Know it's fairly common for AC air to smell moldy, due to moisture on the evaporator. What brand of disinfectant spray Volkswagen uses to spray into the cowl vents? I've heard that some manufacturers use Ultra Shield, and some sites say Lysol spray is okay, too. Just wondered if VW uses something else.
View 5 RepliesMy AC is not working. I just tried to put in some freon and it did nothing for me. Hopefully this doesn't make matters worse, I'm finding that it may have..
From what I can tell everything is working fine except the pipes at the firewall that go to the evaporator stay warm and don't cool at all after ten minutes.
The clutch is engaging when the AC button is pressed and stays on fine.
I found this thread : [URL] .....
about the blend door, that could be it haven't checked yet but does it suggest that the condenser isn't working since the pipes don't get cold?
So I have noticed this issue where whenever I put a window down and then roll it back up, there will be smears of moisture all over the outside of the window. It does it on both front windows, don't often put the back ones down so I don't know if it affects those.
What this suggests is that the seal/pad that runs against the outside of the window is retaining some moisture in it and deposits it on the window as it slides past.
What I am concerned about is the possibility of there being excess moisture on the inside of the door. Has not happened in several days as the cold weather has kept the moisture low and/or frozen.
I get it every now and then in the mornings. Now I know I can just turn on my headlights and it goes away. But it's a brand new car.
I have xenons. Just wanted to see of this is common or not. Dealers solution was just that. Turn headlights on.
I have had my '16 4 dr S for about a month now, and have had only one issue, well two if you count the fact that my LG G4 will not connect to AndroidAuto. Even when it is dry out and hasn't rained for days, both sides of my windows will be wet after rolling them down and back up. It is almost like the rubber seals act like sponges and coat the windows with water as the window passes through. It is not enough moisture to drip down the windows or cause a musty smell or anything, but it is aggravating.
View 10 RepliesThis is the first winter with my LED tails installed, and notice that I get varying amounts of moisture on the inside of each corner light lens. It makes me a bit worried that this will eventually cause a short or destroy a light in my not-so-cheap tails.
It comes and goes based on relative humidity, temp, and precipitation - but isn't necessarily worse when raining. It's almost like the larger the delta between a higher cabin temp and colder outside temp on a "humid" day generates the most moisture.
I have checked the "bulb access" on each corner and the weatherstripping is intact and appears to make solid contact when tightened down.
I was considering getting a keyless start to preclude the considerable stinky smoke that occurs upon start up in the winter mornings. But it does this in the summer mornings too? How do you know if a keyless start would prevent this from happening?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Nissan Murano. When I first get into my car after it is sitting the smell of garbage is overwhelming! Once I start to drive it, the smell begins to disappear. The longer the car is sitting turned off the stronger the smell when I get into it. We have searched the vehicle inside and out for signs of food, although the car is extremely clean. We have also searched for reminants of a dead animal as well as moisture but have found nothing. Where to look next?
View 6 RepliesI suspect there are very stinky mushrooms growing in the debris inside the ventilation system. We live in Florida and the van sits outside in an area in our yard where stinky mushrooms grow at certain times of the year. I have tried spraying Lysol in the outside vent with the fan on full. That seems to have worked over time but can I dump some vinegar in there without harming anything?
View 1 RepliesLike the title states my 04 egg has a sour smell when i first turn on the a/c. could this be mildew if so from where, are there fresh air filters in these? i already am not overly fond of this vehicle.
View 3 RepliesHaving issues with a stinky steering wheel? sometimes, i notice a unpleasant smell from it, especially when the car has been in the sun. when it's cold enough, it doesn't seem to smell at all. i know this is due to buildup of oils and whatnot from my hands.
I occasionally clean the wheel with baby wipes. that just minimizes the smell. And yes, I do wash my hands several times a day. I don't think i have particularly sweaty palms. I drive and '05 with no accessories on the steering wheel.
My husband drives a 97 Toyota Corolla. Great little car with one problem, it stinks. It smells like gasoline after its started. I never smell it from inside the car, just after its run when I exit the car. Took to a mechanic.... they couldn't find a leak and of course they didn't smell anything. He told me the LEFT OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL needs to be replaced but wasn't very positive that had anything to do with the gasoline smell. He only suggested replacing the gas cap, again, not with much confidence. Should I take it back, take somewhere else, anyway of narrowing down the possible leak areas myself or other suggested areas for them to look for the leak???
View 10 RepliesWe recently took our 2001 VW Jetta TDI in to a body shop to have a dent in our fender repaired that occurred the day after. The body shop we selected quoted us 5 days to repair the dent. Little did we know they'd also drop a toxic chemical bomb on the car's leather and vinyl interior as a courtesy.
When I picked the vehicle up I was greeted by the manager who told me the four-month-old, battery recently installed by one of Michigan's two trusted TDI specialists was dead (it wasn't). He told me I should just head over to the VW dealer to get it looked at (he said there had been an issue with the battery since I dropped it off a week earlier... when I questioned why he was just now telling me about this issue, he said he "just found out about it." Needless to say we got off on the wrong foot. I then noticed there were scuffs all along the bumper from the wax not being rubbed in properly and the red paint they'd sprayed on the repaired (and poorly reassembled) fender has also sprayed onto the black plastic below the bumper. But none of this matters compared to the significant loss of brain cells due to the chemical odor that my husband and I, as grad students, simply could not afford to lose.
As I was driving the vehicle the two miles back home, I noticed a strong smell that was not your typical "new/clean car" smell. While I got a little light headed, I didn't think much of it. Until the next day, after the car had been sitting in the sun, when I got in the vehicle to go grocery shopping and I noticed our beautiful, shiny black leather and vinyl had a white-ish residue that had dripped, smudged, smeared dried and crusted all over it. Further, I couldn't drive the car without the windows completely open without my eyes burning and throat getting sore and a severe headache.
I asked my husband to call the manager (he and I were already not on good terms). After convincing the manager the smell was definitely not from bike grease, the manager conceded that "MAYBE his new cleaning crew had used the wrong chemical when wiping down the interior of the car." Because the vinyl is now sticky and tacky, we were pretty sure it was a pretty strong solvent. The manager agreed to "go above and beyond and clean the car" himself - which he did attempt to do - and when I picked it up he did show me the solvent he thinks his cleaning crew used. Unfortunately, while much of the staining is now reduced, the smell is still very strong and is not only in the cabin but also very strongly permeated throughout the trunk.
It's been about a month and we've tried scattering baking soda throughout the trunk to no avail; I'm about to go to an auto parts store and see if there's anything else we can get to clean it out.
First some background. The vehicle is a 2003 Expedition with rear AC. The 5.4L engine has been replaced with a 4BT Cummins (DD since 2010), but the AC system is not altered-- other than the compressor being mounted to a different engine. The intercooler is in front of the condenser, which hurts efficiency of the AC system, but it seems to work fine in our climate.
My AC system quit cooling one day, and the problem was a hole in one of the low-side tubes from rubbing on the turbo-to-intercooler tube. I repaired this by aluminum brazing. The system held 120 psi on nitrogen for one hour. So I pumped it down overnight to 27 inches of Hg and made an appointment with the AC shop to get it recharged. I could not get an appointment for several weeks, so I continued to drive it with no AC, thinking it should be no problem since there is no pressure in the system.
I was on a road trip when all of a sudden, there was a huge stinky cloud of blue smoke billowing out from behind the truck. I pulled over and the AC clutch and pulley was smoking hot. I shut it down and cooled it off slowly with squirts from a water bottle.
So my clutch is shot but I'm not sure what caused it to fry. Is there a typical mechanical failure where the friction material can be chewed up by the pulley-hub? Or is it possible that somehow the controller commanded the clutch to engage without pressure in the system?
I think it would be prudent to replace the compressor, since there may be some bearing or housing damage from the clutch failure, so that is in the plan. I have read that when ever the system is open, the drier should be changed too. I want to do this right rather than do it again on another day.
One concern I have is that if when the clutch was failing and it managed to turn the compressor-- could there be pieces of compressor in the tube runs that I need to clean out? Other than a visual inspection of the open tube ends, is there another test or things to look for?
Basically my AC isn't cooling as much as it should..is it necessary when replacing the compressor to also replace the "dryer" and the other component which escapes me at the time...I think it's the "evaporator"
View 2 RepliesMighty afraid evaporator is leaking. Is it a much difficult to replace as all other vehicles? Does dash have to come out to fix?
View 3 RepliesI have a 01 classic for 1yr My 01 looks new at 154000 miles lots of parts replaced before purchased and after I replaced 12 volt and inverter pump. Looks like evaporator core leak.
View 10 RepliesI have a 06 expedition limited and have been having a ac problem for some while now.. Around town both front and rear ac work and blow cold air just fine. While on the hwy 20-30 miles on road outside temp 90+,ac starts to fade, on high you can barely feel it coming out of the vents but it's still loud... Evaporator is freezing up..after a hour plus of hwy driving the rear will slowly fade away also..I can turn off the ac off and around 5 minutes turn it back on and the ac will work good for around 15 or so minutes before fading away again. Had the ac checked out,no leaks,not low on freon. Suggested the front expansion valve be changed..tried that and still same problem..temp monitored from the vent gets as low as 28-30 degree F before fading away?
View 10 RepliesI'm putting a new evaporator into my '87 F250. The manuals I have give conflicting numbers on how much oil I should add to the system. How much oil is needed in this replacement? Also, do I add the oil to the accumulator or pour it into the new evaporator?
View 3 RepliesSo here's the deal...my '99 Sub has developed the problem of the A/C running too cold and freezing up the evaporator.The specs call for the clutch cycle switch to shut off the compressor at 25 lbs-low side, and turn it back on at 45 lbs. With a static pressure of 120 lbs, ambient air temp of 85 degrees, engine idle 1200 RPM: when the system is turned on the compressor activates and the low side pressure stabilizes at around 30-34 lbs...the high side sits at around 180-200 lbs...fan on high, max setting on temp control, the middle-front register reads 28-36 degrees.
This is great for awhile until the evap freezes up and airflow is restricted. The lowside pressure will not drop down to 25 lbs to activate the switch to shut off the compressor. I even installed a new pressure cycle switch to no avail since the pressure will not drop enough to activate it anyway. So every half hour or so, I have to manually shut off the compressor at the control panel for about 5 minutes, and then start the process over again. The rear unit is controlled by the TXV and continues to function just fine (rear register temp 36-40 degrees).
I just took my 2005 Camry to get smogged and it failed. The reading said that my evaporator and my catalytic converter failed. I reset and drove her for almost 200 miles to get the reading settled, but that did not work. I checked all my fuses and the smog-guy and I have no clue what the issue could be. I don't think that the catalytic converter needs replacing since she only has 60,000 miles on her, but what could be the problem that it keeps saying 'fail'.
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