Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Climate Settings With OEM Remote Starter?
Oct 21, 2015
I recently purchased this remote starter and I installed it and had a local dealer program/cut the key.
I have an XLT without the message center. Do I have the manual temperature setting for when the remote starter is used? It has not worked either way as far as i can tell but it has also been very mild temps in illinois at 55-65 in the morning.
If I do have it, is it a setting i must engage somehow? I looked in the manual but could not seem to find anything.
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I can't seem to get my heated seats to come on when I use the remote start. Is this possible? I assume the supplemental heater comes on behind the scenes. Is there a temperature differential between the climate setting and the outside temperature? If so what is the delta? If it's 40 degrees outside and my climate is set at 60 degrees...will the supplemental heater come on? How about the rear window defroster and heated seats, can I make them come on when remote started? Same question for the seat cooling...in a few months.
My truck is a 2012 Ultimate Lariat 6.7L ......
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Just bought the truck and when remote starting it i noticed it is turning on the heat. Having read a bunch of different posts it sounds like the climate control would be set to automatic which i would like to have it just use were i set my controls. Problem is i do not have any options on the instrument cluster for climate control and no auto button the the heater controls themselves. I would think that means i do not have automatic climate control but it is doing it. How to turn it off?
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What torque setting I should use for lug nuts on a 2000 F-350 dually?
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2002 - f250... I originally posted this issue in July of '03. Nothing has changed.
1. At max ac, regardless of how hot it is, the ac clutch cycles due to low pressure once the cabin temp reaches about 78 degrees. This is not acceptable or expected in my opinion.
2. I have run extensive tests, done this for years, and the conclusion is that there is too much pressure drop in the evaporator. I'm seeing 5-7 psi drop measured using a Fluke digital temp probe, insulating the probe tip around the pipe. Compare outlet of orifice tube several as far away from orifice as possible and comparing to outlet temp of evaporator where it comes out of the plastic shrowd. Convert temp to pressure.
I've seen many posts over the years of people not happy with '99 to '04 ford truck ac operation at cruising speed. I have confirmed that the compressor is cycling way too much to cool the cab down. I even ran an experiment where I completely blocked the condensor to raise the head pressure and the compressor still cycked at 1500 rpm's with the cab above 75 degrees on a 90+ degree day.
My next step is to blow out the evaporator and see how much oil and junk I get out of it. I'm also considering taking the evaporator out and trimming the rubber gasket that is around it. It is blocking about an inch of the coil face all the way around.
My conclusion still is that the evaporator just isn't loading up enough as if it's partially clogged. There is only about 2 psi drop between the outlet of the evaporator and the compressor.
The compressor cuts out at 21 psi so the low pressure cutout switch is working properly.
What should I use to flush the evaporator out? Will mineral spirits do it as long as I blow it out real well and make sure I get all of it out? Also wondering if I should blow out the condensor thinking maybe there is something clogging it up.
In spite of some folks on this forum saying it is normal for the compressor to cycle at cruising speed, that is a correct statement depending on many factors. In my case, the cycling is not normal or expected. I have also tried:
1. VOV
2. Larger orifice
3. 14 oz charge over what the sticker says
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The left Warn Premium hub has started rotating out of the Free setting, this seems to happen at or near highway speeds. A tell tale sound is then produced, I assume from the splines contacting. It does not rotate all the way to lock. There seems to be less resistance on this side now than the other when locking. Hubs have been installed for 3.5 years, problem started a few days ago, haven't been locked in a couple months.
We've had torrential rains for the past week with no end in sight due to the tropical storm bearing down on us so I figured I'd ask here first before pulling the hub in the rain (no garage).
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I tow a 5th wheel with my 2014 F-250 that has an factory TBC. I just installed Electric over Hydraulic disc brakes on my 5th wheel and was trying to see if there was a setting I needed to change on the TBC to tell it that is now E/H versus E. In the Information section of the dashboard display it talks about the controller actuating electric drum brakes but the manual talks about it being able to do electric AND E/H. What I need to do here...if anything?
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2011 F250. My radio's audio settings are resetting back to default when my truck sits a couple of days. I know there is one member that has(d) this issue. I am still under warranty but thought I would ask what or if there will be a fix.
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It's a 2006 F250 Super Duty, 4WD AT, no auto hubs, 5.4L. All climate functions come out through the defrost vents. That mean when I'm using A/C it works, but comes out the defrost vents, or if it's a cold day and I want to use the heater it comes out the defrost vents. (So does defrost! LOL) Once or twice things went back to normal, but then, once when I had some cargo on the passenger's floor, I heard a hissing sound and it all went back to the defrost vents. Been there for a while now. Dealer wants to charge an arm and leg to look at it and then all arms and legs to fix it, and wouldn't you know it's not covered on my service plan!? Remember, these 4WD front hubs are not auto. I get the idea that to do anything under the dash means I have to disassemble the entire truck down to every last bolt.
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I have a2011 f-250 in my fleet, manual a/c and just the other day it shut off like a switch, when you start the truck it comes on and the buttons all work but after 6 seconds it goes dead, no lights, no blower nothing, everything else works fine. I have also noticed when you first start when the radio goes from the station to the clock thats when the climate unit shuts off. talked to the dealer they said they never sell and control heads and i doubt its that cause it works on first start.
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I got this for R180000 SA RAND the turbo blow so they replaced it the start it 24v starter keeps burning so another try and he replaced the emi i try to start after i got fuel pump running but no luck how can i test to see if injectors getting power to open i got not special tools as in SA is up to ........ No smoke motor just crank ....
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What all would be involved in swapping from regular ac controls to automatic climate control like the lariats have on a 2015 xlt superduty?
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What all would be involved in swapping from regular ac controls to automatic climate control like the lariats have on a 2015 xlt superduty?
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My blower works half of the time...from what I have researched it is more than likely the resistor. The thing is I can't find it..all the videos and pictures looks like they are the **** control control. Where this is located for the dual climate control?
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My 2005 Ford F250 6.0 diesel CLIMATE CONTROL DEFAULTS TO DEFROST mode all the time now. For some reason I'll turn on the AC and it is either already in defrost or changes to it no matter what I do. Is the head unit in the dash the problem or is it a vacuum leak or an electrical issue?
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We have an 1999 f-450 super duty with a cube van box that we use for pickup. About a month ago the radio and lights started to stay on, various other electronics did the same.
we found mostly it points to the gem module...was unable to obtain a new one so we found a use one. For the time being we started disconnecting the battery ( would kill both overnight ) and magically....everything was working again so we didn't bother installed the used GEM.
Now....its given Chirstine a run for her money and auditioning for a maximum overdrive reboot The starter started to turn. Took the keys outa the ignition but a few moments later it started again. Got to the point the starter wouldn't stop and we were running around the shop looking for tools to disconnect the batteries.
Its not starting the engine so the ignition should be ok, its just powering the starter motor. checked the relay and it seems to be working fine. We tried to install the GEM we bought however, it seems its not the right part and its too late to return it now so, we are trying to find a new one ( not used ) from somewhere. so the gem is bad as the radio, blower motor etc comes on and off at will but here's the kicker.... with the GEM removed...the starter is still powering itself....
Thought maybe the fuse box got moisture or something, put a heater on it to dry it out. Pulled the starter fuse, turned off...pulled radio fuse samething
so i think the fuse box is ok.
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I have a 1999 f350 7.3. Turn the key lights and fuel pump come on but the starter wont crank. I replaced the starter and checked all the fuses i could find. The only way i can get the truck to crank is by jumping the relay under the hood .
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My starter solenoid keeps dying. I can't use a retail chain part. They burn up in a day. Always Motorcraft and it only lasts a year or so.
Any way to test this thing to see why it burns out prematurely?
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I had a bad starter solenoid on the fender in my truck I swapped it out and then my starter went so I swapped it now it is not disengaging the starter If I turn the key to the run position it starts cranking and fires right up before I an let the glow plugs cycle or anything and it won't disengage the starter I turn off the truck and the starter is spinning loud for a couple seconds till it stops no matter if it just start the truck or start it and run it for a couple minutes then shut it off. 99 7.3L ....
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I have a 2006 F-250 Super Cab with climate control. The last three years when the temp exceeds about 85 degrees outside it acts up. It will switch from the AC vents to defrost and blow normal air through, not ac cold. Then it will switch back, when doing so I can hear the internal deflector shudder. It will do this every few minutes. It is extremely annoying. All other times of the year it works fine. My local dealer had the truck last year, but could not find anything wrong. I have used the search and also Googled and while I find similar problems nothing exactly the same.
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Another question on this, my 2008 F250 with auto climate has decided to only blow heat on the passenger side...do you agree that it is an actuator? If so how hard or easy is this to fix and what is the best fix.
While here, on another note, I noticed a rubber line hanging right over my front diff it looks like it could go onto a nipple coming off the diff? Is this a vacuum line for the diff that I need to put back?
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