Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Vibration At 70 MPH / Heavy Rumbling
Mar 22, 2016
I have an issue with a truck I recently purchased. I have a vibration that starts around 50, feels like a wobbling vibration. Than once I hit 75 it feels like the truck is going to fall apart. Heavy rumbling.
It's a Ford F-350 dually extended cab. With 115,000 miles on it.
I took it to the shop to balance out the wheels and all the wheels needed atleast 2 oz of weighs on each side. Some have as much as 4.75 oz on one side. Is it possible that I need 6 brand new rims?
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Tires just balanced and rotated yesterday (second time just in case done wrong before). New ball joints and bars installed about 50k ago. Left front shock may be bad, but only slightly.
The issue: At about 40-55 mph, there is a rumble in the cab, unknown origination. Everything vibrates, although it "seems" like the left mirror is shaking more. The seat, floor, steering wheel, everything vibrates.
When I let off the pedal, vibration and noise go away, even within the "vibe zone". It only vibes when any throttle is applied, even just a tickle. I brought the engine up to the vibe zone RPM (1500-1800'ish) while in park and neutral, all seems fine.
I checked the U-Joints, they seem tight. I don't have access to a scanner, unless I want to pay the dealer.
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My 2000 f250 4x4 V10 5spd manual with LSD and 63k mi gets an intermittent but very strong vibration like a shuddering, growling, rumbling in 2WD. The 1st time it only lasted about 1 second. It had been making a swooshing noise that sounded like front left wheel bearing for several thousand miles before this, so i replaced bearing assembly even though it turned smoothly.
After that, It still made the exact same swooshing noise and after a couple miles at 45mph, it had the strong vibration/shudder that lasted about 3 seconds. I stopped and locked the hubs manually. The vibration happened again in a couple miles, so seems like it's not the needle bearings in front stub shafts or locking hubs. On that last occurrence, the vibe went on for 5 seconds, felt the same with clutch in, and went away only after truck slowed down to nearly a stop. I've driven it about 6 mi total since the 1st occurrence.
Front right Wheel bearings feel smooth. I unbolted the driveshaft support bearing and it spins smoothly. The front u-joint maybe had a tiny bit of play, all bolts tight. I didn't check the nuts for yokes, but it didn't look like yokes had any play. Drive shaft slip joint moves smoothly. No up-down play at pinion shaft input into rear diff and output from transfer case. Rear diff oil was full with a little bit of silvery sludge on the magnetic filler plug, maybe 1/10 of a cc, no metals slivers or chunks. I raised the rear wheels and ran 5th gear 2WD at idle (~30mph) and touched a 4' listening stick to the drivetrain components.
The only odd sounds were from the rear differential. It sounded like a bad bearing with random crunches and thuds mixed in with the normal whirring. Crunches and thuds were loudest at front of diff housing. I blocked one wheel and repeated in 3rd gear. You could hear noise like gears meshing (noisy spider gears? maybe was LSD clutches?). The differential was warm after 5-10 minutes, with the hottest area being about 3" from the front of diff, just before the housing widens.
So, I'm guessing the pinion bearing is bad and the intermittent shudder is the bearing race spinning in the case when bearing seizes.
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My '05 F350 PSD has developed a pretty bad vibration most noticeable above 40mph but only under acceleration. As soon as i hit speed and let off the gas its gone but if i accelerate again to pick up the speed i lost its back. Haven't looked into it too much yet as i was busy all weekend and drove the Expy but I did get down there and don't have an obviously bad u-joint or carrier bearing. I'm also gonna see if i popped off a driveline weight or something.
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Just last night, out of the blue, I've got an odd rumble at idle. The noise goes away under load and any time the rpm's are up over ~1300. It sounds like metal on metal vibration, but I don't see any loose exhaust parts.
I've looked at threads saying possibly a broken flex plate. Other than the noise, would there be any other symptoms? I don't notice any loss of power. I suppose I could pull the inspection cover and take a look, but I don't have any experience with auto tranny's and don't really know what I'm looking for.
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New floor mats. My truck is going to be 10yr old and has the original King Ranch floor mats. I want some heavy duty rubber ones that will fit around my manual transfer case lever. I ordered the Weathertech digital fit liners and I am not happy with them so they are headed back tomorrow. They have a heavy duty all weather mat but not sure how it will work with my shift lever on the floor. Husky liners/mats look nice and heavy duty but won't accommodate the floor lever.
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Is there a steering stabilizer for a 92 Ford F-250 custom 2wd? and what's the difference between a f250 custom and a f250 heavy duty?
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06 F250 6.0 CCSB 4x4 163K Truck was in a pass side wreck about three weeks ago. Aside from bumper, head light, etc I had to replace the track bar and then I had the alignment done. Mech said the steering was loose and was either the steering box or column.
PROBLEM: Truck drove and parked fine last night, I went to leave the driveway this morning and I had to turn the wheel full right while backing up. The wheel locked up and wouldn't turn back to the left to straighten out. Hood wouldn't pop either to check anything
I crawled under the truck, the belt was in place and I didn't see any power steering fluid leaking. Thinking it was a PS problem and the hood not opening, I basically floored it and yanked on the wheel and it broke loose. Also, for what ever reason the hood opened after that
Now the steering is heavy and the wheel doesn't center on it's own. It will stay turned when I let go of the wheel. Scared that it would happen I didn't try turning it full lock on the way to work. but it happened again exiting the parking lot, again full right lock and the wheel stuck.
I managed to yank the wheel to the left again and I heard a distinct pop from what I'm sure was the pass side wheel area.
The PS fluid is dark and I'll figure out how to change it. I've read issues from the U-joints, ball joints, Steering box, steering stabilizer, and failing PS pump could all lead to this. Being the truck had a pass side fender bender, and I'm pretty sure the pop sound came from the pass side how do I check all of these items.
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I have installed a delete kit and a H&S chip on my 2009 F350 6.4 powerstroke , I installed the mild tune and run in street level. When I accelerate fast from 20 to 70 it puts out a little black smoke but as soon as I let off to maintain speed it starts blue smoke really thick and runs rough , it will eventually stop after 5 or so miles but if I accelerate it will puff blue each time for a bit longer. What could be the issue?
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I did the HID headlight swap about a month and a half ago. Driving tonight about an hour away in heavy constant rain my headlights have gone out... They have flickered. They have gone in and out a couple times but end up off. Any Quick fix????
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2003 F-250 SD 7.3L Supercab
Problem 1: Right rear
Occasional smell of heavy grease, white smoke billowing out from under wheel well (once), black fluid leaking from lower area of caliper. Told it could be axle seal or caliper. I'm leaning toward axle since the caliper is only 1 yr old (NAPA OEM).
Oddly, I also notice a loud, piercing screech when going around traffic circles or exit ramp clovers to the right. I thought this was my trailer until it did the same thing without it.
Axle or Caliper?
Problem 2: Left front
Local mech advised the bleeder valve is broken off in to the unit and cannot be simply replaced. Insists it needs whole caliper. If pedal is all the way up there is a temporary breaking capability then it slowly creeps to the floorboard, hits a brick, and keeps rolling. Replaced master cylinder a few months ago when it same. Drove it for the last 2 weeks and problem is back.
Removing broke-off bleeder valve instead of replacing cals?
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I have a 2000 SD F250, gasser, auto. Last week I pulled a heavy load and developed a tranny fluid leak. The fluid appears to be coming from what looks like a freeze plug on the bottom of the casing forward of the (torque converter?) pan . Is that plug easily replaced by a DYIer. Small leak. 150K on the motor. First time it has leaked. Heaviest load I've pulled.
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Just bought this '08 F250 CCSB 4X4 5.4 Problem is the steering seems heavy, it tends to wander at higher speeds and won't return to center after a turn. I've searched on here and found a few possibilities (axle u joints, ball joints, steering gear, etc). I have an appointment with the dealer on Friday to fix it under warranty but he is convinced it's the u joints in the steering shaft seizing. When my F150 steering shaft began to seize, it would be hard to turn then break free then be hard then break free and this is not what is happening on the SD. I haven't had a chance to check the front end myself but not sure how you would check the axle u joints if there was no play in them. How would you check to see if they were seizing up.
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I only live 6 miles from work and I've been getting a lot of condensation gunk building up inside the filler cap and around the neck. Is there going to be any long term damage from this? Here is a picture of what I'm getting.
I know it's not coolant because I'm not loosing any and the oil on the dipstick is clean.
Since it got cold I've been taking another route to work that gets me up to 9 miles one way. Also, twice a week I take the long way home that has the engine running for a half hour but I'm still getting build up. In the winter I'm on call a lot and rarely go far from home so taking a two hour trip to really heat things up is probably not going to happen.
ETA. I change my oil every 3000 miles if that makes a difference.
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I have a 2008 6.4L F-250 and occasionally when I come to a stop I can see a faint white smoke coming out from under the truck and the hood. The smoke has a heavy diesel exhaust smell. When I step on the pedal nothing comes from the exhaust and it does not happen all the time. What is going on?
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So basically I thought it would be a great idea to degrease my motor from the top down.... After washing I start it up and drive down the road to head abunch of misfiring under heavy load or high rpm's.
My problem is that the misfiring won't throw a code. I then proceeded to buy a new ignition coil (thinking this was the problem) but with no code to go off which cylinder was bad I just switched the good ignition coil into each cylinder and starting it.
Up each time. None of them seemed to make it better. Also the injectors all seemed to be good. So what to do ?
2002 Ford F-250 5.4l
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I have a 99 350 sd 7.3 low power black smoke sets a p1211 under heavy throttle. Check icp on scanner under heavy throttle falls from 1900s to mid 1700s ipr duty cycle runs about 62% wanting to know if I am looking for a hpop problem or injector issue...
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I have a 1991 f250 that used to have a camper on it, I recently got this truck and when I put an older heavy camper on it the back springs flattened out and the front raised about an inch or two.
My question is...I am going to put air bags on this truck to alleviate this problem, should I replace the springs as well or will the air bags be sufficient to handle a camper?
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Best truck I ever had but around 200k would occasionally blow a bunch of smoke when pulling a heavy load.
My 2000 f 350 xlt triton v8 has done the same thing a couple times (about 200k miles).
The (cough) "truck expert" at my local dealer has never seen that before but its happened in 2 different trucks for me. It never caused a problem other than scaring me.
I sold the 02 last year when i got a 2011 f 250--it was 12 years and 300k miles old and never was hospitalized except for a fuel pump due to my negligence of filter.
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I bought this Ex a little over a month ago and finally got around to replacing some stuff.
I have a slight vibration between 50 and 60 MPH. The vibration is the same weather I am accelerating, in Neutral, Coasting down (well, a little bit worse when coasting down), in 2WD, in 4WD, turning, going straight, hot or cold.
I have replaced the following:
Rear Driveshaft U-Joints
Tires and Rims
Upper and Lower Ball Joints
Wheel Bearings
Steering Stabilizer
Cleaned and Greased the Hubs
Greased everything greasable up front
I still have the exact same vibration as when I started. I can feel the vibration in the steering wheel as well as in the body of the vehicle. I am thinking that it may be in the steering linkage. If there is a loose joint then the wheels would be allowed to jiggle a little bit. I am at a loss. What else should I check?
Also, When doing the ball joints, I noticed that the tie rod ends were quite stiff. How stiff should these be? I can't move them by hand, but they will move a little bit when moving the free end of the tie rod.
I am taking it in for an alignment on Friday, and if I can't figure this vibration out, I might have them take a quick look into it. Would a stuck slide pin in the front brakes do this? Both sides on my truck are seized at the current moment.
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I have an 2011 F250 gas. I get what feel like a wheel vibration at 48 to 50 mph. It then go as you go up in speed. Comes back as you go down in speed at about the same range. Had it at the dealer for a month they but new tires and one new wheel on the truck. Same problem. Moved up to Ford. The sent me to another dealer. Ford now tells me that this is a problem that exist in the truck and there is nothing they can do.
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