I've been running type F since I bought the truck about 30k miles ago. The dipstick says to run M2C138cj which I recently found out is NOT type F! I hope I haven't destroyed the clutches. How I can get all of the old fluid out. Also I can't find any transmission fluid with the ford M2c138cj spec is Dex-Merc III backwards compatible?
View 2 RepliesI am looking to change out my manual transmission in my 79 f150. I want to put a 5 speed in it but still keep my manual clutch. I have a 300 engine that I also want to keep, can I just put a late 80's early 90's 5 speed transmission in it and keep my original bell housing?
View 5 RepliesI swapped in a manual trans in my 79 f250 4x4 about a year ago. i had the trans gone through before i put it in. I installed a new luk clutch, resurfaced the flywheel, new throw out bearing, etc.
Ever since i installed it there was always a clunking noise in the trans. I drove it and didn't think much about it until recently where im just fed up with it. the trans always shifted nice and tight with no grinding.
In the past few weeks i picked up a parts truck for the trans thinking that's what my problem was. I drove the truck before i pulled it and it mad no noises whatsoever. I had it gone through and reasealed it before i installed it. I pulled my old trans and it still looked good with no slop on the input shaft(which i thought that was the problem). I installed the new one and once again same noise.
I decided to pull the trans again this time pulling the bellhousing and checking the clutch. It looked like new to me still and i saw nothing abnormal. Put it back together and still the same. I swapped the transfer case too, checked both driveshafts all is good. I am thinking its coming from the bellhousing(maybe the clutch is bad)
So here is a video and you can hear what I am talking about it happens mostly when I engage the clutch and i am coasting. it is much louder now with no carpet and the trans hump cover off.
Np 435 transmission clunk - YouTube
I am adding an auxiliary trans fluid cooler to my C-6 in my F-250. Should the fluid route thru the aux cooler first then the stock rad cooler, or thru radiator cooler to aux cooler? Which stock hard line is fluid FROM the C-6 (HOT), and which is the return line (cold)?
Vehicle is 78 F-250 4x4 crewcab, 400/C-6
I am going over this new truck I brought home not long ago. and I haven't picked a service manual up yet but I figure since I've owned manual tranny's before it's pretty obvious on the basics.
The fill and drain plugs are on the same side correct? I found them on the passenger side, figured the top one was the fill plug.. So I remove the plug and I get bathed in gear oil to the armpit and topcoated the driveway; Geesh the smell hasn't changed one bit.. I'm guessing the PO topped the fluid to the top of this transmission. Because I expected to stick my finger in the hole and either feel fluid or not. Not get a bath Unless I removed the wrong square plug.. I don't think I did.
What seals can I expect to be blown because of this if any? I haven't put many miles on it since I bought; it maybe a 100 total. I have no idea though how long it was driven though before I picked it up.
I have a '99 E350 that sat for a winter. When I started it up, it appeared to be overheating and boiling over. I didn't have time to mess with it, and it sat for another year. Today I tried to figure out the issue and determined that I have trains fluid in the coolant. Pulling the trans dipstick revealed a white milkiness on the dipstick, so I'm guessing the trans cooler/radiator failed and the two fluids have mixed.
My question is, is the transmission salvageable? The van has not been driven in this condition, so I'm hoping there is hope. Obviously, flushing both systems (multiple times) is in order, along with a new radiator. But is there any hope for the transmission? I'd hate to spend the money flushing it all multiple times if it is a lost cause.
2000 Excursion 7.3 unk transmission
Quick run down on the situation. It has been terribly hot here bumping 105 degrees. I was told by a man he could see fluid leaking and it was trans fluid. I checked it and filled it up and got it to the shop.
Next day they said it was not leaking and that it probably overheated. They recommended an after market trans cooler. They put it in and off I went. 60 miles later I got fluid all over the rear of the truck. I filled it up again and got it home. Shop says I need a new trans.
My 1999 7.3l Disel 4x4 transmission quit on me the other day. No forward or reverse. Got towed to my regular repair shop, and they are treating the transmission as a black box and recommending total replacement. The diagnostics they performed were to make sure it was shifting, and that indeed it wasn't going forward or reverse. They drained the fluid and said "it's pitch black" and said it had to be completely replaced.
Fluid level was OK, and it wasn't hot. I was driving along, and merging onto the highway. It downshifted, shuddred, and nadda. Free rev. I coasted to the next exit and into a parking lot. Verified that it was shifting, checked Rev and all forwards. It wouldn't shift into 4W, and 1-2 also wouldn't move.
I'm trying to figure out what might have happened... and if it's worth trying to have the truck towed to a transmission shop and have them diagnose and rebuild, vs just getting a remanufactured transmission. None of the local wreckers have any used transmissions, and the cost between a reman and a used is pretty negligible...
Not sure what the symptoms points to for exact failure mode, be it the torque converter, pump, input shaft, etc... I've never had an automatic transmission apart before, but built plenty of motors and am a machinist by trade. My preference is to try and root cause the failure...
I pull a 23 ft travel trailer with my 99 f150 4.6l and so I decided I needed a trans cooler just to be safe towing in the dead of summer. I got a few quotes for right under 300. I couldn't justify the labor cost considering the cooler was under 100. So I made up my mind and decided to do it myself. I watched a bunch of videos for other makes and models but couldn't find nothing on my particular model year truck. I finished it today and I realized that my transmission fluid fluid is very dark. I have never serviced the transmission ever not even a drain and refill. I am going on my trip in about 7 days, and was wondering if I should even mess with anything to do with the transmission fluid. I put about a half quart of new fluid to top it off after the install of the transcooler but now I am worried that my transmission may not be in the best shape. Truck shifts fine as far as I concerned and acceleration is ok, so I am hesitant to do anything to it.
View 3 RepliesTranny fluid spews out pretty good underneath. Is it likely a broken hose? Where do I start?
View 3 RepliesI cannot find the transmission dipstick to check the trans fluid? I looked in the owners manual also and I can't find it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 98 Mazda Protege-Automatic, it has the following problem:
- When i press the gas it takes about 2-3 seconds to feel it and start moving.
- at the beginning of a drive, it is very heavy to go and some time i have to reach 4000 rpm to get it move. after running for some time it is better.
- some time it sticks to a specific gear (usually 1st or 2nd) and does not shift forward??
Is it the clutch or the transmission or something else? how much it may cost to fix?
I have a 1997 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 with the 4.6W and a 4R70W trans. For the past year is has been leaking trans fluid and has slowly got worse and worse. At first the truck would only leak at high speeds (when driving on the interstate for extended periods of time) and now It has gotten to the point where I am adding close to a quart of fluid a week. ( roughly about a quart every 300 miles!). I thought that it was the pan gasket leaking at first, so I flushed the trans fluid (dropped the pan and drained the TC and put on a new filter) put a new gasket on and torqued it all down and added some new Valvoline max life fluid. The first trip in the truck I noticed a puddle of fluid under the truck again.
The pan looked like it could have been a little warped, so I ordered a new pan and a new FoMoCo gasket (the one the came with the new filter was the cheap felt type). I thought I for sure had fixed the truck this time, but I drove it and once again it was still leaking. I checked all that I could before replacing the pan and gasket. I checked the trans cooler lines and fittings (no leaks) I pulled the inspection plug and it was dry (so I ruled out the front pump or TC leaking). The whole underside of the truck is covered with fluid so it is hard to pin point the leak, but most of the fluid drips down on the transmission cross member.
Just installed new clutch and everything good except pedal doesnt comecall way up now have pull up with foot, ans grabs rt off the floor, i assume just need to adjust? Make adjust rod longer?
View 10 RepliesSo against my better judgement I rebuilt my C6 myself. It's all back together and in my 79 F150 2wd 400cu. It seems to not want to shift into 2nd on it's own. I can manually shift it into all the gears but 2nd feels like it slips. So here is a list of parts with questions:
I used Mercon V instead of Type F. The transmission is a 1987 and the bottle says it covers vehicles requiring Dextron/Mercon.
I installed a FF servo lever with a P servo. My kit didn't come with a new spring. What effect would a worn spring have?
When adjusting the band, I set it to 120in/lbs and backed it off 1.5 turns. This seemed very loose to me. It leaves the set screw finger tight/loose, so I tried turning it in 1/2 turn but that made no difference and I won't drive it until I readjust it. Also it's a RedEagle wide band, but that shouldn't make a difference.
One place I think I could have a problem is with the modulator. I didn't have a scale to do the 12.5 lbs method, but I had a big syringe, vacuum guage, tubing and t fitting. I could hold the -15" of mercury but the rod didn't go in to the notch like it said it should. I was going to stick the old one in but it's bent and the rod is missing. Will a bad or misadjusted modulator cause the tranny to slip in 2nd? I don't think it's inbetween gears because it does accelerate in 2nd.
I used the BadShoeProductions video along with a Ford Shop manual to assist me.
Complete list of replaced items:
New Modulator
F servo lever with P piston
All Friction and steels
Pressure plates for additional friction plates per video.
All Seals and gaskets
New wide band
New pump
Hughes torque converter
TransGo shift kit
New Sun Shell (Took my end play from .070 to .012)
Everything was cleaned and tested ok per video.
Then only problem with the video is it doesn't tell you what to do when you have a problem, only shows you how to tear down and reassemble.
I used a torque wrench for everything, but if it turns out it's a valve body problem then I will go back through it but only using a nut driver.
The kick down rod is working properly.
My gear selector is set properly.
This is a photo of my '79 F250 4x4 rear axle (Dana 60 full floater) this seal will leak in a few miles ..what I need is the part number of a replacement seal made like the one in the lower photo ..it seems that Ford no longer has this seal.
Notice the increased distance from the bearing to the sealing lip in this photo ..the sealing lip on the new seal in the upper photo lies almost on the bearing, this one just barely engages the seal surface on the axle stub. I can machine the bearing pocket deeper to cause the seal to move farther onto the sealing surface, but that would also cause the bearings to be closer together, and may cause problems there.
I used my truck in 4x to pull a couple of little stumps. Nothing major, just put it in 4l more or less to keep from tearing up the yard. Noticed a couple of weird things today. For a minute had a good pull to the right. Just felt "weIrd" in front end. For lack of a better explanation. Jacked up and checked for play, nothing unusual. Took off the tire and checked other stuff and couldn't find anything. Lubed up joints etc and drove later. I'm hearing a slight " clanking" noise in front. I know it's got something to do with the 4wd but I don't know where to start.
View 3 Replies79 F150 400/C6 2wd. Loss of reverse and it doesn't want to stay in high.
Strange thing happened today. I took my truck on it's longest test drive since rebuilding the transmission. It was about 25 miles. I got to the junk yard just fine and it was running just fine when I left. I went through a drive through to grab a burger and headed home. That's when it started acting funny. It shifted fine 1st to 2nd, then 2nd to 3rd, but it wouldn't stay in 3rd. It would shift into high, but the slightest bit of throttle and it would shift back into 2nd and eventually got so bad that it just stayed in 2nd, so I had to return to the town I was leaving.
I drove to an autoparts store nearby. I decided to move where I was parked and when I put it into reverse, nothing was there. It rolled back. I drove it to the new spot and called for a tow truck. Weird thing is that reverse worked just 10 minutes earlier when I left the junk yard. When I got it home 2 hours later, it backed up under it's own power. I let it cool down completely and took it for a test drive and it drove perfectly. I have a few theories or questions:
Kickdown rod: Can it be in such a position that it could take away reverse? I would assume that if the spring wasn't returning it all the way forward that it wouldn't have shifted from 1st to 2nd properly. I ask this because I am not using the Holley spring mount and I'm wondering if the wrong spring set up allows the kickdown to be partially activated.
Fluid: What fluid are you suppose to use after a rebuild and what fluid can't you use. Mercon V says it supercedes earlier fluids, but is that wrong?
Am I wrong to assume that if fluid was the problem that I would have had problems with 1st and 2nd?
Cooling: What are signs of hot fluid other than smelling it. Once again, assuming I would have problems with all gears if fluid was too hot.
My guess is that something is sticking in the valve body, but before I drop the pan and pull out the valve body, I want to make sure all other avenues are exhausted.
I've got a 1996 BMW 328i manual. It has 175k miles. I purchased the car about a year ago. Several weeks ago, I began hearing a screeching noise when shifting when the car is cold. The screeching happens when you let the clutch out when going into gear. It happens much more frequently when very little throttle is used. If you shift it harder, it is less likely to make the noise. If it starts making the noise, you have to shift several times for it to go away. It'll still make the noise while in gear at that point. When the car is driven for about 10 minutes, it never makes the noise afterward, until the car cools down completely overnight. The clutch does not appear to be slipping at all, and once a gear is engaged, it does not have any issues staying in gear. What is my car's issue?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 VW beetle with a fairly new clutch (2 yrs old). My boyfriend is new to a manual transmission and I can't say I know much about how it works either. A few times when he was driving he will reverse out of a parking spot and then shift to first and the car will make a deep rumbling noise. We turn off the car and turn it back on and its fine. Is the car stuck between gears? Why does it make this noise?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1994 lincoln towncar, 55,000 original miles. I accidently put 3 gallons of E 85 in it. Then added 20 gallons of mid grade unleaded. Will my engine be damaged?
View 19 Replies