Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Salt On The Dipstick / Manifold Is Leaking?
Mar 9, 2015
04 f250, 5.4 ,90,000mi. Checked my oil today and saw this white flaky crap on the dipstick its salt, probably from a broken dipstick tube, probably broken at the manifold right where there was a huge deposit salt right on top. The manifold is leaking anyway I was hoping to wait till spring when everything dries out and warms up a little bit, but with salt getting into the engine I think I have to do it now. Is there any way to deflect moisture off the road away from the exhaust manifolds?
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I have a early 99 7.3, I have parked it for the winter an I had moved the truck the other day an have noticed it had leaked some oil, after looking for the source I found that it is leaking out of the #7 cylinder exhaust port. I know the oil is forsure in the manifolds usually burns off but now that it is not getting to operating temp it is staying a liquid. Where is this oil coming from?!!
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I have a 2005 f250 5.4 no mods. its got 120k and needs a wake up. the passengers side exhaust manifold is leaking to the point of fixing and would like to get some input before the big purchase. my question is, headers or new manifold, and what brands is preferred for both I really don't prefer one or the other i just want the best fix really. Changing coil pack and getting more performance out of them and if so what brand. I would like a boost in lower end acceleration and throttle response, like a programmer or such. and if so what brand once again.
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Whats the best way to get at the driver side exhaust manifold? I have a leak and its tough to get at. Should I remove the tire and inner wheel well?
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Just did a drop an refill of my trans fluid. Put in a little under 8 qts.
My question is where should the fluid read ? Is half way between full and E good or should it be right up to the line ?
Obviously I'm reading it while trans is warm and in nuetral, engine running
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The dipstick tube on my 5.4 snap and ive ordered a new one. it looks like it may not be to hard to replace.
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My 2016 Ford F-250 has 14,000 miles on it. I took it in for its second oil change today and came away with big problems. When the mechanic pulled the dipstick out he found it covered with a guncky dirt like material. He said he had never seen anything like it. He changed the oil and checked it again with more gunk coming out. I drove it to the nearest Ford house where a mechanic pulled the dipstick out and found the same thing. He said that he had never seen anything like it. Every time he pulled the dipstick out, it had more coated on it.
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OK, so I have a 01 f350sd and i went to check my oil and the dipstick tube itself is so rusted it snapped in half so I took it to the dealer which I knew was going to be over priced labor but still checked the tube itself is 20 dollars but labor is upwards of 300-500... My engine is the 5.4 triton.
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I just finished putting a 7.3 back in one of our f450 plow trucks today, so then i moved onto our 2001 F250 5.4 plow truck. The dipstick tube was rusted in half so i pulled on the remaining half to get it out and put in the new dipstick. However, it broke off at the block. So now i cannot see how to get the rest out with out doing a lot more work. I haven't removed the splash guard yet but will i have to remove the manifold , the oil filter base, or both?
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I had a 2014 F-250 I bought new. Absolutely loved the truck. Things got tight so I decided to sell it yesterday. I'm now looking at a 2005 F-250 with 113k miles. It's got a lift, 37" tires, DPF delete, pretty sure the EGR delete but not sure exactly what to look for under the hood. A ton of LED light bars, SCT tuner, I was told its bulletproofed by a dealer, and it's a king ranch. It runs great. I plan on having a diesel mechanic look it over but here are my concerns. It does have a slight bit of blow by coming from dipstick. Very little. Also a slight oil leak that looks like it's coming from the bell housing so maybe rear seal?
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I started to do my manifold and am 2 and 2. I got 2 out and two broke on top. So far I haven't been able to do anything w the bottom. I have basically seen 2 ways to get the studs out when they break. The first I'd to drill w an ez out and the 2nd is to weld a nut on. I'm not great w a drill and can't weld. I was wondering if using JB weld might be an option. I have never used the stuff but supposedly it's pretty strong. Is there any risk of welding the nut to the head?
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My '08 S.D. (5.4) has a cracked exhaust manifold, which I've heard is fairly common. Crappy Ford design. The local dealer has them in stock (imagine that, just like the 'non-bad' coil caps from some years ago, that they were instructed by Ford to keep at least 10 on stock at all times) for the passenger and driver's side. What are the part numbers?
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The exhaust leak is not too horrible, but, enough that I need to address it soon. Only on the driver's side; (today).
I'm planning on having a lot of PB blaster on hand, torch, broken stud removers, screw/stud extractors (easy outs), ...a hammer. Maybe a few cold Budweisers
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I 'm looking to replace my manifold studs in my 2005 V10. Looking to replace with bolts. Would like someone who has done this to chime in with what they have had success using for bolts. Size length grade etc.
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About to do the exhaust manifold gaskets on my 03 f250.
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I've got a 2006 F250 5.4l. Recently Ive had an issue when I am driving, usually when the engine is at 3k+ RPMs, where the engine will lose power and the cel with blink. Usually it only takes a few seconds for the blinking to stop and the engine continues as normal. Now, I know that at least one of my exhaust manifolds are leaking.
Could it be that the engine is not receiving enough back pressure and that is causing it to lose power? I had a similar issue last year, basically the same symptoms, and it turned out that I had two cylinders misfiring. I replaced the coil packs and that fixed it. This time there are no codes referring to a cylinder misfire. There is a code for EVAP leak (I think), but I was told it was nothing to worry about.
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is there a set of headers for my 2008 f250 5.4 rwd that will install somewhat easily without me throwing tools across the garage? I see a lot more options for the older trucks. I have a pretty annoying exhaust manifold leak and I figure I might as well throw some headers on if im gonna be in there. I really want to go for sound rather than power. I think I saw a set by flowmaster that looked decent.
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2003 F350 short bed 6.8L V10---On start up a slight tap sound, almost like a cranky lifter, but it is an exhaust manifold leak. At the bolts, I am not sure. This has been this way for 5 years, no better no worse. After I run about 2 to 3 minutes it seals itself. Not a hint of noise. Due to heat, something is expanding to seal it (aluminum).
At my annual PA. State Safety Inspection the Tech says 'that has to be corrected if it worsens', but It does not fail inspection. This puzzles me.
How is the call made for correction. A flip of the coin, a guess and is it serious enough to fail inspection. Is this normal with the 6.8L or V10s. I know the cost involved for a fix is big league, but can it be justified. TRUCK RUNS GREAT !---
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Bolts breaking on the exhaust manifold. If so why isn't ford doing a recall on this problem I have a F350 V10 90K miles and 3 on the top drivers side are missing not sure on the passenger side. Is this a problem with all the ford engines I have never had this problem with any other truck or car I have owned.
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I have an 03 F250, 5.4, 4x4, with aprox. 130k miles. I recently had my exhaust manifolds replaced because 1 literally cracked in half. Ever since the replacement, I'm getting worse gas mileage! Im only getting aprox. 250 miles to a tank when before it was well over 325 (highway)...
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1999 F-250 LD 5.4... There is a hole on the back of the upper intake manifold, just below the back of the throttle body, is a vacuum hose supposed to be attached here? Have a serious vacuum leak, no coolant loss, no overheating, just had cop's and spark plugs done, now she backfires, stalls and will not stay running, mech. says its an intake gasket but the gasket and lower intake manifold look new.
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