recently changed my Oil Sender, and I wonder if that has got something to do with it.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1994 2.3l 4cylinder xlt ford ranger regular cab Manuel transmission. My transmission is going out. I found an 04 ford ranger Manuel transmission off a v6 will this be compatible? And if not what years will be?
View 2 RepliesI need to change the AC relay. What is the location of the relay.
View 6 RepliesI have a weird issue. When I'm running AC on my 2.3l ranger sometimes the idle wont go down but rather hold its current RPMs till i either turn the AC off or place the truck back in gear. What that could be?
View 6 RepliesOpinions welcomed...thinking of taking a gamble on an '04 with 248k miles on it.....not sure what engine is in it.
View 14 RepliesHello. I never did this before but could you lock one hub in 2wd and leave the other unlocked. Also can you leave one hub locked while in 4wd? I was thinking if you have one hub locked would all the power would go to that wheel? Or will this do damage?
Thanks
I fit explorer rear axle to my 2wd ranger. But now I have fromt x-member with front suspension and front drive axle from explorer. Can I fit all this stuff to my ranger?
View 2 RepliesI recently purchased a 1997 Ford Ranger with a blown 4.0 with a 5 speed , I have a 5.0 with a Carb and 5 speed out of a 80s mustang . Is it possible to use this in the 97 Ranger , I understand I need a different fuel pump but motor mount wise I was hoping it would fit.
View 2 RepliesSo here is what I got. Code 157 maf sensor below minimum voltage. Here is what the truck does. When the MAF is plugged in and I step on it, the truck surges and when it drops below 1k rpm it dies but I can start it back up. If I hold the throttle at 1k it stays alive. When I drive with the MAF unplugged it runs better no surging but it still dies. Here is what I have done. Reset codes no change, put new MAF in no change. I have traced all 4 MAF wires checked continuity from inside of plug to inside of plug.
All wires checked out good. No cuts breaks or anything. I have checked my battery, starter, and alternator ad all check out fine. I read that someone said if the corresponding transistor in the PCM took a dumb then it would cause not enough voltage to get to the plug because the transistor would dump the voltage from the battery leading to the MAF. I thought about running a direct power source from the battery to the voltage side of the MAF with a switch in the truck to just see if that would solve the issue but I don't know if that is possible or smart.
Ok first I am not super-mechanically inclined but i'm pretty smart and a fast learner, lol. That said I have a 1999 Ford Ranger and two nights ago first one blinker stopped working and then an hour later the other one stopped. What I mean by "stopped" is they weren't turning on at all.
Ok so, the flasher lights are all working when turned on. I went to the auto parts store and they said I needed a new flasher. I bought it but they weren't sure which one to replace. Well there were only 3 that size in the box under the hood so I used the process of illumination. Except the new one didn't exactly fit the first one so i tried the two others. Well when I think I had it in the right one.
The Blinkers would only flash once and then that was it. The guy at the store said the flasher may be faulty but he did not have another one so he gave me my money back. I noticed on the way home that the blinkers would still flash once even with the old flasher in place. The 4 way flashers still work normally so all bulbs are working.
I have a 95 ranger with an overdrive auto. If you put your foot in it the converter wont lock up, you can get the tack past redline, but if you let off and the rpms drop below 2000, it locks up and holds until you apply the accelerator to much and it kicks it back out. Also the speedometer bounces and may not read right, abs light is sometimes on and it won't idle below 1000, I've checked for vacuum leaks already.
View 2 RepliesMy 94 ranger, 3.0 v6 began to sputter and jerk about a month ago. It does this when ever give more then lite throttle up until about 3000 rpm. I have replaced plugs, wires, coil and cleaned the air flow sensor. I feel like this has worked a little but the problem is still definitely present. When I hit 3k rpm if feels lie the truck begins to run correctly and almost like it had a power ban much like a dirtbike, but again it's just the truck running correct.. And above 3k rpm it runs great... and every so often the problem will completely disappear for 5 minutes or so, then come right back.
View 1 RepliesMy truck jumps or runs roughly... I don't know how to describe it. It's like if someone dumped the clutch. It's a manual, it does it through all gears, so I don't think it's the transmission. I was thinking it might be the fuel pump, but I don't know how to diagnose it. I've got an 83 with the cologne v6. I think it's just got the engine driven fuel pump, no electric, but I'm not sure. Either way, I think it could either be the fuel pump or maybe a vacuum leak.
View 2 RepliesI went to transmission shop today and tech told me c solenoid was showing performance problem when scanned. He took it for drive and said it was commanding shift into fifth gear. It is a 3.0 extended cab 2wd with just over 200000 on truck, transmission was rebuilt just over 25000 miles ago. Fluid is so clean its still clear looking just faint red color. All other gears shift and pull great all electrical clean and hooked up, he crawled under it and said pan adjustments were tight, whatever that means.
View 14 RepliesI have been thru everything i can think of except the main ECU on the ranger.
I've replaced the starter as well as the starter solenoid also the ignition switch.
What is happening is there is no power after the main wire to the solenoid from the battery. it doesn't power up anything. I've checked the fusible link and it appears intact. with a test light i can see that i have no power from the ignition itself i guess to tell the solenoid to work. i have noticed that the ignition cylinder is a little loose but what can cause there to be no power at all?
Could it be a bad solenoid?