Golf/GTI VII :: Random Sputter / Misfire?
Nov 9, 2015
My car sits with 45,000 kms on the clock. Had it stock for the first 5k kms and then went stage 1 w/dp and intake. Have been beating the ever living piss out of this car since, and more so since stage 2 got revised again. At about 30k kms I started to develop a random sputter/misfire that was only really noticeable at idle, more so with a mount insert installed. Approaching my winter tire changeover and oil change I had planned to do this past weekend I ordered some maintenance stuff from ECS (filters, spark plugs, spare coil just in case). I had recently got a CEL with a "cylinder 2 misfire" code. I cleared it and it came back within a couple of days, again cylinder 2. Great, nice and easy..Sorta.
Picked up my parcel from the WA post office and installed the coil right there to see if it would go away. And...... NOT. Not worried at this point as I figured the plugs were just toast from so much hard driving for the past 40k kms. Got her into the shop last night and did my tire changeover, oil change, put the factory coil back in and changed the plugs. Here is what I found hiding in cylinder #2,
The car runs so smooth. It's like I found another 10hp lol. Definitely recommend changing up the plugs if tuned and putting kms or miles on the car. With the added power I'm guessing the life span drops off quickly.
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So, my check engine light has been on for months. I knew that I needed a new oxygen sensor (block 1-pre-cat), so I replaced it today after the car began to sputter and misfire. Well, I thought that would fix the problem, but it hasn't. Some of the hesitation is gone, but the sputtering is still very bad. I'm going to replace the spark plugs tomorrow and see if that works. I was also told to clean out the catalytic converter, but I don't know how to take it off. It wouldn't hurt to just bang out all the debris. Any DIY on taking off a catalytic converter for a 2000 VW Golf GTI 1.8T?
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2000 GTI GLS 2.0L ... I understand I need to replace the Ignition Coil Pack on my car. I have looked on ECS Tuning to find the coil pack, but from all the pictures I see of other people coil packs they look nothing like what mine do. So I'm wondering if they are different for my specific car? So the issue that I have is my engine sputters sometimes, but more so when is wet outside. Its only cylinder 2 misfiring currently, and I replaced my Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump already in the past 4 or 5 months. Also a local shop had done some work recently and I know they had replaced the spark plugs. So I'm just wondering what coil packs I need for my car, and how I would go about replacing them. From what I saw online with other 2.0L (They weren't GTIs tho) was that the coild pack was behind the SIA pump or something like that, and they are a small black box. It looks to me that my coil packs are inline above the spark plugs and cylinders?
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I have a 01 wolfsburg jetta with aw engine code .. I have replaced and gaped spark plugs all 4 coils , DV. As well as fuel filter . Sometimes it runs fine . It misfire at random times most often at WOT. ..and I've noticed almost always when fuel level is low.. installed a boost gauge .. after disconnecting battery to reset ecu it boosts 10psi and runs strong .. however 1 or 2 WOT and it will misfire and then I won't boost over 4-5 PSI .. worst of all I get no CEL not even blinking .. I have also located a leak in the brake booster line . Does this affect it at all? ..
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Replaced my water pump March 2nd using the "From Below" method. Started the car after and the check engine light was on and water pump was no longer leaking. I drove the GTI to Advance (15 Mins away) it drove fine and I pulled two codes.
P0300 - Random Multiple/Cylinder Misfire
P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire
The car pulled and drove normally. The next day the car is misfiring badly. Hesitation and bucks when accelerating until roughly 3k then smooths out.
I will swap my coilpacks and check if the misfire moves as soon as I can get my hands on an OBD2 Scan Tool.
From what I understand about the VR6 :
-The water pump runs off the serpentine belt
-Camshaft timing is controlled by the timing chain.
-Timing chain is not affected by the serpentine belt/pulleys.
Questions :
-Can turning the Crankshaft Pulley affect timing?
-Can that be the cause of the misfire?
24V VR6
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Well first the exact car I have. 99.5 Jetta 2.0 AEG. It all started with one loud backfire with a stall at a stop light while in neutral. After that it was random stalling and jerking while driving. So I checked my everything and all seemed well. I replaced spark plugs because they where fouled and nasty. Cables are good. They're near new and tested them with a multimeter. Next I checked my injectors and they are surprisingly very clean.
I had also ran seafoam prior to these problems a few weeks before it all started. Next step was new fuel filter. Old one was nasty and black stuff dripped out. That didn't work. So I checked for vacuum leaks with throttle body cleaner. Nothing. Visually threre is nothing wrong under the hood. So today I changed the fuel pump. Went for a test drive all seemed well. Can out of the bank. Then it won't start. So I wait like normally. And it normally gets me home. Nothing. Will sometimes start but if I'm not holding the gas it dies. I don't know what to do. My only other thing I can think of is the coil pack.
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About a month ago my wife's 2000 Jetta with the VR6 engine in it started acting up and throwing codes. The codes it threw were for random misfire, misfire in cylinder 2, and misfire in cylinder 5. Starting out, we changed spark plugs, fuel filter, and made sure the injectors were clean.
The problem didn't go away so we water tested the coil and wires, but they passed that test. The wires were quite old and out of spec, while the coil was in-spec across all terminals, according to the vehicle service manual, so we installed some new OEM leads this weekend. While installing the leads we noticed a disconnected vacuum line and reconnected that as well.
The vehicle was driving great for two and a half days, then today while I was sitting at a stop light, it started missing really badly and felt like it was going to kill. It did this for about 5 seconds, then recovered and ran smooth for about 5 seconds, before getting really rough until I started driving when the light changed. It didn't do it when I drove it a few hours later at all. This episode didn't throw any codes either.
What could be causing this issue? Would the MAF cause the intermittent missing, or is it possible that the computer is going bad?
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I was running in a track day at Sebring today and missed a shift. Rookie move...the car eventually went into limp mode. I took the car back to the pits and scanned the codes. Limp mode was confirmed in addition to a cylinder 4 misfire and a random/intermittent misfire. Cleared the codes and went back out; couldn't even finish the lap before the car was thrown back into limp mode.
I was able to hobble home by keeping the car out of boost and started trouble shooting. So far I have ruled out spark plugs and coils. Should I be looking at the injector next? Any chance I bent a valve? The misfire can be triggered by putting the car under a load and bringing it up to 5,000 RPMs or higher.
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I have a 1999.5 Jetta VR6 12v, last week the car would not start. After some tests I determined the coil pack had gone bad. Replaced the Coil with a brand New aftermarket German made coil. Now 1 week later, driving at highway speed CEL came on, started to flash and obviously misfiring again. Ran Codes and now im getting these DTC's:
1)random multiple cylinder misfire detected p0300
2) cylinder 4 misfire detected p0304
3) ignition coil output 3 electric malfunction p1395
4) cylinder 3 misfire detected p0303
has this new coil gone bad already after a week?
New issue?
Plugs were replaced less than a year ago, wires were apparently replaced by previous owner about 2 years ago now. Crank sensor replaced less than a week ago...
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2000 Silverado 5.3So I recently replaced my head gaskets. And I think I'm finally done working on this truck when I took it for a long drive and it did a little sputter and then backfired. I thought it was nothing since after the backfire it went right back to running perfect. Then again another day it did it again. Sputter. A loss of power and the BANG backfire and it was back to running like new. At first it was very rare. Maybe once every other day. Now its doing it 2-3 times on a normal drive to work. And it will idle rough during one of these spells as well now. When it starts to sputter and lose power I can throw it in neutral and rev it a few times. Once it backfires it's back to running like new. Only codes I'm getting are o2 sensors but I have no cats. Just straight pipes from headers to a turn down exhaust. I was thinking maybe a fuel regulator but I had replaced that just a few months ago. Could it have already gone bad? I changed my fuel filter not long ago and cleaned injectors and rails when replaced head gasket.
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I recently found these codes. My car is APR 1+. The car seems to run fine so I'm not sure what is going on. I changed the plugs at ~60K miles and now have 72K miles.
Address 01: Engine (CRZ) Labels: 06F-907-115-CDL.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 907 115 M HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Revision: 5BH20--- Serial number:
Coding: 0403010A180F0160
[Code] ....
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I was driving the car normal with no problem. Got to a red light stop an as I was coming out of the red light the car started to hesitate a bit. So I start to drive home as I was driving home my check engine start to blink and then it stay on. When I got home and park the car I shut off ,then start it up again then the check engine light was off but the hesitation was still there. Then I got my computer and got the vagcom and got this code :
16684-random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0300-008- implausible signal
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Okay, so a few weeks ago, my tire blew out on the freeway. Of course my spare wasn't in there and when I got one I couldn't get the lugs loosened. My 4way was too big on all sides. It was late, I am a single mother of two young kids so I had no choice but to drive slowly to get it off the freeway. The next morning I came back fully prepared, got my car in to get a new tire. I have been driving with ONE code for my CEL, but at the shop (where I use to work) I used the scanner and it threw 5 codes.
P0300 Random misfire
P0442 Small EVAP leak detected (this one was already there)
P0420 Catalyst system below threshold bank 1
P0301 Misfire cyl 1
P0303 Misfire cyl 3
My beautiful love is an 02 Jetta 2.0 4 Cyl. Now, since 4 of these codes popped up AFTER my first blowout (I turn 30 next month, knock on wood)
Did driving my car at 5 mph about a mile and a half (everywhere up until the gas station was NO PARKING) do something to my car? All of a sudden, any in town driving ESP IDLING makes my check engine light blink and my car has no power I just have to pull over wherever I am. I checked the car out myself on the side of the road and my cat was glowing. After this I do not drive my car.
So, what should I do. I did a tune up. Should I replace the 02 sensors then the cat?
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I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t 6speed, I recently bought it from a person(my first VW ever) so just trying to fix some things on it, One thing that I'm stuck at is My CEL, it keeps flashing the code P0501 and some random misfire on my cylinders, I have reset it and they keep coming back.
when I put about 10-15% throttle it revs up fine, no misfire or hesitation until the fuel gets cut off around 5500, which is 1k below factory red line, does not hit a thing like the rev limiter where it pegs off the top multiple times just fuel cuts off.
If i put anything above the said pressure the car then begins to misfire and lots of hesitation and that's what causes those codes to go off.
I've been reading many things pointing towards the engine speed sensor or the wiring. Occasionally my fuel/temp gauge quit working but I believe that is a separate issue all together.
So really trying to narrow down what is actually causing my engine to hesitate at low rpm.
Also i might note when I'm in neutral I can go wide open throttle and the car revs fine until the cutoff and only does the bog down when it's under full load. It sorta feels like the possible misfire is due to bad air/fuel but really do not know.
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I have a 2000 3.0l ranger. I have been battling an ignition problem. every time the engine is cold it runs terrible like only 3 or 4 cylinders running terrible. if u put a timing light on the wires the pulse comes and goes on random wires. and when it quits that it has a random sputter at idle and misses around 4k when u get into the throttle ...
I have replaced plugs twice and the coil with motorcraft parts and the wires are new autolites. I have also replaced the thermostat and fan clutch it was getting hot in the middle of this other issue ...
Every time I replace something it runs great for a few days then back to running terrible again. am I missing something else do I need to look at a computer or map or tps sensors, or something like that ...
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So the Ex is starting to behave badly again in the morning! From time to time, when starting first thing in the AM cold the Ex will spit sputter and die all while puffing black smoke. Total time is under 3 seconds.
Start it again and it is fine. I have not had this issue before. There are absolutely no codes what so ever! And since it is such a short time sputtering nothing really shows up on the ScanGauge 2.....
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I have a 2002 Mazda Tribute V6 with 151K. My check engine light has come off and on for quite a while now, mostly it would come on when it rained and then go off when the weather cleared. When it was on, the engine would sputter or misfire. I first had Auto Zone hook it up and they said it needed its plugs and wires changed. No problem. I took it in to a repair place and was informed that I don't have plugs and wires, but something with coils and that since it was impossible to determine which coil was bad, all would have to be replaced at a cost of $1500. I then took it to another repair place and they said the same thing. Now I have seen some discussions regarding this same thing and apparently some people have been able to identify a specific coil. At this point my check engine light is now on all the time and I'm really worried about doing terrible damage.
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I have a 99 passat 1.8t AEB. I currently have the APR 91 Octane chip. However, I now have the "new and improved" EO5 turbo, ported polished head, port matched intake and exhaust manifolds, Forge diverter valve, Apr turbo inlet, K&N drop in filter, N75 valve, ECS lightweight crank pulley.
When first getting to full throttle the car seems to sputter b4 it takes off. The other day it registered a misfire briefly on the freeway. I have some Genesis 380cc injectors on the way but there has to be a software upgrade of some kind to run smoother!
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I have a 2004 santa fe with the 2.7L v6. I was driving and then it started to sputter and then stalled. I tried to restart, but the the engine would crank but no start. I came back to it about half hour later it started up as if there was no problem, and then after a 10 minute ride it stalled and did the same thing.I got it home and scanned it, came up with a couple misfire codes, a crank sensor code, and improper segment timing code ( I never heard of improper segment timing ). Also after fuel fill ups it never wants to start or stay running. I researched the fill up problem and found the purge canister valve to be bad. I haven't changed the purge valve yet, would that have anything to do with the stalling? If the crank sensor was bad, would it start later if it sat for a while. With my experiences when a crank sensor goes bad, the vehicle wont restart at all.
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2005 Echo auto 120,000 km
I have intermittent misfiring (a few seconds every couple minutes) and get the codes 301 and sometimes 304/300. I cant drive out of my driveway without a sputter and when I turn into a parking spot or make a quick stop the problem is magnified. I initially suspected a wiring / coil issue but here are my results:
Shuffled coil packs. (1/2 & 3/4)
Shuffled fuel injectors.
Good compression.
Swapped ECM.
Inspected wiring harness.
Goof EFI / cutoff relays.
None of these led to any change in the codes (300, 301, 304)
Yesterday I swapped the fuel pump and it worked flawlessly for an hour of city driving (first time in two months) ... then the issue returned as before.
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Random multiple cylinder misfire according to auto scanner report on a 2002 Passat 1.8L? I have recently changed all belts including the timing toothed belt. I have had this very same problem prior to changing all belts on this car. Mileage is 111,000 ....
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