Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F250 5.4L Just Quit While Off Road And Wouldn't Start Back Up
Aug 28, 2013
I have a super duty with the 5.4 in it. it just quit while off road n wouldn't start back up. pulled it back to camp, wiggled wires around cam n crank sensors n it fired up n stalled numerous times then just wouldn't even fire back up. loaded on trailer n brought home, buddy put his tester on there n said there was no rpm reading so I replaced the crank sensor, it fired up n stalls still. wires seem to be good to crank n cam sensors. don't have a manual to tell me what relays are what.
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Ok truck shut down wouldn't start back. Put fuel filter o. Frame cranks but won't start. Was told has high pressure oil leak in engine?
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My 2000 F250 SD 5.4 AWD's A/C wouldn't blow cold suddenly the other day. I confirmed the A/C relay (engine compartment, 3rd down from firewall)was "clicking" but compressor clutch was obviously not engaging with dash switch on Max A/C and engine running. When I take of the 2 wire connector to compressor to see if it is getting power, the truck won't start..if I disconnect the A/C compressor plug while running, the engine similarly quits. I have never had another vehicle do this on me before..I could unplug the compressor on my Jeep GC, for instance, measure 12+ volts with A/C ON w/car running and no problem with Jeep engine turning off.
I have searched for A/C wiring schematic w/o success. I checked every fuse in cab/engine for continuity since I don't know which ones might deal with A/C..jumped hi/lo pressure switch connectors with engine running/A/C ON w/o compressor clutch engaging. Clutch turns easily, have banged it a few times, and air gap looks good. More bizarrerly, I hooked the compressor to a 12V/ground via its 2 male prongs and didn't get the clutch to engage.
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2001 F250 5.4 ... I'm losing my mind chasing a Gremlin. I've been having mostly intermittent starting issues with my truck. I've had the truck for a little over a year, after someone totaled my previous one.
It occasionally wouldn't start on the first attempt, but it got really bad in the last couple weeks.
I first thought it was a faulty inertia switch or wiring in that vicinity, as at one point after manually tripping and resetting the cutoff switch it would start, UNTIL I put the trim panel back. At this point I think that may have been a coincidence.
I eventually probed the switch and it tests as it should electrically.
I put in a new fuel filter and things were fine for several days, but it acted up again. That time was last Saturday. Got it to start and all was good until tonight. Now it won't go, and I've tried so many times that I can see the battery power is dropping.
Last Saturday I pulled the relays from behind the radio and cleaned 'em up real nice. Also, just to check another variable I swapped the two that matched.
I'm about ready to change the fuel pump, but I've heard so many people say they did that but the problem was something else. Not only will it costs hundreds of dollars, its cold out and we'll have to drop the tank in the driveway.
In addition to the relay, inertia switch and fuse, I have found some mention of faulty fuel pressure regulators causing issues. I'll pry the vacuum line off in the morning to see if I can detect fuel residue on the vacuum side. (There is some noticeable corrosion on the fuel rail in that area).
I REALLY want to make sure I rule everything else out before spending hours under the truck in freezing weather dropping the tank and changing the sending unit out.
On key-on there is a noise from the gas tank, but someone else listening described it as a click but no whirring.
I do hear the relay clicking behind the radio. (Also, I pulled them again tonight and put a meter to them. With 12V on the primary side, they click and the other side shows continuity on diode check, and about .2 Ohm on resistance mode.)
I went through a lot of trouble to get my spare out looking for the fuel control module before finding out my truck is about 3 years too old to have one too. What else to check?
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On occasion, the last 2 weeks, my truck doesn't like to start, sometimes it will start to crank for one second and then quit. i've tried moving my gear shift through the drive selection range (park, neutral, reverse and drive). i just replaced the starter relay on the fender well because i can always start the truck by jumping across the terminals... no joy. So now ( i think) my issue is between the key switch and the starter relay. i replaced the neutral safety switch about 18 months ago.
99 F250 V10 short bed, 123,000 miles ....
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I have a 2000 f250 with auto/manual locking hubs and today the 4x4 quit working. The light comes on the dash and the drive shaft and u joints turn but the front wheels don't turn even when its locked in. I assume its the hubs? And when I am going down the highway about 75 the front starts making a hellacious noise but stops if I slow down is this connected?
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When my truck is parked, I go to the rear tire and shake it back and forth and hear a slight clunking noise from either the tire or rear end. Its like the axle is making the noise?
2000 7.3 Power Strke Super Crew 4x4
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I have a 2000 f 250 that will not start... I have replaced many parts all electronic sensorsm the past week i have spent in the neighborhood of 1800.00 on this truck. Cps, icp, idm, ebps, fuel filter, new oil, hpop level good, gpr, all new need starting........
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I just bought a 2000 F250 SD, 4x4, 5.4, Quad Cab. I drove it off the lot, stopped to put air in the tires, jumped back in and it wouldn't crank. All of the dash lights worked fine. Tried jumping at the starter solenoid and got nothing. Got under the truck and jumped it off the starter, vroom, fired right up. Replaced the starter solenoid and had no issues for about 2 hours. Then it did it again. This time it wouldn't start at all. I towed it back to the dealer and they had it for 3 weeks.
Then yesterday I called and they said it was done. Picked it up, drove to the barber shop, got my hair cut, came back out and it did the same thing AGAIN. After jacking around with the shifter and turning the wheel back and forth 100 times it started. The key is kind of hard to turn sometimes in the ignition, so I'm thinking that the ignition cylinder needs to be lubed real good, but that shouldn't stop it from cranking the motor over, right? I was going to swap out the ignition switch, but I don't know if that will do any good either.
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My 2000 F-250 V10 won't start has a new alternator and new starter all it does is Click when I turn the key?
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I have f250 1995 idles but when I press gas it quits....
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2000 f250 V10 ...
Problem: More often than not when the key is turned to run (?), prior to engaging the starter, the fuel pump does not turn on for its 5 seconds. I have installed a fuel pressure tester gauge to watch the fuel line pressure. It was a little shaky to diagnose because if the line had pressure/fuel from the previous run it will start and run a short time and then die from lack of fuel. Unless the fuel pump activates when the key is turned to run, prior to full start, then there will be no fuel coming from the pump. No start. If you work the key to run a few times until the pump engages its good to go. The truck has never died while driving, once it gets that initial pump activation it runs good until the next start up cycle. When the pump does work it builds up to good "book" pressure and holds it at 39 when the engine is shut off.
We have put off changing the fuel pump for obvious reasons but can not see how it could be the problem since it has never quit once after we get it started. Are we wrong? We know the fuel shut off is on as it will run. We have changed the key lock tumblers, the ignition switch and the fuel pump relay. (behind the radio). Next up is to re-seat all the fuses and relays in the main fuse panel box under the hood. I just read that today on FTE. Is there a test we can do or some engine codes we need to look for? This problem is getting old fast.
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While driving down the road the truck will just cut off. We wait a few mins and start it again can drive a few miles and it cuts off again. we have replaced the ignition coils and it is still doing this. No codes are coming up to get any idea what it can be?
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I just picked up a 05' F450 Super-Duty it had the rear seat removed and the rear wall, under the window is bare metal. I have all kinds of road noise and dust coming in through the two vents on the back wall. How to fix this?
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My 2000 F-250 6.8L V10 has a choppy idle during the first 30 or so seconds after a cold start up in the morning then it smooths out and drives perfectly. If I were to place the truck in gear during the choppy idle, it would not die and throttle response would be fine.
I cleaned the MAF sensor and checked the PCV elbow for cracks (no cracks). It idles at about a 1000 rpm during a cold startup then drops to about 750 rpm according to the dash tachometer. The truck has 187,000 miles on it.
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I recently caught up on some maintenance with my truck, changed the turbo pedestal seals, replaced both batteries, brakes, e-brake cable etc and installed new 10k hid headlights. its a single cab 250 with a 7.3 and zf6 4x4 with 133k. a couple days ago I turned on the headlights and the truck died, restarted no problem and would die the next 5 times I tried to turn them on, then it worked fine. yesterday I got in my truck to leave for work and got no wait to start light, no glow plug chatter, no fuel pump running. turns over just fine but no fire.
I got a ride to work and tried it when I got home, fired right up. I pulled the pCM, checked it out, no weird smells and my TS chip wasn't corroded or anything like that, worked fine. drove to 711 to get a 6 pack and it did the headlight thing again. I removed the HIDs because this all started after I installed them and reinstalled my silvanias and it didn't die when I turned them on. this morning went to leave for work, same no start condition. I disconnected both batteries for 30 seconds to reset anything and same problem. I was about ready to light it on fire this morning.
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I have a 2000 f250, 5.4l triton v8 that cranks like crazy, but won't start. When I spray a little starter fluid in it it will run until the spray wears off. Brand new battery and full gas tank. it does have check engine light on dash, probably from the o2 sensor as the exhaust has almost completely rusted out. Also on a side note the cruise control will not engage.
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Ok here goes I dive a 1999 f250 super duty with 5.4 it's automatic 4x4. I dropped my kids off at school and was headed home turned a corner when the oil/temperature light flashed and the truck just quit. I tried restarting it and it just clicked like the battery dead. Had my better half come and jump it. Did not work it would only roll about a half Revolution and stop. So we towed it home where I put the battery on the charger. Now I can't even get it to roll over. And yes there is oil and it did not over heat.
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I have a 2003 f-250 5.4l and the cruise control quit. If you press the on and coast it will honk the horn so I am thinking switches on the steering wheel or the clockspring. I need to test those. Everything else works fine....
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It's an 02 f250 4x4 crew with 7.3, 6 in lift and 35 in tires. It has all ways wandered a little bit and I just accepted it. I changed everything in the steering from ball joints, tie rods and drag links less than 2000 miles ago. Everything still seems good and tight. Recently it has gotten a lot worse so I checked again and everything seems to be tight. Where to or what to check next? It's to the point I don't feel safe letting my wife drive it and I don't enjoy driving it.
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I have a 99' f250 I purchased a few months ago. Here's what happened. Today I was driving down the road and it started to surge. I pulled over and shut the truck off. When I went to start it, the motor turned over slow for a sec and then clicked. When I put a jump pack to it, it fired up. I took it home with the jumper still hooked to it and checked voltage. The alternator was throwing 33.4 volts!! I went to the auto parts store and bought a new battery and alternator. Now the battery shows 11.7 volts steady. The alternator still reads 33.4. Also, if I unplug the positive lead while it's running, the truck shuts off. And one more thing. If the key is off and I reconnect the positive lead, I can hear the fuel rail pressurize. What is going on? I hate electrical gremlins.
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