Ford - Taurus :: 2007 - Sporadically Shuts Off While Driving?
Jun 17, 2011
What is the cause of my 2007 Ford Taurus that sporadically shuts off while driving? This problem started to occur about a year ago when I was stopped at a light. Then it would start to shut off while driving around town. The problem now occurs when traveling 70 mph on a highway which is dangerous. I typically see the theft light, airbag light, etc. come on and the wheel locks up. IF I quickly turn off my radio and air or heat (not set on full blast) then the car typically returns to normal driving.
If I do not turn off these items quickly then the car completely dies and I have to restart the car - so far the car has always restarted. This problem is quite sporadic - can be morning, night, been driving for 10 minutes or 40 minutes. It can happen one time and then not again for many months or it can happen 5 times in one day. I have taken it to 3 auto-mechanics (this last one being the Ford dealer). They have checked the keys, key fobs, alternator, never throwing a computer code, etc. I have driven it to the mechanic as soon after it happens and no computer code thrown. This is getting quite dangerous and about ready to sell the car.
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My mother-in-law is having problems with her Jeep. It will shut itself off while she's driving it. It's intermittent, and of course, the mechanic can't find the problem when it's in the shop. She thinks it's because she might have switched to a poorer-quality gas, but she's had it at 3 repair shops, and no one can find the source of the problem. Only one mechanic has gotten it to malfunction for him, but he still can't figure out what's the problem.
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I just returned after leaving LS 460 in garage for 5 months. Car & a/c start up fine but after 5 minutes of driving the a/c shuts down & can not be re-started until I shut off the engine. I re-start the car and again after about 5 minutes, the a/c shuts down. All a/c panel lights are off except "outside temperature". In the dashboard console where the outside temperature is normally displayed there is an "E" displayed instead. The coolant fluid level is fine.
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My wife and I have a 2004 F-150 5.4 L SCrew 2WD which is stuttering sporadically when we drive it. It will run fine and then suddenly when you increase pressure on the peddle, it will occasionally (one or twice per 30 min or more trip) hesitate. At first I was thinking it was a fuel problem, and now I am inclined to think it is a transmission problem. It causes jerking (feeling of loss of power) and then quickly goes away.
No codes show up in the computer and no lights come on in the dash. Miraculously when service drives it at the local dealer, they state that they don't find anything. We also feel the truck shifts hard since the last PCM update (the dealer states that it has the most recent PCM update). The condition has worsened and we are nearing our original MFW expiration at 36,000. We did purchase the prem extended warranty however. We recently talked the service manager into putting the in-flight computer in it, and I need to take it back today or tomorrow to have it removed.
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My Volvo is having some ac issues and I am trying to figure out what is happening. The compressor works sporadically while driving. When it is on it blows cold, but then all of a sudden it shuts off. I had a friend check the refrigerant levels he said they were fine. He said the high side pressure is at 350, which is high.
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Last winter, my car sporadically stopped while I was driving slowly or while I was standing still. I usually turned the engine off and restarted it right away without a problem. It happened a few times and then it stopped. This winter, it began again - frequently. I realize now that it only happens during the cold months.
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I have a 2000 Lexus RX300 with 210,000 miles on it. We recently started to have some transmission issues. It sporadically drops into 1st gear while driving. We had the transmission fluid changed, and it did work for a short time, but it has recently started again. Is my transmission going to completely fail or is this something that is serviceable? We are trying to decide whether it's worth it to keep the car and fix it and drive it for another 100,000 miles or sell it. It looks great and drives great, otherwise.
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My oil pressure light came on about a week ago (while I was out of town), so I took it to the dealer who replaced the oil pressure sensor. I got home and noticed oil was leaking. Brought it to my mechanic who said it was probably just residual oil (same thing I found on this forum), but he put dye in the oil just to be sure. I brought the car back today and it is definitely leaking oil from the engine. He said it was probably the main seal at the back. It is now at the local dealer who has said that the seal is covered by warranty.
Could the original problem have been caused by the leaking seal? The car was originally leaking oil and the oil pressure light would come on sporadically. Generally the light would go off when I accelerated. I realize that these sensors tend to break pretty regularly, but it was not a warranty item and this seems like a pretty big coincidence to me. Maybe it is just a coincidence ?
2011 Santa Fe ltd, awd, 69000 miles, 3.5 L.
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At first we would use the remote and sometimes the lock would not lock the drivers side door but the rest of the car would. Normally if I tried a second time it would catch and lock.
Now I need to flip the lock switch myself when getting out of the car. I can unlock the car with the remote but there has been the odd time that it will not unlock via the remote and I've had to go around to the passenger side and reach over to unlock the drivers side door.
If I hold the lock and try to unlock or lock the car it is very weak compared to doing the same with all the others doors.
From looking around if sounds like it could be the actuator?
If this is the case how easy is this to replace on my own? I've been trying to see if there's a video anywhere but no luck finding one.
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A little background information: 2007 Honda Civic EX, 62000 miles, never been in an accident other than a couple bumper breakers, I'm the second owner and bought the car Certified Pre-Owned in 2008. I take pretty decent care of the car -- regular tune ups and oil changes. The check engine light comes on sporadically. It'll be on for a full day, and then it'll disappear, and won't reappear for a week, sometimes more.
Last summer, I got into one of those bumper breakers I mentioned before. I rolled into a car in front of me at about 7 mph when I took my eyes off the road for a moment because a woman swung open her car door next to me as I passed, and it grabbed my attention. Cracked my bumper, knocked off the Honda "H" logo, and otherwise caused cosmetic damage, but no mechanical damage from what I could tell. I didn't have anybody look at it, but since then I have had 2 oil changes, 2 tune ups and an inspection, and nobody noticed any problems. It turns out that my radiator had the slightest ding in it and was causing me to very slowly leak coolant. There were never any signs -- no corrosion, no pools under the car, nothing like that. It wasn't until this week when my car began overheating and my check engine light came on that I realized there was a problem. I had the radiator replaced and the transmission fluid changed because it was pretty well burnt up.
At the mechanic, they hooked up my car to their computer and the on-board computer gave them this error message: "P0848 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure SW (Open or Stuck)". The mechanic tells me that I need a whole new transmission. I am completely in disbelief. At only 62000 miles? Only a year or so removed from when my CPO Powertrain Warranty expired? It's a big pill to swallow. Especially since I'm a relatively poor 30 year old who is getting married in November and don't have a penny to spare.
So, here are my questions for you:
(1) What does this error message mean?
(2) Does it really mean that I need a whole new transmission? If not, what is the recommended procedure to fix the problem...
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My high mount break light works sporadically. When I break, sometimes you can see it as bright as it can be, other times it is dim, and then sometimes no light comes on. The dealership could not even figure out how to get to the led unit.
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My 1999 ford taurus station wagon has recently been stalling out while I'm driving. It happens usually after a 30-40 minute drive on my way home from school. There is no warning the car sounds great, and none of the lights come on. The car tends to stall either when I've braked to slow down for a light or I've stopped in general. Also it takes anywhere from 30 minutes to and hour before I can restart the car, after the stall if I try to start it, it sounds like its trying to catch but it cant. My mechanic is unable to figure it out and we both don't want to just start swapping out parts needlessly. My car has a V6 is a front wheel drive and has 93529 miles on it.
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My 1999 Ford Taurus has been dying randomly at any given time. I have changed the fuel filter, top grade fuel, fuel cleaner, and it has thrown no codes. It will start and run, and I will drive down the road just a mile and the first thing that happens is the wheel locks up, the battery light comes on, then all others. It turns over and over and will not start, let it rest for a few hours and it will start again and do the same thing. some times it will go a few days with no problems, then it will go only a few minutes. Next thing on my list is change plugs and wires because I do not have much money so am just guessing at cheap things and hoping for the best. What this could be to make it stall at random times, not throw the engine light off?
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I just bought this car from a estate has a hundred and ten thousand miles. I'm a postal the mechanic that works mail trucks and have not worked on any issues like this before.
After driving when I park it in the garage. it sounds like it's hot but there is no smell there is a sound every few seconds until something cools down. at least I think this is what the noise is. dual overhead cam engine.
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My '02 F250 Diesel shut down and would not start while I was pulling a 20' gooseneck trailer in August of 2012. After approximately an hour it started and I drove it home. Took it to repair shop and I had them change the fuel filter (although no lights came on in truck) and they told me they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Then for a couple of months while driving it would shut down while driving and as soon as I released the pedal it would run again. In November 2012 it again shut down while I was driving and would not start. The next day it started and I took it to another repair shop. They checked it and said they couldn't find anything wrong. I drove it home (30 miles) and it shut off briefly a couple of times, but we made it. I've driven it a few times over the winter and it had no problems. Then yesterday, the first day over 50 degrees since last fall, I drove it and it shut off, would not start, and I had it towed back home. It appears there are multiple posts about this issue (on the internet) with these trucks and their stories are very much the same. I'm about to give up on this truck.
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Hesitation while driving mostly in city traffic.....
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I have a '99 Ford Taurus that was hesitating and sputtering while driving. I had the fuel pump replaced about a week ago thinking my problem was solved. Lo and behold, while driving about 50mph and trying to pass vehicles, my car started doing the same thing. It acts as though I have bad fuel or there is dirt somewhere that is entering my gas line.
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I'm having a problem with my 92 crown vic overheating the radiator and thermostat have been replaced, the temp gauge never goes near the hot range but the engine gets so hot it shuts down while I'm driving. I am a rural mail carrier so I use the car for about 5 hours a day, I have to stop and let the engine cool by opening the hood for about a half hour after driving for 1 1/2 hours. I am not losing any coolant and the fan appears to be working.
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This happened a year ago. We got it running after a few minutes, and had the fuel filter changed before continuing on the highway again. It ran fine for the remaining 2 hours of the trip. I looked online and saw this as an issue, but no one knows why. It was suggested to take a break after 2 hours, and that has worked until 2 days ago, when it stalled an hour after the break, then restarted after some time and made it the next 1 1/2 hours home no problem. Each time it stalled, the air temp had been in the high 90's.
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I recently bought a 1997 Ford Taurus. It ran fine when I got it but the third time I drove it, it started acting up. I was driving down the highway and I noticed it was missing a little bit. Then about 10 minutes later it started not being able to keep up speed. It just seemed to kinda bog down or something when I gave it more gas. The longer I drove the slower it would go until it eventually stopped. I took it to a mechanic and he said it was a cam sensor and cam synchronizer or something like that. When that didn't fix it he said it was the fuel pump and filter, which didn't work either. Took it to another and he said to try changing spark plugs and then coil pack after that didn't work. It runs fine when I first start the car but the more I push the accelerator the faster it starts bogging down.
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Having problems with the truck - either a no crank situation and now a complete shut down while driving at any speed.
Dash is blank with no power when truck shuts down, here is the hitch with the no crank, I pulled and replaced the PCM module and the truck fired up without hesitation. I had to do this a few times over the course of today to get home. I can live with having to do that for a while but it is unnerving to have the truck shut down with 0 notice.
Throttle body was just cleaned, and all starter/battery connections cleaned and protected. Brand new PCM relay. What does this relay have to do with reset, for clean start up after removing it and then just putting it back in it's place? Would there be any solutions for the dies completely while driving, or fails to crank?
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