I have a 2003 f250 5.4 with a couple of bad valves and low compression and a dead miss because of it... I just bought what appears to be a 2001 5.4 from an f150... I am worried now this engine wont work and cannot find anything online that can tell me yes or no....
View 12 RepliesI pushed the Tow/Haul button on the gear shift and my instrument cluster went DEAD. Have checked the 3 fuses labeled instrument panel (F4,F35,F41) and they look OK.
2003 F250 6L diesel .....
I've got a 2015 F250 with a 6.2 Liter with no compression on 3 cylinders. The dealer just diagnosed it and has not opened it up yet but the mechanic says it is probably a broken valve spring...that it is not uncommon in this engine.
My concern is not repairing the spring my concern is what a "free spinning" piston in 3 cylinders does to the life expectancy of the main and connecting bearings in this engine. I have rebuilt engines in the past and I have bought re-built from auto parts stores and from Jasper and I have never had any last more than 60-70K miles. It seems to me that even with very little mileage on the engine with three of eight pistons jumping around under no pressure that there could be considerable scarring of the bearings or bearing surfaces. I am no expert by any stretch but this is an engine in atruck that has less than 22K miles on it and I ain't real happy about opening it up let alone trusting for the next 280K miles that the bearings have more wear on them than they should have. It was only driven about 20 miles total like this but that is a lot of pressure on a highly tuned and pretty darn precision machine.
This is the newest vehicle I have owned since 1988 and I meant for it to be the last pickup I drive (I drive 'em til the wheels fall off) but I am not overly confident that even if this is a one off problem that it hasn't caused even more damage that won't show up for another 100K miles or so???
I have a 2000 ford f250 5.4 2v that's been having a shaking at idle and no power what so ever. I tried diagnosing it myself and came up with nothing. I finally decided to take it to the dealer and they are telling me that the right side has no compression on 3 cylinders. They want almost 7000 for a new engine. I was wondering if it was possible to get away with just putting a new head on the right side?
View 13 RepliesI've got a 2003 F250, SD, 5.4L Triton that I've owned since new. It has 205,000 kms on it and has run flawlessly since owning it.
Yesterday I went to use the truck after it sitting for about 2 weeks, which isn't uncommon for this time of year as I'm in the landscaping business. It never sits long, though as I make a point of using all the trucks, periodically, just to "blow the stink off" as my Dad would say.
Anyway, when I fired it up the gauge was drop-dead below "E" so I go to fill it up and it takes in fuel and it won't take a drop more. I got under the truck and knocked on the tank in various spots and the tank seems almost plum full.
When I power the truck off and back on, all the gauges come to life and settle on their appropriate readings, except for the fuel gauge. It powers up to full and then drops to below "E" as though I had turned the truck off again.
My question is, am I reasonably safe to assume my sending unit has bitten the dust? I figured that since the gauge comes to life upon startup and then drops to "E" after the rest of the gauges initialize, the fuel gauge itself probably isn't the problem?
Is there a chance that as I drive it over the next few days, and the tank empties, maybe the "sloshing" of fuel might dislodge a stuck part?
I have a 2000 F-250 V10 that misses (cylinder 10) at the idle, once you give it gas it runs correctly again. I am at a loss. I have replaced the plug, tried moving coils from one cylinder to another to see if it shifts the miss, and it has new injectors. What this could be?
View 9 RepliesQuestion, my truck started to have a miss under normal acceleration, when I really get on it, it clears up? I also noticed a bad sulfer smell at idle. Im thinking the cat is possibly plugged? Truck had 172000ish on it, and the cat is original. I did do a big tune up this past fall, new plugs, coil packs, air and fuel filter. Should I put a new cat on it? And a new oxygen sensor?
View 9 RepliesMy trouble is upon turning key to start everything goes dead (no power to anything). Does not always happen, sometimes she starts just fine.
After the power cut out if I turn key off, wait a minute, then back to on position she will sometimes come back as normal or sometimes the on "ding" will chatter and dash lights will be dim.
I have checked batt connections, starter/solenoid connections, block ground connection. All seems fine. Get same problem when I jump starter with screwdriver. Been suggested to me ignition switch to blame.
Like the title says, if it sits over night the battery will be about dead. The cables were replaced 6 months ago and are in good shape. I could not find and bad spots on the wires I can get to. One odd thing to note, with the key out of the switch I opened the passenger door to check the glove box light and the truck started chiming like I had opened the drivers door with the key still in the switch. Would that indicate maybe the key switch could be the issue?
View 14 RepliesI have 2002 F250 4x4 with 5.4 V8. It has auto locking hubs. If I haven't used the 4wd lately I have to manually lock the hubs in, right side sticks, so I have to use pliers to lock into place. After a few times it works in auto fine. Anyway my issue. I went to use my 4wd so I manually locked the hubs, hopped in the truck and flipped it into 4wd. When I did the instrument cluster died. Radio, power windows and locks, turn signals all work. I just don't have any speedo, tach, fuel gauge, water temp, battery, no odometer. All went blank. I checked some of the fuses that I thought it could be from the owners manual but still no luck.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 f250 7.3 with a dead pedal and gauges. This has happened to me once before checked fuse 45 and it was blown. I didn't know that the po used a 30 amp fuse when it should have had a 15 amp. I replaced it with a 30 not knowing. Well coming home the other night it happened again gauges dead and pedal. Checked fuses all were good. Found this site and read about the cause in the shifter. Took that apart and fixed the wire that was broken in half. My question is what else is fried now from having a 30 amp fuse in while it was shorting out since I have no gauges and gas pedal.
2002 f250 banks six gun
banks 4 inch exhaust
My 1999 f-250 7.3 has been sitting for months, and I went to start it and both batteries are dead. Replaced both batteries and at first the alarm went off like normal. Turned the alarm off, hit the unlock button and it beeped like normal. Got in and stuck the key in the ignition and tried to turn it over. Completely dead. Now I cant even get the alarm to go off, showing no signs that its even getting any power. And all I'm hearing is a low clicking noise in the cab.
View 5 RepliesI just purchased a 2003 F250 Super Duty with the 6.8L V10 It has really high miles on it as it was a landscaping companies fleet truck. I'm sure that it was pretty well serviced as it has 300K miles on it and it's still running pretty decent.
I picked up the truck and I have to get the smog done soon. It idles with what I can only describe as a slight miss and it runs and drives great. seems to have plenty of power for the miles that's on it.
There is no active CEL on but I scanned the OBDII system and found a P0171 Lean bank 1 code in the pending codes list of the scanner. I guess this year engine doesn't have an EGR Valve or DPFE sensor because I've looked high and low for it and there non existent on this engine.
I've checked for vacuum leaks by spraying brake cleaner or carb cleaner all over the place and it makes no difference and all the vacuum lines and connections look okay.
When it's running It does sound like a vacuum leak right behind the top of the plastic throttle body but I can't find it, I don't know if this big *** engine just sucks that much air or what.
Like I said I need to smog this thing soon and I don't want it to fail if it's missing or has another issue. The fuel injectors look new and one coil pack looks like it's a replacement...
I picked up a 2013 F250 back in Sept. currently about 5k miles. I've had in the shop twice. Once for a loud moonroof vibration when idling and just recently another for a PCM update(Engine light came on).
Here's the problem...
Something odd happened when I drove about a 1/4 mile... The dashboard lit up like a christmas tree and gave every error known to man. All dashboard lights came on, parking break, engine light, etc. Then the computer dash gave an AdvanceTrac Error, Oil pressure low and something else I can't recall. All my gauges went dead, including the Speedometer. Mind you, this was while driving... The only gauge working was the fuel gauge.
Turned the truck off, back on, everything works as normal. The truck has not showed any issues since (2 days of short distance drives).
I called the Service Dept and spoke with my guy. He never heard of this before and kind of wrote it off... Said, they won't be able to figure out unless it happens while they have it. This doesn't sound right to me.
My nose is pointing at the PCM update or a possible grounding issue.
I'm having multiple electrical problems and not sure if all related or not but they started at the same time.
1) Occasionally (getting more frequent) truck acts like its almost dead and wont start, but if i remote start it cranks right up
2) Radio doesn't shut off when I open the door, but if i close it and open again it does
3) phone staying connected to bluetooth but its acting up when trying use phone for music
Pretty sure there is more but I cant think of them now.
I just bought a 99 f250 2wd with 290k on it and my only issues are brake shutter and steering play.
The steering has about an inch to two dead space at center while driving. The truck tracks straight and doesn't wander at all. I was wanting input on what i should look at first to fix the dead space in the wheel. Its a little iffy having to steer through dead area to get steering output.
I just need something good so I can do it once and not have warped rotors again.
As I am driving everything goes dead radio, windows, dash, alarms, everything then turns on a usually 30 seconds later. is it a ground? is it a sensor that's getting to warm? is it a loose wire? where should I start??
View 6 RepliesI have a 2008 f250 superduty with the v10. Just today I was driving and engine picked up.slight miss it's rainy. I thought coil pack, but it left me on side of road. Got fired limped home won't go more than 40mph. Runs rough, no power, checked codes and get P0340, p0357, p1336, and P2195.. Where to start.. My daily driver and have to get back on road.
View 1 Replies160,000 miles and cylinder 7 is dead and 3 is dying, valves probably with rings right behind. Is it better to rebuild or buy a crate motor? Buying a crate motor, will a 5.0 fit? Should I spend the 5 or so grand beefing up this one, dropping in a 302 or putting it toward a newer model?
View 2 RepliesI am experiencing what feels like a "bump in the rear" when initially starting from a dead stop. It feels like a car behind me tapped the bumper or that the truck "hunkers down" first, then moves. Tranny seems fine also. Once moving, there is no problem whatsoever. There atre no noises, leaks, or other symptoms. Also, when coming to a stop, it feels the same way just before the truck completely stops. If I drift forward a little, then apply the accelerator, it does not "slip" or hunker down.
Took it to the dealer and they claim that they can't find anything wrong and may just be the suspension releasing? The truck does this whether loaded or not?
2001 F250 CC Lariat SB 7.3
I have no compression on #4 cylinder. Is there any way to check the cylinder for damage. So I can just replace that piston if it's good?
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