GMC - Sierra :: 2000 - Violent Popping Noise On Passenger Side And Truck Simply Slowed To A Stop
Jan 14, 2015
Son's 2000 GMC Sierra, 200000 miles, 4.8L engine, automatic transmission and 4WD. Was driving home from a trip to the store - heard a "violent popping noise" on the passenger side and the truck simply slowed to a stop. Engine running fine, all sounds fine while idling. When we put it into any gear, I can "feel" it go into gear but the truck doesn't move forward or back. Just changed differential, transfer case, and transmission fluids about two months ago.
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I recently developed a tapping/popping noise come from the passenger's side of my GLI. The noise is kind of hard to explain, it's similar to the popping sound the seats make every once in awhile when you move around in them, if that makes any sense. I can't really get a video of the sound because I don't think it's quite loud enough. It's starting to get worse, and getting aggravating. It's not coming from the seat, it's more up near the front of the car, maybe where the door hinges are? I can't really pinpoint it.
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Almost every single time I put my .:R in reverse and the car starts moving I hear a popping noise with pauses in between each pop. I think it might be a ball joint and the noise is coming from the front passenger side.
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I had the struts replaced a few months ago along with the strut mounts and bearings. Since then I've developed a popping and clunking noise from the passenger side spring/mount area. I've greased it and it has quieted it down but I noticed that when the car is not moving and I turn the wheel from lock to lock that very top piece of the strut pretty sure it's called the hat moves along with the wheels while the drivers side does not. What's wrong? Is it something as simple as the nut being to lose or to tight?
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My passenger side power window does not work from the drivers side control, but works from the passenger control. I replaced the master switch on the driver side and it still does not work. I have checked the fuses--Side, below and under the hood and have even found inline fuses below--all were good. Could the dealer have to program my new switch? I do not have child safety locks.
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2000 Sierra 2500 pickup truck. What would cause my truck to stall randomly and not start? Then after waiting a while it will start.
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My passenger side power mirror won't move up and down anymore. It started out just moving very slow, now no moving. Side to side works fine, power folding is fine also. Does the up/down motor is replaceable or do I have to replace the whole mirror.
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Have a 1998 F-150....heard a strange noise coming from the front passenger side of the truck. Parked and turned the wheel and heard something fall off. It appears to be a shield of some sort.
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The other day, I changed my front brakes just the pads. Everything came out smooth but then later that day i started to notice a clicking noise coming from the passenger side brake I suppose. You can't hear it when you drive or when braking early but you start to hear it when the car slows down and your coming to a stop. Its a constant clicking noise within like 1 or 2 seconds of each other. Its not loud, but its very noticeable with music off. And not to mention, very annoying.
I'm about to take everything apart and reinstall everything to see whats up. BTW its a 2006 GS300 Front brakes. Finding a picture of the wheel off with rotors and whole brakes on. I think I might of put on a clip wrong.
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A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
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I have a 2000 Sierra and my driver's side brake light won't work but the light bulb is not bad. The Passenger side light, however works. What should I check on the truck to solve this problem. Would it be between where the bulb snaps in and where the plug for the lights plug into the truck under the bed or should I check something else?
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Concerning my recently purchased '99 GMC Sierra 1500 2wd 4.8L...
There is a seemingly undiagnosable, not that noticeable, rubbing noise that seems to come from the front passenger wheel - one rub for every revolution of the wheel. It is fairly subtle and can be felt (subtle) in the steering wheel between 30mph and 45mph. I don't think a lot of people would notice it and anyone that did would probably just turn up the radio at this point. After all, this truck has a very solid drive train and runs amazingly smooth for its age and mileage (172K)
Here are the repairs I have made that you might be about to suggest:- New front bearing/ hub assemblies on both sides within the last year. No play in any of the wheels.- New tires from Firestone within last month.- New tie rod ends and alignment. - New rotors, pads, and flex lines on front. Refurbished caliper on passenger side front.- New pads, calipers, and flex lines on rear. (one of the calipers had seized and I thought I had finally found the problem... not.) (one of the flex lines was the wrong part and was rubbing up against the rim... I thought that was the problem... not.)
Here are the things you are about to suggest I check:- Transmission, rear axle bearings, etc checked out by my trusted transmission shop. - Wheel well shields are firmly attached.
Things I haven't yet fixed : tail pipe bracket, evap emission solenoid assembly, blower fan resistor thingy, crappy door latch.
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My 2014 TDI SEL has just recently begun making a weird noise..
At around 48-60 MPH, a very low frequency hum begins and it persists until the car has slowed almost to a stop. It is not related to road speed or engine RPM.
It is getting louder and more noticeable every day. I took the car to the local dealer and they could not hear it. I'm wondering if it is an electronically controlled fan or pump or part of the stability or antilock systems.
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So I just picked this car up, (2000 20v turbo passat) 93k miles and I did a tune up (plugs, air filter, oil change w/ oil stabilizer, and injector cleaner) when i was out beating on the car a little, afterward I got to a stop sign, and i heard a VERY LOUD noise coming from the passengers side under the hood, it almost sounded like a loud motor, or the turbo but it was too loud to really determine... it was only there for about 10 sec then turned off but came on again about 1 min later. is this a bad bearing in the turbo? or what might it be?
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So I just don't have any luck with anything turbo related. Last time it was my intercooler that went out. Now the passenger side intercooler tube keeps popping off and the damn clamp is broken so I can't tighten back up to even get me to the damn truck stop. I guess it could be worse...it could be late at night and raining...oh what, it is.
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Within the last few days whenever I am backing up there tends to be a low hum noise coming from the passenger side tire when backing up and with no pressure on the brakes. The noise is not present at any time other then backing up so I am really unsure what could be causing it.
What could be causing this before I work on it. I know its not having any problem braking as well as it is also driving straight when the steering wheel is let go in drive.
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85 2.0L Dura Ranger.
All of the Idle control wiring and box and sensors have been removed; all else is original. The truck ran just fine after the removal of the above paraphernalia (years). The truck simply quit, no spark at the coil, cranks just fine. All of the wiring has been checked for continuity. The Following components have been replaced with new:
Ignition switch.
Coil.
Dura-spark Box.
Dist coil.
Starter solenoid.
Rotor & Cap.
Plugs and wires.
Correct voltage is present at the coil & D-spark box side of the connector.
Coil tests close to what I think is correct for resistance and the engine ran with it.
I have tested both sides of every connector. I'm not sure what the output side of the D-Spark box (blue tab) voltages should be, and I am unable to test the trigger signal at the coil, however with no output and power in I'm guessing that is the problem...
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I have a 2000 Mercury Cougar with about 145k miles.
Today I was driving and when I slowed down to come to a stop it acted as if it wanted to cut off by sputtering. As I got down to about 5-10mph the engine shut off (the radio and everything else was still running) I noticed that as I was slowing down right before it shut off, the RPM was going very low, almost down to zero.
I do have check engine, and low coolant level lights on.For the check engine there are a few codes.1. Something with the catalytic convertor2. 02 Sensors3. Transmission slippage4. I think there was something else but I forgot.
I do need new motor mounts. The oil light comes only when I am idle and after driving for a good 5-10min. I changed my oil about a month and a half ago though.The only time there is issues is upon stopping. Driving and acceleration is fine.
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I have a 2002 sc430 with 120000 miles, great car no problems just maintenance. For the last couple of days I heard a chirping sound as I slowed down to a stop. The only thing I could think was the brakes, but I just changed the front and rear pads March 2011. So today I looked at the front brakes and saw the pads at about 50% and everything else looked good. Then went to the rear and saw something I thought was odd...take a look at the picture.... The last time I changed the pads I don't recall having this problem. See the red arrow, one of the pads is worn almost completely down and the circle shows a lip on both pads??? I checked the caliper pistons and they work fine, the pin that hold the pads is not bent and the clips are fine.
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I have Nissan Sentra GXE year 2000 model and it has 143K miles on it. I get a hammering noise on the front passenger side wheel when I apply brake. I did replace caliper, brake master cylinder, rotors, brake pads and brake shims but no luck. The noise is like "ta ta ta ta.." and it gets louder based on speed of car. Brake pads and rotors been replaced 3 times in last 2 years to get rid of noise and been seen by 4 mechanics so far no one could find the exact problem. I also took the car to Nissan dealership they also recommend changing brake pad and rotors which I already did thrice.
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I recently noticed a humming noise coming from the passenger side on my Mazda Protege 2000 ES . I suspected it was the water pump, so I took the car to my mechanic. He inspected the coolant reservoir and it was empty. He also checked the noise and the area were the pump is, and told me that the water pump had to be replaced.
My dad told me that his 1994 Sentra had the water pump replaced but none of these things had to be done and that it was unnecessary. But then I thought, every car is different.
I was in shock with how much the repair would cost, so he then gave me another quote with just the timing belt and water pump replacement for $503, but this time he said that he will not give me any warranty for the repairs because of the tensioner.
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