2012 gti, completely stock, 21,000 miles. Perfectly smooth ride right up to 69mph, then mild/moderate vibration in the steering wheel at 70+mph... figured it was an out of balance wheel up front, had the tires rotated, but still vibrates. I suppose ALL the wheels could be out of balance, but seems unlikely?? Will have the balance checked on all wheels...
View 18 RepliesI'm new to Lexus ownership and have recently purchased an 08 certified LS 460 L with the air ride suspension. It's a phenomenal car, I'm now a convert to the brand. One small thing I noticed though is a slight jiggle or vibration coming to the steering wheel at moderate speeds. It is very dependent on the road surface, Seems to dissipate on the highway. Alignment was checked before delivery and feels fine and the tires themselves feel balanced. It's not upsetting, I'm just curious if this is something normal to the air ride suspension. Other than this the car is an absolute gem with only 35,000 miles.
View 4 RepliesCar: 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T
The car is starting to produce a heavy shake in the steering wheel when above 45mph up through highway speeds. The kicker is that the shake only occurs on-center, because turning the wheel just a few degrees off creates a relatively smooth result.
Checked the wheels for balance, tire wear [which is good, no cupping], lower control arm (LCA) bushings, and complete a lock-to-lock steering test on the ground to confirm steering rack mounting bolts are tight. What's the next pieces of hardware I'm needing to verify?
I've got a 2006 Camry (4cyl) with 136K miles. Yesterday, I noticed a mild shimmy in the steering wheel around 35 mph. If I take my hands off the wheel it shimmies back and forth about 1/4 inch or so. I pulled over and checked my tires, but didn't find any obvious defects. The shimmy goes away at higher speeds, and drives fine at freeway speed.
I am somewhat certain that I need new struts pretty soon because there is some slight inside cupping on the front tires.
I've a little over 60k on my '12 Golf TDI and I think it's time to replace the brake rotors and pads (a lot of vibration and pulsing under moderate to heavy braking). I'm looking to replace front and rear rotors at the same time, but have a question about the rear rotor size:
Websites like Tirerack & Partsgeek give several options for the rear rotors - 256mm, 260mm and 272mm.
I'm having the same issue that I had on my previous Mkv car. Around 55-80mph the steering wheel will wobble back and forth at about a quarter of an inch very quickly. It's an identical shake to my last Mkv. I had the wheels balanced and checked for bends and the car aligned. Didn't work. Went to various shops spent too much on balancing. One shop showed me that one of my tires was slightly out of round. So I bought 4 new tires and had them road forced shop said everything was great. Hopped on the freeway and the same wobble was still there. Car is at 52k miles and I've been battling this problem for about 5k miles now.
I've had the entire car checked. One tech told me that the axels could have gone bad so it is going in under warranty to get new axels on Tuesday, then going back in for an alignment. My last Mkv had the same issue around the same mileage and I spent so much on trying to figure it out I eventually got sick of it and traded it in on this GTI. My girl friend just bought an 09 Jetta and it seems to be having early signs of the same vibration. I'm starting to think its an issue with the generation. My mk3 with 200k miles drives smoother than this thing. I love the car but me driving on the freeway so often really kills the enjoyment.
I have 19 inch TSW wheels on my mk6 and since day one it's had a vibration in the steering wheel (5k miles). It happens from 60-70 mph. These wheels were brought over from my 07 GLI, and they never had an issue on that Dub. I just did a wheel balance today thinking it would fix the issue (it didn't), and all the wheel weights are on the wheels as well. I'm dumbfounded as to what it could be. When they did the balance today, they checked for bends in the wheels and bumps on the tires. They said everything was fine. What may be causing this vibration?
View 18 RepliesSo I just had the 10k service done on my GTI and after I got it back everything seemed fine. That is, until under moderate acceleration there was a weird buzz or vibration that came on around 2800-3400rpm coming from what I think is the engine bay or near the firewall on the passenger side. I was able to repeat the issue multiple times and it showed up every time. However, with the car at a stop and in neutral and revving it I can't make the problem occur only when under load, in gear, and traveling at speed. If I could describe it, it sounds like a playing card against bicycle spokes (for those of us who did that when we were kids)..
Anyways, I drove it straight back to the dealer and at that point had closed their service shop but they did do the right thing and give me a loaner car until they can look at it on Monday. How the heck could this pop up after a 10k service? What all do they do besides oil change, tire rotation, and fluid inspection?
I did pop the hood and one of the side of the fuel rail sounded louder than the other, I suspected that maybe one injector is starting to go and it seemed like an isolated noise but perhaps its not an injector at all. Nonetheless it seems this is a non-related issue..
Been really busy lately and havent worked on car. Any way it's been about two months after lowering on hpa shs coils. Rides great but I have had the two following observations.
1. When I'm on the freeway at above 65 a big increase in vibration mostly in the steering wheel. I also rotated tires front to back as they are directional at the same time.
2. When I first set off there is a clunking/adjusting sound from the front right side. It seems to be connected with the rotation of the tire. Goes away as I drive down the block.
So I just developed a slight vibration in the steering wheel and the floor last week. It happens when I drive with my foot barely on the gas or coasting. If I punch it, the vibration goes away. Also, if I punch it from a stop and take my foot off the pedal I can hear a knock as the car lurches starting to decelerate and its only one knock. I thought it might be the driver side strut bushing because I recently replaced the passenger side but not the driver. So today I replaced the driver but that did not solve the problem. I have fairly new tires all around. I am not sure if it is tie rods or cv joints. All my boots on the cvs look good. What to check. Oh maybe also motor/trans mounts???
View 5 RepliesHit a MASSIVE pothole this PM at about 80mph... Car felt 'different' almost immediately. A subtle vibration coming from the steering wheel... which could also be felt on the dash, but ever so slightly. As if something was 'out of round'- OR is I had a bad bearing.
Pulled over at a gas station, but I saw nothing wrong with the tire or wheel. Was very surprised by this as I thought for sure I had a bet wheel or a bubbled tire. Only thing loose was the center cap.
Making an appointment this week at a dealer to check things out. Hoping it is just the bent wheel, busted tire, or wheel alignment issue... but thinking its more than that possibly.
What should I be asking the dealer to check for me? Control arm, drive shaft, strut, bearings... anything else?? I would hate to get the car back with the same vibration, and have them tell me 'all is Ok, we see nothing wrong'.
I have a stunning r32 2004 with an hpa ft450 turbo fitted,(also porsche cayenne discs , calipers , adj suspension , milltek high flow cat , strut brace front and rear, seat splitter, ) all receipts and work carried out bought car like this. On cold it runs good and boost is good , but as soon as its warm (about 4 mins ) in 3rd 4th 5th 6th gear when the boost kicks in I get a biggish vibration through acc pedal and steering wheel, but nothing untoward before boost apart from a slight misfire on idle, the car is running rich and using plenty fuel, the turbo was fitted at 18k and now done 23k, so its very low milage.
I have fitted 3 coil packs, new plugs (old ones were black), I have been told, that the car goes through o2 sensors for fun, just cant understand why, i have no lights coming on , and going for vagcom diagnostic in the morning.
When I accelerate at 70+, I get a very noticeable vibration that is felt into the steering wheel and throughout the cabin. I have 14,000 miles on the car, so I seriously doubt that it's the CV joint. Could it be possible that I lost some wheel weights, and it's become imbalanced?
View 2 RepliesSo sometimes (only sometimes, of course) when I step on the brakes, I get a slight vibration of the steering wheel. Doesn't seem to make a difference if it's gentle or not-so-gentle braking. Brakes cold or warm doesn't make a difference either. Nor does traveling in a straight line or not at that moment.
My understanding is that "warped" brake rotors are mostly a myth these days, especially for our beefy/hefty rotors. The car did not used to do this.
Rotors are "OEM slotted" from ECS, pads are Porterfield R4-S. All are well within tolerances. I know it's not an out-of-balance wheel, because wheels were swapped front to back not too long ago and there was no change.
So what else ought I check out? Tie rods/ends? Ball joints? I don't know all that much about this aspect of stuff..
Tried to do some searching regarding this and info was pretty thin. When I'm up at highway speeds there is an obnoxious howl transmitting through the steering wheel. On occasion it will go away but it's generally there. There is some vibration coming through and it's driving me absolutely nuts - it almost makes the car feel overweight and sluggish, but that may just be in my head.
I had 4 new tires put on and an alignment done around 3 weeks ago, so it shouldn't be related to that. I was told that my right rear Aristo has a slight bend in it, but would that cause such a harsh reaction? I was thinking wheel bearings but I really don't know how to check for that.
Took delivery of my 2015 GTI a few weeks ago. Overall the car is great, but I have a feeling the tires that came with it just plain suck. They are Pirelli P7 Cinturato A/S. According to Tire Rack, these are grand touring tires?! Not exactly what I'd expect to be put on a GTI. Anyway, I've noticed that at almost exactly between 60mph-70mph there is a "whine" sound coming from them, also just the slightest vibration in the steering wheel. At every other speed they are relatively quiet and the wheel is absolutely dead solid, no vibration. Could these tires just be of relatively poor quality? Should I have them put on a balancing machine to see if everything checks out? I'm assuming these were balanced on a Road Force machine at the factory since that is the OEM for VW/Audi, but I'm not 100% sure obviously.
View 16 RepliesBut I have noticed over the past week of driving, whenever the RPMs are around 1000-2000, it is very hard for me to pick up speed, and I can feel a little bit of a rumble/vibration through the steering wheel. So...
If I feather the gas, the RPM increases slightly and you can hear/feel the engine rumble/vibrate. The speed doesn't really increase...
If I hit the gas more than 1/2 way down, turbo kicks in and the car shoots forward.
Is this normal? I find it very hard to add a little bit of acceleration if I feather it, the engine seems to be resisting it, if I hit it any harder, the turbo kicks in around 2500 RPMs. It almost feels as if it is in too high of a gear and the engine has a hard time accelerating a little bit...This is around ~40-60KM/hr
OK so I'm driving a 2000 Toyota Camry. For the last few months it's been making a noise, kind of like a knocking/helicopter type noise, increasing with speed, and it's coming from the passenger side. Not sure if it's the front or the back. The Walmart tire guy said I needed an alignment in front.
At moderate speeds (30-40 mph), you can still hear it, barely. At highway speeds, it's really noticeable. It's really loud around 60 MPH with some mild vibration felt on the dash and in the seat, but interestingly enough, it's less noticeable at 70 MPH. Going around curves, it gets louder/more intense with curves to the left, and gets softer (or goes away) with curves to the right.
So, I posted this on Facebook, and a couple of people replied thinking it's a wheel bearing, most notably the front right. So, I jacked the car up and tried wiggling all 4 tires (like it says to do to check for this), but none of the tires wiggle.
To save money at the shop, what I want to do is buy the bearing or hub assembly if needed, and take it to the shop to have them put it on. Before I buy a part I don't need, I want to be sure. Does this sound like a wheel bearing issue?
I don't hear any humming, and the noise/vibration is unaffected by braking.
I have a 2008 elantra. It has 71600 miles on it. New brakes, & tires. 2 tires were changed year and 2 more the previous year. I have been hearing a constant sound and starting to feel a mild vibration on the pedal. First I went to a mechanic and he said I need to change the belts. Got that done, no respite. Next went to another, he said i probably need to get the wheel alignment done as the tires seem 'cupped' on the inside.
Went to the dealership, they looked at it said the same abt needing wheel alignment and asked me to change the timing belt!. Still same sound. Went to Sams club to look at the tires & they said check the brakes, tires are fine, it cannot wear out so soon and its not covered under warranty. Brakes got checked out as fine. Went back to Sams again and was told to check Suspension and Struts this time. Went to a mechanic and he gave me an all clear this morning! I am going on a road trip and don't want to be in an accident!
2011 SF. 52000kms.
A little while ago I noticed a brief vibration (felt through floor and steering) with normal acceleration from stand still... I attrributed this to the cold weather and perhaps oil thickening, as the problem went away after the car was warmed up. Since then I have noticed that it's continually happening on a regular basis, but only for a short period.. I was still thinking that it was the cold, but that wasn't the case because I left the car idle at start up for 20 minutes until well warm.
Now.. If I slowly accelerate (not putting much load on the car) there is no vibration at all. When the car reaches a certain speed, the vibration goes away. There is also no vibration after about 15 minutes of driving.
I had a neighbor test it with me to confirm and he felt it, and initially thought differential oil, but then suggested myriad other things from the CV boot to bearings to etc etc.
I need to take it to the dealership so they can experience the vibration but would certainly need to leave it there over night so they can check it out when "cold".
Vehicle is a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer with 123,000 miles. During moderate to hard acceleration in a straight line, especially in gears 1 to 3, the front of the car vibrates. The harder I accelerate, the worse the vibration gets. Once I get into 4th gear and get up to 40 MPH, I can put the pedal to the floor and while it will do it, it is very slight. Check engine light is off.
Interestingly, on the way to work there is a 25 MPH cloverleaf and coming out of the cloverleaf onto the highway, it did not do it until the wheels were pointed straight ahead.
Deceleration, even when aggressively downshifting, is vibration-free.
I do not believe it is ignition related - the car idles fine, has plenty of power under hard acceleration, and doesn't do it when going around that cloverleaf. (As a side note, about a year ago a plug wire went bad, leaving one cylinder with no spark. In this case the engine vibrated violently, but was obviously down on power.)
There are no strange noises in the front end. No clicking around corners typical with a failing constant velocity joint, and no mechanical thuds or sqweaks over bumps I'd expect from a failing ball joint or bushing.
I am having some unusual tire wear on the outside edges of the tires, like you would see with under-inflation, but tire pressure is fine. In my mind, this points to bad ball joints.
It still has the original constant velocity joints and axles as well as the original ball joints. The one motor mount I can see looks okay. I'm thinking in order of liklihood (most likely to least likely):
1) bad axle
2) bad ball joints
3) bad motor mount
Anything else I need to check? Wheel bearings? If I do replace the axles, I will replace the front wheel bearings while I'm in there.