Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F350 Overheating After Oil Change
Aug 8, 2017
I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles. Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home.
All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles.
Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
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Trying to stay up on my maintenance on my '11 f-350 diesel. It just turned 59k. I can only find Ford's recommended service interval for changing the fluid in the transfer case listed in the "Special Operating Conditions" section of my Scheduled Maintenance Guide for towing, delivery, off-road and dusty conditions at 60,000 miles. I tow some, but maybe 20% of the time, I end up driving a lot of stop and go though.
So I found this nice how to online "Guzzle's Transfer Case Fluid Change" - it's for a 02 heavy duty, is it about the same on the newer diesel trucks?
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I have a 1999 f350 v10 stock truck. It has plenty of power when it's cold out or raining or I'm on backrooms or highways but if I drive through town on a hot day the transmission kicks bad I have changed the fluid and filter, it also seems to shift at a high rpm from 2nd to 3rd. Unless I you let off quick and go back on kinda like engaging a 2 speed rear end. Does it need a bigger trans cooler or is the trans shot
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I have a 2014 f 350 super cab xlt. Ford design engineers should be ashamed. But really who has installed the older (2009 ish) ford seat in there trucks for a little more comfort? How much fabrication was needed? Hate to say it but if I cant put the older truck seats in I'm going to buy GMC. These seats really suck.
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Just picked up new 2014 F350 lariat today and I can't figure out how to change the keypad code. I enter the factory code and hit add, but when I enter a new 5 digit code it wont let me hit enter.
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my truck at 210k miles got a new radiator (seeping at seams), thermostat, water pump (bearings shot, leaking), intake manifold (The crossover was leaking). It now has 227k miles. Oil leak in rear at head gasket by starter (bad head gasket?) It overheated the other day( blowing coolant out the expansion tank needle in the red) Replaced thermostat. Drove around for two full hours, seemed fine, Drove to work today it overheated ( same thing, blowing coolant needle pegged) didn't make it to work. There are no external leaks and its not putting steam or white smoke out the exhaust. I read somewhere that a blown head gasket could make the truck overheat, is that possible? What all could cause this problem?
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2 nights ago changed the fuel filters for the 3rd time on truck since bought it a year ago. It has 67,000 miles. F350 6.4 L 2008. The truck ran for about 2 minutes and then wouldn't start. For the last two nights have done everything including cycling the key over and over to purge air, replacing the fuel filters thinking the first ones may have been defective, pumped the gas pedal while trying to start it, tried to start it with fuel cut off switch held in, changed o rings etc. The first night I didn't get fuel at the head but after changing the filters a second time, I now have fuel at the head. That is the only progress I have made. The truck has gas and it is fine as we are using it in other trucks. The battery has never been allowed to totally deplete.
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2001 f350 7.3 Changed front injector drivers side inspected all 4 glow plugs on this side turned motor over my hand 5 time reinstalled plugs put back together hooked both plugs back up started truck and no of the cylinder on drivers side are firing checked them with temp gun!! what did i not do or do wrong.
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2001 F350. I need to take the face plate off of my in dash cup holder and put it on the new one that I bought. Ford charges a premium price on the Dark Parchment or Dark Buckskin that I have. So the dealership I bought the new one from told me its possible to change out the face plate.
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So yesterday we were towing our camper home from a weekend trip. We were pulling on the interstate at about 70mph, up a slight grade into a strong headwind. The outside temp was about 85 degrees, so not too hot out. After about 5 miles I got antifreeze sprayed on my windshield, coming from under the left front corner of the hood. The water temp held at about 220 degrees where it usually runs when towing hard but the oil temperature steadily worked up to about 240 degrees. I limped to the nearest place to stop and pulled over to let it cool down.
After it cooled down I added water to bring it back up to the minimum mark. We were 200 miles from home on a Sunday so I stopped in the local Wal Mart and picked up a can of stop leak and poured that in then we hit the road again. About 10 miles down the road the water again sprayed onto the windshield and the oil temp came up, this time hitting about 260. The water temp stayed between 218 and 220, once working up to 225, so I slowed down and the temps came down. I was able to creep along and made it 50 miles to a relatives house where I let it cool again and added more water.
When we hit the road again we made it about 10 miles and the oil temp had worked back up to 240, water temp stayed around 218 so I stopped at my parents house and dropped the camper. We drove the 100 miles home from there without the camper. The water temp stayed around 195 and the oil temp held at 212. If I got over 60mph the oil temp came up, but keeping it under 60 the temp held. So, what is wrong with my truck? Is the oil temp up because I was a gallon and a half low on water? The most I had to put in was a gallon and a half. Did I plug the oil cooler up with the stop leak?
The oil temp when towing has always ran 12 to 18 degrees higher than the water temp. I forgot to add, 2005 F350 with the 6.0 diesel. 240,000 miles on the truck. I have owned it just under a year and don't know a lot about it. I don't know if it has had any work done to it prior to my owning it, the antifreeze looks orange or yellow colored.
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My truck all of the sudden started overheating when running idle or at low speeds. No towing or anything with 89 degrees outside it can hit max water temp in matter of 2 minutes once at running temperature and standing on red light. I checked the coolant level - looks good and changed the thermostat just in case, but the problem is still happening. The fan is running/kicking in as well when it gets hot.
I'm waiting for OBD2 plug to read the stats from the computer, but what else would you suggest I can check for issues ? Oil temp gets to about 222 and transmission to about 194, but it doesn't keep on increasing. One another thing I noticed is that when I have AC running it will actually pop a overheating message on the display (I don't continue to drive it at that point) and when it gets hot it seems as if it didn't have much power.
I don't know if this is connected, but about two months ago it started blowing black smoke when starting from red light or stop sign or when accelerating with gear reduction. It is a 6.7 diesel one and only has 60k miles on it, so I'm hoping its nothing major.
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Came out to start my truck today a hit the key and got nothing. After I settled down from being upset about my truck already giving me trouble (bought it in Nov and had 25k miles on it, 35k now) and that I should have stayed with a Chevrolet, I was able to start it by crawling under and jumping the started with a screwdriver. The truck started up no problem and got me home where I did some troubleshooting. Looks like I dont get solenoid power at the starter (just main power), the relays and fuses checked out, anhe d it looks like the key is still programmed.
I had been getting what seamed like a delayed start every now and again that was going on for a while, but thought it was just me. The next items I thought that may be the culprit are the neutral safety switch or the ignition switch. The gear selector seams to work fine and it wont start in either P or N, the backup camera turns on and nothing seams to be incorrectly working on that account. Also, the truck is a 2011 F350 Crew Cab 4wd Lariat with the 6.2 gas motor.
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For those of you struggling like I was a few minutes ago... Here is a procedure that worked for me.
1. Key ON.
2. Select OK to get rid of OIL CHANGE REQUIRED message.
3. Scroll down to SETTINGS and push OK.
4. Scroll down to VEHICLE and push OK.
5. Scroll down to OIL LIFE RESET and push OK.
6. Scroll to any % other than what you want and push OK.
7. Scroll to what % you want and push OK.
8. Key OFF.
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I just bought a 2011 F250 Super Duty 6.2L and the manual A/C buttons were stuck on Max A/C and wouldn't change. I fiddled with every switch on the dash thinking it might be a stuck switch and eventually all the buttons started working. This truck has SYNC, which works fine, and I can't find anything else wrong with the truck.
When the buttons are lit, it blows good and cold, in A/C and Max A/C. The problem I'm having now is that they won't light up at all. Visual inspection shows nothing obvious under the hood, and it has a charge of freon. I drove and it id working just fine, but stuck on the Max setting. I'm thinking electrical gremlins, like stuck switch or a relay...
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I bought a 2011 F350 that was in a collision. I have done collision repair before but I have not had to deal with air bags... Both driver wheel and passenger bags deployed. I see some for sale on EBAY for around 300 used....do I just by them and install them? Is there a reset or something else I have to do? I see some sell them with the controller as well...do I need that?
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I have a 2011 F350 with the towing package. I got it used as it and it was a northern truck. My towing mirrors won't extend in or out. They fold and unfold just fine. When I press the button to telescope them I can hear the motor running so I know the fuse is good. I took the glass off the mirrors and scraped some salt out of the joints. I sprayed some lube on the joints as well but still no luck. I also tried forcing them but not too much to avoid breaking them.
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I have a 2011 F350 with camper package (didn't want it). When I drive on a bumpy road (without 5th wheel), the truck suspension does not absorb the shock. The ruts just throws the truck side to side. Really hard, so I can't go on a dirt, rough road. On one bump it poped off my rear tire cap.
My problem may be with the camper package trying to keep the truck from going back and forth.
There is a 7/16 inch steal rod going from the truck bed, around the differential, and back up to the other side of the truck. Is that the rear stablizer rod?? Can I disconnect it? What would be
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2011 F350 with fluid leaking in through the firewall. Does the Hydro booster have to be replaced or is there a gaskets or seal on the rod that goes to the brake pedal?
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I feel a vibration and hear a rattle/grinding noise intermittently in the front driver or passenger floorboard only when the truck is cornering AND starting uphill or downhill. The vibration lasts a second or two and seems to be directly related to throttle/rpm acceleration while cornering and not something just loose and clunking around.
Dealer could not reproduce but it just happened again yesterday a couple of times in city traffic after dealer inspected and greased front end zirks.
What should I be looking for and how would you go about getting this resolved? It started happening in the last couple of months and never made a sound prior. Truck is in year 4 of 6 year warranty so I want to tackle now, but I need better understanding of problem.
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what is the best computer chip for a 2011 F-350 to get better gas mileage?
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