Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 - F250 V10 Transmission Malfunction - Only Goes Into Park / Reverse?
Feb 7, 2015
I have a 2001 F250 V10,
So the truck drove fine yesterday had zero issues... I used my auto start as I do every morning in this cold weather, get into the truck and shift from park to drive and its like it does nothing. I can free rev in N,D,1,2. Reverse works great.
I tried switching from 4wd to 2wd, no change. Reverse works just fine. No noises, codes or anything, just doesn't want to engage...
I am assuming I have a 4R100. Could something electrical cause this? I am thinking its mechanical, but hoping someone has ran into this before.
Literally no way I would have known the trans was going bad... It's always worked fine. Tranny fluid is full, I tried unplugging the battery waiting and plugging back in, no dice.
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I was driving my 1999 F250 5.4 Triton last week, after noticing a thump while backing my small boat down the ramp (sounded like u joint) I went and parked. When I got back in the truck it starts fine but when I shift into reverse, it's staying in drive, anywhere I put my shift lever..... It's in drive! I even noticed that even all the way up into park it feels like it's in drive, but with something holding it back. If I give it gas while in park it will go forward! I have tightened the two torx screws under dash, pulled cable off and tried shifting by hand (clicks like switching gears, but still in drive) pulled pan, everything looked good there, fluid is nice and red, smells good, no metal in pan? It's the 4r100od tranny.
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Iv been chasing an electrical issue with my park lights staying on. Even with the #8 fuse out and the GEM unplugged the lights stay on.
They are being powered by the #4 fuse circuit that power mirrors, glove box light and under hood light are on. With that fuse pulled the park lights go off.
Now I have to figure out how the 2 circuits are connected.
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My 2001 f250 on occasion will roll a very uncomfortable distance when I put it in park. Not all the time, but enough to concern me. It will roll a good 12-18" before the park rod or what have you engages. Doesn't seem to be affected by grade. Matter if fact it has always done it on just slight grades. Nothing like a boat ramp. It rolls enough that if someone had been front or back it would have bumped them.
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My '01 7.3 is having some transmission problems, My O/D light is flashing. Trying to go after stopping at a light is a difficult, it drives very sluggish, like its not in overdrive. Scanned it and got three codes P0732, P0720, P0503. I replaced the ABS/VSS on the differential and the problem still exist.
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Any info if the "Aux" terminal on the trailer harness wiring on '01 F250s is for reverse lighting? I'd like to put some on my stock trailer. Also, is the "12v" terminal feed switch operated or hot always?
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty 5.4 Triton motor with a Transmission Leak. I have drained the Transmission, replaced the Transmission pan gasket and filter. The auto parts store also had me purchase the Torque Converter bearings/seal along with enough transmission fluid and a bottle of Lukas Transmission fix. Do I really need to replace the bearings/seal if I have everything else already ?
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I was driving my sons 99 f250, 7.3, today, pulled into a friends driveway, put the truck into park, turned it off and got out. 5 minutes later out of nowhere the truck jumped out of park into reverse like someone was in it stomping on the gas then the breaks then the gas, then the breaks. This truck took off in reverse with such force if there was someone behind it they would have been seriously hurt. I was parked on completely flat ground. While this was happening it sounded like it was trying to start and clicking very loud. It is an automatic.
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Today I ran into a person I use to work with and was informed he had bought almost the same truck as mine. He also informed me that his has spent most of the winter in the shop. Reason being he claimed the transmission had a sensor that malfunctioned when it's cold out. This sensor lets the truck turn over but it blocks the truck from starting. Now it has got to 10 below zero only once this winter so far, my truck is kept outside, no problem yet.
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I have an issue with a truck I just bought. Sometimes, it doesn't go to Park when I shut it down. In order to start it I have to sometimes put it in neutral. Once in a while it will start when in the Park gear. What I should look into to fix it? It doesn't seem like a big deal.
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I've got a 99 F-250 6.8L V10 manual 4WD with no speedometer or odometer. The ABS and MIL lights are on. Code is P0500 - VSS malfunction.
This started when the previous owner hooked up some large LED backup lights to the factory wiring. Something smoked under the dash. He then moved them to a relay-switched +12V feed. He reported that the backup light fuse did not blow.
Ive tested the backup light fuse and the recently replaced VSS. Fuse is good and the VSS tests ok for Ohms and gives AC voltage when the tone ring turns. I pulled the fuse panel, GEM, and PCM. There's no visible damage anywhere there. I'm stumped. Tomorrow, I'll dig for any melted wiring under the dash....
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My father has a 2009 Ford F-250 Superduty with the 5.4l V8. Two days ago, he frantically woke me up from a nap because he could not get the truck out of park nor are the brake lights turning on when the pedal is pressed. I instantly thought Shift Interlock, did a quick google search and found that it can be the shift interlock or brake light switch on the brake pedal. I have since then replaced both to no avail as well as checking all fuses. I put a multimeter to the brake light switch connector and am getting a steady 10.2v. I am aware there is a bypass switch but that doesn't address the fact that he has no brake lights.
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My Ford 250 is currently stuck in park, it starts but I can't move the shifter. It sounds like it is a fuse issue from what I have read, but I bought the truck at an auction and I don't have a book. Do the brake or parking brake fuse? And where is it located? I know there is a panel under the hood and under the dash, which fuse to look for. It's a 2008 extended cab gas model.
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2011 250 run fine when parked it Friday jumped in it Monday morning got a check traction control light on will not shift out of park no break lights replaced break switch all fuses are good.
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I have a 2006 F250 V10 that has this issue most of the time but not all the time. Start her up, foot on brake and the shifter wont move. I use the bypass method to get her moving when this happens. It seems to be doing it more often lately. Also I recently has a cruise control issue. Hit the brake to shut it off and it doesn't stop it! Not sure if the 2 are related. The internet said I need to replace the switch on the master cylinder to fix the cruise control. I got lots of different stories on the park issue.
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My 2013 F-250 Super-Duty periodically won't start or come out of park. I have tried the ignition trick of tuning it to first position but with no luck. Sometimes I can see the light for the indicating light for being in park flashing on and off rapidly and manage to get it into neutral to start. It appears to be completely random. I potentially happens when I drive it for longer periods or do frequent stops around town.
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On my 2006 F-250 truck, the speedometer is acting funky. It's like it stuck on the deceleration and now at a complete stop or idle it shows a speed of anywhere from 40-60 mph. It does change and go up and down, as I drive but it's now just off by 30-60 mph. Is this an electronic setting/calibration that one can do?
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My 2004 F250 super duty crew cab is stuck in park. Every once in a while it will move to drive, but once stopped and in put in park, its stuck. Its an Automatic transmission
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I have a 2000 ford f350 7.3l with a auto transmission(4r100) and I have had problems with it . It started a while back when the transmission is cold like in the morning when I put it in drive it acts like when you don't push the cluch in on a standard when coming to a stop kind like it's bucking and this only happens when it's cold when it's nice and warmed it's fine so I changed the whole transmission and put a billet torque converter and I'm still having the same problem can it be a sensor or something electrical ?
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The #8 fuse under the hood was blowing on my '00 F-250 every time I turned on the healights meaning I would lose power to my park lights. The brown wire coming from the back of the headlight switch showed a dead short to ground that I traced to somewhere between the switch and the firewall.
Anyway, I got tired of trying to pinpoint the ground fault, so I cut the brown wires at the back of the switch and under the hood at the top bolt-on electrical plug and replaced the bad section with a new wire. It works fine now with the only exception being I do not get the park light flash when I hit the remote lock button the second time. I do still get the horn chirp.
My Haynes manual indicates there should be a relay box with a Park Lamp relay, Driver Unlock relay, All Lock Relay, and All Unlock relay. The park light relay looks like it sends the blip of power to the park light circuit. Where this relay box is? I'd like to splice into the brown wir coming out of it to restore the light flash when I lock the truck since sometimes it's too noisy to hear the horn.
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The problem I am having is that there is a grinding noise when in park. If i shift into gear then it is fine but shifting back to park very big grinding noise. At the same time I have the Speedometer and fan for the heat not working as well as the heater for the seats.
This problem is so bad I am afraid to drive and get stuck somewhere. I have checked the starter and it is tight ad secure. all fluids are fine. Not sure what this would be? This is the single vehicle i have for work and family.
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