Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F350 - 4R100 Not Up Shifting To OD
Oct 9, 2015
Bought truck drove it 240 miles on interstate 80 mph no problems---2001 F350 4x4 auto. Next morning backed out drive and trans fluid trail 6 inches wide. Didn't leak in forward gears (at that time) added fluid and drive to town shifted fine.
Next day gonna drive 150 miles to check out leak. (Son was driving it) said it wouldn't go over 40 mph. Revving high. Hauled truck here on trailer and pulled tranny. Rear housing cracked just before 4x4 adapter. (This trans was rebuilt 10k miles ago) ..
Got used 4R100 from friend who replaced only because he built one for his truck. It was shifting fine etc when pulled 6 months ago. Used cracked trans TC and installed. Test drive no 4th or OD. Pulled trans put TC that came with trans in. Still no OD. Put on scanner while driving. Trans is being commanded to shift to OD but not up shifting. 45mph at 2400rpm.
Pulled plug to solenoid pack inside trans ( this should make trans default to OD / limp mode) still no OD and won't go over 45.
Pulled OD button checked wires inside steering column. All looks great. Not even a heavy rub mark.
Should I replace the coil pack in trans? Where do I go from here? Again this trans was known to be good when pulled 6 months ago.
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I have an isspro sensor that I need to install on my 4r100. I have it all installed except for the actual sending unit. My question is where is the best place to put it?
I've watched multiple YouTube videos and it seems a lot of people use the test port on the driver side above the linkage. I found out the hard way that it is a very poor choice of location. A lot of people say that the best way is to drop the pan drill a hole and weld in the bung? I was wondering would it be possible to put it on the "out" line on the transmission oil headed to the cooler? 01 f-350 7.3
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Recently I have had an issue with my auto which was just rebuilt. About 500 kays after i picked it up it shifts dangerously hard and immediately into all gears at around 20-40 mph, converter also locks immediately. The speed sensor in the box was replaced with the rebuild but I'm having it replaced again this thursday just in case.
Just for the record I cooked it on the beach a while back, the speed sensor was replaced with the rebuild as it was doing the above, the od light also flashes when this occurs, before and after the rebuild.
Prior to cooking it never had an issue.
What could be causing it? I'm starting to worry it cant be fixed, have done a google and tried a couple of things mentioned. Code says wiring issue associated with speed sensor in box.
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My buddy's 2001 7.3L F350 has had 3 transmissions. Rebuilt and used. Once the new trans is in he goes like 15 miles and then is starts shifting hard and grinding gears. What this could be?
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The other day I was driving i was driving down the road when suddenly my truck wouldn't shift out of first gear, then the truck died and the motor wont turn over either. Acts like it is locked up. Its an 01 with v10 and 4r100.
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What's an acceptable GVW value when one is looking to replace the air to oil cooler for this transmission?
2001 F250 CC SB PSD 7.3 Edge
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I have an 01 f250 with a 4r100. Trans has not been slipping at all and yesterday it started a rough shift between 1st and 2nd. (3-4K Rpms) At the same time 4th gear stopped engaging. Shifts out of 3rd but does not go into 4th. I can hit my od button and it will shift back into 3rd and start pulling. Still no slipping just doesn't want to change 1-2 or engage 4th. I have done a full trans fluid change including new filter and tc. Old fluid looked fine with no metal flakes or garbage in it. So all new fluid still same problem. I was thinking of changing my shift solenoid.
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On dads 04 f350 the 4wd first wasn't shifting to 4lo. Would do 4hi and 2wd fine. Then motor on t-case went bad. Replaced motor 2wd and 4hi still good still no 4lo. Then just 2wd so we unplugged t-case motor and power probed motor got it to do 2wd, 4hi, and 4lo. So we thinking bad dash switch but power probed it and its working fine. So we r thinking VP4C3F-14B128-A/ chassis computer bad just behind/above glovebox. R there any test we can do to confirm its bad? We called local junk yards to see bout getting one, nobody had one. If this is indeed bad where is cheapest get one? What all years use this certain chassis computer??
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2002 f350 7.3 ... problems started all of a sudden one day. I have an edge evolution tuner in my stroke. I have it set to make all of my shifts firm. One day it started shifting really sluggish between 1st and 2nd gears only. It don't do it all the time, but it does it more often then it doesn't. I have also noticed when i come to a complete stop and then start out again it seems that it doesn't downshift all the way back to first and when i hit the gas it seems to kinda be stuck between gears and it barely moves until i get the rpms up before it will ease its way into 2nd and the converter locks up.
It shifts a through all the other gears just fine nice and firm like it should, its just the shift between 1st and 2nd. Im wondering if maybe it might be the speed sensors or maybe the tranny filter is getting clogged up? The fluid in it is still nice and red and up to the level it should be. I just bought the truck in october and the fluid was nice and red when i bought it, but who knows if they changed the filter. I have had NO tranny problems with it up until a few days ago when this little problem started.
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I have a 2011 F-350 6.2L that has extremely hard shifts from 3 to 4 going up and 2 to 1 going down. Sometimes on downshifts it feels like something has ran into the back of the truck. I had the computer updated when the truck had approximately 40,000 miles on it and he assisted a little bit. The truck now has 140,000 miles and it is back to shifting horribly. I put it in the shop at the dealer on 30 December 2013. The dealer says that the problem is that the shift solenoids need to be replaced but that they are not available. The truck is still sitting at the dealer and I am being told that the parts should be available mid February.
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Ok so some one locked my hubs and put the truck in 4x4 4low i assume my aunt was driving it, truck wouldn't shift from 2 to 3rd is this normal since its in 4low. The shifter also seems pretty stiff and 4wheel isn't used much if there a way to know if 3rd gear toon a crap? Trans fluid seems fine not dirty or burnt...
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I have a 97 F350 5.8 with E40D trans. I bought the truck with it shifting hard thinking maybe a simple filter/fluid change would fix it. It may have worked a little but did not fix the issue. There were 3 or 4 codes that I have already cleared up with new parts. I am still getting a 327 (something with EGR?) and 629 (Converter clutch control circuit failure). These show up in KOEO and KOER self test. The O/D does not flash ( bulb does work).
Parts that have been replaced: VSS, MLPS, new connector going into solenoid pack (tabs were broken), TPS. Removed the trans wiring harness and there is no damage or loose connections. When I replaced the solenoid connector I noticed there was some trans fluid in the connection. I cleaned it the best I could and reinstalled with dielectric grease.
The truck runs fine and shifts in and out of every gear fine its just shifting hard. If I unhooked the battery it will shift perfect for 5-10 minutes but then the hard shifting returns.
The only other thing I can find with my research is maybe the solenoid pack needs replaced. I figured if I take it somewhere they are going to want to rebuild/replace transmission. It seems like it can't be something very major since it will shift fine when reset...
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I went out getting firewood in my 2001 F350 4X4 6.8l V10 auto . Backed up to the slash pile, put the truck in 4X4 Low and went to work.
When we finished I flipped the switch to 2WD, but the transfer case would not dis-engage and the IDIOT LIGHT on the dashboard stays on 4X4 Low... I can't get the truck out of 4X4 Low. I turned the hubs from auto to lockand its still stuck in low range.
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My truck lives with a trailer behind it and I always turn overdrive off when under 50 mph and turn it off to slow the truck and trailer down when coming off the interstate. About a month ago when I turned od off to take a exit truck did not decel. Just shifts to 3rd and engine goes to idle even at highway speeds. Truck still tows fine. No trans codes no flashing od light. Trans was rebuilt at 163,000 miles have 183,000 now. I'm stumped to what it could be.
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I have a friend who just burned up his transmission. He needs to get on the road as quickly and cheaply as possible (he uses this truck for work).
We found a local 2wd 4r100 out of a 2000 but it is for a 2wd rig. His pickup is an 2001 F250 7.3. 4x4.
What is involved in setting up the 2wd transmission for the transfer case. We can salvage parts from his old transmission if need be.
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2001 f350 w/v10, 6.8. the fender mounted starter solenoid went out so I replaced it, while doing so I also replaced the battery (previous owner had a marine/rv battery installed, I purchased the truck a couple months ago). after replacement the truck still will not start. when attempting to start it barely if at all cranks, long story short I was going to have the starter tested but in the course of removing it the terminal posts broke off so I ended up replacing it too. The truck still would not start or really crank so I dug down with the expectation of finding a bad ground someplace. cleaned up the ground points. Now I have the battery on a charger awaiting it to finish recharging. Something that is likely/remotely likely to be causing the engine not to crank over and start that I have missed?
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My abs light is on. The guy I bought it from said he thought it was the sensor but who knows. Is there a way to test the sensors to see if they are working? Also can any other possible issues to look for? 2001 f350 7.3 xlt...
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I bought a 2001 7.3L deisil F250 CC short box a year ago. It has an AFE cold air, a 4inch exhaust and an Edge chip in it, Now the tranny was rebuilt a year before I bought it, however I almost instantly noticed a shutter when starting from a stop. One shop said u joints. I replaced them and the carrier with no results. IMHO u joints was a bad diagnosis as it only happens off the line and not through at a certain rpm. When down shifting I find the truck almost goes into to neutral before engaging 2nd gear. I have a 6.0l tranny cooler and my temps get to 215 and above quite easily when towing... 3-6k-lbs. (I try to pull over before that) Also when towing up hills the tranny almost feels like there's a slight grinding. For the first little bit anyway.
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It's a 2001 F-350 Crew cab short bed. Got it from the second owner which had a large file from the original owner on documentation and maintenance records. Truck has 280k, tranny about 80k. Question I have is, I kinda thought it would "feel" more powerful then it does. Temp got to about 35f last night after work and it cranked for about 15-20 sec before it started (yes I let the "Wait to start" light go out).
Then pulling out of work it would hardly get out of its own way. Does this sound normal? When it is warmed up it goes ok, but still I figured when the turbo winds up it would feel a bit "peppier". I get its a diesel and not a hot rod but I was expecting a bit more pep.
MODS on the truck that I can tell: AFE cold intake, 5"? exhaust turbo back, about 4" lift. Stock PCM. In cab controlled rear air bags, nice deck with back up camera.
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I have a 2001 F 350 with a V10 it keeps coming back as a misfire on cylinder 3 and 4.. I replaced all of the coils and plugs and pigtails I have even swapped out the coil packs from side to side and I still keep coming back with the same code. The truck has a bad check around 1500 RPM with a load on the motor mainly doesn't in overdrive and first starting off...
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Tonight I went to check the air in the tires on my 2001 F350 Dually and saw that the front right rim is broken. Two of the five spokes are completely broken all the way through. So this means I am looking to buy at least one good stock rim for the front. Might buy two if the price is right. Didn't want to spend the money for 4 custom rims right now unless it is really a super deal. If you have some sitting there in your way send me a message. My Zip is 46347.
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