Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 Transmission Noise When Towing On Incline From A Complete Stop
May 9, 2016
2016 F250 6.7L 4x4
I getting some tranny noise when towing on incline from a complete stop. When I slowly press the gas pedal I hear grinding noise. If i press the gas more my truck starts to move and the noise goes away. It doesnt happen all the time. This started right after my 1000 miles recommended break in before towing per ford manual.
My truck now has 2800 miles and the grinding noise occurs intermediately regular driving. Mostly on steep incline or decline. I haven't taken it to the dealer yet because I cant recreate the issue all the time.
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Have an 06 F250. When I slow down to make a turn then accelerate it's like the drive shaft spins half a turn before it catches. Been doing it for awhile now. Now I'm get a clunk when I come to a complete stop. When you stop then truck settles there is a little clunk. Does this sound like the slip yoke problem?
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I have a 2000 f250 superduty gas v10 6.8L . I bought this truck about 4 months ago. Now when I take off from a complete stop the truck shakes up until second gear, shifts fine all the way up until the last gear it looses power "loosing power" i mean i can put my foot into the pedal and it takes forever to climb speed meanwhile the RPM'S never skyrocket like it the transmission was slipping if anything a couple times the RPM's dropped are stayed the same then as i take my foot off of the pedal once i have my desired speed sometimes not always the truck will give me a little jerk Also Just the other day I was driving on the highway and decide to put her on cruise control at about 70mph, I set the cruise control and the RPM gauge was just over 2,000 and the tach was fluctuating up and down about 1/16 of an inch. I been reading alot of forums and what I got out of them is it maybe pointing me to a misfire maybe the coil packs? Plugs?It's not something major like a transmission rebuilt.
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We have a 99 F250 193,000 miles with a 5.4 and a 5 speed manual with 3:73 gears and we tow a camper that weighs empty 6700 lbs. I knew something was off when we were bringing it home, there was no real umph in the motor. It wouldn't get past 55 in 5th gear on the express way, and just felt as though it was gonna blow up. Its a new to us truck and on paper it should tow this easily. We have a couple of trips under our belt now, and nothing has really changed. With gear and goodies I dont think we're even talking 7500 lbs. I like the truck, and don't really want to get rid of it. With in reason what should I expect to be able to tow and what can I do to better the situation.
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I am wondering IF THERE ARE ANY CONNECTIONS WITH TOWING AND THE ABS LIGHT coming on? I just did 360 mile round trip on I84 and I 81 in western NY and eastern PA with decent hill climbs (some with 6% or so grades) - think coal country. I was pulling 8,000 or so pounds (trailer with a jeep on it).
On the way out, the ABS light came on. I pulled into a rest stop and shut her down for a bit. I had been driving on this terrain for the better part of 2 hours. I restarted and the ABS light turned off for the balance of the trip. It was cold (in the 20's) outside. On the return trip 2 days later, the same thing happened after 90 minutes. I stopped again and restarted the trip which turned off the light. This time, the light came back on 10 or so minutes later.
This is the only occasion when my ABS light has come on.
2005 F250 Crew Cab SuperDuty 6.0L
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I just bought the truck 2 days ago and the power steering is acting up. When I test drove it I noticed the power assist seemed weak but it has gotten way worse over 2 days.
Truck is a 2001 F250 4x4 V10 auto. 60k miles and totally stock except for Harley Edition wheels and stock size tires.
Now at a complete stop the wheel won't turn at all. If I roll it works. Doesn't matter if I rev the engine. It doesn't matter if I'm on or off the brakes. Tires have plenty of air. The pump is quiet and does not make any abnormal noises.
This is terrible because how can you maneuver a trailer if you can't turn the wheels when stopped.
I noticed the fluid was low and not reading on the dipstick. I added a few ounces and that's all it took with no change. I then used a suction pump to empty the reservoir with the truck off. The fluid was very dirty, probably the original fluid given the mileage. I removed about a quart and refilled it with fresh Mercon ATF. I also changed the serpentine belt because I noticed the belt was probably the original and was cracked.
It went away briefly tonight as I was playing with it. I thought I fixed it but I was fooled. What I did was remove the reservoir cap and turn the wheel from lock to lock while rolling forward slowly. Suddenly it was fixed . But 5 minutes later the problem was back.
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My 2014 f250 4x4 crew cab with 6.2l gasser only gets about 7.5-8 mpg at 65 mph while pulling my 27' bumper pull travel trailer. I know that thing is basically a wall trapping the air but is there anything I can do to gain a couple mpg more? I can average about 15 mpg at 65 mph without the trailer on the highway.
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When I hook a trailer to my '04 F-250 the parking lights stay on. The lights on the truck are not on. I pulled the fuse for the towing lights and they will go out. Pulled what I believe to be the relay according to the owners manual and they still stay on. I have to unplug the trailer every time I stop for any period of time.
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1999 F250 SD Ex 4x4 V10 has been intermittently not starting, both cold and warm, began last fall but only happened once a month or so or longer. Would then start after trying again either right away or after waiting a bit. Now it is doing it on a regular basis. Sometimes it will start right away, sometimes won't but if you keep trying or wait awhile it starts, sometimes using the extra key will start it right away after the first one didn't, sometimes neither one. It does not try to turn over, make any noises, no warning lights flashing, just won't start.
Now also on two occasions within the past week, it just stopped while driving. Radio, dash lights, etc., stayed on. I got it to the side of the road with the little power steering left where it started up again right away.
No codes showed up. First mechanic couldn't find anything obvious or replicate problem. Changed air and fuel filters (fuel filter really needed changed), plugs. Got truck back and it wouldn't start next morning. He checked it again and got a code related to ignition, tried the spare key and it started up. Truck back home, next day same problem.
Mechanic 2 checked, no codes, kept several days but, of course, couldn't replicate problem. I'm not even sure what all they checked, used to be an excellent repair place but now they seem to only really on diagnostics and throw up their hands, very disappointing. Replaced solenoid and starter last year myself. Otherwise, have had no problems until this.
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My 99 f250 ran hot while towing my travel trailer when the fan clutch gave up. ever since iv been noticing coolant loss and pressure in the day tank.ive changed the water pump,radiator. day tank and cap plus the thermostat.
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I have a 2006 f250 superduty crew cab longbed with the v10 gas motor. it has 201000 miles on it and towed great up until last month. I was towing a 5000lb trailer down the interstate at around 68mph,suddenly it was like the drive train disengaged and the motor had nothing left, check engine light on but no overheat condition or lack of oil pressure. we put a new fuel filter and pump on and maf, took trailer out again and same problem, pulled to the side and turned off, immediately restarted and ran fine. It has a cat not cleaning code in it now!
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What will make a loud blower sound cycle on and off constantly when towing if i turn the ac off it stops....
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I am new to being an F250 owner. Just recently purchased a 2000 F250 SD 4x4 with the 5.4 and a 5 speed trans. Got a pretty good deal on it, because I knew some work had to be put into it, and do plan on dropping the trans. Currently, if the truck has been sitting for a little bit, not cool, but not running for a little bit, when I start it, whether it is in gear or in neutral, there is a noise coming from what seems to be the clutch area.
After a couple minutes of driving, this noise goes away and all sounds as it should. A little bit of researching turned up the possibility of the throw out bearing being bad, however, I found other posts online that doubt this. Another symptom that I assume is connected is that if I go to put it in reverse at 0mph from neutral, it grinds.
In order to go into reverse, I have to press in the clutch, put it in first, then put it in reverse, at which point it goes in no problem. I had already planned on replacing the clutch because it seems to me that would be the logical choice as to where the problem originates, so no issue there. But perhaps I'm wrong??
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I recently bought a 2008 F250 with the 6.4 diesel indirectly from a dealership. The truck itself has 220,000ish kilometers, but the engine (as well as the turbos) are Ford reman that had about 12,000km when I bought it and I have only put about 6500km on it. It is already leaking oil but that is for another thread.
The reverse sensors, steering wheel controls and part of the stock 6cd radio have never worked. The towing system has errors as well. The fuel level sensor often has problems reading the new level after I put in fuel, but that is always fixed by disconnecting the batteries and forcing a hard reset.
I figured the steering wheel/cruise control problem was due to either a broken clock spring and/or the brake pressure switch. I replaced both those as well as the airbag because the horn relay failed closed when I put it back in the wheel. It did not fix the problem. The steering wheel buttons still intermittently illuminate, but the radio controls and cruise control buttons do not function regardless. The truck isn't giving any codes either.
The towing system will activate lights and brakes on a trailer as well as set the gain, but it will not detect that it is actually hooked to a trailer. I cleaned the pins, but I haven't looked any further into it. No codes for this as well.
The reverse sensors/system does not work. It will lock itself in "off". I am guessing this is because one or more of the sensors have failed, but I am skeptical that it would be just that given the trucks other problems.
The radio does work, but the auxiliary input/mode will not work. I ran the diagnostics on the radio and on 'Test 1' I got "SELF FAIL B1342 ECU" and "B2477 CONFIG". I tried to clear the codes, but I can't. I think this means the radio is kill.
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i just bought a 99 F250 4WD with the 5.4 in it i put a brand new starter in it. When i turn the key to try to start it, it just cranks the motor once and stops. The starter isn't grinding or clicking, the motor clicks once and move the belt and pulley a little but that's it. What would cause this?
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I have a 2000 ford f350 7.3l with a auto transmission(4r100) and I have had problems with it . It started a while back when the transmission is cold like in the morning when I put it in drive it acts like when you don't push the cluch in on a standard when coming to a stop kind like it's bucking and this only happens when it's cold when it's nice and warmed it's fine so I changed the whole transmission and put a billet torque converter and I'm still having the same problem can it be a sensor or something electrical ?
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I have a 2001 F250 V10. It idles around 1k and when stopped at stop lights or when put in reverse it stalls. I have replaced IAC, fuel filter, tranny filter, oil filter, plugs, coil boots, tranny fluid, oil, air filter, and PVC along with the PVC hose. I'm totally stumped. It doesn't stall if I do a rolling stop.
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I have a 99 f350 V10 gas dually dumper. Today while driving I stopped at a stop sign. When I went to continue the transmission seemed to be in neutral, then it caught and I drove through the intersection. It 2-3 seconds later disengaged again. I pulled over. When I attempted to put it in park it grinded. (Bad enough I just turned off the key). I checked the fluid. It was close to full and red. While in park I restarted. Truck started fine. I shifted into drive and nothing. It was like it was in neutral still. I attempted to put in park again and more grinding. Also while in park it does not hold the truck from rolling. After getting towed home I checked the tranny fluid again and it was still looking ok. I drained the transfer case also. The fluid in there was near black an appeared to have a metallic look. Does this problem seem to be just my tc or tranny issues also?
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97 f350 5.8L E4OD Transmission. This truck will not downshift when you come to a stop. You must manually shift it all the way through and then it does fine. What is causing this issue? It will kick down into passing gear. What is wrong?
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Was driving my 2000 Ford F-350 stopped transmission would not move no more there was no noises no nothing just stopped pulling no gears nothing only Park works...
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I have a 2009 f250 with 70,000 miles on it and for the last 6 months I have been experiencing some power loss. It happens every time there is the slightest incline on the road, it has to down shift to 3rd gear just to maintain that speed. If I don't push on the pedal until it down shifts to 3rd I slow down to 40mph no matter what the speed was before I hit the incline/hill. I also went from 14 mpg to 10.5mpg. I have heard so many theories and am curious if the fact I upgraded to 35 inch tires and never updated the trucks computer.
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