So last week I installed a 6" lift and once we got it done I could barley turn right at all. So I decided to put a drop pitman arm on yesterday with a buddy, thinking that was the issue. But I still have the problem, and I very badly need to fix it and don't know what it is. Turning left is completely fine however. It feels like I'm trying to steer an 18 wheeler right now.
View 6 RepliesPut in 2.5" leveling blocks under front coil springs. Now I hear a clunk nearly every time I turn to the right. Why this might be?
View 3 RepliesLooking to upgrade my tires and would like to go a hair bigger but nothing radical. I have the 20's now, what's the biggest size I can go to with no lift.
View 2 RepliesI have a fabtech 4 link 6" lift on a 2008 6.4. The lift kit used to sit level but the front is sitting lower now. How can I fix this?
View 10 RepliesSo I'm getting a mild to severe shudder depending on load and acceleration rate from stop to 10-15mph... It's worse if I'm on an incline...This has started since having a lift installed...I'm guessing it has everything to do with pinion angle...right?
1999' F350 7.3L 4x4
Crew Cab Long Bed
I finally got my lift installed the other day from PMF. My question is how do I get my pinion angle corrected on the front drive shaft? I know Trevor sells a Tcase clocking adapter may have to go that route IDK Unlike the rear there's only so much pitch you can put on the front axle until it causes issues with steering. I was thinking of going with an aftermarket front drive shaft designed to handle harsher angles.
I live in the mountains and after installing the lift and pulling a trailer on some of theses steeper gravel roads I can feel a harshness or something coming from under to front of the truck. I'm unable to post pics since I'm back on the road but I can visually see the front drive shaft angle is definitely not in line like it was.
I'm currently running PMF 2.5 alpha with a 1'' spacer and 3 link kit up front and 5'' progressive leafs and traction bars out back. I was able to fix my rear shaft angle using shims on my carrier bearing ( not really a big fan having 1 1/2'' of stacked shims BTW ) ....
I have a 02 f250 powerstroke and I wanna put a suspension lift kit on it I wanna go with a 6 inch lift but I'm afraid if I go any higher than a 4 inch I'll have to change to much. What I would have to change and if I would have to extend any of my brake lines also the truck is a cab and a half with an 8 foot bed so I do have a carrier baring on the drive shaft would I have to change anything with that?
View 14 Replies2003 f250 6" lift on 35s. How to lift the suspension to change out spring bushings? Was thinking using two chain falls on tow hooks on the front, any easier, safe, cheaper way. I have a farm jack but need to weld a plate on bottom of it for more support...
View 5 RepliesI got to replace mine because the hood won't stay up on it's own and is heavy to lift. I was wondering if these things fail often. Mine is an '08.
View 5 RepliesJust installed a 4" lift sunday, with a BDS drop pitman arm and then i retorqued it to 185 ft/lb. I now have this extremely low speed (<2mph) or stopped clunking whenever i turn the wheel. I just replaced the upper and lower tie rod that goes from the pitman arm, and its still doing the same thing. Steering box is shot?
Clunk after lift install - YouTube .....
When installing front lift shackles, do you place jack stands under the axle, or the frame? I can't really find an answer. I assumed the axle, but i saw a thread and from what i could see it looked like it was supported at the frame and the axle was hanging free in the air. Just want to be sure before i start unbolting the stock shackles tomorrow and kill myself.
View 14 RepliesTruck details:
2008 f350 6.4 290,000 klm
DPF and full EGR delete
K&N intake
IDP custom street tune
Loud squealing noise that happens when cold or at temp.
2000 to 2500 rpm's to 3000 rpm then it goes away
Happens only when accelerating over 50% anything under and the noise doesn't happen.
15 to 20 pounds of boost
Turbo sounds good
No codes
All plumbing looks sealed and tight
Fuel coolant res is full and clean
I'm thinking it could be the lift pump dying or having trouble supplying the fuel demand. Started after I did the cold air intake....
I bought a 2004 F250 super duty 4x4 with the 6.0 a couple weeks ago and have a few questions. Hopefully all of these things are normal, but I thought I would ask you experienced drivers.
1) Occasionally while driving when I lift off the accelerator pedal I can hear a sort of loud rattle under the hood. I assume this is the turbo shutting down? Is that normal?
2) 4x4 and locking hubs... I have the 4x4 hi and low switch on the dash. Do I need to also manually lock the hubs to go into 4x4? After reading the manual it seems like I can just turn the dash switch and they should automatically lock, but I'm not sure. The hubs are not marked, but going by the pictures in the manual I think I know which is "lock" and which position is "auto" or off.
3) Front wheels hop at full turn. I expected wheel hop in 4x4 or with the hubs locked, but even in 2WD with the hubs in the auto position the tires still "hop" or knock a bit at sharp turns. Is this normal?
want to raise the front of my 99 f250 super duty. I only found rough country for my options. I am looking for a 2-3" lift. Will the 3" lift spindles work fine? What else am i going to need? Shocks?
[URL].....
2000 v10 f350 single tank...fuel gauge is stuck on full. I'm on the road so I don't have my drawings so I tried some quick troubleshooting. If I remember right 160k or so is full and 20k ohms is empty...so I unplugged the sender from the harness which should be open and the gauge should read empty. With key on its reading full. I then followed the harness and unplugged it near the brake booster...key on it reads full. Just wanted to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong before I rip the dash apart.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2005 F350 6.0 with 4 wheel drive.
Late last winter, the 4WD stopped working. I diagnosed it to be a vacuum problem. Like a moron, I purchased a vacuum pump and threw it in there, I just figured that it was bad. It turns out the new pump I bought was bad, but the old pump was fine... Go figure. At any rate, when I switch to 4WD, my HVAC goes to full defrost and the 4WD does not engage.
I think I've narrowed the problem down to the 4WD actuator, since if I hook the vacuum pump output directly to the hubs, the 4WD works fine. If I switch it into 4WD, I can hear the vacuum releasing in the actuator, but it doesn't seem like any vacuum actually gets routed to the hubs. It just opens to atmosphere.
I've noticed that after switching to 4WD, the actuator only "Releases" the vacuum for a few seconds, and then seems to close itself. Is this normal? If I cycle the 4WD selector from 2WD to 4WD repeatedly, it will continue to cycle.
1. Is there any way to service this valve, or should I replace it?
2. Is the valve acting normally?
3. Am I on track with this repair?
Buddy has '96 Dump Truck. I think it is an F650 but there a no markings. It is small as dump trucks go, but has air brakes and an automatic transmission.
The speedometer goes back and forth full scale as if a speedometer cable were bad. Problem with that is, my buddy says it has an electronic speedometer.
About the only thing I can think of that would cause that problem is the Vehicle Speed Sensor.
I have a 2000 ford F 250 with V-10 engine with fuel gauge stuck. The problem started in the winter a couple years back on a cold night when I fueled the truck with it running. The fuel gauge never went down. I assume this would indicate a stuck float? I dropped the tank and noticed a loose yellow wire. I can't see that the wire was attached anywhere though? A V-10 is not the engine to be guessing with on fuel...
View 1 RepliesThis has just started this past weekend out of no where.I went to accelerate up a hill and when it got to around 2500 rpms it just starts acting like a rev limiter kicks in.When i let off throttle it smooths out and runs fine, seems anytime its past quarter throttle it doesnt not want to move anywhere.If you drive normal in city conditions or on a nice flat round with barely any throttle it runs fine.I replaced the fuel filter no change, removed air filter no difference.Its actually at the shop now and they say its a transmission problem, my opinion i disagree fluid is up, no burning smell, and shifts fine under normal (slow) driving. 2001 Super duty 5.4 triton....
View 14 RepliesI have a 2012 f250 6.2L gas that the check engine light, low fuel light and the fuel gauge says it's empty. The truck has a full tank of gas. I am in camp for another 2 weeks and my girlfriend is driving the truck. I am thinking a blown fuse or disconnect the battery to reset the computer could solve it. Hoping it's something I can instruct her to do on her own over the phone.
View 13 RepliesSo I just got an 01 f250, 5.4. Really loving this truck so far. Noticed as I was driving my gas gauge is stuck at full. One time it randomly dropped down to about half tank where I think it should be, but it jumped back up to full. Anything to suggest trying? I tried nailing a speed bump to knock the float loose at 30 and I'm not sure if it worked. Gauge goes to E when I shut the truck off, but as soon as I turn it on it jumps up to full. Should I try hitting the tank with a mallet?
View 6 Replies