GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Boost Get Lower When In Upper Gears
Oct 2, 2008
For some reason My car won't boost like it used to in the upper gears. 1st, 2nd and even 3rd I can still boost around 18 but once I go 4th, 5th, 6th my boost get lower and lower to the point the I get only 10psi in 6th gear. The car also seems slower a doesn't spool that fast like it used. i checked most of the hoses, even my intercooler pipes which were leaking before and everything is tight. Could it be my DV which is still stock or should I look someplace else?
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I'm to the point of driving the car off a cliff! I've included a log of the car acting upt. The car is a 20th AE GTI AWP. It was chipped all it's life and ran like a champ. In November I installed a Frankenturbo F21T turbo kit, Bosch EV14 550cc injectors, 3" MAF, eBay FMIC, 3" catted exhaust, and a custom tune from Motoza. Dave at Motoza has updated the file 4 times and no matter what he changes, the car will boost up to the requested boost of 19psi and hold it for almost one second, then boost will drop to 12-15psi and then boost past the request to like 22-24 psi and go back and forth until the gear is over and I shift. Then it does the same thing in the next gear. i just want a solid 18-20psi without a manual boost controller! Things I have tried:
-Changed the N75J back to a NEW stock N75
-Replaced all the N75 vacuum lines
-Wastegate cracks at 7-8psi
-Replaced every worm feed clamp to a nice T-bolt clamp
-Boost leak tested to 18psi and found no leaks
-Deleted SAI, N249, and N112
-Unplugged MAF, nothing changed
LOG with multiple WOT pulls: [URL]...
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I have a 20th 1.8t. It was running fine last week but all of the sudden i was only getting about 4-5 psi. I have check all over vwvortex for somewhat of an answer. I have no C.E.L.. I have checked for vacuum leaks with nothing coming up. I tried to check for boost leaks but it comes out of the dipstick hole. I have undone and re-installed the pancake pipe. The DV is holding pressure.
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when the traction control is off my boost hits 18psi and there have been times where it was 20 psi. My friend said i probably have stage 1 software .
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Start with the basics, no CEL's, car has not cut out while driving and I've only had to attempt cranking up the car twice since I started noticing these issues about 6 months ago.
Symptoms: hesitation/variation in boost during acceleration- doesn't matter if I really get into the gas or just "normal" passing acceleration RPM's steadily climb, but just not as consistent or quickly. Also, the one that really has me really confused. With a 1/4 tank of gas or less, going up a slight incline (overpass); 70-mph-ish... acceleration dies off, rpm's slowly decline, and gas pedal doesn't respond for about 2-3 seconds. Car never shuts off, no CEL's, then everything is fine again! Even does it when I'm using cruise control. Car just rolled 110,000 miles
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I'm not sure what to make of this ... I disconnected the battery before installing . The gauge seems to be reading correct based on what i researched. If there was a slight leak would it throw the CEL ? is it maybe just a one time thing that needs to be cleared afterwards ? Car drives fine and I plan on trying to stop at autozone to get there crapo freebie scan . Kinda annoyed considering everything went smoothly up until I drove the car more then 50 miles .
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So I have a 20th AE with 113k Miles.
All of engine is stock, but when I FLOOR it from about 3rd-4th or sometimes 2nd-3rd the car will build up boost but release it without me letting go off pedal.
So, basically as I am driving the car sort of builds up, drops, builds up, drops without my doing anything but drive.
It will rev to about 3k stop for a second, rev to 4k stop for a split second, rev to 5k and so on... Not sure what this is or why it could be happening...
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Having trouble with car going into limp mode or just not boosting at all. Tried some basic things to fix it, plugs, coilpacks, tune, none have work.
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So I just installed a boost gauge. Vacuum line is running off the fuel pressure regulator. My boost is now not going over 10 psi and the engine is cutting out. It kinda feels like the dv isn't holding psi but just always open. The car is a 05 gli with intake and exhaust.
Also the car seems to be running alright at below 2000 rpm and it just starts to cut out when it should be making boost. And I'm pretty sure this car is reprogrammed because yesterday when I finished the boost gauge install it was running at19 psi.
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When I hit the gas and my turbo reached high boost (15 psi and up), it would slightly sputter and make an odd sound. I even noticed my exhaust made a different exhaust note than usual. While it sputtered the CEL began flashing. I then drove it normally (not high boost) all the way home and it drove completely fine. I'm gonna try and get my codes checked tomorrow.
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Car now has about 67,000 miles on it. I drove it from the bay to Lake Tahoe 2 weeks ago, which is when I first noticed the light. I tried to go to a couple of autozone's to get the code read but none of them would do it. I also noticed that now on my boost gauge that i am only reading 4-5psi under load, so its not quite feeling like i'm getting as much power as before. What a common issue is at about this many miles on a 1.8t car? (GLI)
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If your diverter valve is bad, will it throw a CEL or not always? I don't have a CEL but sometimes I feel like there is a lag in the boost. Wondering if the diverter valve is bad or not.
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Sometimes while driving if i accelerate the car fully the rpms will accelerate way to fast (at least 2x faster than usual) without picking up much speed at all. I can tell that the car is not going to full boost. The problem is the worst in 5th and 6th gear (when the car is relying more on boost im guessing?) and will happen one day and be perfectly fine the next. I just had the car checked for a boost leak about 3 weeks ago so i dont think its that. The car is chipped with uni stage 1+ (20psi) and has a full 3 inch turboback.
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I installed a brand new "A line" 007 last night. Now I have ridiculous boost surge (15psi then to 5psi, then holds 11 hard) I did a N75 race valve last year (ECS), so I have my doubts that it is the N75. So what gives? The car wasnt that bad with a blown stock DV compared to this. I have minor mods: CAI, exhaust, Forge TIP, APR stage 1.
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I've had this problem a while but now i want to get around to fixing it.. my boost gauge is always at 0 now and sometimes when i drive the car it starts working but it starts like sticking... like when i didn't have my chip it would go up and down really fast between 10 - 15psi... i heard from a friend that you can take it apart and re-adjust some screws or something so it works like a charm... right now its just like frozen at 0 psi when i drive it doesnt go down or up.
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Was driving the other day and one of the couplers came loos and I lost boost and went into limp mode. I pulled over, got it reattached, and after that it would only hit 10 lbs. i have a KO4-001 with the GIAC file and it usually hits 20+ and holds 20 lbs. I have a regular code reader and I had a code for the EBC, cleared it, rechecked the hoses, and verified with the flash loader that I was on the correct file, but it is still only hitting 10 lbs. What else I should check.
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There ended up being 6 or 7 codes. Originally the first O2 sensor and wire seemed to go bad, I replaced them and it ran well for a couple days and then started running like ass again...Now there are a few codes, none for the 02 sensor, but for over boost issues...Does this mean my n75J valve is causing the problems? Is it possible that my software is just going bad? ...I bought the car somewhat molested and don't quite know the extent of the parts on it, nor the brands( specifically, the software...).
The current codes being thrown:
P0238 mani pres g31 sig to high
P0234 overboost
P0106mani barometric sensor g31
We replaced the manifold pressure sensor, and am not having the issues but they could and probably will come back after 50 or so miles...Previous code also was P1114 02 sensors and we replaced the front sensor. It may be that the software that is on the car is starting to go..
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I am running the GIAC X+ 93 octane tune with a cold air intake and when i hit full boost it fluctuates from 20 to 15 through out the gear. i am guessing its because of my stock dv. im looking in buying the eurojet dv.
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Purchased my first VW. I bought a 2003 IY 20th AE with 83k mi.
Two days ago, i'm picking up a friend at their house and as i go to take off from a complete stop- 1st gear revs up as if the car were in neutral, same thing with 2nd gear. 3rd-6th work normally and so does reverse. I called the dealership and they guy says that since the car was bought 'As Is' he can do nothing for me, but try and get me his price on the repair (which i think is complete BS).
I've had a couple people try and tell me a few things that could be causing the problem, like throw out bearing, or maybe the shift fork. i would say that i know a little bit about cars, but i've mainly worked on honda's or other japanese cars so i feel a little lost under the hood of a vw still.
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So ive had the car for a couple months now, daily driver. Fixed a couple minor things here and there. I bought a K&N drop in filter the other day took it for a spin and when i was shifting from 1st to 2nd my second gear seemed empty. nothing. didnt grind or feel rough at all. just didnt have a gear. then i tried 1st and same result. before this my car was running great clutch felt strong and i was having alot of fun with my car. I even tried resetting my linkage and checked the cables inside and by the tranny.
1st and 2nd are gone
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I got a 337 and not sure if the trans is going or not. it shifts all gears but the first 3 are sketchy and sometimes they're hard to get into gear. it feels like I am hitting something in the way when i shift but other times its smooth like butter. I do have some shaft play. never pops out of gear either. could it be the linkage? the shift fork? slave cylinder?
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