Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: P0300 Code And Various Misfire Codes For Random Cylinders
Jun 26, 2015
New plug on right, lower bank 2 plug on left
Started getting a P0300 and various misfire codes for random cylinders. Truck has 95,000 kilometers so figured I would change the plugs. Several of the plugs on the lower bank on both sides were pretty much toast. Most of the plugs on the top looked good. All of the plugs had a small deposit where the spark hits the ground probe. Picture is typical plug from lower side. changing the plugs should make a big difference in how she runs and eliminate the codes.
Took right on 4 hours same as dealer said it would. I would have got it quicker but it was not a race.
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1999 F-250 V10 .... Truck was running perfectly fine except for a random high idle sometimes when put into park but if I gave it a good rev it would drop back down to normal. I assumed it was a dirty IAC or something and figured I'd get around to it later kinda deal. I also had a coolant leak from what I thought was the intake manifold to head gasket on the drivers side right in the front where the upper radiator hose meets the intake manifold so i added water here and there no issues.
One night I need to pull a trailer and didn't have the wiring set up for it in the back so I stopped at advance auto and bought one of those kits that plugs into your brake wiring harness and then plugs into the trailer. I tested it in the parking lot with the trailer and it was all sorts of messed up. My reverse lights stayed on my brake lights didn't work either etc. Turns out it was for the wrong years but plugs matched up coincidentally. I returned the kit and drove home just fine.
Next morning on my way to work truck started misfiring like crazy idle was bouncing all over the place lack of power etc. I took it to advance again after work even though no check engine light came on I still pulled 2 codes. P0300 which is multiple random misfire (no specific bank) and a P0401 which is an EGR Insufficient Flow code. I took it by a local shop I get my oil down at and they told me it was probably the fuel pump that they go bad in these trucks alot.
So I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel filter. Nothing changed so I thought maybe that coolant leak had dripped down to the plugs or possibly the intake gasket was getting worse and leaking coolant into the air flow ports since it was thought to already be a problem. So i pulled everything off the top and firgured id go through it all why I had it apart. I replaced the intake gasket but noticed when i took it apart that it wasnt the gasket that the head it self had a small pin hole leak in the very front where the coolant fed into below that upper neck that bolts to the intake manifold. I patched it with jb weld/ quick steel/ and rtv. Yes I know it wont last but just for the time being until I figure out the main issue. Replaced the plugs with motocraft plugs checked all my coils for grime and corrosion or what not and they all seemed fine and cleaner than expected. replaced the gaskets and threw it all back together. I also cleaned out the EGR and IAC with air and brake cleaner etc.
Blew all my lines out with air and everything seemed fine. I also replaced my DPFE sensor. Started it up ran fine at idle for like 5 min no coolant leaks or anything so I thought I was golden then about 500 ft through the neighborhood on a test drive the exact same misfire came back doing the same thing with the idle etc. I'm going to check my fuses tonight but I'm starting to think that maybe when I plugged in that wrong wire adapter for the trailer that I may have screwed up something with the PCM. Only because the lights were all out of wack and literally the next morning I started having these issues. I'm lost if its not a fuse. I would really hate to buy a PCM and not need it especially after all the parts I've bought and not needed already.
The vacuum lines all seemed fine and intact as well with no cracks or leaks.
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99 F-250 SD 6.8 had an issue with it while moving from Del to Phx, Az. Found collapsed air cleaner element. It looked like someone stepped on it. I replaced it as well as the MAF. This fixed the issue. This was 350 miles into the trip. The truck seemed to be down on power as it didn't want to pull my trailer up any type of grade except with OD off. Around 2K miles into the trip in developed a random misfire with no codes. I am at my final destination and the misfire is worse. I am not showing any codes at all or pending either. It is a bit toasty outside to be out there diagnosing issues, and I won't start changing parts randomly either. I have a NGS scan tool with the proper cards.
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I have a 2002 F250 SD V10 4x4, that just started to randomly misfire [does not matter if the vehicle is in motion or in park]. I scanned the OBDII and found pending code P0720 (Output Speed Sensor). The CEL, O/D light, nor the ABS light illuminate. The speedometer functions normally.
This occurred Saturday after we got 12-18" of snow. I cleaned out the driveway, took a short drive (~ miles) & parked the truck (no symptoms). Later we went to 2 stores and then on the way home, the misfire started. The next day the misfire continues.
I have been searching & come up with the same posts that say the issue is not the OSS. It's usually a bad COP or bad wiring @ the OSS. The symptoms are not the same as when I had a COP go bad (only misfired under load between 1500 & 2500 rpm).
Personal issues: My truck does not fit in my garage, it's dark (and usually below 30 F) before I can get to look at it in the evening. Also, we are supposed to get another foot of snow tomorrow night.
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My 07 3.3 SF is throwing P0154 and P0300 codes. Autozone said the P0154 is Bank 2 pre-cat O2 sensor. But exactly which one? The P0300 is random misfire. Could they be related?
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I have a 2010 F250 with the V10 and 42000 miles. Lost*power*while pulling a trailer. Couldn't get over 30 mph. Tried turning back home and lost all*power*and would barely idle. Fuel filter good air filter good. Code P0300 came up. Towed it back to the house and then couldn't even get it to idle. Wouldn't throttle up past about 2800 rpm. Cleaned MAF sensor and nothing. Somewhere during all that P0174 code came up and misfire cylinder 10. Cleared codes and they haven't come back. Now when trying to crank, it barely turns over, yet battery is good. Opened air filter cover after getting it to start one time and there was some light smoke coming out. Also while barely keeping it running for a little bit, the catalytic converter on the driver side was fire hot and the other side I could grab with my hand.
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Truck Specs:
2008 f250 super duty 5.4l
78xxx miles
4x4
Automatic
Issue:
P0300 (random misfire detected)
P0307 (cylinder 7 misfire)
Let's start from the beginning...
I was getting the notorious 5.4l ticking sound. After doing research on this issue. I found that it could be a few different issues including:
Cam Phasers
VCT solenoid(s)
Loud injectors
Valves
Exhaust leak
Loose spark plug
The list could possibly go on, but these being top concerns or issues to look into.
I took it to my mechanic and wanted him to research the ticking problem. This was my primary concern due to it was getting worse over time. I didn't want to do more damage than what was possibly already done. I told him to go ahead and change the spark plugs while you're checking into what's going on. (I know those plugs can break and I didn't want to do that.)
At any rate... the plugs got changed to motocraft brand (I know the trucks can be finicky with the parts you put back into them so I went with the motocrafts to avoid any complications.) After the plugs were changed, he told me that the ticking was caused from a blown exhaust manifold gasket (yay me... not internal parts or anything too serious. Sweet!)
I had to reschedule to get the gasket done, but knowing what it was now I wasn't too concerned about driving it. So I did. The new plugs are also in the truck at this time. I drove it the next day and right away.. I noticed a misfire. Thought maybe the plug was bad. I told my mechanic about it and he said... Sounds like a COP to me.
So I get a new COP. Okay.. easy fix. Installed it and still got a misfire. Told my mechanic and he said get another COP. So I'm thinking.. "Okay.. get a new part to fix a new part.. sounds logical.. lol" so I do what he thinks might be best. I replace the COP with another new one and it's still misfiring. The new cops are also motocraft brand as well.
Okay... next step.. he claims it may be a VCT solenoid issue. At this point I don't care.. I just want my truck fixed. So he replaces the driver side solenoid. Still misfiring..
So after doing some research on the scanner... we locate some issues that are the exact symptoms I'm having. Misfire.. at low rpm.. during cruise control.. and a sudden at idle.
This information states for this drivability issue.. to spray injector cleaner/carb cleaner into the engine and possibly clean it out. Makes sense. He did this as well as changed the fuel filter. Also did a pressure test on the injectors to make sure they were good. They were. After spraying and cleaning it out, it was taken for a test drive and it seemed okay... but not perfect. The next day.. the misfire came back.
He said that if the misfire returns, that I need to contact the dealership and see if there is a pcm update. The dealership said there probably is but can't tell me until the computer is hooked up to it. (Of course there is a charge when it's hooked up) again.. whatever.. I just want it fixed. The truck is scheduled to go in next Wednesday for that. If that doesn't fix it, my mechanic said cam phasers possibly bUT still not sure for sure..
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'02 TB w/ code P0300 / Random misfire. Started the other day when it was very damp out, FWIW. Feels like ur driving on rumble strips during acceleration. Rough idle also. It does not do this continually though as after a while (minute) it clears up and runs smooth for a while then runs rough & light will again for a while. I seafoamed it today since it been about 60k since last seafoam. I thought that might have worked until I drove about 20 mile and it went rough again. I also cleaned the oil out of the cam sensor elect connector, since that caused rough running before, although it didn't throw that code. It seems to be very intermittent. '02 TB, 185k miles, orig plugs changed at 125k. Is it actually just going in & out of a limp-mode? O2 since it's random ???
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Recently i started the car and it was shaking more that usual. the CEL light came stating P0300 with random misfires. It sounds and feels like misfires so i believe this is true.
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2004 GMC Sierra 2500 HD, 227,000 miles 6.0L V8.
While driving up hills or increasing load, the CEL will flash multiple times, I pull over as I know CEL flashing is not good. I turn the truck off, allow it to sit for a few minutes, whip out the code scanner, only code that was there happens to be P0300. Truck has poor MPGS, idles rough, loss of power. this happens every time I drive this vehicle as I use this truck to pull my trailer that weighs around 4000 lbs. Problems come and go. Some days I can drive the truck for an hour with no problems, come up to a red-light, BAM, CEL is flashing, truck is bouncing side to side due to the poor idle, other days this happens while sitting in the parking lot of my job with the ac on.
Truck has been to the shop several times as I'm no mechanic. Parts replaced are as follows:
- Fuel pump
- Throttle Body
- All plugs
- All wires-All Coils
- Intake Manifold Gasket-
- Battery
- Sensor 1 Bank 1 O2 Sensor
- Sensor 1 Bank 2 O2 sensor
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6 when i was driving a couple of days ago the check engine light flashed and after a while it stayed on the codes are P0300 which is a random misfire as well as a misfire in cylinder 2, 4 and 6
I replaced all 6 spark plugs and the 3 spark plug wires still the same issue. The car hesitates when accelerating when i accelerate it looks like it wants to stop the rpm goes to almost zero and then it moves and so on. the rpm goes up and down like crazy.
Sometimes it won't move past 1000 rpm I'm moving 60mph and still on 1000rpm and sometimes it works just fine like there is no issue at all. When idle the car is fine and everything seems normal it stays on 900rpm. The car has 158K miles on it.
I uploaded a video to show you what's happening to the tachometer when I accelerate [URL] ....
I'm on a limited budget I'm thinking of changing the ignition coils but i want to make sure that's what is causing the problem first because i spent 200$ to change spark plugs and wires and the mechanic didn't fix the issue.
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I have a 2000 Impala with a 3800 V6 series 2 with 165,000 miles. The only code I had was a P0300 Multiple random misfire that occured off and on at first, Worse in the city Better on Highway. It would start running on half the cylinders and bogged down, with the check engine light flashing, after getting onto the highway it would straighten itself out at first. I thought i had water in the gas so i ran some heat through it. straightened out for a day then happened again so I thought maybe a should run some premium gas in it, The car ran like total crap until the premium was gone, so i thought maybe it's running too rich, I put 87octane in it and it ran great for a day or two, then it gradually got worse to where it would not straighten up on the highway, tried to die at stoplights and i had to drive it with 2 feet to get it home and park it. I've replaced the battery, spark plugs, wires, ICM checked good, coil packs are good, replaced fuel Pressure regulator, looked for arcing on the spark plug heat shields and it will not start. It turns over but doesn't try to ignite and when I get the slightest rumble of ignition, it backfires up through the manifold and I see a puff of gas or light smoke by the exhaust manifold.
The car had a vacuum leak around the intake manifold cover gasket and a leak on the fuel rail. I pulled the fuel rail off my impala, snugged up the rest of the intake bolts then disassembled the fuel rail, flushed it out and cleaned the injectors the best i could, then reassembled it. before i re-installed the fuel rail I hooked it up to the fuel lines outside of the engine and tried to start the vehicle. all injectors had a nice spray pattern. So i installed the rail and it still didn't start but it had more combustion than before although it's still backfiring like before. Checked the fuel pressure by turning the key on and the fuel pressure went to zero very fast. I blew the rail out with air so to make sure i didn't damage the regulator I replaced it with the old one, ran the test again with same results, so i reinstalled the new regulator. I performed the fuel pressure test a few more times while moving the fuel hoses and when i moved the back supply line the vacuum loss stopped then dropped to zero when i let off of it. So I replaced the fuel line connector and O-rings on the injectors. It no longer has a vacuum leak.
I cleaned the EGR Valve out and had no luck there, then I removed the Idle Air Control Valve-pushed the pintle in, re-ionstalled it and WooHoo! it started! Although it still ran like crap with the same random misfire I was still happy to hear it start.I pulled the plugs on it to do a compression test and all 6 cylinders have between 180-190psi so the engine is in good condition mechanically. I installed new plugs before getting the car restarted and when i removed them for the test they were covered in thick black soot after running for roughly 15 minutes max.
I have (2) 2000 Chevy Impala's so I've swapped sensors from my wifes car to see if it would fix it. I've tested the following MAP, MAF, IAC, coil packs and ECM. None of these made the car change. I believe it is a timing chain because the car has never had a new timing chain and is way overdue, but I haven't had a code for a crankshaft position sensor. Can the timing chain be bad without throwing a code? It's not out of time enough to change the valve timing because I had a good compression test but its not firing right and still has the multiple random misfire. I have not checked or received a trouble code for o2 sensors, crankshaft position sensor or cam sensor. Something has the timing retarded and is dumping extra fuel into the engine because my new plugs looked like they were in the engine for a year.
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Accent GLS. I just got it from a used car dealership (local) and it runs perfectly. It had a misfire code when i first got it, for all cylinders plus the p0300. It went away when i started the engine again, and didnt come back til a month later (Now). now it wont go away.
I went to advance auto and had them use their OBD2 reader for a trouble code and i got p0300, p0301, p0303, p0304. No other codes present.
I am not feeling anything bad, and from what I am told, a misfire feels like a hard shift. This is of course after getting the plugs and wires changes as well as an oil change. Standard preventative maintenance.
The mechanic used OEM parts got from local parts shop. i think the OEM plugs are the copper ones. I would have preferred iridium as they arent that much more expensive but I don't want to pay for another plug change.
The only symptoms I can think of, is that according to google, I should get around 380 miles to a full tank (11.9 capacity, 32 mpg city). I am only getting 280 from full tank to gas light.
I have also gone through a lot of oil. I checked the dipstick and it was below the low line, so i bought a quart of high mileage oil (same exact brand and type of oil that i gave to the mechanic to use) and it went to just above the full line. This was at around 1500 miles after oil change.
After visiting multiple sites about misfires, i found a few things that caught my attention. One is a site called auto service professional, which talks about the OCV for the MC accent. A lot of sites also recommend gaping the plugs at .035.
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My 03 Chev Avalanche is giving me a P0300 code (multiple or random misfire). With no distributor or individual coil is this something I can fix myself or is it shop time?
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Had this code show up after the warning light came on and then the light went away after two day, the car seems to be a little sluggish now. I have read that this is a random engine misfire and it could be a bad plug..
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I know it is a random cylinder misfire code however I started my car in the morning and it was fine I moved it and put it back in my driveway. I started it up later and waited for it to heat up i came back outside 10 min later and my check engine light was flashing and my car was shaking like crazy you could tell the engine was misfiring like crazy. I had under a quarter of a tank but not empty yet. I shut it off and turned it back on and it was still doing it. I drove the mile to the gas station the way it was.
Under partial throttle it was revving to 4500 and over 5, had to let of throttle to make the car shift up a gear. I filled up and started the car again performed fine after that however the check engine light was solid now and still on. I went to my local mechanic and he read that code P0300. I changed my spark plugs that day and they were crap the original spark plugs I have 65,xxx on my car now. Car is smooth now. I cleared check engine when i saw him first and it did not come back on all day even before i changed the spark plugs later that night. Why my light was flashing and why my car was acting like that till i filled up?
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Just started getting a p0300 random misfire code on the durango a couple days ago. pretty sure it isn't moisture related since it started on a nice sunny day. it was running pretty rough so it was obvious that it was misfiring. I changed the plugs since it was about time anyway, and they needed it and I cleared the codes. new plugs (put in the oem champion copper plugs) didn't make the problem go away. The engine still ran rough and the code came back. 2 of the plugs looked like they may have been fouling a little bit. they were a fair bit blacker than the rest of the plugs. I went ahead and changed the coils on those two cylinders and reset the codes again. Still runs rough and the p0300 came back. where do I go from here? I am not getting any specific cylinder codes so it makes sense to me that it isn't one or two cylinders not getting spark. 2003 durango 4.7 ....
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My dads truck started misfiring last week, first thing i did was scan the codes and got p0303, p0304, p0305, p0306, and p0308. Its an 08 F-350 5.4...already changed out the spark plugs and the same codes came back. I decided to do some further testing and so far all coils had spark as well as 12.4 volts going to each. I did check the switching signal and that was present as well.
Moved on to the injectors and i checked each connector with my noid lights and it flashed on all cylinders. Did a resistance check on each injector and they all registered 12.4 ohms. We did switch some coils around and all the same cylinders misfire. My next step is to do a compression test.
My biggest question is if there are any common problems with these engines besides the coils, by the way this truck has the brown coil boots and the spark plugs that dont break in the engine.
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2004 SD ext cab 5.4L Gas ! I have a mis-fire at low RPMs ! Autozone said it kicked out code P0316 Crank Position Sensor ( CPS ) but the CEL was not on ! So I replaced it and Still has the same problem. I checked the coil packs there good according to the autozone diagram "how to" ! I also pulled each wire 2 check the old shade tree way to see if I could tell that way. Now the CEL is on...
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my 03 f250 has a 5.4 and i cant seem to get rid of a misfire in cylinder 3. i had a p0353 code but that no longer shows up. i replaced all the coils with Accel coils, replaced the plugs with motorcraft platinum. i have checked the wire all the way back to the PCM and it checks out. i replaced the pcm with one that has been reprogrammed. i have swapped the injector and coil with another position and still get misfire at #3. Replaced the coil connector with a new one. I have good fuel pressure. I no longer get the code but the misfire is still there, unplug the coil and injector while running and no change. Unplug a different cylinder and you can tell the change. I checked compression and its good. I am lost here!!!!
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I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t 6speed, I recently bought it from a person(my first VW ever) so just trying to fix some things on it, One thing that I'm stuck at is My CEL, it keeps flashing the code P0501 and some random misfire on my cylinders, I have reset it and they keep coming back.
when I put about 10-15% throttle it revs up fine, no misfire or hesitation until the fuel gets cut off around 5500, which is 1k below factory red line, does not hit a thing like the rev limiter where it pegs off the top multiple times just fuel cuts off.
If i put anything above the said pressure the car then begins to misfire and lots of hesitation and that's what causes those codes to go off.
I've been reading many things pointing towards the engine speed sensor or the wiring. Occasionally my fuel/temp gauge quit working but I believe that is a separate issue all together.
So really trying to narrow down what is actually causing my engine to hesitate at low rpm.
Also i might note when I'm in neutral I can go wide open throttle and the car revs fine until the cutoff and only does the bog down when it's under full load. It sorta feels like the possible misfire is due to bad air/fuel but really do not know.
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