Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Loose Shock On Passenger Side And Rattles When Going Over Bumps
May 4, 2013
Well, I had a friend put together my front brake rotor, now no more pulsating when coming to a stop, very smooth stop, new front brakes, had it aligned as well.. Also replaced the front shocks, however the passenger side came loose and rattles when going over bumps, speed bumps. I popped the hood, bounced my truck and could see it moving from left to right when bouncing front end of truck.
Question is, can i tighten it up myself, I dont have a jack, limited tools, I know, I know but i dont at the moment. My friend that worked on my truck lives a good drive and i hate to waste gas just for tightening something that should have been done but i have too, I will..
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I noticed my 2014.5 camry has a loose driver's window. When rolled down between 2 to 6 inches, it rattles when driving over small bumps If I actually feel the window, it moves about 1/8 inch to the sides when open 2 to 6 inches. I mentioned this at my one year service. The tech showed me other 14.5 SE's they had the same problem only on the driver's window. He said the dealers can't do anything about it because it is how Toyota designed the cars.
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I have a 07 Ranger and the passenger door sounds loose when I hit any bump. Where should I start to make any adjustments on the door?
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I have a 2000 Ranger step side and the bed side is loose and and I'm trying to figure out how to reattach it. It's loose towards the front of the bed on the passenger side right where the actual step is. Is there an attachment point underneath the the plastic step cover?
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1990 Bronco II, 2.9l, auto, 4x4. Was running just fine. Sitting in Park just idling away. All of a sudden, just starts running real rough, ticking, etc.
Towed it home. This morning, started up OK but still running really rough.
While running, pulled spark plug wires one at a time from the drivers side. Had no effect but could tell the wires were sparking as I held them up to metal.
Turned truck off. Drivers side exhaust manifold COLD, passenger side HOT.
This sounds real bad to me. Am I missing something simple that could cause the drivers side of the engine to not work?
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I notice the door rattles a lot now, more noticeably over bumps. Also, I don't really turn my music that loud, but when it is I can hear the rattle as well. Any quick fixs for this? Or would it be easier to get the dealer to try to fix this during my 5000 mile maintenance?
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The back of my passenger seat rattles, resonating when going over bumps (and not weighted with a passenger). I've lifted my back on the driver's seat and it doesn't seem to rattle over the same bumps. How to tighten it up?
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I replaced the front shock absorbers on my Ranger today and I have a question about torquing the upper mounting nut. The problem I have is that the threaded rod that is attached to the top of the shock turns when I put a socket on there and try to torque it to the proper spec. You can put a crescent wrench on the top of that threaded rod(it has flat spots) and tighten the nut some with a wrench, but the crescent wrench wants to slip and round off the top of that threaded rod. So my question is, how do you torque that upper nut without the shock spinning below?
It's a '98 2.5 ltr., 2 wheel drive with coil springs.
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Ok I got the brake pull fixed (I think) on my 92 Ranger 4x2 4.0 extended cab. I still will have to change the driver's side brake hose for prevention and the driver's side caliper just so everything will be new. But it stops straight now with a new brake job, pass caliper and hose on. However, this other problem has been ongoing and it does it on my 1998 Ranger too. It's not the heater core.
I think the evaporator case is filling with water and dripping down under the carpet. So the drain tube must be stopped or the case must have a bunch of leaves stopping it up. But where is this tube you're suppose to check? I don't see a conventional drain tube I only see a blower motor vent tube that doesn't drain to the outside of the car anywhere. I know my 73 Charger has a rubber drain tube that comes out of the evaporator case and drains onto the ground. But where is this one on a Ranger or what else could it be? It's only the passenger side so it's got to be that.
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My truck rattles when going up hills. The higher the rpm,the more it rattles. It sounds like a heat shield shaking. Also, when I accelearate on a flat road, I hear this very light knocking sound.
Motor has 190 000 km and is due for an oil change. Spark plugs and plug wires have been replaced. Engine sounds good when I rev it. No abnormal sounds. So, what would be my issue? Carbon build up?
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2000 ford ranger, 2.5 2wd
Been having a little problem whenever it rains, the carpet on the passenger side gets soaked through and I'm not really sure where the leak is coming from. the only part of the floor that gets wet is the flat part where the passenger would put their feet, but the parts that slope up towards the dash and towards the middle of the cab stay dry. I've pulled up this part of the carpet, and the rubber grommets are intact and in good shape, and there is no rust or anything on the floorboard. from searching here it seems people have had similar problems, one thing being a leak into the seals around the third brake light above the rear window.
a couple things i should mention is that the air conditioning condenser has been broken for about two years, so could water get blocked up and leak in? since its winter here in PA i haven't used the air con since last summer though. I'm not really sure how long the leak has been happening since I've always kept a floor mat over that spot, and the carpet drys in a few days anyway.
Another thing i should mention is that the weather stripping at the bottom of the window on the drivers side door is not perfectly tight and tends to come out of place when the door is closed hard. this has been happening since i got the truck almost three years ago and a new piece was just put in a month ago (the leak had been occurring before the new piece was installed) when the truck was hit and went in for body work. possibly a drain routing to passenger floor? I should add that I'm sure it's not coolant, it has no odor and feels like water.
Might be a good idea to pull up the whole carpet on passenger's side and sit in the cab during the next storm...
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i have an 89 ford ranger custom and my driver side tail light works just fine but my passenger doesnt work when i mash the brake the passenger side brake light wont come on. the parking lights work, turn signals, and hazards work but the brake light. ive checked the wires and replaced the socket and still the same problem so either theres something in the wires that im missing or i dont know what else. any hints?
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Is it what it looks like? Why is it there, to pressure bleed the system through it rather than using a modified MC cap?
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Whenever it rains a substantial amount, like all day I go out to my 92 Ranger and get in and notice the passenger side rubber floor mat has a puddle of water on it. I look under the floor mat and only the center of the carpet there is wet. I see it's getting the edge of that side of the headliner wet and ruining the new headliner had redone. I didn't realize there was water leaking until I got my headliner redone and put back in. It very well could have been leaking causing the headliner cloth to all tear. It's wet along the top passenger side where the grab handle is and the plastic trim. I thought it was the rain gutter on top of the roof so I put in some black silicone and some of it stopped but not all.
So I thought it was still leaking at the front corner so I put more silicone in. Don't know yet if that was what it was for sure but I'll find out tomorrow because it's raining pretty good right now. But just in case where else could it be getting this much water in. If you go through a carwash, or hose it down for awhile, or even drive while it's raining bad it won't get water inside. I'm not convinced it's the rain channel 100% because on the driver's side the putty filling the rain channel on the roof looks worse than the passenger side and there's no water coming in on the driver's side. There is no water coming in the back or on the back carpet or headliner.
I don't see any evidence around the windshield. I can't understand why only the middle of the passenger side carpet is soaked and not the top or under the seat, unless it's just soaking through the rubber floor mat and not drying out. It's getting so frustrating because I can't visibly find any evidence, I have to wait until it rains and then I can't see why it happens. It's ruining my carpet and my new headliner. I want to replace the carpet but want the leak stopped first. Where are common trouble areas on these 92 Rangers for water leakage?
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One last issue with my 2000 B3000 3.0L. The leak seems to be on the left (passenger) side of the water pump very near where the bottom radiator hose connects to it. I can't find any loose bolts. It does not leak while driving the truck or soon after. It has to sit for several hours or overnight before it shows up. There are usually 3 or 4 wet spots where it drips from the water pump to the frame to the driveway. It is small enough that I only have to fill up my coolant tank every 1 or 2 months. Could this just be a small gasket leak? It's been happening for about a year or so I think. I replaced the radiator about 2 years ago. I've been expecting it to get worse or bust loose and have been checking it very often. I've never seen one not leak while running like this-has me puzzled.
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I have a 2005 Ford Ranger Edge 4x4. 4.0, 5 speed. Pretty bare bones truck. On the 4th, my truck was fine... Good deal. On the morning of the 5th, I had a no start issue. No crank, no lights, nada. Figured it's the battery as the one in it was in there when I got it. Got a new one and dropped it in. No difference. This morning I drove me other truck and when I tried to start it this morning I got a clicking in the lower passenger side area. The dash is dark except for the battery and airbag lights, and they're really really dim. This is my newest to me truck and one before this was a 74 Chevy. So computer ones are not my strong point at all.
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Looking to install rear sway bar on 2001 Ex. and noticed a skid plate looking thing in front of passenger side rear shock. Two questions:
1. What is that, and
2. Do I need to remove it to put on sway Bar?
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I've a 1993 2.3 and 1992 4.0 both with a/c systems down. On the 1993 Ranger I tried to loosen the evaporator tube nut to install the new accumulator now it looks like there's going to have to be a new evaporator. Without hardly any pressure that tube just twisted like it was nothing. Someone told me I have to spray it with wd-40 3 days prior to loosening it. I doubt that would even work. Hopefully removing the evaporator case cover under the hood won't be too time consuming because now I've got to. So I don't want to make the same mistake on my 1992 4.0. I need to change the accumulator, orifice tube, flush the evaporator, condenser, install the new hoses, and compressor before evacuating and recharging. Is there anything that makes it a breeze to loosening those evaporator and liquid line nuts without destroying the evaporator?
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I really love this little truck. It's got 129,000 on it, but when I shut it down I can hear the chain clattering on the guides a little. Makes me wonder how much longer it will go before jumping a tooth. The truck has always been well maintained, but is there any ballpark figure when they usually let go? Is it worth it to pull the engine and put in a new chain? I'm fairly new to the Ranger.
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When I hit any type of a bump I can feel instability in my front end. It's like it will shimmy and skip a bit. It only lasts for a split second after the bump. The higher the speed, the worse it is. It's particularly noticeable when I am cornering. If I hit a bump while cornering to the right, the vehicle feels like it shimmys and skips to the left - as I said it only lasts for a split second. It's kind of scary. It's been doing this for a while. I knew I had a bad lower ball joint on the passenger side as it was rattling and squeaking. I went ahead and replaced both upper and lower ball joints as well as the front shocks. The squeaking/rattling is now gone. I had hoped this would also fix my shimmy/skipping problem; however, it didn't work at all. I also notice no improvement in the ride from the new shocks. The shocks are Monroe Gas-Matic LT. These may not be the best money can buy, but I should notice a slight improvement.
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1985 ranger 2.3L TK5 tranny. Shifter was really loose and the tranny finally got stuck in reverse. I have opened up the bottom cover, but am not sure where to move the shift forks to get it back to neutral. I bought a new shifter, but I need to get the tranny back to neutral before I can install it.
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