Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 1995 F350 - Stock Fog Lamps And Towing MPG
Aug 1, 2015
Fog Lamps. How do you turn them on. I have a new (to me) 2005 F-350 Crew Cab Long Box Dually King Ranch 6.0L with all the fixes, S/C Programmer, and a water filter system. 200,000 miles
How do you turn on the Fog lamps and what kind of towing MPG are you getting? My 28' 5th Wheel weighs under 7,000, and my 36 footer triple axel under 12,000.
This sure isn't my old '95 F-350 7.3L single axel XLT Crew Cab 4X4 Long Box.
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I picked up a 2014 F350 CC a couple months ago and have finally driven it in the evening. I went to turn on the first row map lamps and the light did not illuminate. I could turn it on with all of the interior lights, but not just a single map lamp. It also works when the door is opened or the RKE unlocks the truck.
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I know there are tons of threads on this and ive spent hours reading through them. but there are a few differences to mine.
2005 F350 6.0l regular cab long box. 4" lift on Duratec 33". Wheels balanced, driveshafts balanced, all u-joints checked and 1 was replaced (made no noticeable difference), all new brakes and rotors recently(due to wear)
When im not towing, vibration is noticeable between 60-65, but its only slight and i can live with it. Its felt in the seat and not the wheel.
There is also a very low grinding/pulsing feeling that happens as i am slowing down from highway speeds starting at around 10 mph until I completely stop. Its not the brakes and feels driveline to me. Can only be felt at these very low speeds while decelerating/coasting. Feel it in the seat and not the wheel. Not the end of the world but i have a feeling its related to my high speed issues. It is not felt on acceleration and I don't feel it when I am moving around parking lots/etc. ONLY when decelerating from highway speeds.
When I am towing the vibration randomly gets really bad right around 65mph the whole truck shakes and its very uncomfortable. It doesn't matter if I am on the gas or not, hill or no hill. If i slow down to 60 it goes away. It is very rhythmic with road speed (3 pulses with a slight pause)
Been doing a lot more towing lately and its bugging me. I keep falling back on tires, but not quite ready to bite the bullet on new tires as the ones on it still have tons of life left.
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I have a 2011 F350 with the towing package. I got it used as it and it was a northern truck. My towing mirrors won't extend in or out. They fold and unfold just fine. When I press the button to telescope them I can hear the motor running so I know the fuse is good. I took the glass off the mirrors and scraped some salt out of the joints. I sprayed some lube on the joints as well but still no luck. I also tried forcing them but not too much to avoid breaking them.
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1995 7.3L f350 400k mi developed 1poss 2 cyl miss does not change after warm up and will die after 10 min .
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Looking for a tutorial on how to add the fog lamps to an 06 f250 superduty? I have an xlt with the fog lamp switch just need to install the after market fog lamps they are leds.
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How does the 5.4 hold up for towing? Which trans works the best with this motor? I have a 5th wheel car trailer that I pull with a 36 hp tractor and loader on it sometimes. Would the 5.4 be to small or should I just stick with my powerstroke?
I was think of updating my old pickup with a 99 f250 cc 4x4 with either a 5.4 or powerstroke and either a auto trans or 6 spd manual What are your thoughts?
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We have a 99 F250 193,000 miles with a 5.4 and a 5 speed manual with 3:73 gears and we tow a camper that weighs empty 6700 lbs. I knew something was off when we were bringing it home, there was no real umph in the motor. It wouldn't get past 55 in 5th gear on the express way, and just felt as though it was gonna blow up. Its a new to us truck and on paper it should tow this easily. We have a couple of trips under our belt now, and nothing has really changed. With gear and goodies I dont think we're even talking 7500 lbs. I like the truck, and don't really want to get rid of it. With in reason what should I expect to be able to tow and what can I do to better the situation.
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My early 04 runs great until I tow my 24ft rv any distance over a 2 or 3 hour period. When I exit the eway to fuel up or take a break it will stumble and this last time it quit running all together. I use my scanguage, all Temps good while towing never go faster then 65mph, new batteries etc. I had it towed to a local diesel repair shop that I have used before (all the 6.0 problems, oil cooler, egr hpfp, ficm).. When I Went to see them a day later, told me truck started right up and ran great, pulled a few minor codes, none that would have caused my issues. Scanner based testing passed air management, injector balance, all cylinders even.
When they originally scanned, it did show multiple docs for injector contributing, egr insufficient flow, 2 glow plugs and cam/crank sensor, but after cool down again started up and ran great. Truck has 200k on it. Last oil analysis showed internal engine in great shape. I trust this shop and this is not the first 6.0 they have worked on, I am just learning now of taking the rv on the road now. It would be difficult to hook rv up and just runaround to try and replicate what happened and be able to get to any repair facility. Truck is stock with exception of 4 inch exhaust,turbo back, no tuner etc. Also shop and I checked ICP and it is good, quarter volt. It was replaced with pigtail a few years ago.I also have the blue spring upgrade .Just drove to town and back and it runs perfect!
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I like the stock rims on my 03 Super, any success story about this type of rim refurbishing? Or cleaning them up? Something like stripping all that chrome plating off them for a flat universal look? Nothing fancy.
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Recently bought a 2015 f250 xlt.....very impressed with it. Only thing is the wheel feel and look to small. What is the largest size i can run stock? Will 35/12.5 fit on stock 17 wheels or should i just spring for aftermarket rims at the same time? Also exhaust options for the 6.2? Remember, i need load range e!
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To tow a CASE 580L backhoe I believe a 1 ton should be just at its legal limit for towing. My question is do I need DRW's if I've got a gooseneck trailer total weight about 18K lbs (or will single rear wheels be legal)?
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For the first time while towing a bumper pull trailer, started getting a very strong burning smell, only while going up decent size hills. After the climb, smell goes away. Kind of smells like burning rubber or wiring, but that should be constant and not just while up hill.
Checked tranny fluid and it didn't look burnt or low and never saw visible smoke. Have seen this discussed before but with no definitive conclusions. Truck has 150K on it and has long ago lost most of its towing power and the hills also drop the speed to around 45mph from 70 when I hit the big ones.
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I have a 2001 excursion 7.3 4x4 with the 6.0L trans cooler. It is over heating when heavy, uphill towing is under way. I am guessing that my computer has been reprogramed at some point and more fuel is being injected than the radiator is designed to cool. I know my trans cooler is clean. I have tried cleaning the radiator and intercooler with a garden hose. I am considering a hood scoop or some sort of vents in the hood. When it over heats I turn on the heater and open the hood and the engine temps drop in just a few minutes so I believe that the engine needs more cooling or I need to slow down a bit on hills. Any other cheap fixes to get more air in to cool things under the hood more?
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I am wondering IF THERE ARE ANY CONNECTIONS WITH TOWING AND THE ABS LIGHT coming on? I just did 360 mile round trip on I84 and I 81 in western NY and eastern PA with decent hill climbs (some with 6% or so grades) - think coal country. I was pulling 8,000 or so pounds (trailer with a jeep on it).
On the way out, the ABS light came on. I pulled into a rest stop and shut her down for a bit. I had been driving on this terrain for the better part of 2 hours. I restarted and the ABS light turned off for the balance of the trip. It was cold (in the 20's) outside. On the return trip 2 days later, the same thing happened after 90 minutes. I stopped again and restarted the trip which turned off the light. This time, the light came back on 10 or so minutes later.
This is the only occasion when my ABS light has come on.
2005 F250 Crew Cab SuperDuty 6.0L
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So, my 06CC V10 likes to switch to the defrost at times while I'm towing, usually above 65mph, would that be a vacuum issue? Also, the truck seems to always have hot air blowing in to the cab somewhere from the fire wall? Lastly it seems to me that the steering wheel has a lot of play in it (left/right) before the wheels actually turn, should I tighten up the steering box, or is this normal.
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I have a new 2013 F-550 Lariat 200" WB on order. I can and will increase the combination weight on the truck, to make full use of the 19, 500 gvwr. My question is how much will a current F-550 pull on a 5th wheel/gooseneck style trailer before it becomes dangerous? I plan to set the truck up with an 11ft aluminum Eby flat body, with a Holland FW6000 5th wheel placed under the body. I am considering a 35 or 40 ft flat gooseneck.
The combination weight would be changed based upon the axles I choose to put under the trailer. Two 12k axles will give me 44,000 gcwr, two 15k axles will give me 50,000 gcwr, and two 16k axles would give me a 51,000 gcwr. The truck will be able to carry about 10,000-11,000, the trailer needs to take the rest. I am confident that 44,000 gcwr will not be a problem, but the idea of 50,000, or 51,000 really makes me question safety. So, how much have you hauled with a F-550, and a gooseneck trailer?
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Having trouble with vacuum on my '06 CCLB V10. I only lose vacuum while towing, not sure why. Lines all seem like they're fine. I have no issues while unloaded. What could be causing this?
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I have a 2004 F250, CCSB, 6.0L, Fx4, Lariat.
I am trying to replace the passenger side front hub. I either have a bad hub, or I am not installing it properly. I have it installed with the locking hub unlocked and trying to turn the hub, the entire passenger side axle spins. It is also very hard to turn it. I strapped axle, and the hub is almost impossible to turn, with or with out the actual hub installed.
This is the second hub that I installed with the same results. I''m not ruling out bad out of the box, but it is the second one I installed today.
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I'm replacing the passenger side manual hub on my '04 F250. I did a brake job last year and I'm sure I cleaned/inspected/lubed the hubs. I can't seem to get this one out. I have the snap ring out and with a rubber mallet, I can get it wiggle just a little. I've loaded up around where the snap ring went with penetrating oil.
Am I missing something? It's just a snap ring and the hub should just pull out, right?
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How hard is it to install heated towing mirrors on an 01 f-250 7.3L?
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