Its a 2004 f 150 5.4 2 wd auto, I think is a 4r70w, when I first start out in the morning I get a trans malfunction on the dash and the od light flashes, if I shut the truck off and restart it goes away for the rest of the day, when it does this the speedometer doesn't work right, vss?
View 2 RepliesYesterday I had a flashing O/D light come on for about a minute, a quick scan shows a P1747 code indicating a short in the EPC solenoid circuit. Poked around the harness this morning and found this:
I'm guessing transmission fluid shouldn't be there. Do I have to replace the whole internal transmission harness to solve this? How much of a job is that?
One day I was driving my truck 96 f150 4x4 Eddie Bauer edition and the over drive light started flashing and the truck got jerky going up hills. I got home and hooked my code reader up and (p0708) it said transmission range sensor. I replaced that the next day and drove it around town for about 30 minutes and parked it all seemed to good. But the very next day I started down the road and the transmission was slipping very bad after I turned around after a few hundred feet I barley made it back to my house. I checked my transmission fluid it's full and doesn't smell burnt or anything, I double checked the alignment on the neutral safety switch I just installed and it still in line. So I'm thinking my transmission is going out...
View 4 RepliesI have been to the dealer 3 times so far because of something to do with the lighting system. The MFD says "AFS Inoperative" and the indicator light flashes for bulb failure or malfunction in the adaptive front lights system.
The dealer has replaced a bulb and power module thus far, but it hasn't fixed the malfunction. The indicator light and warning comes on 4 out of 5 times I drive the car and usually within the first few minutes of driving. It occurs with our without the lights on.
The lights do work at all times, but I don't think the adaptive steering/lighting is working when the error occurs.
I have an oddball electrical problem its a 95 explorer 2 door with a 4.0 v6 auto 4x4 and the windows and sun roof sometimes dont work and at the same time the 4x4 lite on the dash flashes at odd times?
View 6 RepliesOk, I have a strange no start issue right now. My excursion won't start. I have power to everything and both batteries are at 12 volts or a bit more but the starter won't engage. If you turn the key to start all that happens is relays click under the dash and the airbag light flashes. It almost seems like the transmission is in gear. It did this twice about a month ago and has been fine ever since until today.
View 8 RepliesI was plowing and when I put it in reverse it felt like it slipped, but then the dash message trans malfunction came up. I checked the codes and I got P0722 output shaft speed sensor.
Code P0720 (oss) sensor circuit fault
Then the truck went into safe mods. Is it just the sensor or is my reverse going out...
My tranny started acting up so I took it to a reputable transmission shop for repair.
Symptoms : Shifts very hard 1st to 2nd. Light flashes on overdrive button.
The following is what has been done at the transmission shop.
Computer failed to read codes. Sent out to rebuild. After rebuild, codes read FIPL needs replace. Done and gives good readout. Trans control replaced, speed sensor replaced, checked all associated wiring and plugs as well as ground. Dropped pan, changed fluid and filter. No parts in pan. Tech says pan and fluid looked good. Replaced coil pack.
After all that, this is what is happening..Clear all codes. FIPL reading good. No flashing light on shifter. It feels like it is shifting from 1st to 3rd, then back to 2nd. Still shifting hard and indicator light starts blinking again. He is going to read computer again. At this point, he suspects a mechanical problem in transmission but is reluctant to remove and tear down.
I've had my Avalon at the Toyota shop more than 12 times with the same problem...a/c light on dash flashes off and on. The A/C system shuts down. Sometimes the command center says check A/C.
We have gone through the replace game, compressor twice, relay four times, too much refrigerant-to little refrigerant multiple times and loose wire multiple times.
This is supposed to be a Toyota Certified car if that means anything. The car has 86,000 miles.
About 2 months ago ('06 Prius - 386K) 12v battery was replaced - red triangle disappeared and everything has been fine. ( I have driven the car about 7K since replacement).
Now on my 2800 mile trip, the following is happening. With Cruise Control on and functioning - freeway traffic comes to an almost halt (5-8 mph) after traffic picks up Cruise Control light on dash is flashing and will not function. (Pull over and re-boot the Win95 machine - and everything is back to working until next slow down).
I am now driving on a service road to my hotel at approx. 25mph and as I go over every patch in the asphalt my Traction Control light comes on and then off and it makes the car act like it is on ice ( and yes the Cruise Control light is back to flashing).
On my journey on this 5 miles of access road then my stereo volume starts going up and down all on its own. If I try turning the volume knob nothing happens. I push the knob in and then push on the knob to come back out and then the volume knob works and then the volume control on the steering wheel starts to work as well.
Working on a 2004 E-250 van. [URL] ....
I went through this transmission completely, its back in the van and I get no 1-2 shift.
when I first put it together, I missed the hole in the flex plate for the torque converter stud and started tightening the bell housing bolts down, I heard loud "POP" and realized what I had done. maybe I damaged the pump?
forward and reverse engagement is firm, both give a nice bump when it goes in gear. This tells me the forward clutch is working, but the intermediate clutch is not applying to make second gear happen.
I have done all the easy stuff I can think of, replaced the shift solenoid and put in a new 1-2 accumulator piston. I guess i need to air check the intermediate clutch piston again and make sure its applying. this a 2004 model trans, so it has the new style pump and intermediate piston.
98 ford expedition 4.6 2wd, 4r70w only reverse works. Here's the low down on what happen.
First off the truck overheated a little then was cooled off and coolant added. about a week later it wouldn't go forward so i told my wife to check the tranny fluid it was low barely on the dipstick, fluid was added and she was on her way. this past weekend the truck sherd all 5 lugnuts on the driver rear wheel. fixed that but went to drive it away and the tranny was slipping a little. added 2 quarts to fill and on the way again. 3 days later went to drive it to my dads shop to find out where the fluid is going, its slips again, added 2 quarts to fill just to drive 6 miles.
It drives fine until i get to my destination we have to stop to open a gate, i put in neutral to roll back to open the gate and no forward gears, only revers. i drive backwards to the shop about 300' and the tranny is empty again. looks like the fluid is going into the radiator which i'm sure caused the overheating a couple weeks back. no water is getting into the tranny. I've changed the filter and fluid and radiator, but still no forward gears only reverse. could there be an easy fix, electrical part maybe or mechanical or do you think its trashed and need replacing.
I have a 2005 ford expedition with 91000 miles, it has the 5.4 w/ the 4r70w transmission.
For some reason when my truck tries to shift into 4th gear, the RPM's climb to approx. 3000 rpms (meanwhile the truck is not gaining speed) and slowly drops down to about 1000-1500. once the rpms drop down fourth gear eventually engages and I can go about my business as normal as long as I do not let my mph drop too low.
If I turn O/D off, the truck drives perfect, minus not having overdrive.
If I come to a dead stop and put the truck in 2nd gear, with O/D on the truck drives great and it has good engine braking so I am assuming that the band is holding.
I took it to a transmission shop to have some diagnostic checks done, they told me that fourth gear was barely engaging and that they would have to tear apart the transmission to diagnose it further, I told them not to disassemble the transmission.
So I changed out the torque converter (which I assumed was "fourth gear") and changed out all the fluid, the fluid looked a little burnt but there was no debris in the pan but there was some silver material on the tranny pan magnet, and installed a new filter. and the problem still exists.
I've been making steady progress tearing down the transmission from my 2002 E-150 but have reached a point that I can't continue. The ATSG AODE manual says to "Rotate the shell assembly to align indent with overdrive anchor pin and then Remove forward sun gear." This is the step right after removing the intermediate stub shaft.
Well, the stub shaft came right out but the shell will not rotate, move, or do anything. It certainly cannot be removed. How to get this out?
Background: The trans is being worked on due to a failure that prevented it from being driven and it actually stalled the engine when shifted into any forward gear. It would idle in park or neutral. It would also still allow the engine to run in reverse but the van would still not move. I was able to push it into the garage in neutral.
I have a 98 expedition with a 4.2 liter 4x4 and what I believe to be a 4r70w transmission (u code on the door sticker)
The original transmission went at 105k miles and was replaced with a new factory ford transmission by a ford dealer 3.5 years ago. The new transmission only has 10k miles on it.
Now the new transmission only has reverse. reverse works like normal but no forward gears. the idle will change when i put if in gear, but will not move, acts like it is in N . There is no strange noises.
It's hard to believe a new trany is shot already, no towing, or off road use.
My question is : is there ANYTHING that can go bad that would cause this? The trany fluid is clean and clear bright red, and no burnt smell.
I want to check everything I can before calling a tow truck to have it looked at. I will have it repaired if needed, but I don't think I want to replace another tranny.
I just put a rebuilt 4r70w in my '97 expedition and it shifts good but in 4th gear when I let off of the accelerator it starts to shudder until it shifts to 3rd. It acts like it is freewheeling then catches on and off. My thoughts so far is that I don't have the digital transmission range sensor positioned right or the overdrive servo isn't working properly.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 Mercury Mountaineer with a 4R70W trans behind a 5.0 liter. Vehicle sat for about 5 months. Went out to put it back on the road, and now the trans seems to be stuck in a forward gear no matter what the selector is in, park, reverse, neutral. Dropped the pan and replaced the filter and replaced what fluid was drained. no difference,.
View 3 RepliesSituation is I have a 92 F150 2WD donor truck. 5.8l will be going into my 80 F150 4X4. E4OD transmission is long gone, but I do have a 4R70W from a 96 Explorer. Bolting it together is no problem, but there are differences in the transmission controls. E4OD uses a coast clutch, 4R70W does not. EPC, shift solenoids and TCC are compatible. I do not want to use a 5.0l PCM or add external controllers like the Baumannator.
Question is, can I control the 4R70W with the PCM that comes with the 5.8l?
I'm thinking I can ignore the coast clutch output, maybe tie it to +12 through a resistor if that makes the PCM happy. Baumann's controller appears to work with E4OD's as well as 4R70w's doing exactly this. Baumannator TCS Electronic Transmission Wiring Details....
I have a 2007 e-150 ford van with only 38,000 miles on it, with i believe a 4r70w transmission. The problem started yesterday. Going in reverse, it would go, but as soon as you take the foot of the gas, it would stop immediately, plus very difficult until it would start rolling, I think this is called engine breaking. Also, in Park, revving the engine, the trans makes a very strange noise, and wants to creep up (move forward) with more gas you give it. neutral does the same thing. When i drive the van, it seems like it switches gears fine, and does not make any noise, but the OD light does not show when you press the button. I did check the fluid, nice and red/pink color no smell at all. No leaks under the car, and the trans is totally dry all around. I do not show a check engine light on. This morning my friend came over with his scanner and hooked it up to my van's plug. It showed no codes of anything wrong. What might be wrong with the trans? My friend seems to think it might be a solenoid problem, I sort of think it might be a shifting problem, but i am no mechanic.
View 14 RepliesTwo days ago my '03 Silverado stopped recognizing when I pop the parking brake loose and now dings incessantly while I drive and the parking brake light on the dash flashes on and off.
I tried...
1.) Engaging and releasing the parking brake multiple times.
2.) Checked the brake fluid level (perfect level)
3.) Checked my owner's manual (not enough info in the manual)
The problem started with a front seal leak a few months ago which I had no choice but to continue driving with because of low funds. I don't drive much so a couple of quarts of ATF was usually enough to get me out and about for what little driving I had to do. I know.. a front seal is cheap, but I'm partially disabled and unable to work on anything that is not under the hood.
I finally scraped up enough money to hire a friend to replace the seal, but he had a life crisis before completing the work, so I had to get another friend to reinstall the trany... still had the leak, but I could get around by adding ATF as before.
So we tried again... dropped everything and put another new seal on. This stopped the leak, but we got some grinding/squealing noises and could not get the trany to engage any gear.
From reading forum posts and other sources, we decided to replace the TC which we just completed this evening. We got some more of the grinding / squealing noise like before, except that it only occurred the first time we tried cranking the engine, the 2nd time we got no noises, but again no gears engaging.
What to check/replace next assuming there is something we can look at other than a total trany rebuild or replacement. I personally find it hard to believe we could have gone from a tolerably functional trany to scrap metal just replacing a seal and the TC. Its gotta be something simple we overlooked !!