Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Truck Won't Start But When It Does, Runs Perfect
Apr 19, 2016
So I just bought my first car, a 2003 F250 Super Duty with a 5.4 V8 gas engine with 150,000 miles that I will be using to tow my horse trailer. It has some things I need to fix. The main issue is that it wont start.
When I first went to look at it I tried jumping it, as the battery was dead and I still couldn't start it, though it was turning over. The previous owner then tried jumping it the next day, got it started and met me half way where I bought the truck. Turned it off where we met and it started right up again and I drove it home. It sat in my driveway overnight and then wouldn't start the next day, though it is turning over like before.
The battery is only a month old. There is another sensor issue where they had to disconnect the dash or the truck would randomly stop running. I believe it's the speed sensor? I received the repair reports from the dealer saying "code B1352 in memory for ignition key fault" and they removed an aftermarket remote start. "four U1027 and other U codes found, replaced crankshaft sensor".
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I was plowing snow this morning when all of a sudden I had no 4x4. or should I say VERY little.
I clicked it in and out of 4wd to see if it would re-engage. and Nope. Nothing good. Got out and did a walk around, only to find that my passengers locking hub apparently decided it was a good day to run away from home. (Yes. It is now an empty hole )
Now, before we diagnose why, or where I should preface this by saying that I replaced the wheel hub a while back and the locker fell out after the replacement and had some not perfect gears on it. The locking ring was replaced but obviously that is the culprit somewhere.
So with that being said, I pushed the hub up into a VERY large snowpile someplace. Not exactly sure where and tearing it down is not an option with it's location without being able to re-stack it. (Directly on the side of a main road) So I figure I will just replace it.
So. here is the question. What should i replace it with. Of course this is one of those retarded auto lockers and manual options that seem to work when they want. and ONLY when they want, unless of course they are set to lock.
Should I just get a regular hub? Or is there really a benefit to the Warn replacement kit.
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1999 F250 7.3 240k miles .... This is the second truck to act like this on me after I cleaned the in tank filters.
I had to cut the fpr spring to 30lbs for the truck to start fine cold and idle ok but has no power. When hot it wants to die and or dies at idle and has next to no power. ( I'm guessing from lack of fuel) but it's the only way for me to use it. With a new spring and 60ish lbs of fuel pressure, they won't even start.
I cleaned the in tank filters. New fuel filter. new oil. rebuilt the ipr. unplugged the ipc. no loss of boost. checked my uvch, wiggled all harnesses with no difference. I also tried dropping the tank again in case I pinched the return line but that made no difference.
I'm guessing that I need new injectors. I'm not close to anyone with a computer nor can I afford to throw away any more money at the moment.
Totally stumped and cannot seem to find a definitive answer online so far. Both trucks ran somewhat ok before and got worst once I dropped the tank and cleaned the filters which increased the fuel pressure. This is my second truck to act this way.
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I bought a 2003 F550 Super Duty 4WD, cab and chassis truck. It has a 7.3 TD. Real nice truck. I bought it to turn it into a wrecker. I removed the factory fuel tank (was behind the real axle inside the frame rails.) I installed a 50 gallon aluminum tank behind the cab on the frame rails. The rear tank has to be removed for the wheel lift.
Any way I have everything installed and now the truck dies out after a few minutes. It starts up fine then dies out like its starving for fuel. The tank I installed has a sump pickup (tank came off a freightliner, so its not some home made thing I just welded up in the garage)
I was thinking about installing an auxiliary lift pump as the auxiliary tank is a bit higher than the factory tank, but I want to solve the issue not throw parts at it. I thought at first injectors but it runs perfect after I prime it so my guess is its not the injectors.
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I have an 02 f250 V10 with a rough idle (90K Miles). It's not horrible but it's obviously not running perfect. Everything seems ok when I am up and driving, especially at freeway speeds. I recently noticed that if the truck is in park and I run the RPM's to 1500 or 2K and quickly let off the gas it will die. It never throws any codes. So far I have replaced the IAC Valve, fuel filter, O2 Sensors, PCV valve, cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the air filter. Plugs and boots were replaced 5K miles ago. Fuel trim levels on both banks are running around -3.1 to positive 3.5 based on what the computer is telling me. Also according to the computer the vacuum sits steady around 25 at idle (+ or - .2). I don't have a manual vacuum gauge, just relying on the computer. I've also gone around to every plug and disconnected both the injector wire and the COP wire and they all seem to equally affect the idle as well as the fuel trim levels.
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I bought a 2016 F-250 Lariat, Crew Cab, Short Bed, 4X4, 6.2 a couple weeks ago. One thing I had to have was remote start. My truck was not manufactured with remote start so the dealer installed the Ford 1 way remote start system. The system works fine however the air conditioning fan runs on the lowest speed when remote starting until I put my key in the ignition at which time it reverts back to wherever it was set when I shut the truck down. The whole point of the remote start for me is to get a head start on the truck cooling off but with the fan on low when remote starting it defeats the purpose. How I can change the setting so that when I remote start the fan runs on high? Dealer is clueless and the settings in the truck only allow to turn the system on and off and run time duration.
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I just bought this 99 f250 7.3 Powerstroke last week.. drove it all week fine, I car pool with a family member to work and asked his girlfriend to plug my truck in for me, well she didn't and it had stalled on the way home one morning but started up after cranking a few times i thought nothing of it. Drove it a little bit that day and it was fine, while I let it idle in my drive way as I prepared to go work it started running really rough then died. It took a long time to start again..now it's happening all the time. I changed the fuel filter and someones telling me there's air in the lines..
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Yr 2000 F-150 with V6 . Only 68K miles. 3 weeks ago went into fast food for lunch and then truck would not start. The starter would spin it over real well and plenty of gas etc etc. I came back the next day with a tow truck to take it to the dealer and it cranked and ran perfectly for 3 weeks till yesterday. Same thing. Will not start in parking lot of grocery store.
I only have one key and someone suggested that it could be the chip in the key or the theft system acting up. I only have one key from when I bought the truck 7 years ago used. Someone else said when the anti theft system is screwing up, the motor will be totally dead and starter will not work.
This time I am again planning to tow to the dealer and I fear a huge bill for something that is actually very tiny at fault since the truck runs perfectly well and then mysteriously will not start. This is the 2nd time in 3 weeks I have been stranded. I pulled all the fuses and reinserted. I checked all spark wires and they are in good shape and tight. What could it be that all of a sudden causes the engine to not start up and run intermittently ?
It is something I can do myself and I am pretty capable. I replaced in the last year water pump, power steering pump, ball joints and alternator. So what is not getting..... fuel or spark? The only two things we need for to run ... right ?
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Last night my truck wouldnt start. Drove fine all day, started up bunch of different times. Went to go home at night. No crank, everything else works, hear the fuel pump prime windows radio everything. smacked the starter a few times but no change. Checked the fuses and relays, all appear good. So im guessing the starter or the starter solenoid, but I cant find one on the truck just something that looks like it could be it attached to the starter.
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For the past month or so, probably about a half dozen times now, I will start the truck in the garage but I can't seem to get it into reverse right away. It may very well be a timing thing with me depressing the brake pedal, but I'm not so sure. I've been backing the truck out of the garage for five years and I've never had a timing issue, and I'm definitely noticing it now.
Is/was there an issue with the brake pedal as it related to putting the vehicle in gear? Could it be something going on with the brake pedal for that function? It is very sporadic, maybe once or twice a week it happens (I don't take it out that much). Trying to gather info before hitting up my dealer.
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I have a 6.0L diesel that is not a daily driver so it sits for days and even weeks at a time. When I go to start it the batteries will be run down to the point that sometimes the truck will not start and I will need to charge the batteries. I was thinking about installing a battery tender and leaving it plugged in so the batteries will stay charged. I'm looking at the tender in the link.
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My truck keeps blowing fuse 28 in the inside fuse box. This fuse belongs to the ignition relay, and only blows when I go to start the truck. It is intermittent
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Truck was running fine up until now. After the WTS light goes out, I crank it and.... nothing. It doesn't even try. It's not a battery problem. I have 12.6 V from each battery before and after cranking. The lights are bright, the horn works, the dash lights are strong and bright all both before and after cranking. It just doesn't want to engage the starter. I tried my backup key as well, thinking it might be a problem with the PATS. No dice. Where to start looking?
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I have a 2000 f350 xlt and it has been very good until now. I can be driving normal and stop and park, when I get in and try and start it , it acts like the neutral safety switch is not working. the key turns and all my dash lights work, radio works, everything but the starter. I have to put it into neutral to get it to start. then after I stop again, it works fine. I don't get the problem all the time and I can't find a neutral safety switch.
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I have a 2012 Ford F350 I've been looking to install a compressor on. I've poked a hole in the gasket that runs wires through the firewall and cut the tips off of a couple of the accessory wires. Went to go get some more parts and now the truck won't start! The lights and radio turn on when the car is turned on but the starter doesn't even click when I try to start it. What should I look at?
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i have a 01 Ford F-350 7.3L quite and won't start I have replaced the ipr valve and sensor and the crank sensor and the truck still won't start...
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I have a 2006PSD 6.0. At about 60-70mph my truck will start to buck/jitter if i give about 5-10 percent throttle. It only happens at these speeds and i tried all sorts of fixes so far. Also there are no codes. Truck starts and idles great. At more than 10 percent throttle at 60mph, it acts normal. My current fix is just drive normally at 80mph. I also see talks about the possibility of the Turbo vanes being stuck, but wouldn't that happen at other speeds also?
Oil Change,
Fuel filter change
EOT and ECT within 8 degrees
FICM Change with Atlas 40
EGR Replacement (Unplugging and driving didnt change it.)
Replaced IPR valve
Turbo cleaned at 90k (Currently 140k)
Visual check of exhaust system and up pipes and no leak
Current mods
Fabtech 6" Lift
FICM Repair.com with Atlas 40
Blue Spring
Coolant Filter
Edge CTS
4wd ESOF hose kit
SS Brake Lines
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So I was trying to put led turn signals in my truck then I decided not to because it was getting too dark. Earlier today started without complaints. Then after I was done with the headlights I tried to start my truck, nothing besides rapid clicking. First thought was battery was dead from me leaving the dome light on the entire time while working on it and also having the headlights on a good portion, so I decide I'll jump it. Get it all hooked up and and start the donor truck then wait 2 mins and try to start my truck still nothing but rapid clicks. I got the voltage meter out to check the battery and had 11.97 volts (that's not great but either way it wouldn't start when I tried to jump it). Put it on a charger? Bad starter? Solenoid?
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I just bought a 2000 F250 SD, 4x4, 5.4, Quad Cab. I drove it off the lot, stopped to put air in the tires, jumped back in and it wouldn't crank. All of the dash lights worked fine. Tried jumping at the starter solenoid and got nothing. Got under the truck and jumped it off the starter, vroom, fired right up. Replaced the starter solenoid and had no issues for about 2 hours. Then it did it again. This time it wouldn't start at all. I towed it back to the dealer and they had it for 3 weeks.
Then yesterday I called and they said it was done. Picked it up, drove to the barber shop, got my hair cut, came back out and it did the same thing AGAIN. After jacking around with the shifter and turning the wheel back and forth 100 times it started. The key is kind of hard to turn sometimes in the ignition, so I'm thinking that the ignition cylinder needs to be lubed real good, but that shouldn't stop it from cranking the motor over, right? I was going to swap out the ignition switch, but I don't know if that will do any good either.
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I have a 2008 f250 with 5.4v8. The truck starts intermittently. Put key in turn if no dash lights it doesn't even crank or hear a click. If u put key in and turn and dash lights up to starts and runs. U can watch the different lights (instrument cluster) light up independently like a xmas tree. When truck doesn't start if u disconnect battery when touching power wire to battery. Post truck lights will flick on/off if u tap cables to battery and leave on. Lights flicker on/off and then stay off. (Don't know why shouldn't flicker at all) after disconnecting and reconnecting battery truck will or will not start still depends on if dash lights come on before cranking.i replaced battery, starter, alternator, all the ground cable connections and wire cleaned. I haven't replaced the power side but are clean.
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It seems like recently almost every time I start my truck it beeps 5 beeps 5 times. so it beeps 25 times. what could this be and how do i get rid of it. I wear my seatbelt so it is not that. There has to be a relay or something to stop the dam thing from doing it.
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