My truck is a 2000 7.3 doesn't smoke on start up but once it gets to temperature it does. I'm not going through any antifreeze, just oil and it's coming out the exhaust. The truck still runs great starts right up every morning without being plugged in. Any opinions?
View 3 RepliesMy Uncle has a 1999 F250 with 260K miles. Engine, fuel and exhaust systems have never been touched. Saturday he pulled his 26 foot horse trailer throughout WA with no problems. Sunday he went to take the truck to town and noticed that he suddenly had a lack of power, and some smoke (possibly blue-ish) coming from the exhaust. He has been told "injectors" by a couple people, "turbo" by some, and "injector harness/valve cover gasket" by others.
View 3 RepliesOur 2009 F-250 in our signature with 53,000 miles on it recently had a transmission episode that has me concerned. We were towing our fifth-wheel camper which weighs around 9000 lbs. We were nearly home on a 275 mile trip. All interstate at speeds of no more than 67 MPH. As I was in the process of exiting the interstate on the last 12 miles of our journey I noticed some smoke coming from underneath the truck. I immediately stopped and got under the truck and noticed transmission fluid running down from the top of the transmission and dripping onto the crossover exhaust pipe.
I let the truck idle for several minutes and it seemed to stop dripping fluid, or at least it had slowed considerably. I took off again being very careful not to gas it up at all, if fact I was very light footed with it from there on home. The ScanGauge II showed the transmission temp. had never got above 186 all the way home and it was at about 185 at the time I saw the smoke. The ambient temperature was around 90 and the truck had not labored at all on the way home. It would do the usual down shifting at overpasses but since I installed the 4.30 gears it doesn't do all that much shifting with the cruise control set on around 65-66 MPH.
I couldn't see where the oil was coming from but it was toward the top of the transmission. The transmission acted perfectly normal in every way even at the time of the dripping.
As I said, I took it plenty easy all the remaining 12 miles home and the tranny temp. dropped down to around 181. I parked the truck and camper on our asphalt driveway and saw no sign of drippage after it was parked. I fired the truck up the morning after this incident and drove it pulling the camper until the transmission temp. got to 185 and came home and parked it on the asphalt again and saw no signs of any leakage.
I checked the transmission fluid level per the instructions in the owners manual and it appeared to be right up to full. I don't believe it was over full. It smelled like it was new without a hint of any burnt odor. I bought the truck with 31,000 miles on it and had the dealer at which I purchased it change the transmission fluid at that time so it should be in very good condition.
I am going into a very busy time with this truck and can't chance any down time if it can be avoided. According to the research I did at the time I purchased this truck the automatic transmissions Ford used in the 2009 F-250 are pretty much bullet proof if maintained properly and not overly abused. This one has been well maintained and I've NEVER abused it. I wanted a manual trans. at the time I bought this unit but could not find one anywhere. I'm not a big slush-a-matic fan and I sincerely hope this one doesn't make me realize my long standing fear of slush-a-matic transmissions.
2011 6.7... My truck is throwing code P2033 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor. What is the part number for that sensor?
View 6 RepliesGot a 99 V10 blowing a lot of oil out of the exhaust pipe, to the point where I could fog the neighborhood, cylinder number 10 had original spark plug dirt down in the hole know one wanted to clean it out so I did put new plug and coil now smokes a lot, also truck has 173559 miles, did a half diesel half used motor oil flush tonight, wanted to go for 15 minutes only made it to 14 to much smoke, will put fresh oil in tomorrow, what could be the problem, piston ring blow by, intake manifold leak, burning what I think is oil could be coolant, head gasket no bubbles in oil or antifreeze and antifreeze and or oil are not mixing. Is it easier to pull the heads off with pulling the motor which looks fairly easy or leave it in the truck.
View 2 RepliesI've owned my 2012 F-250, 6.7L for less than a week and it has a check engine light. The local dealer can't see me for a week, and I need to leave town next week.
I went to AutoZone to have the codes checked and this is what they came back with:
P2033
Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 2
P2031
Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 2
Can I drive on these codes, or should I park the truck until Ford can see me?
2001 F250 5.4L - I recently had my muffler changed and the pipe flange on the tailpipe up by the exhaust manifold welded back on. I haven't driven my truck much this past summer so when I took it in to get the muffler fixed the front caliper got temporarily stuck like it tends to do. It eventually freed up but in the meantime I noticed a hot oil-like smell coming from my truck from time to time. I chalked it up to either the new muffler or maybe it just smelled hot and it was instead the front brake caliper still being stuck. One day I'm driving down the interstate and I start uphill. I noticed smoke behind me and pulled over. The brake was not overheating so I got underneath the truck.
The smoke was rolling off of the exhaust pipe all the way down it all the way up near the manifold but mostly around the muffler. The smoke quickly went away while I was under the truck. I noticed it doing this only while the engine is under a load like going uphill. Just driving around town nothing is noticeable. When it does smoke I lose power. Once I slow down for awhile and then gradually speed back up things seem okay. I checked the oil.
Normally I don't lose a drop but this time I was a quart low but the oil on the stick was clean. It's been awhile since I had my oil changed but very little mileage on this change (my truck has sat awhile). My truck doesn't leave a drop of oil under it when it sits. From what I read you can remove the radiator cap and start the truck to see if it's a blown head gasket. At least that one of the things I can check easily without actually taking the plugs out even though the oil looks clean. The radiator has not lost any fluid. The transmission fluid is also good. It's been doing this for about 3 weeks.
I still drive it to and from work (about 15 miles round trip) everyday but I take it easy on the acceleration and stay on city streets. I looked into the EGR system online for my truck and instead found an EVAP purge solenoid/valve in its place on the passenger side. I don't have any service lights on the dash. I went to Autozone and had them scan it but nothing came up. I read somewhere that either the purge solenoid assembly or EGR (I can't remember) can burn up the board if it goes bad resulting in no code showing up.
I recently changed a vacuum valve out that went bad that controlled the vacuum chamber used to operate the hubs on the 4WD. The 4WD is now operational again. Assuming the head gasket is not blown, what to check for next?
I have a serious issue with my 2004 F250 6.0. Pulling a trailer something under the hood sounded like an explosion and lost power and boost. The truck started blowing black smoke from the tail pipe. I could see no psychical damage to anything under the hood. There was absolutely no power but managed to cripple home. What happen.
View 14 RepliesI have a 06 6.0 Powerstroke 6 Speed every time I get on it or even try to get going I have no power and I have pure black smoke blowing out the exhaust somebody told me to change the fuel filters which I did which they were pretty nasty then after I did that I seem to still have the same problem so then they told me to check the EGR valve put injector cleaner in it to clean the injectors which I have not done a gr or injector cleaner yet just wanted to know, what it could be or what I can do to prevent the black smoke I have no power either...
View 1 RepliesI had a post a couple of months ago about this E350 van I purchased with the 7.3. It would leave me stranded every few weeks and I replaced the injector oil pressure sensor and the camshaft position sensor. This truck has a intermittent running problem that cannot be pinned down to hot or cold.
It runs and idles well but sometimes during acceleration it will start to flatten out and smoke out the exhaust. Giving more accelerator pedal powers through the flat spot and the truck runs smooth. It does not do it every time. It does it hot or cold, wet or dry, city or highway, If this was a gas engine I would be replacing the fuel pump or checking a fuel starvation issue but the white smoke tells me that it has unburned fuel.
A cylinder contribution test passes fine. I monitored engine data with a Snap On Verus pro and compared oil pressures with another 03 7.3 I have and they are too close to the same. It starts fine, no issues there. It may take off great one time and buck and smoke the next. I swapped out the throttle position sensor with the other 7.3 and no change. I swapped out the injector control module and no change.
I've thought about injector Orings but I would think the problem would be consistent. I've changed engine oil, checked fuel pressure, changed fuel filter, and drained the fuel system to be sure no water is in the separator. This engine was rebuilt about 30k miles ago. If you floor the accelerator in park it will rev up, flatten out, smoke and buck for about 2-3 seconds, and then take off like normal. I pulled a trailer with it a couple of days ago and wasn't impressed at all. I have a 6.5 GM that seems to have more power than this.
I thought maybe a sticking injector and I added a half gallon of two cycle oil to the fuel to see if that might work. It hasn't. It just seems like it is flooding at a certain rpm and clears itself after a couple of seconds. There are no codes being thrown in the pcm. I am at a loss.
I have a 2008 6.4L F-250 and occasionally when I come to a stop I can see a faint white smoke coming out from under the truck and the hood. The smoke has a heavy diesel exhaust smell. When I step on the pedal nothing comes from the exhaust and it does not happen all the time. What is going on?
View 2 RepliesMy 2000 f250 7.3 4x4 with a 4r100 tranny. I was towing my boat home and noticed the temperature rising from roughly 140 all the way to 160 over a short distance. As soon as I pulled up to the house I noticed I was dumping my transmission fluid. Went to a mechanic and he fixed the leaking on the transmission by replacing some seals and changed out my rear main seal while the tranny was out.
I also went ahead and replaced the torque converter so I would not have to do it in the future. went to pick up my truck and noticed that on the way home the temperature was still rising. On a normal day here in Texas my tranny temperature was about 125 While towing it would creep up to about 143. Now, just getting home it got up to 180. What could be causing the temp to run this high and keep climbing?
I just bought a 2002 v10 crew cab, everything great form the first 3 months, but then my coolant sensor stopped working, changed it, and the same thing! Only works a couple of times, and the truck started to rough idle a little, and now I have black smoke coming out of the exhaust!
View 3 Replies2001 F250 5.4 with 160K miles. My wife "borrowed" my truck as she drove away, I saw white smoke coming out of the tailpipe. The kind you see in cold weather. Its was 75 degree in Texas this morning, so what could that be? There is antifreeze in the reservoir and I recently changed the oil and there was no water in it.
View 5 RepliesI was towing a 16' Carmate Box trailer (empty), in tow/Haul mode, through the mountains on the PA turnpike. On an uphill section, 70 mph, suddenly blue smoke was pouring out of the back of the truck. I immediately slowed to about 50mph and pulled over at the next opportunity, about a mile. The bottom of the trans pan was coated with fluid, mostly on left side and the exhaust crossover pipe was smoking. Gauges were all normal. Ambient temp was 90F.
I drove another 40 miles, mostly about 60 mph. No problems. When I started climbing in elevation, and hit 70mph again, the smoke started again. I pulled over again and crawled under to fine the crossover pipe in flames. I grabbed a rag and beat out the flames. Fluid was red. Gauges were normal again. Once I disconnected the trailer, I can find no leaks. Snugged pan bolts. I cannot duplicated the problem without the load and speed.
Background: 2005 Crewcab, 5.4, 5R110 trans, 3.73. 416,000 miles, I have towed about 50K miles of that. Trans always ran great. Never replaced.
I have a 2003 Superduty with 193k miles that is bone stock. I sold the truck to a friend and when he decided to not pay the remaining balance on the truck, I took back ownership. The truck was having heating issues and it set at a mechanic shop for nearly 2 years waiting for a diagnosis on the heating issue. Fast forward to the present and I now have the truck at my home. Heating issue was the radiator but this is no longer a concern. When I went to pick up the truck from the mechanic, the truck started fine. Every other day for the last 4-5 weeks I would start the truck with no problems.
I get the truck tagged and start driving it on a daily basis. I've put several hundred miles on it but the more I drive it, the less it wants to start. Now it's to a point where it only cranks but won't start. I can take a gas rag and hold it in the intake and eventually it will start. Once it's running, it runs great and has no issues starting. But once it sets for 3-4 hours, it won't start without some sort of assistance.
While trying to find the issue, I've found and repaired 2 fuel leaks and in the process I replaced fuel filter, air filter, replaced glow plug relay, replaced batteries, replaced CPS. Fuel pump is working fine. I've tried the ICP test and doesn't make a difference.
The glow plug light or WTS light works so don't think its the GP. The CES light was on. Had it scanned and it was the air bag sensor so no support from the CES.
While I was working on it yesterday and after cranking on it for 5-10 minutes, it would act like it was going to start and black smoke would be coming out from the exhaust. I let it set to cool the starter it fired up like it had no issues.
So I was going to get the truck washed, but 2 blocks down the road smoke out of the engine bay.
Pulled over popped the hood and the alternator is on fire. Extinguished it self out but the burnt electrical smell.....sheesh..
Anyways, could I potentially drive the truck to the dealer, or will it catch on fire again????
I have a 2004 F250 with 180K miles on it. About a year ago my truck would smoke pretty bad so I got on here and found I needed to take my FICM off and do some touch up soldering on it in a few places. Did that and everything has been fine until this past weekend when I noticed a little bit of whiteish smoke. Could it be the FICM again or something else. still have power and all gauges are normal. What to check next. Also, I do not have a scangauge, just the stock gauges.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford F-350 V10 Triton that is currently not running. It all started when I was going to work at 7:00am it just shut off in the middle of the road. I had someone to take out of the road and found out one of the fuses had blown. It was replaced and not even a mile down the road it died again, luckily next to Orielly's. They came out and did a test and found out it was coil 10. I purchased and installed a new one and went down the road only to have it die again. I replaced the fuse again, and went back to Oriellys and just as I was backing into the parking spot it died, this time smoke coming from under the hood. The brand new coil had caught on fire but I extinguished the flame and got the coil unplugged before any damage happened. Replaced the same coil and it ran fine until I got home, let it idle and it was fine. Then, two days later I started it and it died, again smoke coming from under the hood but no flames or fire. Now cylinder 10 does not fire any more. What the cause is?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 f250 7.3 powerstroke. I bought the truck with 218000 miles on it, I have only put 1000 on it. I have had some issues with. The cps went out of it, and it wouldn't start until u replaced it. I have a Ts chip on it and cold air intake. It will not start after a cold night, it starts fine if I plug it in. It also lopes, or misses no matter the temperature outside. Also, it will blow a steady flame when you get on it. Finally, it also gets hot, smoke will come from the turbo after driving it for a while, no matter how you drive it.
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The problem with my truck is not that its regen'ing too often, the problem is that its STUCK in regen cycle. For the past 4-5 days my truck has been going into regen about 1-2 min after i start driving it, every single time i start her up. If i start my truck in the morning and let it warm up for a few min, i come out and my truck is idling higher then normal and has an increased exhaust smell, but when i aply the brake the idle goes back to normal. Then i start driving up the street and BAM "cleaning exhaust filter" message comes up and the and immediately the sound of the exhaust and induction changes and it sounds like sputtering/knocking.
Sometimes the the engine will flutter in decel or shutdown. HORRIBLE gas mileage, Reduced engine response and power, and white smoke is cooler temps. Basically all of the normal signs of a regen cycle, am i wrong? Im pretty sure its either a dpf sensor or possibly something wrong with the DPF? I haven't had one problem with my 2010 besides an egr valve and she has 167k miles and is completely stock and im very happy with my truck! 2010 6.4L