Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1996 - Got Code P1351 - ICM For EEC-V 460?
Mar 28, 2014
I have been trying to resolve the last of my codes on my MAF conversion on a 460. I am using an EEC-V box and had two codes I couldn't get rid of. I solved one yesterday, P0443 a evap purge code, by running the circuit directly from the EEC to the VMV.
The current issue is a code P1351, which is the IDM circuit. When I put everything together originally, I assumed that all the later systems used the black CCD module, Motorcraft DY-533. Adam Maurer asked that I check this to be sure. When I went to the Motorcraft website, I found that all 460 remote modules are listed as a DY-1075, gray push start.
The wiring diagram (from the 1995 and 1996 EVTMs) shows a yellow with black stripe wire (circuit 382) from pin 3 of the ICM to either pin #4 (EEC-IV) or pin #48 (EEC-V). Older systems show to start (circuit 32, red with light blue) to pin #3 of the ICM and a suppression resistor from circuit 11 (coil -) to pin #4 of the EEC-IV. which ICM a 1996 EEC-V 460 should have?
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i have a 96 ranger and want to put cruise control in it. is the wiring there and what other parts do i need to get without going aftermarket.
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Have and intermittent condition with my 1996 F-150 4.9. AC runs and then cuts out (compressor not turning). I lose 12v to both side of high side switch. I tried to troubleshoot using a schematic in Haynes Foprd Pickups and Bronco for 92 and later F-Series/Bronco, but the color code for the wiring doesn't match up.
On my truck, there is 2 wires from the low side pressure switch which mates to a socket with only 1 wire. I have 12 volts at switch terminal on dash control, and it seems that I have an broken wire behind the dash, as I can get it to operate again when I move the harness around. Where can I get a schematic of this part of the circuit?
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I'm planning the install of a 1996 351w into my '77 F-100. I'm using the '96 accessory serpentine drive (FS-10 A/C compressor, '96 alternator, etc.). It needs to mate up to the '77 wiring. I'm going to use stock '96 underhood A/C components (accumulator, hoses, condenser).
As best as I can tell, the '96 system uses the ECU to manage the A/C system, but I've converted the '96 motor to a carb.
Looking at both the '77 and '96 systems I think the easiest underhood wiring solution would be to use the '77 compressor ON wire as a relay trigger, and use the '96 High Pressure Cut Off (HCPO) on the compressor manifold, and compressor cycling switch attached to the accumulator to interrupt the relay output to the compressor.
I can get the switches and pigtails, and I can look up their pressure trigger points, but I don't know the voltage the '96 switches operate at (12v or some reduced voltage?) or how to simulate their trigger conditions to see how they work. I guess that at ambient pressure the HPCO should be normally on and the cycling switch should be normally off. So I could just wire them into the relay ground or trigger connection. But of course they aren't simple two wire switches. (Edit: Looking at it online, the cycling switch appears to be two wire, the HCPO is 4 wire).
How to wire them, should I use them to interrupt the relay ground or trigger connection?
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I have a trans temp gauge on my 1996 F350, I have it all hooked up and functioning except for the light. I have searched without success looking for where to splice in to get the light on and have it dimmable. I have a wire routed from the gauge to the center of the dash behind the stereo. What wire I can splice into?
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I have a 1996 F250 460CI that was running great for years and all of a sudden it shut off for a few seconds when I was on the expressway. It was like turning the ignition key off and turning it back on. It did it several times and eventually just died and would not start. I put a new coil on and it worked fine for about 150 miles and now it started doing the same thing again. The check engine light was on for a few seconds but not all the time so I am not sure if diagnostic equipment will show any error messages. Mileage on my truck is 92k. Does this sound like a distributor pickup issue?
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I have a 1996 E350 7.3 pstd and it hasn't started since April... Van ran great but had bad bearings in the steering column. I changed out the bearings around the steering stem and it hasn't started since but turns over just fine. The main symptom is the dash loses power when key is rotating from the last run position to the spring back crank position. Basically halfway between run and start the the dash drops power. You can see the problem very well in this video I'm attaching.
I filmed this moths ago so the dash is in disarray and I'm using a screw driver to activate the ignition switch. The screw driver bypasses the key cylinder which I thought was the problem but it's not. Parts I've replaced include new glow plug relay, new ignition switch, alternator rebuilt, 2 brand new batteries, new cps sensor, and also a new pcm. All fuses and relays have been checked and most have been tested, pcm gets power in run position as well. Gotta get this thing figured out it's been sitting for 6 months
Watch the video : [URL] ....
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My 96 F-350 Crew Cab driver rear door lock is stuck in the locked position. I don't have a cause but do now notice that the pass door lock will not operate with the lock/unlock switch. The rear solenoids seem dead. Front door locks are working.
I tried to put a 10-32 coupling nut on the lock riser and pull. The down position is now 1/8-1/4" higher than normal. This thing is really stuck and is really bad.
So before I start pulling the rear seat and trying to remove the door panel from a closed door; how I might unlock this door? It would be a lot easier to get the panel off if it is open.
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The problem is that my headlights on my 1996 Cherokee Jeep XJ switch off unexpectedly. I can get them to come back on for extended periods by fiddling with the control knob in certain ways. This is the kind where you pull out of the knob to turn the lights on, and can rotate the knob to brighten or dim the dash.
If I pull a bit harder on the knob, the lights come on; if I twist this way just so, then off they go; that sort of thing. The fuses are fine and the contacts in the fuse box are clean. High beams work great no matter what (these are controlled from the steering column). I think the problem is at the control knob.
Now, how can I keep my headlights on when I turn them on every time without having to fight the gremlins? I think my next move is to remove the bezels and so on as best I can and get in there with some proper contact cleaner to see it's just built up gunk causing havoc. If that fails, or if that's a bad idea, what's next?
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Today my wife came home and said CEL was on, so I connected a bluetooth OBD2 reader (like I have done before) and read the codes, a P144a, which has something to do with the EVP. So, I shut the key off and proceeded to take the hose off of the EVP and unhook the wiring connector and then start the car to see if there was a vacuum leak through the valve. Well, when I went to start the car, it would not start. The Securilock icon was flashing on the dash and the car would only click, it would not turn over. I tried our spare key and got the same results.
I have tried unhooking the battery for 30 minutes but that has not made a difference either. Now, the key fob won't work at all, the door power locks won't work, the windows don't work, the radio, lights, heat and A/C won't work, and the dome lights won't come on. Whenever the battery is connected, I can hear a fast clicking sound coming from the area beneath and behind the radio and the front marker lights are on very very dim. The battery tests out at 12 volts. What in the world did I do and how can I fix it?
I should also note that I cannot get my OBD2 reader to connect to the system anymore. Also, after trying to leave the battery unhooked for 30 minutes again, the dome lights started working and the power locks would lock the door, but within about 3 seconds, the doors would automatically unlock. After turning the key to the start position, I again lost the dome lights and power locks.
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My 97 E350/460ci occasionally sets trouble code 4011. It clears every time I check it with my code reader. Something about insufficient secondary air injection. The dealer ship couldn't duplicate/diagnose the problem. Maybe something with the air injection solenoids.
Otherwise, it runs fine. I did notice on the passenger side of the engine compartment a large black metal filter looking thingie with about a 3/4" outlet that doesn't have any hose on it or seem to go anywhere else. Once in a while when you start it i hear a sort of soft popping noise for a few seconds that I would associate with the air pump.
Also can't get the ABS light to go away. It's out when you start it but as soon as you get going it comes on. I flushed the fluid and replaced the rear sensor to no avail. Also tried to flush out the front tone wheels and sensors.
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I'm not too knowledgeable about wiring and electrical systems. I'm getting a P1451 code (EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction) on my 99 4.2. I've read that it could be a bad solenoid, bad wiring, or a blown fuse. So far I've;
- checked (and changed) the related fuse
- checked the wiring for damage at the connector
- checked voltage at the connector (12 volts)
- checked the resistance at the solenoid (around 60 ohms)
- actuated the solenoid with a 9V battery (can hear it opening and closing)
I haven't had a chance to check the wiring all the way back up the frame to yet, but I noticed that the ground at the trailer wiring harness has broken off the frame. Would this potentially cause a fault in the upstream wiring? I'm going to slap a new connector on and bolt it back down anyway, but as it's Labour (Labor) Day I'll have to wait for the stores to be open tomorrow.
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I am a beginner when it comes to anything involving wiring. I am looking to re-wire all of the wiring coming off of the instrument cluster gauges. Once I have completed all of the wiring on the gauges, I may feel confident to move onto something else. As of rite now, it appears as though my truck is still running on all of the original wiring, and over the past few weeks, I have been having many wiring related issues. I found a schematic that includes the wiring for the gauges that I am going to go off of. I have a couple of questions before I begin.
1.) On the schematic, it shows connectors such as "Connector G" which is moving all of the gauges wires to there locations. Do I need to use a specific Ford connector, or could I purchase a new connector at any hardware store that carries them? As far as I am concerned, connectors do the same thing as all other connectors. (Let you connect and disconnect for easy instrument cluster removal.)
2.) I am not looking to purchase one of those expensive wiring harnesses. I would like to just purchase some wire that I can cut / use myself. What brand / type of wire should I be looking to purchase? I do not care if it is striped / colored as I will use wire tabs to name / label each wire.
Other than that, I feel confident enough to attempt something such as this. Here is the wiring schematic I am going to use.....
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Any COMPLETE headlight switch wiring diagram? Everything I find online only shows 2-3 wires in each sub connector, nothing with all wires and colors, and what they do. and of course the factory service manuals no longer work on my new computer. the switch and associated wires went up in smoke 2 hours ago, and this truck is my only means of transportation rite now. what i need is headlight wiring with colors so i can temporary hook up a toggle switch to have lights until the new switch and connectors come in next week. I went to pull the switch and connectors out of the parts truck, but of course that does not have fog lights so it uses different switch and connections.
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I plan on moving the engine/drivetrain from my 1986 F350 460 to my 1996 F250. I also want to move over the 1986's ignition system with a Duraspark 2 setup.
Although I could just cut in the easiest places to remove the wiring for later reuse I am looking for where to make the cuts, what to take and what to scrap. Alternatively I am also asking if there are aftermarket or OEM replacement sets out there are aren't a ton of money. The current harness in the 1986 has been sprayed with engine oil and cooked for 27 years so I am looking at alternative options if there are any.
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I have a 97 F250 HD. Wiring the rear tail lights. When we bought it the had cut off the wires going to both sides of the rear lighting assemblys and I was wondering what wire went to what i have the left turn signal working just can't seem to get the brake/back up light to work on that side and i can't figure out how to get the right side going either.
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Looking for a source for a wiring diagram for the 2003/4 f350 instrument cluster, specifically the wiring/connectors to the gauges? A link to a PDF file would be nice. I would like to try and disconnect the PCM control to the transmission temperature and engine temperature and drive the gauges from my own sensors to bypass the non-linear behavior that ford decided was in our best interest. I am NOT interested in installing any more gauges, just want to control the ones already present with my own signals. It is possible that these gauges are all addressable devices on a common bus, instead of individual controls.
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Just bought an 04 Super duty with the factory plug 7pin and 4 pin plug. Checked the fuses and finally tracked down the 2 relays under the hood but can't seem to find anything wrong. Everything on the trailer works except for the running lights. Is there another fuse or something I have missed? Trailer works fine on my buddies Duramax and worked fine on my old 97.
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Im installing a set of 04 lariat seats into a 00 truck. I need to know how to hook up the heat. The power part is no problem. What I thought was right which was a separate constant 12v and a switched 12v for the module and ground apparently isnt right. If somebody could ohm out their harness on a 01 truck that would be great. As I have it right now the light on the switch comes on but almost instantly turns off.
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Looking for a wiring diagram for a F-150 XLT LARIAT 5.8L 4BBL, all the books I have looked at show the wiring for this year with fuel injection and this truck came with a 351W with a Holley 600 4BBL, I have a few wire's in the engine compartment that melted away all the insulation, they are located close to where the harness passes the firewall before the ignition module. Is this a common problem on old models ?. Need a clear copy of the correct diagram for a f-150 1987 with carburetor, how I can get a copy so I can fix this problem before it gets worse.
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Let me start by saying electrical is something I really have no knowledge of....(never used any kind of an elec meter and don't have one) simple, Pos-grd and fuse, NP. I really don't want to fry something in these expensive new seats w/my normal trial and mostly ERROR!
The 08 (drivers) seat has 4 wires in the input clip.
GRN-RED (heavy gauge)
BLK-PURP (heavy gauge
BLU-RED
BLK-WHT
and my 01 whip out of the floor has a 3 wire setup.
GRN (heavy gauge)
BLK (heavy gauge)
BRN-BLU
I can wire PS side seat from fuse box and ground it NP. It only has a 2 wire set-up in the new seat.
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