Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Leakage From Front Of Tranny Causing Smoke
Jul 11, 2013
On a few occasions I had leakage from the front of my tranny causing smoke. It happened again yesterday and when I checked I was down a quart of fluid. This morning everything was fine, no leaks all day and the tranny works fine, I tow a heavy work trailer. My search here shows that this is a common problem from the front pump seal and that it gets worse in time. Went to a tranny shop and the guys says the torque converter isn't locking up and overheating the tranny and causing the leak. He also said that if it leaked all the time then it would be the front pump seal. Anyhow he says it need to be rebuilt, new converter and all that stuff.
2000 f-250 V-10 121000 miles
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I have a 2008 F250 which has been a awesome truck. Very few issues except for one that no one can seem to fix. Its regarding my brakes and a mysterious reason all of them have to a degree locked up and smoked the pads rotors etc. I now have 80k on the truck and have replaced all brakes once and now the front left have locked up for a second time. The scenario goes like this:
So i'm driving along and if the front brake locks up I can begin to smell it. So I pull over and smoke rolls out along with the overheating popping sound from the effected brake. Rear brakes usually are not found until I stop which i get out and then can smell them. Funny thing is the brakes have locked up when not towing. Also, I have never had more than one happen at a time. So as today all brake pads and rotors have been replaced and now the left front has overheated again. From what I can tell the caliper just doesn't fully release. What could be causing this?
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I just got a 2008 Ford F250 PSD 6.4L and there is an oil leak that seems to be coming from somewhere in-between the front oil pan and the oil pan closer to the back. Where this is leaking from and how to fix it.
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I have a 1999 f350, long bed, crew cab, 4wd, dually, v10, 107k miles
I'm certain my propellor shaft u-joints are shot, theres tons of play and I see rust everywhere.
I have been dealing with a vibration problem for a while now, See [URL] .....
I currently am using a pro comp shim kit and the vibration has greatly improved, however shimming different heights did not cure the problem. I'm currently shimmerd 7/8"
First question is when in drive, with hubs on AUTO can my propellor shaft spin fast enough at 70-75 mph to cause a vibration?
Second, can I drive without my front propellor shaft, with out causing harm? For a brief update to above mentioned post, I've had replaced the following:
Six new tires twice! Currently 235/85/16 general grabber load E
Rear pads and rotors
Mechanic opened pumpkin to examine rear pinion bearing (said was fine, no play)
All shock absorbers
Front calipers
Alignment
Continually adjusting carrier bearing height
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Yesterday wife left driveway and about a block away she phone truck "died". It actually starts and the engine is fine - shifting from park to reverse or any gear seems to have no effect. After tow home - i check and there are no codes (using ODBII scanner), the tranny fluid seems full and red. Looking carefully there is a slight rpm drop when idle into reverse or a gear other than neutral or park... but revving engine in any gear doesn't move the truck.
Is there anything else i should check before taking to a tranny shop? Its a 230k mile workhorse for the house but not critical if its down for a week or two. I have had it for 10 years and put the last 40k miles on it. Is there any diagnostic suggested given the symptoms?
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I've got a 2006 F250 5.4l. Recently Ive had an issue when I am driving, usually when the engine is at 3k+ RPMs, where the engine will lose power and the cel with blink. Usually it only takes a few seconds for the blinking to stop and the engine continues as normal. Now, I know that at least one of my exhaust manifolds are leaking.
Could it be that the engine is not receiving enough back pressure and that is causing it to lose power? I had a similar issue last year, basically the same symptoms, and it turned out that I had two cylinders misfiring. I replaced the coil packs and that fixed it. This time there are no codes referring to a cylinder misfire. There is a code for EVAP leak (I think), but I was told it was nothing to worry about.
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I've got a 2003 F350 CCSB SRW V10 Auto 4X4 3.73 LS diff. The tranny doesn't always go into overdrive when I get about 40 or 50, even 60. I went down the freeway the other day at 65 in 3rd turning about 2500 rpms. Am I hurting anything here? One thing I have noticed is the overdrive light on the shifter does not work. Light doesn't come on. Leads me to believe that there is a frayed wire in the steering column. Could that cause the tranny to act funny? The cruise control works, so I'm thinking the speed sensor on the diff is ok, but I could be wrong.
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i have p0750 shift solenoid A error and p0733 gear 3 ratio error and i was woundering how i fix them problems
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2002 F250 5.4 Crew with limited-slip diff.
I put in about a quart of MERCON-compatible this weekend when the level was low. Found out that last tranny flush used MERCON V.
Now I have at least a quart of the MERCON-compatible in with the MERCON V fluid.
Should I not worry and just use MERCON V from now on, or will the two fluids have problems in my tranny?
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Rebuilt trany after losing all gears filled the tranny and while cycling through the gear everything seemed to fine took it around the block topped off the fluid and went for a drive and it will not shift out of second and i lost reverse. What did i do wrong?
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I have a older minimax with the latest updates and have noticed that under full acceleration the tranny seems to rev up faster than the truck is accelerating. This occurs i think in 3rd gear like accelerating onto a on ramp etc. Kinda like its slipping if you know what I mean. I'm running the mild tunes in tow mode. Everything else seems ok.
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Went for a drive today in my Wifes 2003 F-250 5.4 automatic, Parked it and went for a hike, came back, started the truck ,put the it in reverse and it was running real rough.Put it in Drive and still running rough, figured i would put the truck in low and see what happens.It ran fine.Got home and did a visual inspection on the tranny, didn't see anything that jumped out at me.The fluid was fine. What this might be?
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I have the 6 speed (ZF) i know there is a cooling pump on this tranny. Is there a way that you can check the pump to see if it is working???? If not will it set a code??
02 7.3 CC
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'06 Power Stroke/136k miles.
This last weekend I was towing my rzr up hill and the tranny slipped, lost power, and the "Wrench" check eng came on. I pulled over, checked my fluids, checked for leaks, checked for smells, couldn't see anything visibly wrong.
Turned it back on and no other issues on the way to the camp site. On the way home, days later, same thing happened twice. Is the tranny going bye bye? Would it be worth it to get a flush for the possibility it just may be the fluid and maybe some sediments or something of the sort?
AND the bigger question is, if it is the tranny, should I trade this POS in, or replace the tranny? It has had a few problems lately with the turbo. Needs a new AC compressor. I didn't do much homework or know about the 6.0's before I bought this truck. After I bought this truck last year I heard about all the problems the 6.0's have and wished I would have went another route.
I can turn a wrench pretty decent (Aircraft Mechanic) but I have very little knowledge on vehicles, let alone this POS. I am apprehensive about doing a transmission or any big components without assistance. This is why I am trying to decide what the best option would be for the long run.
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So out of nowhere, my tranny started over heating. Got up to 210. It usually runs in the 140-150 range. I have the 6.0 cooler, and 7500 miles on the synthetic fluid. My cooler lines to the radiator were ice cold. I crimped my bypass and this seemed to fix it a little (I know this is a no no), I did the flow test before driving it and it passed. It seems to heat up the most at stop lights in gear. It drives fine, no slipping, no chattering. I also dropped the pan, had some stuff on the magnet, replaced the filter too. It doesn't seem to heat up as bad now, goes to about 190. I will install the new bypass tomorrow when it comes in from the ford dealer. Whats causing the heat? BTW truck has a 4" lift with 35's no other mods.
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I've noticed when I'm towing, on long down hill grades if I touch the brakes I get what feels like a rotor causing the steering wheel to shake. At first it was only mild, but today on a long 6% grade it got really bad. Never does it on a level road, I've tried to duplicate it, only on a long down hill grade, and I'm not getting a pulse in the brake pedal at all, only the shake in the steering wheel. It's probably time to replace the pads anyhow, and I'll check the rotors. What things to look at?? 2006 F350, 6.0 dually 4x4.....
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2002 sd 7.3 4x4. When I start up engine and put truck in any gear I get nothing but the ugly clicking sound when I shift back into park. Turn off engine and restart, everything works as normal. Doesn't do it every time 4-8 normal start ups then a bad one. Brought it to a tranny guy, head scratcher for him. Any other solution before I start changing parts?
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Heard a 2011 F250 gaser while driving in the morning just falls flat on its face, almost like its starving for fuel as well as it feels like the tranny is slipping too. What this could be? I am not sure if its electrical or what.
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I have an intermittent problem with my 09 F250 Diesel. A few times now under hard acceleration I have had the trans seemingly get stuck in 3rd gear. The little service required wrench symbol showed up on info screen but after shutting off the engine no codes were present. A week or 2 later this happened again and I ran diagnostics through my Spartan tuner and got P0771 and P2704 for codes.
Again they cleared when I shut the engine off. Since this is an intermittent problem, only after hard acceleration, would it make sense to change tranny fluid, maybe do a tranny flush? Or am I off to the dealership for a rebuild?
2009 F250 Lariat Crew Cab Short Box
Spartan DashDaq
S&B Cold Air Intake
4" Flange-back w/6" Can
Package by Dirty Diesel Customs-Red Deer Alberta
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Im having an issue with my 2000 f250 7.3 diesel. 4x4. The od light is flashing and the tranny is kind of jerky when it shifts. Also my truck won't go into 4 low. (I have shift on the fly) and every time I put it in park my truck revs up to 2000 rpm for a few seconds. I do have a ts 6 pos. Chip with can tunes on it. And I have already replaced the IPR. It does it even in stock setting.
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I need to solve tranny problem, it started out a while back, would not shift back into drive after stopping at stop sign (after driving fine for about 20 miles) thought maybe dirty filter so did fluid and filter change seemed to work for a while then started again noticed it was mostly after using cruise control, but u joints were very bad, so replaced 2 of the 3 and worked fine for about a thousand highway miles, then got really bad. Now when I check the tranny fluid cold and /or hot it is way up on the dipstick. Took to ford dealer in ladoga, lied and said no speed sensor codes, but list on the paper he gave me had all kinds of abs and a p500 code.
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