Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Rear Power Sliding Window Slow To Close
Feb 1, 2013
Ok, so I have been noticing that the rear power window has been slow to close. So today I open it and now it wont close. When I press the button on the dash, I see the cable snap tight and hear the motor turn on so its not a fuse or motor. What I need to replace/fix. I have tried to blow the track out, tried wd40 tried having somebody hold the button while I try to assist it in closing, but none of that worked. It is now half way and wont go any further.
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I did a search and flipped thru the owners manual without any luck. But my 99 Super Duty is equipped with a rear power sliding window but I can't find the dang switch anywhere. Where is it supposed to be located...
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My 2006 F350 has a nasty air leak/whistle coming from the rear power sliding window, unfortunately I found the one of the vertical seals laying in the cab. Looking for some insight on if there is a replacement seal kit, where I can find one and how difficult is it to install?
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I will be pulling apart the back of my crew cab to replace the broken old speakers and run some new wires, thought while I'm in there I should look at the power sliding rear window. The switch has power and the fuse is good, however when pressed, the window won't move. I can move it by hand though.
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I am trying to change out my solid back glass for a power slider that's oem... My question that ford could not answer is, is the wiring all in place minus the switch for the install.. I have a 2012 F250 XLT. I am not even sure where the switch to move the window would go either...
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The rear power sliding window on my 05 6.0 F250 has started to open and close very slowly. I recently had my windows tinted. I checked track and can not see any obstruction. Having problems with their power sliders? Wondering if coincidence or if there is problem with window motor.
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I was using a fluke to test voltage at the connector for the driver visor mirror light when I accidentally crossed leads and heard a pop. Now my Radio, windows, moonroof and sliding rear window are dead. I have checked the 30 amp service (601 fuse), the delay acc fuse (42), delay acc relay, and of course the power windows and radio fuses. None of which are bad and none of which seem to have any power. Is there another relay I should be checking? I have read about the battery saver relay in the instrument cluster but have not ruled it out yet. My dome lights, instrument lights all work. The truck also has a Viper remote start.
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06' CC F-250... Manual rear sliding glass is pretty rough to open and close, other than cleaning out that track, is there a good spot to put a drop of white lithium grease? Do you have to yank off the rear interior panel to clean it out all the way or would a shop vac with a sharp tip do the trick?
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I have a 2006 F250 Super, CrewCab 4 dr, 6.0 w/60K. Last month I tried the rear power window and .......nothing.
It tried to open 1/2 inch and then stopped, had to try to power it closed and it moved 1/4 inch and I pushed it the rest. Removed the rear cover behind the seats and I can see the motor and wires attempting to move but it does not move and I am afraid to burn the motor out or push too hard and break a cable or worse.
The track looks really dirty, I use that window maybe once every 2 months.
1. Can I replace the motor myself?
2. Can I put something in the track to clean/lubricate?
3. Should I try to open the window under power and some additional manual pushing?
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Trying to replace sliding glass motor, quit working and had to cut the cable to shut it due to the rain. It appears I need to remove the seat belts & covers next.
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I just bought this truck,2013 f250 CC Lariat 4x4. The sliding rear windows opened and closed 1 time and has never done it again. I have read about the motor and cable setup breaking and needing to be replaced. I do not think that is the issue. I have also read that the channel the window runs in needs to be lubricated on a regular basis. I was going to try that first. What is the recommended lube for these window channels?
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damn motor or something broke and of course its fully open. any tricks to disengage from powered sliding system? just need to get by for a bit til i can get to the dealer.
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Ive had this 2009 F250 4x4 Super Crew, 6.4 for 2 years now. Bought it the way it sits with a 6" ProComp lift and 37" Yokohama Open Countrys. Recently, once I get up to 40-45 mph, the rear end starts vibrating violently until I speed up or slow down. There isn't any clanking noise and it's silent. I look in the mirrors to see if it's the tires but they appear to be rotating smoothly. It's never done this before. It's like a tire is out of balance but it shakes much harder than that should be at that speed. It rides smooth as can be at any other speed all the way up to 80 mph which is the faster than i drive. What this could be? I've done searches but can only find info on the front end death wobble which is not the case here.
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once a year i remove all my seats (yes i unbolt front and rear seats and vacuum real good) and when i lifted the rear bench seat back from the rear wall i noticed THIS to some it might not seem like a big deal but to me this is a HUGE problem, i know my trucks a 2004 but whats gonna happen another ten years from now and longer down the road if i don't stop this now? Im gonna have to be buying or making a repair panel for the rear cab thats what! I plan on keeping my truck forever and buy a new truck down the road so i want this one to last, only thing i can think of is the rear sliding window rubber seal is leaking and letting the water get between the two body panels? From outside where the cab corner meets the center body panel piece none of the factory body sealer is missing or cracked so it has to be the rear slider seal?
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If I use ATP AT-205 stop leak to stop a slow leak coming from the rear main seal, will it last a long time? And if it stopped working eventually, would adding more stop the leak again?
Also, I'm going to have the transmission out anyway, so how many hours would it probably take to just replace the seal at that point? And someone told me some seals were two halves that fit together as one, and others are just all one piece. Is that true? It would seem to me that a two piece seal like that would start leaking prematurely.
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How to improve the clothes hooks above the rear window? I find them to be nearly useless for clothes hangers. I searched but didn't find any answers. Maybe there is some other attachment that I'm missing.
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My father has a 04 f350 crew with heated mirrors. It does not have rear window defrost. The mirrors will not defrost, So I checked fuse panel under dash and no bad fuses. We don't have a owners manual so we weren't sure which fuse was for mirrors. What should we check next??? I tried searching forum but couldn't find much about the testing of the mirrors.
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See my sig for truck.
I have 3 kids in the crewcab. 2 are in booster seats, and 1 still riding in a Britax. The 2 in booster seats can buckle their own seat belts in the wife's Odyssey. But they cannot buckle their own in the truck because as they try to push the 2 pieces together, the short 'female' end slides down between the seat and seatback. So I have to buckle them. Every time.
Anything to prevent the female end from sliding down? I'm thinking maybe putting a ~4" long 1-2" diameter piece of tubing around the belts. Something like that.
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My power window on the driver side works. But tops at 3/4 way down. Ivan repulse the button several times to get it all the way down and occasionally it will work on the auto down. But rarely. What's wrong. Probably switch. .. ..
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Truck is a 2011. What about fixing?
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We have a "new" 2010 F150 with factory sunroof & power sliding rear window. Well like the post title says, it'll open but not close.
I took apart the switch & cleaned the contacts - it all looks and fits together as it should. I went ahead and removed the cables controlling the window slider frame to close it. I'm guessing the motor is somewhere behind the back seats?
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