Golf/GTI VI :: Grind Noise When Applied Brakes On The Freeway
Dec 4, 2010
So I drove 400 miles today and when I was just about home I heard a grind when I applied the brakes on the freeway. Well I did a walk around the car to check all the pads and noticed my rear pads are almost gone. I'm not used to having the rear brakes implemented in so much of my daily driving, with the TCS and all.
To make it easy I'd like to keep all four corners on the same brake setup, I'm just not sure what is ideal on this car. I know OEM is gonna be said, but I upgraded my front pads to Hawk HPS'.
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Driving my 2008 460L and I get the brake sensor warning. Ok I've been through this before and know I have a little time left, but two days later I get a little grind noise. Then suddenly metal on metal what the hell is that noise! Turns out the passenger side rear lost a pad... it's just gone. The plate is left but the pad is gone on the inside of the rotor. The outside still had about 25% left. The other back wheel still had about 25% left on both pads.
I have 97k on the car and the rotor was turned on the last brake job so I assume I am done with this rotor and order a new one. Now the fun... I pull off the caliper and compress the cylinder on the offending pad first. The way I do this is with a big pair of channel locks I put one jaw on the pad and one on the back of the caliper and squeeze. It works a treat so I pull the offending pad and the dust boot falls to the ground in pieces. Great... now I put the channel locks on the other pad and when I squeeze, it goes in very easily with almost no resistance and the cylinder on the other side(with no boot on it) shoots out along with a bunch of fluid, probably 4-6 oz.
I decide to reassemble everything knowing I now need to bleed the brakes. All of the other wheels are normal and the brake job goes smoothly.
Frustrating part is here... how do you bleed the brakes in this car?!
methods I tried:Gravity - open the bleeder valve and let it drip, the dripping stopped after 20 minutes leaving no fluid in the line or caliper at all.
vacuum - I used the hand pump tool to try and pull fluid thru, got little spits and dribbles at best.
traditional - had my son pump the brakes, he could get a spongy pedal that bottomed out but never a firm pedal and the cylinder remained empty.
pump and suck - aggressive pumping of the pedal with the suction device on the hardline nipple. This resulted in a little fluid coming thru but no where near the amount you'd expect.
Now I have VSC, Brake Malfunction, ABS warning on the computer.
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Our gen 1 has developed a (currently minor) noise issue when braking. I'd like to sort it out before it becomes serious.
The brakes are still strong, and the regenerative system appears to be working. When the brakes are applied (even gently) there is a pulsing raspy sound, seems like it is coming from the front, driver's side. It is more rapid at higher speeds, and louder during rapid deceleration. I guess I'd call it 'grinding', although this is much less unpleasant than the classic 'grinding brakes' I've heard on other cars.
In any other car I would figure a warped rotor or worn out brake pad. But I had imagined that the regenerative system handled light braking, and conventional brakes took over beyond a certain threshold. Now I'm hoping they work in tandem, even on gentle braking and this is just a boring, simple pad issue.
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Does this mean I need to see a mechanic. My car is a 97 buick century, 94kmiles. Rear brakes were replaced at 83k and front brakes were replaced at 80k. A few months ago, the noise began and has persisted once a day when brakes are applied first time of the day.
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Is it just me or is this an ABS thing? during a snow storm i was going about 25mph and had applied the breaks and started making a grinding noise... if it is the abs how are you suppose to work with the response time for a quicker stop.
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Right this clicking noise is really annoying me now, every time AFTER i brake i hear this click, the faster i stop the louder the click is, also when I am in neutral and suddenly rev its clicks sometimes but rarely, I am thinking it could be a loose exhaust somewhere? Its definitely coming from under my foot area. When I brake cornering it clicks too. Checked my control arms and everything, that's not rattling at all? Need to get rid of this click sound!!
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On the r32 there is a rattling noise coming from the right rear wheel. It's a very tinny sound and is definitely a metallic noise. The weird thing is as soon as you his the brake, it goes away. Even if you just lightly press on it, it stops. I took the wheel off, looked around for anything loose and found nothing. It's super loud though and completely embarrassing. My e36 bmw does the same exact thing as well and has done so for years, but its much quieter and not as often. On the mkiv its almost constant and at every speed.
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Coming to a left turn signal I was anticipating it turning red on me, and I drove into the turn lane briskly 30mph and then applied brakes as I made a u-turn. It sounded like a cross between dragging the front air dam and metal on metal brake grinding as I made the turn. Stopped immediately and did not scrap the air dam and all front end components checked out, okay. Car is driving just fine now, has only done this once.
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I have 2008 Hyundai Sonata. I hear some noise from front wheels when i turn to right or left with breaks applied. There is no any noise when turning without break. the cv joint has been replaced but no any result. Still there is noise.
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I have problem with left front brakes corolla. When I changed the router it was fine, but after few month, during down hill when I apply brake, right side make lot of noise. I cleaned pads and pin are good. It happens only on right side, down hill is problem.
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When I gently apply the brakes at slower speeds there is a single "click" noise. This happens every time. I took it to the dealer. They said it was normal. I am just trying to find out if indeed it is. Do other people get this click when they apply the brakes.
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I am new and just picked up a used 2008 Passat yesterday. It has 42k miles and what I had thought in perfect condition. I wanted to see what was going on before I took it into the dealership to get repaired. When driving I hear a constant whine / (like water is on in a house) type noise. Its noticeable all the time except when the brake is fully applied. It comes back once the brake is depressed and in park. I thought at first maybe it was just a brake pad rubbing but the constant noise in Park confirms its something else.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Echo. About 6 months ago it starting making a knocking noise when I applied the brakes. I thought it was my differential (it isn't) because it is a used transmission. That's not it. My mechanics were stumped, of course it never seems to make the noise when they have my car. They also checked the rotors, and I maintain my brakes.They replaced a wheel bearing on the left front wheel, the noise stopped for two weeks then started up again. Only when I use the brakes do I hear it, and I hear it more often than not.
There also seems to be a bit of a creaking noise with it. It does it more in stop and go traffic, and the car usually has to be a little warm before it gets noisy. They ended up replacing a rear drum thinking the noise transferred to the front, didn't work. What could this be? it's pretty loud and disconcerting when I'm driving. It only happens when I use the brake (more so slower speeds) so what is left besides the wheel and the brakes? My mechanic said the noise stopped when they replaced the wheel bearing because they took the wheels off, and that somehow fixed it temporarily.
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Guys, my 2005 V8 is giving me the annoying sign (making a squeal noise while driving that actually goes away when I apply the brakes) that my pads are wearing out. "Just brakes" quote me $89 to change the pads. That sounds too good to be true.
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I noticed yesterday a sound, like a grinding sound, *sometimes* as I apply the brakes to stop. I'm at 68k. The noise only happens when the brakes are applied so I suspect there is an issue with my brakes again.
Some BACKGROUND info: At around 60k (or 8 months ago roughly), the front pads were replaced after the brakes were squealing and a pulsating brake pedal when stopping. The pads were replaced by a dealer. In addition, both front/rear rotors were turned at the same time. Rear pads had 40% at the time and were not replaced.
Some weeks later the pulsation came back and I went back again and they machined them again. For this current issue I was thinking about taking the car to someplace local (not a dealer) and getting a free brake evaluation of what is going on.
I'm also concerned that all this machining the dealer did to eliminate the pulsation may have decreased the life of the rotors and perhaps they need replacement now.
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So I have a 2003 Passat wagon. While driving down the road with no brake pressure applied the front right brake makes a squealing noise. As if the caliper doesn't release pressure....what should I do? Any hints?
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I have a 2008 Chevy Malibu. Lately when the engine is cold I will get to the end of the street and when I apply the brakes the car will make a clunking noise and a couple of times it has actually died and I have to restart the car. I only experience this the first thing in the morning, after that the car seems fine. I cannot tell if it is the brakes causing the problem or the transmission.
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I have started hearing a noise with my brakes. First thing in the morning when I back up and apply the brakes, I get a clunk or pop noise from the left front wheel. It will pop again once I move forward and hit the brakes. It only does the noise one time when I first apply the brakes in either direction. Once the brakes have been used out on the road and are warm, there is no noise when changing directions. I've had this noise in another car I used to have and it was caused by the aftermarket brake pads not being exactly large enough and there was slight pad shifting in the caliper. Being this is a new car and has the OEM pads, I would hope there would be no pad shifting or movement in the calipers.
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1950 cadillac - standard drums on all 4 corners.
I put new wheel cylinders on each drum, and replaced the drivers front hose, as it was clogged. The passenger side I left because it works and doesnt leak. I've cleaned all the brake surfaces, shoes and drums, and bled everything.
When I brake, and only when I brake, the front right makes a grinding noise and the car pulls to the right.
I tried tightening the star wheel today to bring the shoes inward in hopes that would equalize brake pressure up front, but when trying again today, I got that grinding sound still.
There is no scoring or gouges on the shoes, drum, and the inner and outer ball bearings seem fine - round chrome balls with no discoloration, no gouges on the spindles. Granted I don't drive this far at all, especially now that I have this grinding.
How can I really tell if its the ball bearings? It only makes the grind when I am on the brakes.
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I have a 2007 Ford F-250 6.0L that's making a vibration noise when I come to a stoplight with my foot on the brake, just idling. I just recently replaced the front brake pads this past weekend. I looked under the hood and visually checked for any obvious things that could be making the noise and did not find any, I did notice my power steering pump is damp with fluid. Now this noise only occurs when my foot is on the brake, anytime my foot is off the brake, it goes away.
I checked brake fluid level and power steering pump fluid level, both are fine except power steering fluid looks like chocolate milk. I don't know if the power steering pump would be the cause of this, but I'm going to replace it because it's leaking and I'm guessing the fluid for the power steering is way overdue. I've only owned this truck since March of this year and it has 128,000 miles on it. Hopefully this video link to youtube works, the sound in the video is the same noise that I'm hearing from the truck. Where this noise is coming from.
Vibration noise powerstroke - YouTube....
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I've been working on my car for a few weeks now and I've been doing my best to figure out. The source of this sort of 'metallic grinding' that I'm hearing within the cabin. I cant seem to pinpoint where it's coming from within the engine bay with the hood open (maybe due to the magnaflow exhaust diffusing the sound from the outside of my car). I can easily hear noise when I'm inside however with indications its coming from the lower central area of the engine bay. I drive an '04 Volkwagen GTI 1.8T
In the days I've been working on it I've replaced the:
1. Timing Belt (and tensioner pulley/tensioner dampener)
2. Water Pump
3. Serpentine Belt
4. Thermostat (and housing)
5. Clutch disk and flywheel (from a SMF to a LUK DMF clutch)
6. CV Axles (both drivers and passengers)
7. Clutch Cylinder Slave
8. Wheel Bearings (front left and right)
9. Rotors (Front Left and Right)
Diagnosis**
The car starts without any problems just as it use to prior to the replacements done. BUT it's once I get the car moving where I begin accelerating I start to hear a dull grinding noise/rumble that becomes more and more apparent the faster I go. It seems the sound is directly correspondent to wheel movement upon accelerating. Nevertheless I could be wrong.
I had a friend tag along to diagnose the sound and to him it sounded similar to the "tunneling of air not being properly sealed" but to me it sounds like a metallic grind. My friend also mentioned that he felt it was louder towards the passenger side in contrast to the drivers. As mentioned before the sound is reproduced anytime wheel movement occurs. I've checked torque spec for every replacement job done to the car so there are no loose bolts/nuts/brackets. (but there are exceptions, which I will get to).
Knowing that I've replaced both of the wheel bearings (and hub assembly) I can only assume the sources isn't from there. But I do admit a few mistakes while I had the car on jacks.
1. During the timing belt replacement I thought I would need to remove the exhaust (because I felt it would interfere with the lowering of the engine) so I, (without success), tried to remove the connection between the "bend of the exhaust" to the manifold which were 4 'turbo studs'. I had the worst time with the removal of studs but I was able to impact one them off, and as I tried another the strength of the impact broke one them half way through (meaning that I was able to unthread it a few threads but it snapped in the process, so I would need to somehow drill it out in order to replace it). This is where I gave up and did my best to install the one I had removed. Which I could only get threaded half of the way in.
-All in all I have 1 broken stud that still making a connection, and 1 protruding stud out of the 4 that connects the exhaust to the manifold.
Question: Can this be the cause of the sound? Without the full connection of 4 studs bolting exhaust to the manifold? Can this be the sound That my friend was referring to as the "tunneling air not being properly sealed"?
2. The second "mistake" isn't necessarily a mistake but a fault I found later that has to do with the Passenger CV Axle. I read a few forums here and read that it could be a problem with the axles, so I put the front end on jacks once again and found that there was a bit of movement of play on the axle shaft itself. In detail, the 2 connection points for the axle both at the Output differential flange and Hub assembly are secure and torqued to spec without any loose bolts.
BUT the rod itself seems to shift about a 1/2" between these two connecting points.
Question: Could THIS be the problem? With this type of 1/2" shift in the rod is it possible it can recreate the dull metallic grinding I'm hearing so much?
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