Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Power Steering Cooler Line Blown / Loss Of Fluid
Jul 11, 2017
I blew a power steering cooler line yesterday and lost a bit of fluid. Removed and replaced the line, consequently losing most of the fluid in the system (during line replacement). Re-filled the system and now i have great power steering when driving but none at idle. If I bring my RPMs up about 150-200. I get it back in full force. Could my PS pump be on the way out or might this just be air in the system?
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So my 2000 f350 is leaking transmission fluid from the cooler line. It goes to the rear of the transmission, but where does it go to from there?
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Have a 2007 V10 and I want to put in a Magnafine tranny filter. Instructions say to plumb it in to the return line. Which one is this, top or bottom?
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I have a 2008 Ford F250 V-10 Superduty and recently I had a transmission cooler line start to leak. I ordered replacement lines and the tool for the quick disconnect. The line that's leaking is from the radiator to the quick disconnect. I was able to replace the one line, however the second line (problem area) has been a nightmare. The line cracked right at the quick disconnect fitting.
The hard line is tight in the fitting and corroded. broke the tool trying to remove from disconnect. The line is flush with the quick disconnect. How to get that out of the fitting? or another method of fix? Its a hard 1/2 line going into connect crimped to rubber line going to transmission.
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I have a 1999 f350 7.3 diesel. If I apply the brakes when I am not moving it is almost impossible to move the steering wheel. I have flushed power steering system. This problem has gotten worse over the corse of owning the truck for the last 10 years. Ball joints and u joints are good. Had to change power steering cooler a few years back, rusted out line, really got gradually from there.
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I've done all the fluid but the power steering and the coolant. I'd like to change out the power steering fluid in my 08' F350. What fluid do I need ?
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I have power steering fluid leaking out of the bottom of the Brake master cylinder out of a round hole. Every time I pushed brakes it leaks a good amount of power steering fluid out. Why it would do this and is there a screw missing out of the hole or what?
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OK so my 2001 F250 was leaking power steering fluid from the lower portion of the gearbox (where the pitman arm attaches).
I found a thread on this forum where it showed how you could change the seals out WITHOUT taking the gearbox out.
So I got the pitman arm off with a heavy duty puller. Then I scraped out the 1st rubber seal hoping to reveal a snap ring behind it. Well, the seal is 99% scraped off, but there is not evidence of a snap ring. It does seem like there is some metallic ring holding another rubber seal in behind it. But again, I can't find the little open spots that you put your snap ring pliers in to get snap rings out.
How do I get this metallic thingy out???? I already broke a small drill bit trying to drill it out. It just doesn't seem like the best way to go about it.
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I just replaced my 3rd HP power steering line last night( 3rd in 300K, always blows the same point....fitting comes apart where it attaches to the pump.
I'll start, mine have gone about 100K plus or minus 10K, almost thinking about making it a 100K maintenance item.
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I'm wanting to get a single in-line steering stabilizer for my '05 F250 4x4, but I can't seem to find any that include brackets.
I don't need a dual setup because I'm not running a big lift or big tires, but I want an inline stabilizer so that I can just leave the stock one in place.
What is the part number for one that comes with the mounting brackets?
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I have an 03 F-250 4 wheel drive with the 6.0. For the last 3 months or so I have been having some issues with the steering system and I am not quite sure what it could be or what too look for. I have already replaced the power steering pump due to the shaft seal leak on my old one. After that I noticed that the truck would never really center the steering up on its own like it used to and that it pulled in either direction depending on which way you steered it. I then decided that I would replace the steering box on the truck. I replaced it with a Napa one. Right after that I had it on the alignment rack and the guy said it was not even out of alignment. As I continued to drive the truck it continued to pull in either direction whenever you took a hard turn in either direction. Then one night coming home from work, I was pushing it a little hard, the truck pulled itself across the center line. The steering wheel and all turned to the left. It did this 5 or so times in a row. I am also noticing some issues with my lock outs but don't know if it is tied to the same issue with the steering.
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I have 2002 F150 5.4L gas 4X4 Lariat FX4. Last winter when it got to -30C here in Manitoba one of the lines near the power steering cooler began to leak. I had just bought this truck and upon investigating found that the original line had been replaced and reattached with hose clamps. I had this "farmer fix" redone but then this winter when it hit -30C it blew apart. Obviously something happened to this line before I got it, so I am curious if there is an issue with these power steering cooler lines when it gets really cold. Should I just get factory lines installed and hope for the best?
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I replaced the steering gear box in my 06 F250 CCLB 6.8 over the weekend with a reman Cardone. The old gear box had what I can best describe as a chatter/binding if you rocked the wheel back and forth, that's gone now. I sucked out as much fluid as I could, then filled the reservoir several times while the fluid ran out, what came out was very cloudy and gritty, guessing the old box was chewing itself up.
Can't seem to find a straight answer - what fluid SHOULD this have in it?
Sounds like I should have used Mercon, looks like I grabbed Type F instead. Could that cause the steering effort to be extremely light? I mean like ridiculously light, tip of your pinkie barely touching and turning the wheel light?
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One of my work trucks is a 99 F-250 5.4L. Up until recently it's been running strong. Then one day it's like someone flipped a switch, and now it runs like it's losing power.
Symptoms: a quick short stumble when you first hit the accelerator. While driving, it takes the entire pedal to accelerate. Even with the pedal to the floor, it won't keep up with traffic. Driving uphill, it will barely maintain 40 mph.
I've checked everything I can think of. Fluids and filters are all good. Battery and alternator are good. There are no trouble codes. I have Autoenginuity with the Ford Bundle, and the truck passes every diagnostic test I throw at it.
There's no smoke. It still idles pretty smooth, although there is a slight and very quick random shudder in the idle that has started at the same time it started losing power.
Transmission is good. The last thing I tried was to change the fuel filter, but that made zero difference. Quick question, does the tank on the 5.4L trucks have a pickup screen like the diesels? If so, I might try blowing some compressed air through the fuel line and see if it dislodges anything.
So that's where I'm at. It has no power, yet I can't find a single thing wrong with it.
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I have a 99 F-250SD with 5.4 automatic that just all of a sudden started running unevenly at random times, but frequently. There is a pending code P0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire. I have had the truck for 12 years and it has run perfectly for the last 10+ years and just started this problem, it did not come on slowly but all of a sudden. I have seen on here that some people say that 90% of the time a PO300 is a bad cop. I replaced the plugs 60k miles ago when I had a bad coil on plug 10 years ago that did not set any codes, but this seems very different that more than one cylinder seems affected, like maybe 2 or more cylinders are not firing momentarily.
There is a big power loss momentarily while it happens, but doesn't happen for long. The fuel pressure stays pretty constant (30 psi at rail) even while it happens, and it can affect the idle as well as while accelerating or cruising at speed. I cant imagine more than one coil on plug would be skipping at the same times or fail at the exact same time, but maybe having only one bad cop could cause this much hesitation? Does the code that indicates random/multiple cylinder misfire rule out only one bad cop? It just seems like running on 7 cylinders wouldn't be so noticeable. Could a sticking egr valve cause unevenness at idle and higher rpms and set a P0300 code? Would checking manifold vacuum be they way to see if egr valve is not working correctly.
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So I'm not sure if I bought a lemon, but i picked up a F-350 6.4 Turbo Diesel two days ago and the check engine light came on yesterday. It's giving me a P0088 Code as well as the P0088pd. It's got 131,000 miles on it so no warranty will cover me.
I'm tracking the TSB put out telling the techs to replace the HPFP, but they mention a loss of power. I've only had the truck for two days, but I've driven them for work before and I can't detect any loss of power. Besides the code, everything seems to be running fine.
What can I can try out before running out and changing the HPFP? I'd rather not cut so deep into my savings if I don't have to.
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Last night, I left it running while unloading a trailer and come back to notice it was idling abnormal. I jumped in it and tried to move it and there was a noticeable loss of power. I unhooked the trailer and tried to get it home. I only made it 1/2 mile down the road when it started spitting and sputtering (surging ever now and then) to a level that it died completely. I was able to start it back and get it out of the road but had to be pulled into a drive. It got to a point it wouldn't start back at all.
Today it started up however still had a rough idle and really has no power to speak of. The more I messed with it the less power it seem to have.
I have searched the forums and tried these things:
1) Checked the oil and noticed it was on the low end of the operating range. I put some in it to put it back to normal.
2) Disconnected the ICP
3) Changed the crankshaft position sensor
4) I dumped the fuel bowl after it completely died (in case it had any water in the fuel bowl).
The fuel filter was just changed 2 weeks ago. The fuel pump seems to be operating correctly (or it at least refilled the bowl) and started again with a very rough idle.
It doesn't have a engine light on nor do I have anything to read any codes it may be showing.
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I have a 2004 f250 superduty. I lost all electric to truck. No lights, radio, etc. Turn key and no click or dash lights. I put a charger directly to battery and nothing. Is there a main fuse in power line prior to the fuse box under the dash??
Also, right before this happened, I went to start my truck and my batteries were low, the truck turned over a few times, started dying, so I turned the key off, and the truck kept turning over on its own, as if the circuit remained closed for ignition due to low battery, and it turned over by itself until the battery was completely dead. But putting my battery charger on it now gives me no electric at all.
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Got a 2001 7.3 crew cab long bed over the winter and over the last week I have some electrical issues.
Leaving work I had a dead battery(s) or so I though. first though the batteries are going or the alternator going. Its a manual so i had a friend pull me to bump start it and everything was as it should. The volt gauge came right up and checked the alternator and it was OK.
Later on while driving the radio turned off and I could not get it to turn back on. At the time I didn't notice if the other cabin accessories were working
(didn't think to take notice). So, turned around a drove straight home. Once in my drive way I shut the truck off and right away turned it back on and the radio came back. I didn't know what to make of it so I just let it be.
The next morning I went to start the truck, Wait to start light went out and when I turned the key. Just a click. and the instrument panel goes dead along with all the other cabin power. when i open the door the turn signal starts clicking. So I took the batteries out (thinking that something is staying on inside the cabin and draining the batteries). I charged them at work came to find that they are holding a charge.
My issue was most definitely the GEM. So i took that out sent it to Florida and got it serviced. When got it back today and ........Same thing. I am at a loss here. Am in looking at the right things? What should I be looking for?
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Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
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I have a 2004 F250 Super duty that had a battery die (I left the keys in the ignition switched on overnight) and after jumping the battery off the vehicle started up but now I have no power door lock or window functions. Any reason a dead battery issue might affect the power locks and windows?
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