Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F250 - Replacing Headlights?
Sep 14, 2016
I just replaced the head lights on my 2001 f250 it had the sealed beam one-piece glass headlights and I replaced those with regular headlights and when I went to get bulbs I found out after I get home the connector is different from the new bulbs. the new bulbs fit correctly but I can not hook plug them the plug has 3 connectors that have two connectors level and one is higher than the other two and the new bulbs the three prongs are level.
My question is. is there another bulb that will fit and plugin and if so what is the part number? is there a adapter that I can get that will allow the factory plug to work? or will I need to cut the old plug off and splice a new connector on?
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I am having some trouble with my 4R100 overheating.
Truck is a 2001 F250 XLT 7.3L with 244k miles on it. According to previous owner, the transmission was replaced around 185/190k but there was no paperwork to prove it.
I recently had a leak from one of transmission lines coming into the bottom of the radiator (the one on the passenger side). I replaced it and topped off the little bit of fluid that leaked out. Last weekend I installed a temp sensor in the transmission and hooked it up to my pillar gauges. The first few days driving with it, the temp was at/around 180 degrees, 25-30 degree outside air, unloaded on the highway averaging 70-75mph.
Today on the way home, the temp got to 180 after 35-40min of driving then continue climbing. I pulled off the highway after 1.5hrs and the temp was almost at 210 degrees. I let it idle for 5-10min and the temp didn't change. I turned it off and let it sit for 15 min. Upon starting it back up, the temp had dropped to 180. I continued driving and the temp climbed back up to 210 within 35 minutes. (65-75mph, 24 degree outside temp, unloaded). Once off the highway I averaged 35-45mph on the back roads to my house. The temp started to drop back towards 180 degrees.
Before I start throwing money at it, and installing a 6.0 cooler etc. I am thinking there is something else wrong here. I am going to look at new lines and replacing/repairing the bypass valve on the transmission. I am driving 2hrs to work each way and thats when the temp really starts to go up. The fluid doesnt smell burnt, its still nice and red. I am going to try and flush the lines this weekend and see if something is plugged/caught. I ordered an inline filter today and will put that in with a new hose from the transmission to the radiator (old one is rusted).
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My 1999 F250 won't start ever since I replaced the o ring where the dipstick meets the oil pan. Started it when I was finished it ran for a minute and shut off, the truck was on a slope my low fuel light was on. I have it sitting on the flat now but still not starting but turns over?
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I plan on replacing the brake lines on our 1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty. The rear line blew out right by the hose, on the framerail. All five lines, all five hoses. What size lines? Looks like front two are 3/16", rear two over the axle are 3/16", and the rear line in the frame is 1/4".
We are removing the bed (2013 bed) to make things easier. I am thinking fuel lines and parking brake cable while the bed is off. I have stainless steel hoses from KLM performance and I am also planning on replacing the rear rubber hoses. Obviously I'm using nickel copper line. There shouldn't even be an option for other brake line.
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I have a 2012 F250 King Ranch with the FX4 package. I have a goose neck ball and have recently bought a 37' fifth wheel. The rear of my truck sits a touch lower than the front and anytime I'm hooked to a trailer it looks to be squatted way down. It actually is dropping maybe 3". I am looking to replace the shocks which are Rancho's as I have 55k miles on. I'm wondering about shock types, air bags, springs??? Just don't know what my best option is.
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I'm looking at replacing the valve cover gaskets on my 02 f-250, it's a 7.3L.
Looking at them on line there are many different brands. What have you used on your 7.3L, and which has worked the best for you?
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Two weeks ago did a road trip to NH from RI and i heard a slight dragging only at low speed (10-15mph) in my left rear tire. figured the caliber was dragging a little, it was. Before arriving in NH the brake light came on. Long story short i get back to RI and the left side noise gets worse and starts to lock up. I finally replace the rotor which was warped, pads, and caliper which was bad.
Was driving it same day and still here the same dragging and screeching noise and the brake light is still on. On my way home the left side locked up at low speed without hitting breaks and slid the truck, mid you all parts are new on that side. I am not sure what it could be at this point something in side the axle?
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I have a 2002 ford f250 superduty and when I have my headlight switch set to auto to come on when it gets dark they will for awhile and then my headlights will turn off for no reason.
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I bought an hid kit for my 2005 f250 the dog lights work fine but the headlights won't stay on. They come on for about 30 seconds then shut off. How to fix this. I've swapped the ballast with the fog light ballast and it does the same thing.
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2009 F250 lariat. While driving down the highway my wipers came on when stalk was in the off position. They would not shut off. Had to remove the relay to get them to shut off. Also, during middle of a sunny day the headlights would temporarily come on and shut off when it was in the automatic position. They would not come on if I put it in the off position though. Since both the wipers and high beams are part of the multifunction switch is it likely that the switch has gone bad vs. a more major issue with the computers. No other issues identified.
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I just bought a 2004 f-250 checked everything out except for the headlights ... when I tried them the didn't work except on flash to pass ... I searched around and found some possible solutions and tried them .... first I checked the bulbs and all the fuss they are good then I bought a headlight switch ....that fixed the problem for about two days then they quit working again... so I took it back and got a new one ... when I first put it the new one in it didn't work then it started working a day or so later and I hadn't done anything to make it work... then a couple days later it went out again ... I have swapped the switch out several times and have had no luck I replaced the multi function switch and still no low beams ...
All the fuses are still good I have checked the wiring visually as much as I can see and see nothing... buddy of mine checked the pins on the headlight switch connector they are all good .. Read something last night about a guy whos alternator was going bad and caused his not to work checked mine its putting out around 13.4 at idle .. is there a relay somewhere ... my book doesn't show the function of any of the relays so I don't know ...not a mechanic but a pretty decent parts changer. Trying to fix this myself . Next week have to take the truck to pull the camper ..
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Headlights work well w/ ignition switch off. High/low/passing all ok. When I turn the ignition switch on, there's a strange wheezing sound for a second.
When the ignition switch is on, there are no headlights.
What's the wheezing sound? Why does the power to the switch quit with the key on? The more I work on modern trucks, the more I like my 1968 f-250.
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Ok I have a p1316 code so I was told to change valve cover gaskets so I did. Now starts for 4 sec and dies, what is going on....
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I'm replacing tow mirrors on my 2004 F250 with 2008 mirrors. Both are factory Ford mirrors. Need wiring diagram since connectors and wires are different. They both have power mirrors, turn signals, heated mirrors, but are not power retract or fold.
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I have a 2001 F53 chassis Coachmen Mirada. My low beams, and only the low beams, blink off and back on ea. 2 seconds, and the low beams stay on with highs on. I have confirmed with a friend who has the identical model that the lows should go off. The dip is momentary and happens regardless of anything else. The highs don't blink and do go off when they should.
The headlight switch seems to work normally. The multi function switch does turn the highs on and off as it should. Both sides behave the same. The Daylight running lights are separate and work fine. The high and lows are 2 different bulbs. Where do you think I should start checking? With previous cars I was led to believe that a headlight that goes off meant a breaker being tripped due to a short or bad breaker. I can't find a breaker to check.
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Okay, so the truck is a 2001 F-250 Crew-Cab 7.3l PSD with about 300k on the clock. For a while now the A/C would start out okay when you started the truck and it would blow cold for about 10 minutes then it would start to fade away and get hot. Then later it might get cold again. You could turn the A/C off for a minute or so and turn it back on and it would be cold again.
Took it to a shop and they drained the system and recharged it and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Well, it's still doing it. We were starting to thing maybe it was an electrical issue with the cold/hot switch on the dash until a recently noticed a pattern. If it had gone hot and I got heavy on the accelerator (revving above 2500 RPM), it would get cold and keep blowing cold for 3-5 minutes. So the trick to staying cool as of now is just to hammer down every few minutes.
I read the HVAC FAQs, and it seems like the issue maybe with a slipping compressor clutch. Sound right? Also if that's the issue, it says the solution is: Excessive A/C clutch gap due to clutch wear. Usually, the problem can be resolved by removing a shim from the clutch to bring the gap back into the desired .014-.030 gap. What exactly do I have to do? Where and what are these shims?
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My truck: 2001 F250 V8 Triton Automatic 4x4
Problem: 4x4 won't engage
Symptoms: No dash lights....nothing happens when I turn the 4x4 switch. When I start the truck I hear what sounds like a motor (transfer case motor maybe?) trying to switch (even though my dash switch is on 2WD)... It tries three times and stops.
What I've done: Checked fuses ...they appear ok to me
I don't have a maintenance manual yet ...
The 4x4 used to work up until about 2 weeks ago. Started having a hard time getting it to go into (and out of) 4x4 and then it just stopped all together.
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I have been leaking oil on one of my work trucks. I do not know what the part is called or named. the leaks seems to be coming from above or behind a part that the driver side motor mount. As you can see in the image, the part has a sensor and a concave dip that runs along the middle of it. Well, I stuck my fingers behind that and it has a dip on the other side too which face up and that dip was puddled with oil. I need to know what that part is called or named or what is directly behind it that can be causing the leak. I hope its just a gasket and it is not cracked.
Part that is leaking behind. 2001 Ford F-250 Super Duty V10
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I have an 01 f250 superduty bed is rusted what is the difference on a 04 f350 superduty dually bed to mine? Are they finished under the dually fenders?
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Having trouble with the truck going into gear. It started by having to put the truck in first and manually shift until in drive, once it finally engaged and would drive normal. But now im having trouble with going into gear at all. What could be the issue????
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2001, F250, Lariat, Super Duty, 7.3 engine with towing package.
It ran seemingly perfect when I parked it and it sat for maybe 10 days to 2 weeks and wouldn't crank. Battery is fine and fully charged. Glow plug heaters work OK. Engine spins really fast, almost like it had no compression. (Not sure though) Temperature in the 30's -50's. I did some research on line and decided to change the Cam Positioning Sensor (CPS). Didn't work, still won't crank. I originally tried my Cheap Harbor Freight OBDII . (Don't waste your money, IMO). What should I troubleshoot next/ or try.
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