Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: ABS Pulsing Under 15 MPH With A Pull To Right


Feb 25, 2015

Had an issue pop up today while driving. Heard a bit of a wierd soft grind sound under dash while letting off the brake at a light to go. Upon applying brake again it was ok (slowing early to a red). Then lifted foot off and applied again. It was then the pedal was hard (ish) to push but was still safely slowing the eX.

Then as I slowed more, the pedal went a bit further down and I felt the ABS pulse through the pedal. Very light braking by this point. There was also a little bit of a pull to the right. Pulled over. No leaks, visual inspection done.

Held my foot firmly on brake. It didn't move to floor, so I know there wasn't a leak in hose or anything dangerous.

Drove cautiously to my destination, repeating same scenario until I came to the side streets. Having lots of snow here I was able to push pretty hard and have the pedel become hard to push, while still locking the brakes up into a skid. I did, however, notice the rears would lock, NO ABS feedback.

No ABS warning light on dash.

I could drive pretty quick, hit the brakes hard and all was well until 15mph or so, then the pulsing would start. Pedal got hard (er) to push. Quick stops and really slow slow down stops. All with a little pull still to the right. Pedal was always harder to push back down the second brake application (one after the other, not the next stop light). Possible ABS Sensor issue?

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Truck pulls to the left while braking, pretty bad. So, pulled the front right wheel off thinking the pins are stuck again as last year. Bottom pin was fine, top pin pretty gummed up but not froze so I cleaned it up good, used thin layer of the good stuff, put back together and test drove........same thing. Pulls left upon braking just as bad as before. Caliper pistons seemed fine, didn't take much to compress them either.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Truck Will Only Go In Reverse / Can't Even Pull It Forward

Have 2001 F-250 7.3 PSD, automatic, ESOF (had to replace the original hubs with Warns)have kept up the maintenance,oil, grease, ATF fluid & filter, truck has been virtually trouble free. About 2 weeks ago I decided to go across an area of the lawn, as I was going (in 2 wheel drive)I felt the tires spin a little so I stopped got out and locked the hubs, got back in truck turned t-case to 4 high. had to rock the truck out of a damp area but nothing really.

So I got back to where I came in at (in reverse about 100') stopped put it back in 2 wheel drive, tried to go forward, very difficult, sluggish, got back in driveway had to back the truck in, will not go forward at all now. Checked all fuses, rapped the the t-case motor, no codes. So I thought I'd move the ruck, have a winch that will pull it out by the barn, I could not even move the truck forward by pulling it with a winch. As I said have never had any problems with truck. Transmission fluid is good, clean no burnt smell.

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My daughter has this truck and I was driving it the other day I noticed it misfiring when the trans shifts down under a slight pull and/or going up hills. It looses power and speed when this happens but if you back off, it smooths out when it shifts into overdrive. I haven't had it to a mechanic to check any codes yet.

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Took it back to the same dealer last week with 1200 miles on it now. This time they say they replaced the rotors. I went and picked it up it this morning. Within 5 miles drive of the dealership I can tell the brakes are still bad. Now, it will kind of do a "head fake" when the brakes are applied, pulling slightly left or right, before deciding which way it wants to pull. It will pull right or left now during firm braking. And the brakes were stinking by the time I had it back to them. I turned around and took it right back to them again. Brand new F250?

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Super Loud Clunk Noise Come From The Door When Car Turned On

So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.

Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?

I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?

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Is this a common issue? Is there a quick fix (tightening a couple bolts or replacing a couple clips?) Or should I take this back to the dealer for warranty?

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