Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Real Wheel Flopping Around - Wheel Studs?
Sep 20, 2008
Heard a thumping yesterday as I'm getting on the highway at rush hour. I looked in the drivers mirror and I see my rear wheel flopping around. I had sheared off 6 of the 8 studs. After towing it home I pulled the wheel and tapped out the broken studs. I've never done this before so I'm a bit unsure as to how I get the new studs in. The drum brake assembly is behind the rotor and even if I pulled all that out it still doesn't look like I have enough room. Did I just discover this job is bigger than I thought?
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I 'm looking to replace my manifold studs in my 2005 V10. Looking to replace with bolts. Would like someone who has done this to chime in with what they have had success using for bolts. Size length grade etc.
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So...I'm dealing with a leaking passenger side exhaust manifold on my 2001 F250 SD. (Extended cab, long bed, 5.4 XLT.) Been slowly making progress on getting the manifold bolts off (the ones that weren't broken already at least.) Got all the top row off and the flange free yesterday, today was on to the bottom row.
I undid the 2 bolts on the PS motor mount studs and carefully jacked up the motor to lift that side a bit. I couldn't figure out anywhere else so I put a piece of 2x4 under the oil pan and used that point to lift up with the truck's bottle jack.
Worked well enough, but when I decided to call it a night I lowered it back down. Looking at one of the studs that I could watch as I moved it, the mount came to rest about an inch and a half away from where it started. (Higher up on the slant.)
How much does this matter? If the position is critical, how can I go about getting it back to the starting point?
I have a feeling the fact that I'm working in my uneven, unloved driveway had a lot to do with this. The passenger side is raised slightly and on a jack stand. Just enough to get the wheel on and off for access through the well.
On a positive note, I only have one more bolt to remove to free the manifold, the one right above the mount. I couldn't get anywhere with my nut extractors so I finally started grinding away at the nut with my Dremel. Should be able to get the old manifold off tomorrow and start working to get the studs out.
My Irwin Bolt Grips worked a treat combined with a MAP Pro torch on the others, but not so much on the hardest to reach one. Go figure. For starters there just isn't enough room to get a good solid hammer blow on it to seat it, and to make things way more complicated for some reason that particular location had more exposed stud length, so I couldn't get it all the way on to the nut and still get a ratchet wrench into the other end too.
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So just as I think I have it figured out what size tire and wheel combo I want to go with, I began thinking about going from an 18" wheel to a 17". I can save some cash, have a few more tire size options and save on tire weight.
I know alot of guys go up to a 20" setup but that's just not my preference on trucks.
Any negative to doing this? 315/75/17 tire size interests me. Had that on a Wrangler and liked the look. Going to look a little more at 17" sizes before deciding.
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The 2011 have been out for awhile now. How about some of you with the 6.2L engines sharing your gas mileage. I have not seen anything but better than last year's model in advertisements.
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Checked the EOF vacuum lines and pump but still have a problem. The EOF works and locks the hubs when I switch to 4x4 high, Easy to feel when you turn the wheels but it will not go into low. The light on the dash does not light up the word "low".
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When I shift into 4Lo I get no 4 wheel drive. 4Hi works. Did have a/c redirect to defrost a couple of times. I remember something about the air redirecting having something to do with not having 4x4 but don't know just what it was.
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I just put a new front driver side wheel hub assembly on last week and i discovered two things. The metal plate that goes in behind the wheel hub assembly needs replaced but idk what it is and i need a new axle seals. But when i put the new hub assembly on, the abs light came on and i cant seem to figure out why? Also my front drivers side of the truck is still making a clunk noise when i hit a bump. Input on that too?
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I seem to be having a issue on take off with my new Super Duty, it has the michelin atx2 tires than come on these trucks. On any hill or grade on take off she just spins and traction control flashes on dash, what the heck? Do I need to pull out the 4x4 switch to engage the e-locker so this thing will move? Seems crazy to have to put her into 4wheel when there is only a inch of snow on the ground... My 6.0 did this sort of due to all the torque it had, but that had those crap Contitracs on it till I swapped them for BFG at..
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Recently bought a 2015 f250 xlt.....very impressed with it. Only thing is the wheel feel and look to small. What is the largest size i can run stock? Will 35/12.5 fit on stock 17 wheels or should i just spring for aftermarket rims at the same time? Also exhaust options for the 6.2? Remember, i need load range e!
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I recently bought some used rockstar 1s off a buddy, installed new tires, balanced, put tapered lug nuts on and I'm still getting a slight vibration above 40mph. Do I need hub centric rings? XD says no, I think I do.
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Got a problem with my F350 diesel truck's braking system. I pull a 5th wheel and last trip almost burned my breaks up coming down long hill due to having no breaks on the 5th wheel. Had a problem early on with the lack of trailer brakes and module was replaced under warranty. Bought a new module this time and it did not fix the problem. Have braking power when I use the module brakes (Hand) but not when I hit the foot brakes. Have checked the system with a meter and have good voltage with hand break but not with foot brakes. Have a good meter (voltage) read with hand breaks and faint read with foot brakes applied. Also have a faint pulsing read on test light with no brakes at all just key on.
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the mechanism that locks the steering wheel is stuck. not the ignition key cylinder (already removed that). how do I release that mechanism to free the steering wheel.
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How can you tell when your wheel bearing/hub assembly is going bad? I am hearing what sounds like "metal-on-metal" and I've already changed the brake pads, but the sound still persists. I was thinking about changing out the brake rotors since I did notice an inch long score on the rotor when I was replacing the pads. I don't want to spend a couple hundred dollars on rotors to find out it was my wheel bearing/hub assembly all along.
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I have a 2004 F250, CCSB, 6.0L, Fx4, Lariat.
I am trying to replace the passenger side front hub. I either have a bad hub, or I am not installing it properly. I have it installed with the locking hub unlocked and trying to turn the hub, the entire passenger side axle spins. It is also very hard to turn it. I strapped axle, and the hub is almost impossible to turn, with or with out the actual hub installed.
This is the second hub that I installed with the same results. I''m not ruling out bad out of the box, but it is the second one I installed today.
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If front wheel bearings can be greased through the abs wire hole on a f250 4X4, will that work on a sealed bearing on a gm product? I have done my f250 but I also have a 2004 suburban.
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So I was backing in to my space at home last night when I hear this loud pop come from the front left. This morning when I left for class, I pulled out and it did the same thing again. I go out and looked under and behind the tire and nothing looked broken or caught.
I watched my tire as I turn the wheel. When I turn to the right, just as the wheel gets maybe 10-20 degrees past straight, it hangs up on something and the wheel pops and releases and continues it's motion. Then as it comes back to center, it hangs up in the same spot and finally breaks free and continues back to center. When it frees up on the return to center, the front end drops some, which makes me wonder if it's something with the suspension. The suspension is old and sags pretty low (I started a thread on that earlier).
While I'm driving, when I turn right, The Pop will happen, but will not pop when I straighten back out. then when I come to a stop, it will free up when I get to about 10mph, and the front end of my truck will literally jump to the left.
Needless to say, I drove home and parked my truck, where it will stay until I can figure out what the heck to do. What it might be? I'd prefer to fix it myself if possible. Its a 2000 F250 V10 2wd. I just replaced the front left caliper a few weekends ago, and the front left inner and outer tie rod end about a month ago. I had it aligned after the tie rod end, and now it is considerably out of alignment. the wheel sits about 45+ degrees to the right of center when I"m going straight.
I am extremely frustrated because of all of the stuff that has been popping up since I bought the truck. When I have the chance to go home in a few weeks after school lets out, the truck will be going straight to MY mechanic to have it looked over.
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Seems that after a sharp right turn, for instance turning right at a stop sign I'll get a loud pop that I can feel in the floor pan under my feet.
After the pop the steering wheel and whole front of the truck will shift left and right like someone is grabbing the wheel, sometimes violently. If I drive slowly it will cure itself and sometimes not do it again for several days. I've check ball joints and hubs and they are in great shape. I pulled the hubs and greased the needle bearings about 6 months ago. I checked all steering components and the linkage that attached to the steering arm had some play so I replaced it. Then I found that some idiot took the steel sleeve out of the bushing in one end of the steering stabilizer. I bought a new stabilizer and cured a pop I'd had since I got the truck, but the other issues were not solved.
Alignment has been checked too.
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My truck has developed a wobble in the steering wheel. I don't mean when you are driving down the road, but the steering wheel wobbles around. It wobbles in any position that the Till shaft is set to. How to repair.
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1. Why does my front end hop when only turning right in 4 wheel drive?
2. O nly one of my back tires spin, so does that mean that when I put it in 4 wheel drive I only have 3 tires spinning?
oh I got a 2001 xl 5.4 f250 and is this normal
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I have a 2000 F350 4X4 crew cab and have a vibration in the front end. I have done sone investigating and have come to the conclusion that is the front wheel bearings. The dealers says I have to buy the entire hub assemble but I seem to think different. But if I can replace the bearings any special tools that might make it easier ..
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