Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: New Long Block / Truck Still Smokes When Cranked
Dec 15, 2013
I have recently placed a new shortblock from Nashville engines. My retired ford diesel mechanic said it was the best shortblock he has ever seen. Since working on my truck he has ordered 6 small block from them. I used reman'd Ford heads after going through three sets of heads from Clearwater heads and one set from ProMaxx Cylinder Heads out of rainbow AL.
Since putting in new long block the truck smokes a puff of white smoke each morning. Enough smoke that it bothers me. A new longblock with new injectors should not be smoking. I have changed the fuel filters thinking the 5 sets of heads previously put on the truck may have gummed the motor up and have ran octane boost for the last 500 miles. I ran a 2000 mile road trip and the truck still smokes when cranked. sometimes a lot and sometimes a little. What could be causing this?
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My truck ran and drove then I changed my Steering Gearbox. After all that, I went to go start it, the trucked cranked and the batteries died. Hooked up the charger then and nothing, No start no crank. F250 2006 diesel 6.0 ...
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I just finished putting a 7.3 back in one of our f450 plow trucks today, so then i moved onto our 2001 F250 5.4 plow truck. The dipstick tube was rusted in half so i pulled on the remaining half to get it out and put in the new dipstick. However, it broke off at the block. So now i cannot see how to get the rest out with out doing a lot more work. I haven't removed the splash guard yet but will i have to remove the manifold , the oil filter base, or both?
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In my 2014 F250/6.2, if the truck sits unstarted for 10 - 14 days it will usually kill the battery. I mean dead enough to not even power the dome lights. Do the various modules in these trucks draw that much that it would cause this? I'm getting ready to install a couple of 5 Star tunes in the truck. But if I need to take it to a dealer for some warranty coverage for this problem I'll hold off. There's never been a tune in it to this point and I don't want a warranty claim denied for that reason.
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I have a 2003 F350 6.0 King Ranch. My first diesel truck. Bought it in March 2016. One owner with 102000 miles on it. Has a Bullet Proof oil cooler and 4 inch exhaust. Truck ran great until a week ago. Now, under any hard acceleration it blows out blue/gray smoke and does not seem to have as much power. Coolant level is constant and I cannot find any traces of water and oil mixing.
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I'm assuming its a valve.
2004 F250 with 5.4L. 128,000 miles. Oil changed every 4K but its my work truck. She works hard for a living towing landscape trailers 98% of the time.
When the engine is first cranked, there is a ticking sound from the right side. Its quite noticeable but only does this until I get going. Once I get to driving, it fades away. If I turn the engine off and let it sit for a little while, when I start it, the ticking is back again. As long as I keep it running, it stays quiet.
If this is a valve or rocker arm, how big of a repair is it? What happens if I don't deal with it until the winter (off-season)?
I've tried Marvel Mystery Oil and now with this oil change, I have Rislone in there. Both have made no difference.
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1999 F250 SD V10 I recently replaced the in-tank fuel pump and filter. I operated the truck briefly after and everything was normal. I parked it with about 1/4 tank of new fuel and put it on a battery tender. It was parked in a garage on level ground in temperate weather(Southern Calif.). Two months later I tried to start it and it acted like it did when the fuel pump was bad. Cranked fine but no hint of starting. Could it be the fuel lines have become full of air and need purging through Schrader valve ? I haven't begun to troubleshoot but what to check other than pushing the fuel relay reset button.
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When I bought my truck it didn't have the block heater installed, asked the dealership to put it on with the deal, but they didn't have one there. How hard it is to install one? Also what brand should I go with? (On my '16)
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It got down to the low teens the other day and I thought I would use my engine block heater to see how well it works. But when I got in the oil temp was basically the same as the air temp (it may have been 5-10 degrees warmer but still not above 20*F) after being plugged in for 2-3 hours. Is something wrong here? I would have thought it would have warmed it up or does it not affect the oil temp? If not, what does it warm up?
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I just bought a 2000 F250 SD 6.8 v10 and its mixing coolant in the block and leaking oil. I'm debating on just dropping a newer v10 in it but im just not 100% sure that this engine is shot. It runs great when there's oil in it and I can't even tell there's any problems going on for well over a couple hours after i fill it up with oil.
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I decided to go ahead and do a rear block replacement. I'm going to install the Ready lift 4 inch blocks.
I have both u bolts and nuts off of both sides. Rear stabilizer bar disconnected and both shocks disconnected. However, when I raise the rear of the truck, the axle raises as well. What could be holding it on still? I noticed there's a nut in the middle of the leaf springs. Do I take that nut off? I just don't know what could be keeping it from separating.
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Cold no start goes nowhere. I have a 2001 7.3 that will not start in the cold if I forget to plug it in....like last night. I have to plug in the block hater and give it a while before it will start. I tested the glow plug relay,it works fine. I can not find a test for the fuel bowl hear, and I'm not one to throw parts until I accidentally fix it. Any test procedure for the fuel bowl heater? Why this POS is so bad in the cold? Glow plugs tested fine at diesel shop in December, and this problem has been around since before that.
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I've got the dreaded broken exhaust manifold studs on my 2004 F250 V10. I don't drive it much (just 50,000 miles in 10 years) and confess I've ignored the hissing for quite a while. Is there really a permanent fix for these broken studs? Or should I expect to be replacing broken studs every 2 or 3 years?
If there is a permanent fix what is it? Special studs? Special manifold? I want to keep this truck a long time and don't want to be replacing these studs every few years.
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My truck is 2001 F250 with the 7.3 I have AFE intake, TS 6 position chip, Stage 1 Auto Tranny, 4in Exhaust all the way down. New glow pugs as of last week as well as uvchs and gp relay. Also has a new hpop line. New compression sleeves for fuel lines, riff-raff fuel banjo bolts and fuel pressure regulator.
I am having a hard start issue no matter what the temp is outside, unless it plugged in. Once it starts its good unless it sits for more than 5 hours.
Batteries have tested good, glow plugs ohm at 1.3, gpr 12.83 at batt side- once on it 11.9. All fuses are good. HPOP res is showing at about 3/4" down from top.
***Wires going to the MAT sensor are showing through at the connector, not sure if this could be a problem...if so why???
****Noticed some oil in the ICP, cleaned and unhooked will check start tomorrow to see if this works with long start as truck is plugged in.
Will also be putting a new fuel filter in and double checking oil level in the am. I do not have a scanner tool and am doing the best I can before I take it in to ford to diagnose.
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The last couple weeks my excursion had started to have a stumble and smoke white ate the first startup or after I let it sit for a long time. I did get progressively worse. I noticed the hpop line to the driver side head was leaking from the fitting so I rebuilt the boss fitting and now it's not leaking but when I started it up this morning it did the same thing.
If I give it throttle it clears up pretty quickly but if I let it just idle it will put white for probably 5 minutes. I have no codes showing when I looked with the scanner I don't see any other oil leaks and I don't smell a fuel leak.
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I am having some intermittent long cranks when parked facing down hill (even very slight downhill). It seems like it only happens cold and is worse when parked for longer. Truck has all updated parts under the hood and is under warranty for another month. I would like to know where to start diagnosing (what would cause this symptom) since I'm sure it won't do it when I take it to the shop right before warranty is up for one last go over.
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I took delivery last week of a new 2012 F250 with a 6.7 Power Stroke Diesel. This is my third F250 with a Power Stroke Diesel. My first one was a 1997 w/7.3 PSD and my last one was 2001 w/7.3 PSD which I traded in for the 2012.
Now for my problem. The brakes seem spongy to me. When I am applying the brakes I get what seems like a longer than normal pedal travel (to me anyway) and soft. The braking isn't as good as my last two F250's. If I pump the brakes, the brake pedal firms up and the braking really improves. I have not contacted my dealer yet.
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I only live 6 miles from work and I've been getting a lot of condensation gunk building up inside the filler cap and around the neck. Is there going to be any long term damage from this? Here is a picture of what I'm getting.
I know it's not coolant because I'm not loosing any and the oil on the dipstick is clean.
Since it got cold I've been taking another route to work that gets me up to 9 miles one way. Also, twice a week I take the long way home that has the engine running for a half hour but I'm still getting build up. In the winter I'm on call a lot and rarely go far from home so taking a two hour trip to really heat things up is probably not going to happen.
ETA. I change my oil every 3000 miles if that makes a difference.
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My excursion suddenly lost power after sitting in a long traffic jam. I have a scan gauge II set up and didn't see any signs of over heating however when I went to accelerate back up to highway speed my motor revved up to 3000 rpm and just lost power I ended creeping on the side of the road at about 15 mph and barely maintaining that. The motor was not willing to revv up. I reached a spot to pull over and shut it down for about 15 minutes and started back up and drove off with no noticable issues. I have 211,000 miles on this motor and I am going to change my coil packs, I think they have been there since the truck was sold new....I changed four of them to address a miss and have six left, I will also be changing my fuel filter. We are about to pull our camper across country....about 1400 miles..
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I have an 06 F350 6.0 and I am having long cold starts. On the gauge the ipr is maxing out at 85%. This only happens when cold and have never had a no start issue. When hot the engine cranks right up and the ipr stays in normal range. FICM has been replaced. Does this sound like needing a new ipr only?
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I don't know what's going on maybe some body can shed a little light on this. If you hold the brake pedal down for a long period of time you can feel the pedal slowly go to the floor. So no problem I'll change the master cylinder bleed everything brand new fluid. Don't drive it much we let the sister in law drive it we'll I jump back into it the other day to go to Home Depot and once again I notice it still does it. Could the hydra brake booster be bleeding by or what's else could be causing this it's driving me insane. I really can't imagine the hydra booster causing a problem but it's new to me. I was thinking about bleeding the brakes again thinking there maybe there's air but I have run 2 bottles of brake fluid through how much more??
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