The third brake light (on cab) went out and I can't seem to find which bulb to get to replace it. Are they the same as the 2 Taillight bulbs on the bed?
View 3 RepliesMy 2011 f250 is stuck in park and the brake lights do not work. I have changed the brake switch but still wont shift out of park.
View 4 RepliesThe brake light stays on all the time. It started 5+ years ago going out intermittently, then began going out more frequently for longer as the years went by, until now, where it stays on continuously (except for one small miracle where it cam back on during a short drive around town). I don't normally care if it stays on, but for the first time in 7 years I'm going on a long road trip and can not engage cruise control with the light on.
View 9 Replies1-11-11 built F250 with the 6.2. 45K miles. Took it to my local HD truck shop to have the code read. The reader said "Evap pressure sensor switch malfunction", "vac above pressure limit wouldn't bleed". He cleared it and it has now come back.
1. Where is said switch located? Is this something I can do as I'm a seasoned wrench but I'm not dropping the tank in my driveway in the winter.
2. Is it in the tank or outside the tank?
3. Has there been any TSBs or recalls on this before I attempt to repair?
We currently have a 2011 F250. During the day time, when you turn on the headlights all the way (not just on "auto"), the dash lights and clock shut off. Originally, I thought that they were just dimmed to the point where you couldn't see them, but the brightness is already turned all the way up on the dash lights. If I turn the brightness up any higher, the dome lights turn on, but the dash and clock remain off. If you return the headlights back to the "off" or "auto" position, the clock and dash return to their normal brightness.
View 4 RepliesI have a f250 super duty. I blew a brake line the main going to the rear. So the genius that I am I replaced the line an simple enough I decide hell why not replace the master cylinder too, so I did an I bleed the brakes an everything works jst fine but now the the brake light won't turn off I have tried everything not sure what could possibly cause the light to stay on. I will eliminate some suggestions, I bleed the brakes, the brake fluid is full, the level sensor is completely attached, the parking brake is not on, I pulled the parking brake completely out, even completely disconnected the sensor thinking it would turn off bu it didn't.
View 1 RepliesI have a annoying check coolant additive warning light that wont go away, is their another way to turn off the light other than the button on the steering wheel? I have searched the forum but have had no luck, my coolant level is at it's proper level.
View 3 RepliesParking brake light stays doesn't come on when the parking brake is engaged. The light DOES come on when starting the vehicle and the gauge cluster cycles through its start up procedure. Couldn't find a fuse that would fix my issue...does one exist?
Truck is an '02 F250 w/ 7.3TD and 6 speed manual.
2 weeks ago I had the check engine light come up on my 2011 F-250 6.2 XLT. Did a diagnostic check and Codes P2098 and P2272 came up. Did some research and found out the second O2 sensor on passenger side had gone bad. I replaced it with a Motorcraft O2 sensor and cleared the code. It has not came back since. But still not getting the fuel mileage I got before. What else could be wrong?
View 5 RepliesChecking out my 2007 gasser this weekend an found that my third brake light does not work....no power to the socket. The cargo lights on either side of it in the same assembly work fine so I believe the ground to be intact. My question is does this light have it's own fuse? if not where should I start looking for the solution to my problem?
View 1 RepliesPulled into parking lot this morning, 05 F250 CC 4x4 V10, truck starts dinging at me, Park brake light comes on. Ease off of gas and idle around to parking place, no sign of brake drag. Release Park brake, no difference, set the brake and release, no difference, guess the microswitch went bad. Not raining, never hit a bump, MAY have had my foot on the brake, but that shouldn't effect the P Brake.
After setting for the 12 hour shift, all is good and well. Did not come back on.
Where this switch is? Is it under the cover by the foot set or under the truck along the cable? Would like to know where to look next time this comes up. Did have 2 new tires installed on the front a week ago, new tierod and aligned at the same time.
Just wondering and curious, my last F150 had all kinds of electrical germlins in the windshield wiper arm.
I'm having a turn signal issue with my '02 F-250 that started this morning out of the blue. Seems that when the signal switch is set for a right hand turn and the brakes are applied, the signal will then become solid, not flash, and then blow the fuse. Evidently something with the brake light circuit is overloading the turn signal circuit and not canceling when the turn signal is activated.
Here are a couple of things I have tried to narrow down the culprit.
1) Left turn signal works fine regardless if the brake lights are operating.
2) Brake light circuit operates fine by itself.
3) Right turn signal works fine but there seems to be a back-feed of power causing the center third brake light as well as the left side rear brake light to flash in unison. If brake lights are then activated, the flash stops and becomes constant thus blowing the fuse.
4) Emergency Hazard lights work perfect but the center third brake light again flashes as well which reverts back to some type of back-feed of power. Also, if brake lights come on, flashing turns to constant light and then blows the fuse again.
I guess my question is,. does this seem like the multi-function switch needs replacing or could this be a relay issue of some sort? I don' think its a ground issue simply because the left turn signal circuit as well as the center brake light circuit are both being breached when the right turn signal is activated. Your thoughts?
2002 F-250 Super Duty 5.4 V8
The problem is I haven't seen one for a recent (2011+) SD. I don't see anything that resembles a rear drum. They look like 2 huge regular disc brakes.
I live on a hill. My old man taught me to put the trans in neutral, autos and manuals, put the ebrake on and make sure it holds the vehicle, then put the trans into park or 1st gear. This way the weight of the vehicle doesn't rest on the transmission.
How do I adjust the Ebrake? It's ALMOST holding the truck, just needs a minor tweak. I don't see the dust cover the write ups described at all. The one that reveals the Star Wheel. Are they different on these years then prior SD's?
I have a 2011 f250 6.7 and I have a very bad vibration between 40-50 that seems to peak around 45-47. It also starts again at 80+ . the dealer told me they could not find a problem. Then another told me its normal. The tire shop around here told me the tires were shot so I bought new tires. No luck. It does not affect it if I change gears.
2011 f250 4x4 6.7 SWB. 140,000 miles
I own a 2011 f-250 superduty, and have been having a problem with the steering, it goes from normal to lost of assist. Real hard to steer and dangerous. Then it will go away for a month, then start again. Some one on this site told me to flush the system which I did and it was fine for a month. A friend at a local ford dealer told me they had contamination in the system and I had to replace pump, reservoir, and flush system again....
View 10 RepliesBought my 2011 F250 6.2L brand new and have had issues with it accelerating since new. I had it in once and they replaced the mass air I believe.
When I merge onto the highway for example and give it some good gas (not really stomping on it) it down shifts and pauses like it trying to figure out what gear it wants to be in, then it picks a gear and the RPM's rev high, but then sometimes it will do the same thing again and then finally take off. If I completely lay into the throttle, it revs high and drops into a gear, then comes back out and drops into another gear, then does it yet again.
Not a fun situation to be in when big rigs are barreling down on you in the right lane! I work 6 days a week and a lot of doubles, so my one day off is usually spent running errands and dropping my truck off all day with the possibility of leaving it for two days just isn't viable, so I hate to bring it in for them to tell me it's fine.
Love my '11 f250 SD 4WD CC SB. 6.2 with 3.73 e-locker. I've got 5 Star tunes in it, and the truck is a joy to drive empty, and tows my current 7k camper fine, though on steep inclines I wish I had the 4:30 gears.
Well, we just bought a bigger trailer, dry weight is an addtl 2400+ at 9400, so I'll need to do something.
I don't want a different truck, don't want (another trouble-prone) diesel. I think with 4:30s and the tune, I should be fine towing that trailer (with gear and passengers, probably 11-11.5k loaded). Not doing mountains here, just Michigan hills.
What's the best way to "do" a gear swap? I know if I buy a set of gears and a shop screws Em up, it's gonna whine/hum and still cost 2k to do (truck is 4wd)
I'm up in the boonies and finding a shop to swap the gears will be a problem. Getting Em done right will be even MORE trouble.
Can I just find 4:30 axles ans have them swapped (anything in t-case or sensors need to be touched?). I don't care if I lose the e-locker, I never use it.
So two weeks ago I had a battery melt on me and I replaced it. Then last week I had the other battery almost blow up on me (it was a mess and smoking). I didnt use it all weekend. Today it started right up. I drove it like 500 feet and it just died. It is very weird. Both batteries are fully charged. Relay is good. When I put in the key it does nothing. No sound no radio no clicking. However, the gps still works (the online monitoring kind). I can fold in my out revie mirrors. And I can lock and unlock the doors. and the interior overhead lights come on. Nothing else has power at all. And I can't put it in neutral. Right now the truck is blocking my driveway so nothing can get in or our of here. I am wondering if it is some type of antitheft issue...
View 5 RepliesWhile cleaning the door handles the switch to extend and retract the side view mirrors hung was depressed and evidently got stuck as it was still pressed in. My hope is that this just blew a fuse and not burn up anything. The mirrors still fold and can be adjusted just not extended. Is there a fuse specific for this that may be blown?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 6.7L F-250 with the stock 17" rims and need new tires. Would 285/75/17's will fit without modification or rubbing?
The stock tires were 265/70/17 and were too small. I have 285/65/18's on there now without rubbing, but it is close. Going back to the 17" rim with a taller tire makes me a little nervous, as I can't check them before purchasing.
I do not want to have any rubbing or have to do any modifications (lift, spacers, etc...). I would like to keep the vehicle stock.
My 2011 F-250 diesel will not start when it gets to be about 85 to 90 degrees. In cold weather (I live in South Florida, so by "cold" I mean 50 to 70 degrees) it starts up just fine and gives no problems whatsoever. However once the summer months hit it more often than not it will not start. I've taken it to the local Ford dealer and when they run diagnostics it doesn't report any problems. I admittedly don't use the truck very often and it will at times sit for a couple months without use. Could that be a cause of the problem? What the problem might be?
View 1 Replies