The 19.5" wheels are not an option on the 2013 F-450, unless you order a Chassis Cab. I'm certain many have made this change. My question is can the dealership make the necessary changes so the speedometer correctly measures the vehicle speed?
View 3 RepliesI've got a 99 F-250 7.3 with the 6 speed manual. My speedometer is accurate to within 1 mph or so. However when compared to a GPS unit, my odometer is off by about 50%...meaning it registers approximately 1 mile for every 2 traveled.
I was under the impression the mechanism that results in the speed being displayed is the same one driving the odometer and therefore if one was off, the other would be (conversely, if the speedo is accurate, so would be the ODO). How do I resolve this issue?
just got 20" rims 295/65/20 Nittos. Is my odometer accurate and speedometer?
Not that it matters but its a 99 F350 CC LB 3.73 axle ratio
Got a weird one today. Everything was fine all day. Got the old girl smogged this afternoon and made one more quick stop. Got back on the freeway and up to speed and looked down. Speedo said I was 90? Yeah right. I was going with the flow.
So I plugged in my bluetooth ALDL dongle and fired up OBD Link. Well, OBD Link showed normal and accurate speeds. As did a second app on my phone for giving speed. So my VSS must be working correctly.
So my speedo is showing about 25 over actual. When the ignition if off the needle sits between 20 and 25. so did my speedo take a dump? Is there anything else I might try to see if it auto-calibrates?
My display on the MFA and Climatronic panel is really wrong (-44C now). I was taking a look at the sensor in the front left grille but the only thing that's changing into the readings with my Vag-Com is the outside temperature sensor but not the displayed temperature.
I didn't find any other sensor on my car. Nothing into the rain tray...
My speedometer reads accurate only till around 45 mph. The needle begins to float around gently, and the faster I go, the more discrepancy it reads. It may hang a while, floating around 60 and the speedometer app on my phone says I'm going 74.
The speed sensors were replaced for another issue a year and a half ago. The dealership initially wanted me to put a new transmission in it for $3800 after they said the trans was slipping past 45. Then they said something instead about a valve plate (could be wrong vernacular) for $1000 instead of an entire transmission.
When I finally told them that my cruise control is completely erratic, trying to track the needle movements with upshifts and downshifts, they said it's $200 in parts for the drive gears and that they were made with plastic that can wear out.
So I said I would sit on it, since the ideas about the issue seem to vary greatly, and my father set me up to go to a transmission shop to have the car checked out. They had it for two days and changed the fluid out but we can't fix your speedometer issue... take it to the speedometer shop, but btw we think your transmission is fine.
Now, do I take it back to the dealer for the drive gears, or do I take it to another specialist? I have seen people say all it needed were the drive gears replaced and a new sensor. My odometer seems to still be working. There is no issue with my gas gauge.
I have a 2000 Ford F-250 6.8 v10 that is running rough and cutting out when I give it gas but I can turn the key off and turn it back on and it will run right, what it could be?
View 1 RepliesI bought the 2005 F250 6.0 Turbo Diesel with 67,000 miles on it last March. It has given me gave me absolutely no problems until now. In the last 2 weeks I have had it plugged in when it was below 32 degrees outside. Otherwise, I just remote started it every morning and let it run for 20 minutes before I left. In the last 2 weeks, I have noticed the same problem whether it is morning, afternoon, or evening and it happens at different times. I will be at a standstill at a stop light, stop sign, or parked in my driveway when this occurs. Sometimes, and like I said, "sometimes", it will hesitate when I give it throttle. It will quickly respond after maybe a second, but the hesitation is still there. It only does this on occasion!
I work for a Lucas Oil distributor, so in the winter I ran the "extreme diesel conditioner" through it with a tank of diesel about every other week. I also used the fuel-injector cleaner at every fill up. On "ONE" occasion, and like I said, "ONE" occasion, when it hesitated at a stoplight, I looked in the rear view mirror, and noticed a short burst of white smoke, and then it took off. It has not done that since. I took the EGR off and cleaned it and it seemed okay until 2 days later, then the same hesitation came back, but like I said, at times!
I replaced the air filter and since then I have done nothing. I am now being told to check the coolant level in the resevoir. When I un-screwed the cap the cap, there was pressure in there and the fluid was about 1/4 inch low from the line. I was also told to check the filter on top of the block, but I have not gotten that far. Ford says it is the EGR cooler system! I have "NO" check engine lights!
I have a 2006 6.0. It's hard to put into to drive and for you to get it moving you have to just about floor it. The tow haul light is flashing but my bullydog won't pull the codes. It stops moving after like 30 to 40 ft after you got it moving and acts like it's in natural. If you turn it off and back on it sometimes will move another 30 to 40 ft sometimes. It also sometimes if you put it in reverse won't let you give it gas. Like you can push the pedal but the rpms won't climb for this reason I'm thinking something to with a solenoid or fuse or something along those lines and also because if you restart it will move again. I don't know much about transmission. I'm taking it to a shop tomorrow for them to try and read the codes. If they say the transmission is toast i already located another one 2 hours away to swap in which I'll do myself to avoid the high cost of the shop which also I'll look to yall for guidance. I drained some of the transmission fluid and didn't see any metal flakes. Should I pull the pan as well and look if nothing is coming out in the trans fluid ?
View 4 Replies1999 Ford Triton V-10 engine, after changing Oxygen sensors, all vacuum hoses and Mass airflow sensor,(also replaced another sensor but can't think of the name of it right now) now I don't get the codes but engine will start and idle but if I give the engine gas it bogs down and stalls. Vehicle sat in my driveway for 3 months, I got it started and drove it once about 30 miles filled up my gas tank thinking gas could be stale, but now it will not run.
View 5 RepliesWith the colder temperature, I noticed the temperature for the transmission is not getting up to normal as quickly as before. Yesterday I switched to gauge mode and it showed 145 degrees after 20 miles of driving at an outside temperature of 42 degrees. What the minimum temperature should be? It's not showing a check engine light and shifts good.
View 8 RepliesSo, recently acquired my grandpa's "old" 2000 F250 with the 5.4. I am a pretty mechanical guy, not a mechanic, but not dumb and change my own parts for a lot of stuff. Anyways, when I got the truck, I noticed it didn't like to get warm, or so the gauge said. It would go a little above cold, but you could tell, not a normal reading. I did a coolant flush because the system desperately needed it, changed the tstat, and a few days later, changed the Coolant Temperature sensor.
I pulled the old one out, it was covered in amazing crud from many years of being in there. Slapped the new one in, nothing. Doesn't register on the gauge at all, in fact the gauge acts like it is a dead gauge. I thought it might be the sensor, so I popped the hood again and found I had managed to break the plastic plug on the sensor. Figured that was probably the issue and went and got another. Same result. Checked the connection, it is in there snug. Didn't reset the PCM when I changed the sensor and some vehicles can be finnicky about that.
I recently (2 weeks ago) picked up my first Effie, a 2004 RN F250 Supercab XLT 5.4L 4x4 auto (dual Fuel Petrol/ LPG).
One of the things I am exploring is a problem with the tachometer reading high. I read on a thread somewhere on the forum that it was most likely that the earth of the tach plug was not connected. (It was a great thread but I can't seem to relocate it)
I am still chasing a workshop manual to get wiring diagrams, etc. In the mean time, where to locate the said plug/ earth connection?
2006 F-350 6.0. I have an intermittent problem with my Speedo reading zero while I'm doing 70mph on the fwy. since the speedo won't work the truck goes into limp mode, the turbo will not function at optimum level. I have replaced the diff. sensor, the trans sensor, the a.b.s.sensors, the instrument cluster to a reman cluster. Then when I had a local mechanic plug a laptop diagnostic program on it as he was running through the system inadvertently the radio cut out, so I found that who ever installed the after market stereo they cut a few wires to the harness, I went to the junk yard found the harness end and replaced the end. so with all that said and done no one knows what is causing this speedo not to work and limp mode. about 4 years ago the oil pump stopped working and ruined the turbo so the whole front end of that glorious 6.0 was rebuilt the problem started about a year after that.
View 3 RepliesI drained the transmission fluid on my 2000 f250. I measured the fluid at about 6 quarts. I refilled with 6 quarts. I drove until the engine was hot and checked the fluid while running in park. Each time I check it I get a different reading on the dipstick. I wipe off the dipstick each time but sometimes I pull it out and it reads low. The next try it shows about 1/2 inch over full on the dipstick. Can't get two consistent readings. Is it harmful if it is a little over or under full?
View 4 RepliesI just bought a 99 f250 sd 5.4. The speedometer doesn't start working until it reaches about 30 mph. The transmission doesn't shift correctly until the speedometer starts working. I cleaned the speed sensor on the rear end but that didn't work. I don't see any sensors or switches on the tranny other than the neutral safety switch. What it is?
View 3 RepliesOn my '99 F250 PSD 4x4 the speedometer climbs very smoothly (normal) until I hit 54mph and then it just stops going up. Reviewing other posts I have changed the DSS (differential speed/ABS sensor) and the VSS (tranny speed sensor). Disconnected both batteries for several hours to see if it would clear.
Doesn't bounce, peg, go to 0, just won't go past 54mph. No power loss. Tach continues to climb and speed continues to increase. No strange symptoms except this 54mph thing. It is completely repeatable. All fuses under the dash and hood check out ok.
I bought a 1999 Superduty 7.3 6 speed and went out to drive it yesterday and noticed my speedometer stops working at 40mph. I saw many posts about this but no fixes. Bad cluster or vss? No abs light on dash. Still runs and shifts good. Only one yellow airbag light illuminated on dash...
View 9 RepliesFor a 99 F250 7.3 with 6 speed manual..my odometer goes around but the speedometer does not work at any speed. A mechanic said he thinks the problem is in the gauge cluster but I would like to know where to start troubleshooting.
View 2 Repliesmy speedo doesn't work but, all the other gages do. I just replaced the front hubs, abs sensors, ball joints etc... I put a new sensor in the rear end this morning and still nothing isthere a fuse tied to this somewhere? am I missing something? it's a 5.4l with a 4r100
View 8 Replies1999 superduty 7.3 standard ... As I said speedometer fail with abs lite on. When ambient ten above 85F, speedo works abs lite out and cruse control works.
View 1 Replies