Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Transmission Went Into Limp Mode With O/D Light Flashing
Nov 14, 2013
2001 Ranger 3.0 liter has developed a transmission casualty. I was driving along at 30 mph and the transmission went into "limp' mode with O/D light flashing and truck will only barely creep along with high engine rpm. When I got the truck home I was able to retrieve a p0720, output shaft speed sensor signal fault. I had hoped that replacing the sensor would solve this casualty.
Of course this was not the case. I have read all the posts I can find for this particular fault and realize that I must electrically trace the continuity of this circuit and also ensure that it's not grounded. I have been unable to find the needed wiring diagrams or pin out information.
Before I have to try and blindly start pawing through the connectors I'm looking for the pinout for the PCM and perhaps the bulk connector above the engine between the PCM and the transmission wiring harness. I am also keen to hear of any diagnostic tips that I may have overlooked.
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Turn air conditioner on transmission goes into limp mode??
1999 ranger 2 door 2,5 engine long wheel base,,auto trans.
2wd no power windows no power seats....
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Just set off on a day out, got about 3 miles and the cars gone into limp mode (running smoothly but no power) with the glow plug light flashing. I got back to the caravan so we weren't stuck at the side of the road and tried restarting it. It starts off for about a minute before coming back on. I've noticed that revving it in neutral the revs linger for a second our so after taking my foot off as if its not recognizing that the throttle position has changed.
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F250 7.3L diesel started to flash OD light, goes into limp mode, code p1747. No other codes. Have had issues for a couple of years where the truck would not shift into gear for awhile; sometimes a couple of minutes till it would engage. Have done lots of diagnostics. Visual check harness. Have 12v on pins 1&12 on harness at transmission plug. Plug had some ATF visible, but cleaned it up and continuity good. (with 4" exhaust hard to get to connector).
Checked all solenoid wires with a DVM back to plug at PCM for continuity and shorts, all good. Pulled transmission pack and checked resistance on all solenoids except temp varistor all within specs. Removed Banks Trans Command and rewired tranny plug and pulled Ottomind chip from PCM. Still goes into limp mode and throws code. Did not see any bad solder joints or burns inside PCM by the way.
Seems like PCM right? But here is a complication to my issues. For over a year I have been having electrical issues like the radio not working and windows not working intermittently after starting up. After running for awhile or on restart would work fine. Sounds like the Instrument Cluster issues or relays.(?)
Will be pulling IC and checking for any bad solder joints. However, did not throw p1747 till just recently and now my radio has really gone wonky. It comes on when key is on automatically and then proceeds to cycle through settings; AM-FM-CD.
So questions are, "Is it possible that a bad Instrument Cluster can cause a p1747 code?" "Bad Ground to Tranny" "Can a bad PCM cause a electrical issue in IC??" "Are these 2 separate issues?"
2002 f250 7.3L, 4R100 automatic trans, ~180,000miles
Banks Stinger package, 4" exhaust, TransCommand, (now removed).
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I just got an Egde Evo which I installed and everything looked great. After a few runs, I noticed the ABS light coming on an soon after that my transmission goes to limp mode (the wrench lights up).
I receive the DTC error: P2106 on the Edge Evo.
I have gone back to Factory default, but it keeps coming back, ie. the ABS light lights up and the Trans goes to Forced Limited Power (according to the Evo).
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I have a 2008 F350 with a 6.4 Powerstroke diesel engine that just experienced total engine failure. It has around 65K miles.
There is a heavy burn star pattern on all 8 pistons, a few pistons are cracked, a few cylinder walls are scored, glow plugs are melted, both heads are cracked with multiple stress fractures in each head.
About 1 month previously, the transmission would not work in tow mode and caused the engine to go into limp home mode. The dealership just replaced the entire tranny as a warranty item. About 1 week before the engine failure, I put in a 5.25 oz bottle of Lucas injector cleaner with a full tank of gas.
The Ford dealership is saying that the star pattern on all 8 pistons is due to high pressure fuel overspray and is evidence that I had a tuner on this engine and that the warranty is invalid. I did not have a tuner. What might have caused this engine failure?
Also, they only ripped down the top half of the motor, not the bottom half. I heard this might have been caused by a cracked crank shaft, but Ford refuses to investigate this possibility.
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Was on the highway cruising along and punched it to pass a slower vehicle. As I've done many times before without issue. Got a flashing CEL and it went into what I assume is a type of limp mode. I reduced the throttle input to the point the CEL cleared and full power returned. I did not have to stop the truck and key-off etc. I also made no further attempts to see if it would do it again. What causes that? Kind of annoying to pull out to pass and you hit limp mode.
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2002 Santa Fe, 2.7 AWD
The transmission has started going into limp mode and causing the check engine light to come on.
The codes given are p0750 and.... I think p0751, for shift solenoids C and D. There is also the generic Transmission Control Module code.
Limp mode only occurs at higher speeds although shifting feels a little rough at times in lower speeds.
If operated in manual mode the vehicle can be driven normally at all speeds without going into limp mode.
Fluid levels are fine.
With limp mode occurring in automatic but not occurring in manual mode, is it more reasonable to believe the solenoids are malfunctioning or the control module itself? I'm inclined to replace the solenoids but find it odd that the vehicle operates normally in manual. Also, can the solenoids be replaced without removing the transmission? It looks like I could get the pan off but am unsure if there is room to get the work done once it is removed.
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I have a 98 Ranger, 4.0 automatic 4x4...I just replaced the upper and lower intake gaskets and after fumbling with the pug wires to finally get them in the right order, I suddenly find my OD light flashing off and on, and the tranny slamming into second, and once in top gear can feel the OD popping in and out? From my reading here it looks like a pretty common problem, but the solution isn't as clear...
The vehicle set for about 3 months while I healed up from a injury, and and was working just fine when I parked it...due to the blown lower intake gasket. I am thinking I have a vacuum line not connected or wrongly connected...or some kind of over looked item, but I can't spot anything...should I get a code reader and go from there...
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I have a 2003 Ford Ranger, recently I had the heater core fail. One thing that happened during the heater core starting to leak is the "THEFT" light came on brighter than normal and no longer flashes when the truck is off. Also when the theft light started acting up the O/D OFF light came on and would not shut off. If I pushed the O/D off button the Theft light will go out and then come back on after the button is released.
After the heater core was replaced the lights stayed on as described above. Every once in a while the O/D off light would stay off but then come on later. No really problem besides the lights and O/D off button not working. Now today the O/D off light started flashing and the truck kept shifting in and out of O/D.
I'm leaning towards a speed sensor issue. I'm going to check and see if there is any codes tonight and will post my results. One other thing that happen with the heater core leaking is the "CHECK ENGINE" light came on because the O2 sensor was shorted out. Have the O2 sensor now and plan on replacing it while I trouble shoot the erratic shifting in and out of O/D.
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I had a problem with my truck about a week ago with the O/D light flashing and the ABS light on, I ended up taking the truck into my mechanic and he troubleshot everything and ended up finding out my trucks computer was fried. NOW, I want to know if the fact of me putting 31 inch tires on my truck was the reason for this happening or would it have been something else??? Because I really want to put the tires back on but I am afraid it might "burn" my computer again!
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My 2002 Ford Airbag light is flashing 46. I believe this is the Drivers side crash senor. I am repairing the left front fender and left front wheel suspension. I have replaced the two air bags and airbag control module. Where is the left front crash sensor?
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I have a 99 Ranger, 3.0 xlt 2WD Automatic 5r55e(???) tranny (i know its the 5). I have the o/d off light flashing. It comes on when fluid gets to op temp. When on it shifts hard into 2nd and hard when it downshifts. No slipping. I have had the truck in the tranny shop for 3 weeks, owner said he re built valve body gasket (didnt work) tried 3 diff used tranny's (didn't work) or so he says. He said it needs to be rebuilt.
I have searched up and down for what it could be, there is so much out there, it only confused me more. If i have to rebuild i will, i think the tranny shop was pulling my leg (for more reasons than mentioned). I have a check engine light on nothing to do with tranny...there is a tranny code, he would not tell me but i will have it checked. Been told could be throttle position sensorl, speed sensor cracked case and a million other things. I have some mechanical abilities, (not too much w/ tranny's) but i can change a few simple sensors.
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Alrighty now. I have a 93 f250 idi Na.
Before problems started: the truck.shifted all 4 gears fine.
Problem(s) begins: Then out of the blue(after I shut it off... even if it was for 30sec, and then turn it on ) it would go into limp mode but if I shut it off and then turn it on again, it would work fine. After about 3weeks/ 600 miles it just went straight to limp mode.
What I did: After 3-4 weeks of that, I replaced the solenoid pack(uncooked both batteries and waited 10 min before I hooked them up) with a eBay special. After that, I had 1st,....., limp 3rd, then it'd slam like check into OD. To get second(which was limp), I'd have to manually drop it in 2 and and let off the pedal before I'd put it in D, to avoid it slamming straight into OD. It would toy with limp and OD from 35mph-45mph. Then it.just went straight to limp mode again.
What I couldn't do because don't know how to solve: I went to go get the codes read and the connector was missing and only one wire was leading to where the connector should've been.
What I did...again: I replaced the control module in the firewall. Then my codes cleared up. And same problem as when I put the new solenoid pack in. But no codes.
What is it still doing????: it's a go round battle between complete limp mode, limp mode and wanting to go into gear(suited to proper mph&rpm), or 1st, limp2&3, and OD.
What I tried: TC lock-up switch.,. And it worked but didn't solve my problem so I scratched that one.
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I have a 2003 ford ranger, it's on it 3 automatic transmission. Each transmission has had the same problem. The OVER DRIVE OFF light starts to flash, and when it shifts from 1st gear into second it shifts really hard, and shifts hard from 2nd to 3rd. When you turn the truck off and start it back up the OVER DRIVE OFF light does not come on. The second transmission lasted almost 30,000 miles. The 3rd transmission only made it 24 miles before the light started to flash. The 2 replacement transmissions have been Ford crate transmissions, installed by a Ford dealer. I have looked around on the Internet and no one has a answer for how to fix it, other then it's time for a new transmission. I think it's a computer issue, but the Ford transmission guy says its not ...
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I am having a problem with my O/D light flashing and my truck shifting hard. Just started out of the blue. After reading a few other topics, I am hoping it is the VSS. Now if only I could find the dang thing. Looking for a diagram, or detailed description on where it's at?
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I have a 03 ranger with a v6/auto trans. it drives fine around town. after i get on the freeway the overdrive light will start flashing. when i get off the freeway it will shift extremely rough. if i turn the truck off and right back on it will be fine again. What could be the problem?
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I have posted on here before about this very issue, thinking it was primarily the transmission. In additon to a hard upshift/downshift (it almost feels like getting a little "kick" from behind while in the truck) I was getting a flashing O/d light, etc.
Since then the tranny died. No shifting at all. I was able to find a usable replacement from another truck (the guy sideswipped a pole, and decided he was done with it, as he tweaked the front frame slightly), which was working fine (before the accident).
I swapped the units out (trans and T/C), and the truck has life again! No flashing O/D light, nice power, and good gas mileage (I went from pre-failure 15mpg to 20mpg now).
However, the kick has never gone away.
So, what next? How much "play" should there be in the driveshaft when the vehicle is parked? I can move it a little bit. Should I consider servicing/replacing the U-joints? Or should I now suspect the rear diff to be the culprit, and how can I best determine this?
Also, can you switch out one rear end for another? If you can, is there any any paricular one that is better to use for towing/hauling as opposed to, let's say, off-roading or city driving?
As for the vehicle in question, it's a 1995 Ranger XLT extended cab with a 3.0V6 and auto trans. I believe it's supposed to have a limited-slip diff, but how do I determine this?
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My 3.0 with 216k miles has developed a rough idle and it progressively got better with new parts and cleanings. On startup it revs up to 2k then back down to 600. If I let it idle for about 8 or so minutes my Check Engine Light starts flashing. If I drive about for a little bit it stops and is just fine.
While the light is flashing I get codes P1000, P0305, P0306, and P0316. Which are OBDII Monitor Testing Not Complete, Misfire detected in Cyl 5, Misfire detected in Cyl 6 and Engine Misfire Detected on Startup (First 1000 Revolutions) respectively. Any other time the truck runs like a dream. Gets 20 city and 29.5 highway.
I cleaned my Mass Air Flow, replaced my Idle Air Control, SeaFoamed throttle body and vacuum lines, brand new coil pack, new wires, new plugs, new fuel filter, I've only ever run 91 octane, Chevron with Techron goes in at every oil change and B12 every other and I just ran 3 bottles of Lucas fuel injector cleaner.
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My Jetta mkiv transmission went into limp mode recently. Took it into shop. They checked it out and they replaced solenoids as well as the TCU. Car still goes into limp mode. It doesn't happen all the time but enough to piss me off. Any thoughts?? Car only has 140000 miles.
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I have been having trouble with the shift solenoid and the trans going into limp mode. I recently replaced the shift solenoid and I now have the same problem but just when the temp outside is above 90 F or when I sit in traffic or idle for more than 3 or 4 minutes. The same code p0758 comes back up. I was thinking maybe the temp sensor?
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