GMC - Jimmy :: 1999 - When Turn The Key It Does Not Roll Over / Clicking In Kick Panel
Jun 13, 2015
I have a 1999 GMC Jimmy 4.3 Vortec. When you turn the key it doesn't roll over, all I can hear is a click in the passenger kick panel. I have checked the starter solenoid with a jumper and it is fine. After a ton of checking with a multimeter and swapping fuses and relays I found something- when I remove the 40A "ign A" fuse in the fuse panel under the hood and plug it back in, I turn the key and it fires right up and stays running. However if I shut it off and try to start a second time, it doesn't roll over and begins clicking in kick panel again.
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Bought an 01 Ranger 4x4. The 4wd doesn't work, no clicking in kick panel, lights etc. got a used unit and plugged it in, blew my brake switch fuse (#9 on side dash) I failed to disconnect the negative ground ( oops) the original part # in the truck is
1L547H417AC
Do I need to get the exact same part number on a donor vehicle? I can get a CM for 25.00 at a local pick n pull, they have a lot or explorers there. Also will this solve my fuse issue? The truck sat for a few months and the battery died before I owned it.
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I have a 1999 GMC Jimmy. Today I rolled my power front passenger window down and it's still there. Main Control panel on driver side won't roll it back up and passenger switch won't roll it up either. All other windows and locks work fine and I do not hear anything when trying to roll the window up. Does this automatically mean the motor just went out all of a sudden?
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Jow to best remove the passenger side kick panel on my 2001 superduty. There is a plug I am looking for to make the clearance lights work. It looks like the kick panel continues under the door threshold. I don't want to remove any more than I have to.
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I have a 99 gmc jimmy. Head lights and tails lights work. But not the Hazard and or turn signals. I checked fuses. I'm thinking it might be the plug under the ash tray. But I don't want to pull off the dash to find out it isn't that.
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I have a 1999 f-150 and am having a problem that I cannot pin down . After starting the truck and running it for 10 min or so I shut it off and it will not restart again for approx. 3-4 hrs . When you turn the key there is a clicking noise coming from behind the fuse panel . Also the truck will not start if temp outside rises above 80 degrees . Is there a replaceable relay under there or is it the computer module ? Battery is new .
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How to remove the drivers side kick panel? It has the hood release lever, which is holding me back from figuring out how to get it off. I don't want to keep experimenting because of the chance of breaking something. I'm trying to install some after market speakers and need to get behind it to run the speaker wire to the door.
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The clicking sound that my car makes when the blinker is on- continues to go off when the blinker is not on. It only stops when I press the brakes. Its been going on for 2 weeks....
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Batteries charged, connection & cables checked. After turning ignition switch, gauges on dash jump around & starts clicking in fuse panel. Top left relay then clicking sound from beside steering column on right side next to trailer brake box. Been having electrical issues & something draining batteries...had absolutely no cold start this winter. No decent mechanics here other than to be ripped a new one @ local dealership.
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1999 Buick Regal. Instrument panel lights will not come on when we turn on the headlights. The dimmer knob is turned correctly. I've checked all the appropriate fuses (I think). The radio display is also affected. The time display almost completely dims out. This even happens when the headlights come on automatically at dusk.
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Awhile back I did get my battery replaced and I did reset my windows so they could be used from the driver side panel. As of now, I can roll down all of them from the driver side except for the passenger side rear (window diagonal from driver). The window does roll down from the door itself so the window isn't broken. The light on the driver window switch is lit green, not blinking. However, the light on the window switch on the passenger door is NOT lit and not blinking either. And yes, I did make sure the window lock was not on.
Could the switch, either passenger or driver door, be bad? Should the battery be disconnected and reconnected??
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I have a 2000 Jimmy and it just won't start. All lights come on and horn works. No crank when I turn the key. I had this problem before and the problem was a bad starter relay. I replaced the relay. The vehicle started up fine and ran fine for a few days. I went to start it this morning and it wouldn't. Battery is good, changed the plugs, wires, starter, cap and rotor within the last 8 months. Someone made a reference to my security system. Are there known electrical problems/interference between security system and other systems?
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My father tried to jump start my 1994 GMC Jimmy and it began smoking at the jumper cables and battery. We removed the cables. The battery was completely dead. So we went to get a new battery. Now the car has no power whatsoever. No lights, and will not even attempt to turn over. I was told that the car may be dead, for good. That perhaps the electrical is fried. Is there anything I can check to see if this is not the case. Do I need to check the alternator, or change the fusable link?
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I have an issue with my 2003 golf 2.0 ac I've done everything that I cloud thing of to check but I still have this issue so here it is. The air coming out of the vents is warm, compressor Clush turn on but doesn't kick off. I hook up ac gauges and it reads 70 on low side and 155 on high side with an ambient temperature of 80. The system has freon, I check fans and they are on when compressor kicks in all relays and fuses are fine.
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I have an 03 ranger and my driver side window will not roll down... My pass side rolls down just fine...when I push the down button all I get is a clicking noise out of what seems to be a little black box underneath the driver side dash and I can actually physically feel the clicking along with hearing it... When I push up on the button I get no noise or anything... this might be the motor...the regulator...or the actual switch?
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I have been having problems with my drivers side power window on my 06 Ford F-150. At first, it would roll down, but wouldn't roll back up, so I replaced the switch. After replacing the entire power window control switch, if you push the switch for the drivers window down, it will start to go down, then stop, and you have to press it about 20 times to get it all the way down. You can definitely hear the switch clicking off. All the other windows work perfect. I took it to get the oil changed and asked about it, and they said to change out the regulator, which I did, but the same thing happens. I checked the fuse and that was fine. Is there a relay or something I should check?
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I've noticed this sound coming from the instrument panel area for a while now. It comes and goes, sometimes starts in the middle of driving, sometimes starts right when I start the car. It almost sounds like I have the turn signal on, but that's not it. There isn't much to see - the video is mainly so you can hear the sound.
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Still trying to track down my electrical issues. While poking around in the engine compartment near the fuse panel by firewall - i heard a clicking sound coming from the two cylinders near the fuse panel.
They are cylinders - side by side - about 1 1/2 inch wide and 2 inches tall - with electrical connections and either fuel or vacuum lines attached. What are these? Some sort of solenoids? Are they part of the EVAP system?
How long should they continue to "click" after the car is turned off? Mine kept going for a half hour. I then disconnected the left side battery and it stopped. 5 hours later after fully charging the battery I hooked it up again - and the clicking came back. Is this normal or could it be a source of my battery drain?.
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what makes my car jerk when i get to 50 mph?
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Intermittent problem, occurred 4 times during past 4 weeks, always during wet/rainy/damp weather. Three times when car was sitting overnight, once at work in parking lot after a 12 hour work shift. Each time, the engine started 5 or 6 times then died like someone turned the key off two seconds after the engine started. Then the engine would not crank or turn over, just some clicking near the relay box under the hood. Lights, power windows, etc. all work fine. Battery voltage OK. Jump starting or battery charger makes no difference. Note: With key in "run" position, no display to odometer though all idiot lights light up like normal.
1st time, after about 15-20 minutes, car started. 2nd time, towed to my mechanic (who thought security system lock out) then a second tow to dealer. Dealer found power into power distribution center but none out. Replaced PDC. Car worked fine for 1 week. Same problem twice since repair. First post repair failure I had van re-towed to dealer. Of course, it started for them. Left overnight 2 more nights. Started for them every time. They say it is a "problem with computers" but they don't know exactly what. They also say the Alarm set Dash light is coming on with the rest of the dash lights and that is a no-no. 2nd post repair failure happened this morning. Tried locking door to reset alarm. No change. Locked doors, opened rear hatch. Lights flashed but horn did not sound. When car is working and I do that (open hatch with other doors locked), in addition to lights flashing, horn beeps! I also disconnected the positive battery terminal, waited 10 minutes, reconnected and attempted restart. No change. Car still won't start and odometer display does not work.
Van has 110,000 miles. Otherwise in fantastic shape and runs great (though only gets about 20MPG). Owned van for 2 months and have driven about 7,000 miles. 1st problem I've encountered (other than a very uncomfortable drivers seat - feels like a spring is sprung!)
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I have am 1999 Infiniti i30t. My car will not crank/start up. When I turn the key there is only a clicking sound. But the car lights & hazard lights do work. What I think I'm hearing is the alternator when I try to start it. We have tried to jump start it, no success. Jump starting the battery got it going but it would only last about 5 minutes before it was dead again. When I turn the key there is just a clicking sound.
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