GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: 2004 GLI Started Jolting Like Going To Stall And Check Engine Light On
Nov 18, 2011
So yesterday i was driving fine and all of the sudden the car started jolting like it was going to stall and the check engine light came on. I pulled over popped the hood to see if there was anything i could see and got back in and took off no problem and the light went off. I starting pushing it and accelerating it to see if it would come back on and it didnt. Today it started doing the same thing but this time the light stays on and every time i change gears it does that jolting like its going to stall.
Its a 2004 gli 6 speed gli 1.8t ....
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I chipped my car with unitronics stage 2 3 weeks ago. 300 mile later the check engine came on. 42 DD down 3" to 2.5 cb no DV yet.
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So I just recently bought a 20th anniversary GTI with 80k miles on it that I'm really happy with. However, the guy who sold it to me, neglected to put gas in the car. I know that the car is suggested to take Premium, however I put Plus gasoline in it. About 20 minutes of driving later, my Check Engine Light came on, and I'm a bit worried as to what the reason for this might be. What the issue might be. I checked the gas cap numerous times, as I know that many people neglect to screw it on correctly, so I doubt that would be the problem.
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I seem to have a big loss of power. I just got my 337 last week and it was faster than expected with the GIAC chip. I drove down to mass in the rain last weekend and now it seems slow as hell. My question is does a bad coil pack cause a check engine light to go on? My car's check engine light is NOT on and I do have a boost gauge, and it seems to be boosting normal so I imagine it is not a boost leak. If it were misfiring I imagine I would really know it, but I've never had a misfire on a turbo car so I am not sure how bad it is affected.
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If you don't have a high flow cat on, will it throw ur check engine light on, saying its the rear 02 sensor....
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I have a 337 and the check engine light came on a couple months ago and i got the clutch safety switch replaced. but I forgot to take the light back off with my friends snap on tool. the car runs fine now but another friend with a TDI jetta said something about a master ecu reset? something like turn the key in the on position then hold the gas pedal for like 15 secs? I tried it but nothing happened. I just want the light to go away...
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I have a 2003 20th ann. GTI, it shut off on me on my way to work. It would turn on but only for a sec and turn back off. I turned it on and tried to move it over out the way of traffic and wouldnt move and turn back off. Got the check engine light checked and the codes P1007 which is coolant temp sensor and P0011 which is camshaft sensor. I replaced both and problem not solved car will start but wont go and turns back off, black smoke and a strong smell of gas comes out the exhaust.
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I have a 20th anni GTI. I was driving down the road about a week ago going about 50 in 5th gear. all of a sudden when i go to give it gas my car starts lagging and the check engine light starts flashing on and off. I used a check engine light tester to figure out the possible problems and found that cylinder 2 misfired.
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So i start my car up drive about fifty feet and my temp gauge shoots all the way up, check engine light comes on and coolant light keeps going off......What is wrong with my car?
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So I go and get my oil change on Sunday at a local place. Oil change is done and later that evening my engine light comes on (solid orange). I call the local VW service and they say its nothing to worry about. "Maybe a little moisture got inside my gas tank." The service manager said to continue to drive it like nothing is wrong and it should go off. Here I am two days later and its still on. So should I be worried?
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When I bought my 2003 20th it was completely stock, except for a pos blow off valve had been installed, and get this, the diverter valve was left on, and just capped off. I installed a no name CAI, and the check engine light came on, i had it turned off and when i start the car, or rev the engine high at all, triggers again.
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I have an 2002 Volkswagen GTi 337 edition with the 1.8t engine in it. My check engine light came on so I went to my local autozone to check the code and that's what code it threw on the ODBII sensor. It says my problem could be a "failed clutch vacuum vent valve switch". It also revs about 100-200 rpms extra in between shifts and I'm not a mechanic but know a little about cars. I just don't know if I should replace the OEM clutch safety switch or what I should do about this.
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I was driving when the truck made a terrible noise and while pulling over the check engine light went on as well as low oil pressure. I turned off truck and checked but no evidence of any leakage at all. Checked oil stick and was dry. Let sit for an hour and checked oil stick to find about 1/2" showing. Added oil to find that now it was overfull, drained oil back and stick showed proper level. Attempted to drive and it was fine until I came to a stop wherein it would stall with "low oil pressure" showing and check engine light on. Brought to shop and they said engine is very gunked up, they said they could try oil flush but probably will not work. They most likely will have to remove the valve cover and such to physically look at engine and take it from there... (I have always used type of oil stated on the cap, used synthetic and changed every 5-7k miles - showed diagnostic codes p0011, p0340, p0345 and p0021).
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So I'm new to the vw world and my 337's engine started to flutter abnormally. So I searched up and down google and vwvortex to troubleshoot the problem. turns out i needed to change my dv so I bought a new one, replaced it how the old one was set up and my engine began to shake and seemed as if it was knocking. Forge DV 007...
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So I was driving on the FWY cruising around 70MPH when all of the sudden my car started to decelerate for no reason without me releasing the gas pedal. I am guessing its my fuel filter or fuel pump.
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The car is a 2005.5 GLI (75k mi) w/ EvoTech Stg1 software, GHL stack intake, and an Iridium billet diverter valve.
Well today I was driving and the Malfunction Indicator Light on the dash came on and started blinking. When I stepped on the accelerator, the car felt like it had 1/4 the power and began shaking. The car idles kind of weakly, and feels like it has no power when you step on the gas. Also, when you step on the gas the car will shake. The strength of the shaking depends on how hard I press on the throttle, more throttle = more shaking. There is no shaking when it idles or when I have it cruising, only when accelerating.
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So I was exiting the freeway the other day. It was a long gradual sweeping left hand turn. And I was doing about 80 mph and the traction control light started flashing and the car started to hesitate a bit. What this could be. Btw I have a 2005 gli intake,exhaust,chipped. Not lowered stock bbs rc's...
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So a week ago i needed to change my mass air sensor due to every time it was raining it would almost stale and my check engine light was on. Now this week both my traction and engine lights are on always. When i start my car u. The morning it turns over but almost dies due to The rpms so low basically it's almost stalling if i give it gas usually it kicks it over then stays on no problem. ALSO if i reev high i hear a little grind or moan noise as well.
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Stop check coolant light came on dash tonight. Scanned the car no code. Did a search pointed towards coolant temp sensor. Car had it replaced by vw estimate of 30,000 miles ago. I tried to see if its green top sensor appears the very bottom ring is green but top is black maybe vw's is different than ecs? Planning to do water pump, belt kit from ecs anything else i should be looking at?
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