Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 - Rust Rear Fender Well?
Nov 29, 2014
I own an '03 F250 and have had it since new. I love the truck, keep it in good condition, and plan on keeping it for at least a few more years. For some time now I've had the classic small spots on one rear fender well. The spots are getting a little bigger and look like they're going to come through soon. I'm not a big fan of fender flares, but from what I understand, that's the easiest way to fix the problem, cut the rust out/seal it, install fender flares. Is there any other way to fix the rust without repainting the whole bed? I don't like fender flares because I think they look a little weird with stock tires and also because it's only one fender that is rusting, but I'd have to install them on all four. If fender flares are the only way to go, any that are small and low profile?
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I want to get the rear fender flares on my dually painted, they had a few scuffs when I bought it & I will soon have some spare time to get it sorted. We can't get the truck in the paint booth so taking them off seems like the ideal solution. I have had a quick look & I think it's just a case of removing the plastic liner (screws & clips) then it looks like there are some nuts up inside the steel fender, disconnect the wiring & they should come off!
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I have a 2000 F-350 Dually. One of the rear fender lights is not working. Is there a way to check the bulb without pulling the inner liner to access it?
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Where I can locate rear fender flares that will match 2011 and up f450 flares? Which flares would cover the f450 front fender flares holes?
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once a year i remove all my seats (yes i unbolt front and rear seats and vacuum real good) and when i lifted the rear bench seat back from the rear wall i noticed THIS to some it might not seem like a big deal but to me this is a HUGE problem, i know my trucks a 2004 but whats gonna happen another ten years from now and longer down the road if i don't stop this now? Im gonna have to be buying or making a repair panel for the rear cab thats what! I plan on keeping my truck forever and buy a new truck down the road so i want this one to last, only thing i can think of is the rear sliding window rubber seal is leaking and letting the water get between the two body panels? From outside where the cab corner meets the center body panel piece none of the factory body sealer is missing or cracked so it has to be the rear slider seal?
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I had a bad starter solenoid on the fender in my truck I swapped it out and then my starter went so I swapped it now it is not disengaging the starter If I turn the key to the run position it starts cranking and fires right up before I an let the glow plugs cycle or anything and it won't disengage the starter I turn off the truck and the starter is spinning loud for a couple seconds till it stops no matter if it just start the truck or start it and run it for a couple minutes then shut it off. 99 7.3L ....
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I recently had need of replacing my left exhaust manifold on a 2000 F250 4 x 4. I removed plastic inner fender well. Now I have a two pin harness with both white wires. One is white with red stripe, the other is white with black stripe. The harness is round with a locking square on one side. The harness is located about 10" from bottom of inner left plastic fender panel. It has 2 mounting pegs. Where the heck does this connect?
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I didn't get the windshield replaced rusted the whole way across the top of the window. Now to fix it right need a new roof panel. This truck barely see snow if it does it gets washed underneath. gets waxed 5 times a year washed every 2 weeks if not sooner now a spot of rust anywhere else on the body. well the bottom of the tail gate but that was covered by a bedrug. But the windshield has me upset to say the least. Really would like to know if there is a problem there like ford not prepping the metal right since it was a new body style for that year.
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My truck, 2001 F250 SuperCab 4x4 should be delivered any day from the Pacific Northwest. It has Zero rust on it and I want to keep it that way. Unfortunately here in Kansas City, Missouri most of the trucks of this vintage I see have rust around the back wheels on the bed. What steps, if any, can I take to prevent rust on my new truck? I'm pretty OCD about cleaning my vehicles (or anything for that matter, lol) so washing the wheel wells is a no-brainer.
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My 02 F-250 (week end truck) has begun to start showing a lot more surface rust on frame and axles. It's about half rust and half black frame. Are there any products that I can spray or brush on that will convert and stop this. ?
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Have a problem When i make a slight turn to the left sounds like the tire is rubbing the inner fender. Don't do it all the time. The tire is not rubbing.
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What is the thread size/length of the 20 transmission pan bolts on the 4R100? I am replacing the pan since the rust has finally started weeping ATF, and the bolts need to be replaced as well, they have turned into little rusty nubs. So i want to use stainless ones. I could pull one and go to the hardware store, but what is the size i can stop on the way home.
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It appears it is mostly surface rust and am looking for something relatively simple to fix it. I would prefer to use something in aerosol cans since it is small amount of total area, maybe Rustoleum products?
I will attempt to remove as much of the rust as possible with circular wire brush on drill but feel there will still be little crevices that I won't be able to fully clean.
I'm also interested in knowing what I should use to harden the surface to prevent the excessive chipping of paint in this area.
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So, after washing my car, I noticed something orange/brown between my rear bumper and rear fender... it's rust. So, what should I do? I know it will only spread but since it's on the rear quaterpanel, it's not easily replaceable unless I cut the metal or sand it down and repaint it. Should I go to the dealer and see what they say?
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I picked up a set of harley davidson look-a-like headlights online for my 05. I go to install them and when I tighten them up it causes the turn signal bulbs to push in towards the fender on both. I put my hand back there and it feels like the bulb socket is being forced against the header panel assembly. Am I missing something?
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Problem is two fold. First......my grill "Ford" emblem is chipping and fading. Second....there is rust along the inside edge of the tailgate near the weep holes. I have been told the rust must perforate the area in order for it to be covered by warranty. Truck is pretty close to pristine condition and two service reps said rust is coming from the inside of the tailgate. Doesn't make sense to me to wait for the rust to get really nasty before it being covered by warranty. I bet a new tailgate cost more than that!!!! Hey whats the deal with the eroding "Ford" emblem??? Looks like the coating is flaking off and letting the blue paint fade away. I don't think this is normal but that too doesn't seem to be covered by warranty !! Maybe I should think twice about my next vehicle !!!!! Comments ??????
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2003 F250 V10 4x4. I have a rear brake sticking so I assume I have to replace the calipers. Which brand should I go with?
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2003 in sig. when going around corners slow I can feel and hear a chatter or vibration coming from what I think is the rear end. I am running amsoil 75/140 in it and added some friction modifier. Do my clutches are shot and making noise or do I need to add more friction modifier ?
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My 2003 Ford F250 V10 seems to have a vibration, sometimes at all speeds and sometimes at freeway speeds. I replaced front hub assemblies and ball joints and rear calipers last year. When braking i have a vibration in rear as well, which I think is from uneven rotor but can it be causing my vibration? Also sometimes I can smell hot brakes from the rear.
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I have seen plenty of the king ranch models that have the rear Captains chairs. My question is, I have a 03 Lariat Crew Cab w/ a bench seat, however, I would like to remove the bench and put 2 captains chairs in the back. Is this possible without lots of interior body modifications?
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Two weeks ago did a road trip to NH from RI and i heard a slight dragging only at low speed (10-15mph) in my left rear tire. figured the caliber was dragging a little, it was. Before arriving in NH the brake light came on. Long story short i get back to RI and the left side noise gets worse and starts to lock up. I finally replace the rotor which was warped, pads, and caliper which was bad.
Was driving it same day and still here the same dragging and screeching noise and the brake light is still on. On my way home the left side locked up at low speed without hitting breaks and slid the truck, mid you all parts are new on that side. I am not sure what it could be at this point something in side the axle?
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