GMC - Sierra :: 2005 - Blower Fan Would Not Run On Highest Setting
Apr 4, 2012
So I have a 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 pickup that is in great condition. Recently, I have noticed that in the mornings on my way to work the blower fan would not run on the highest setting. After a while of driving, the highest setting would then work. This happened for about two weeks. Now, the blower will not turn on at all on any setting. Thought it might a simple fuse, but that looks fine. Should I take it to the shop? Could it be the blower motor that needs to be replaced?
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My A/C has been making a loud noise for a couple months now ,only when I put the A/C on the highest setting. I was LONG overdue for a cabin air filter change so I bought a new one and while I was down there I looked inside the blower motor and here's what I saw... It is now blowing fine and not making a noise . Sprayed some Ozium New Car spray on the new cabin air filter and my car is smelling great now !
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2002 Dodge Ram 3500 van (engine unknown, but I think it doesn't matter). Blower operate only at highest speed setting. OK, that's the classic symptom of a failed resistor. Replacements are readily available at chain parts stores.
Where is the resistor located? This video shows me for a 2002 Ram 1500 van. Will it be the same on the 3500?
I've learned here that sometimes resistor failure results from bearings going bad in the blower, causing excessive current draw. Is there a way to test that other than with an ammeter? What's the correct current?
2a. If the blower motor is going bad, is that something we'll be able to replace ourselves? (Yes, I should tell them to get a Haynes or Chilton.) I don't like the idea of taking off dashboard panels.
2b. Is there any other "prime cause" I should look for if the blower motor seems OK?
Are there any other parts (other than the switch) whose failure would also give that symptom?
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My HVAC blower switch only works when I put it on 5 (the highest setting). What needs to be replaced (besides the whole truck)?
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My 2010 Expedition Limited AC seems to be stuck in the highest fan speed setting. Changing the setting on the panel control do nothing to change the speed. But you can adjust the temp and it will respond. It is a dual control unit. When I try to turn the system to off completely it will go to what I believe is the vents and stay on full blast. If I turn the truck off and on again the whole system remains off until I turn it on again. The only way to turn it completely off is to turn it to off mode and turn the truck off.
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Installing STs on my mk6 tomorrow. Doing it in a steep driveway. want to be on the highest setting when I leave. regular v1 st coil over.
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I drive a 2012 E, and this is not about mine. It's a buddy whom has a 2013 or 2014 (I think all of the fan hardware is identical). His fan stopped working on the three lowest settings, but still blows fine on the highest setting.
Perhaps resistors knock the current down for the lower settings and they have failed? Just a wild guess....
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So compared to my old Jetta, these wipers are "fairly" slow at the highest seeting, and in a down poor at 70 mph they do not clear the windshield fast enough.
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I have a 2007 Nissan Versa and my AC will only run on the highest setting. The dealership suggested that the whole panel with AC dials needed to be replaced, they did say they were not sure this was the problem. In doing some research on the web I did see discussion regarding a Nissan Altima that had what sound like a similar problem and the fix was a part called the "blower resistor" which was much cheaper and could be fixed at home.
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I thought I wouldn't have need of the defrost for several months yet, but today we had unusually cold rain and my windows soon fogged up. The fan (not a/c) was already running at a very low setting (one or two clicks only) when I depressed the defrost button. Roughly 15 seconds later, it was like a hurricane in the cabin! The fan moved to the highest setting all by itself. This did clear the windshield in seconds, but it was a bit disconcerting. This phenomenon repeated itself all three times that I engaged the defrost button. Is the defrost supposed to do that? I swear, the sudden change startled me so much, I hit my head on the ceiling of the cabin...
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Thought for sure that would fix my fan speed, but nope. Replaced blower control module, Still only blows on the highest setting. Didn't try running it on auto, but that's what it did on manually turning the speed up. What else could it be?
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My blower fan will not run on setting 1. on 2 3 and 4 it will work but not on the lowest setting. I replaced the relay and it still doesn't work. I have a 2010 f150 with the 2v 4.6 .....
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My Wife has a 1984 and I have a 1985 Toyota Pickup, 2wd, 22R engine, same dash and almost same everything. There are 4 settings on the selector switch (horizontal lever switch moving from left-to-right) for the blower fan: "Off", "Low", "Med" & "High". In both trucks, the "Low" setting for the BLOWER FANS quit working, but the other settings still work fine and amount heat-output is fine(so this is a FAN problem and not a "heating" problem).
Is the problem in the switch itself?, or in the blower fan resistor?, or in the blower fan motor? From what I've read elsewhere, it seems to be a blower fan Resister problem that is most likely. If that is the case, where exactly should I be looking for it and will I need to remove the dashboard? And what does it look like? I've seen a small black object about 1"x 1.75"x 1.75" and it has an Amperage listing on it and it's next to a Relay that seems to be related to the heater. I'm guessing that thing is not the resister if it's labeled "Amperage", I would think it should have an "Ohms" symbol or word or rating on it if it were the resistor, or is that really "it".
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My grandson keep his 93 GMC K1500 w/5.7L auto running till he gets out of college. The problem is the engine stalls (sometimes) when put into gear (D or R) and more often when the lights and heater blower are turned on. There were two codes in the pcm (42 & 43) both referring to ignition problems. We did a tune up and erased the codes. After driving the truck for a week the pcm has no codes but the engine still stalls. We cleaned the IAC pintel and seat thinking there might be an air control problem, no luck. The repair manual mentioned ignition advance as a problem particularly the ESC. The manual says this part is on the side of the throttle body but we can not find it.
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My 2001 f350 a/c blower works better on a/c compared to max a/c . When I turn the selector to max a/c it makes more of a blowing noise but less air blows out of the vents though. When I select plain a/c it makes less noise but blows more air out of the vents. What is wrong and how to go about fixing it is 93 here today and won't get much cooler over the summer months .
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I have a a 2005 Camry LE.
Just purchased new OEM front head light lenses.
Looking into lighting options.
If I go with stock bulbs I would like to use watt bulbs on high beams.
What are the highest watt bulbs I can out in without damaging lenses or wiring?
I think it is easy to upgrade wiring harness if needed.
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I just purchased a used truck that was originally from Canada. The settings on the temperature control are all in Celsius. how (or if if can convert) to Fahrenheit
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I have noticed if I turn on the AC and set it to any front defrost setting (either full front defrost or mix front defrost and lower vents) and turn up the heat that when I turn it on the next day there is a horrible smell. If I run the AC and turn the temperature up there is no smell so long as I don't use any setting using the front defrost. The smell is bad enough that I have to open the windows to air out the car. After a few minutes the smell goes away.
The car is an '06 XL. I noticed it intermittently when I first got it two years ago, but this winter the smell happens every time I use the AC on any front defrost mode. My guess is the heating element under the front windshield. If I turn on the heat without the AC on any front defrost setting I do not have the problem.
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A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
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I'm looking to buy a used 2005-2007 6.0L and bought a ScanGauge to take with me when I look at the next truck I'll be considering. I dont have a truck now and I see that the ScanGauge derives power from OBD port of the truck. Is there any other way to set it up in advance?
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I recently got another blower motor for my vibe. Got it installed but nothing happened. I replaced the resistor as well. Once I found the secret hidden fuse panel I found that the 40a fuse was blown. I replaced it and it blew instantly upon turning the ignition on, the resistor was unplugged at the time. I am wondering if there could be a short in the wire harness.
The blower went bad a while ago and blew a resistor, I replaced it and it ran for a while until some smoke came out of the dash and then nothing.
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